Hot, polluted, unwalkable, and crowded, Mexicali (pop. 1.2 million) is not a tourist friendly town. Founded in 1903, the city was first populated by laborers from the Colorado River Land Company, many of whom were Chinese. Their vibrant culture continues to form a major part of Mexicali’s identity today, particularly in La Chinesca (Chinatown). Unfortunately, La Chinesca also shows Mexicali’s other face—that of a run-down border town grappling with crime, drugs, poverty, and prostitution. Mexicali has some intriguing sites, but at times its modern museums and beautiful parks only highlight the stark—and sometimes uncomfortable—contrast with its social problems.
To get to the Central de Autobuses (☎557 2415), take any bus headed south (away from the border) on López Mateos (every 10min., 7.50 pesos). Get off at the intersection with Independencia, two blocks beyond the Plaza de Toros on your right. Turn back to your right, almost as if to double back, and walk a block along Independencia; the station is on the left, before the footbridge. To get to the border from the bus station, cross the footbridge just outside the station and hop on a local “Centro” bus (every 10min. 5am-11pm, 7.50 pesos). Get off when the bus goes around the rotary and starts heading the other way on López Mateos; the border is five blocks farther along López Mateos.
Autotransportes de Baja California (ABC; ☎557 2440) sends buses to: Ensenada (4hr., 6 per day 6am-8pm, 301 pesos); Puerto Peñasco (5hr., 7 per day, 2am-8:30pm, 267 pesos); San Felipe (2hr., 5 per day 8am-8pm, 171 pesos); Tijuana (2hr., every hour, 260 pesos). Élite (☎557 2450) motors east to: Ciudad Juárez (16hr., 3 per day 12:20am-7:15pm, 752 pesos); Hermosillo (10hr., every hr., 375 pesos); Los Mochis (12hr., every 30min., 572 pesos); Nogales (10hr., 11pm, 360 pesos). Crucero (☎558 7995), a partner of Greyhound, can take you to Los Angeles, CA (4hr., 4 per day 5:30am-12:25pm, US$33) and Phoenix, AZ (5hr.; 10:40am, 8:40pm; US$44).
Mexicali stands on the US border 189km inland from Tijuana, just south of Calexico and California’s Imperial Valley. The city’s streets shouldn’t be difficult to navigate, but it’s easy to lose your bearings and end up walking in the wrong direction—get a map when you arrive in town. Driving across the border leads straight into the centro’s main boulevard, López Mateos. Mateos heads southeast through La Chinesca, past the enormous Plaza la Cachanilla mall, and the civic center. From there it continues past the Central de Autobuses and the ritzy clubs and restaurants of the Zona Hotelera before leaving town, where it becomes Mex. 2. You’ll find the city’s liveliest nightlife near the university district, home to the Universidad Autónoma de Baja California, east of La Chinesca. The Río Nuevo cuts through western Mexicali, spreading its unmistakable odor wherever it goes.
Some hotels in La Chinesca charge hundreds of pesos a night, and others charge by the hour. Brothels often front as hotels, so be discerning when choosing a place to sleep. Ask to see a room before you pay—it may not be worth your money.
Mexicali has more Chinese restaurants per capita than any other city in Mexico, and most of these restaurants are concentrated in La Chinesca. If Chinese cuisine isn’t your thing, chow down on hearty tortas de carne asada (15 pesos) at sandwich stands on Madero and Reforma, west of Mateos, or head to the food court in Plaza la Cachanilla, where huge combination plates cost less than 35 pesos.
Mexicali’s pollution means visitors to the city might not realize how spectacular its geographical setting is: the mountains to the west are only dimly visible thanks to the ever-present urban smog. Nevertheless, the tree-lined boulevards that run through the university district offer plenty of respite for the eye, and several places within the city limits provide escape from the fumes. Mexicali’s parks are among its most attractive features and, along with its extensive museums, testify to the city’s prosperity and pride.
Bosque Y Zoológico. The Bosque, an enormous park, houses a full zoo complete with lion, jaguars, and two roaring Bengal tigers. Flamingos, pheasants, and a red-tailed hawk live in the recently constructed open aviary nearby. A water park featuring multiple pools and slides, a mini-train (20 pesos) running through the park, and playgrounds galore make the Bosque any child’s dream. The park also contains the Museo de Historia Natural, which charts the history of life on Earth with a special focus on Baja and houses a complete whale skeleton. It was closed for renovations in summer 2007. (On Alvarado between San Marcos and Cárdenas, in southwestern Mexicali. Take a southbound black-and-white “Sta. Isabel” bus at the stop on Reforma, near Mateos. Get off at the Bosque’s entrance. By car, head south on Azueta over the Río Nuevo. The road becomes Uxmal south of the river; turn left on Independencia, then right on Victoria. ☎558 9080. Open M-F 10am-4pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm. 20 pesos, children 10 pesos. Water park 50 pesos extra.)
Sol De Niño. The Sol de Niño “science museum” has a giant slide, a climbing wall, huge bubble blowers, funny mirrors, and a skywalk with views of the city. Thankfully, the museum explains itself with a giant quote on the wall, attributed to Albert Einstein: “El juego es la forma mas elevada de investigación.” (Playing is the highest form of research.) A must for children and for those who want to act like them. ( The large building on Mateos, next to Parque Vicente Guerrero. ☎554 9595 or 553 8383. Open daily 10am-8pm. May be overrun with marauding schoolchildren during the week. 45 pesos, children 3-12 40 pesos. IMAX theatre 65 pesos.)
University Museum. The Universidad Autónoma de Baja California (UABC) runs a museum that traces the history of the northern half of the state. It includes a small display on the influx of American retirees and a much too small display on the impact that Chinese immigrants had on Mexicali. Still, some of the exhibits are superbly done. (On Reforma at Calle L. ☎552 5715 or 554 1977. Exhibits all in Spanish. Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm. 15 pesos.)
The huge Plaza de Toros Calafia (☎557 1417 or 3864), on Calafia near the corner of Independencia, hosts regularly scheduled bullfights and wrestling matches. (Tickets 100-400 pesos. Season Feb.-May and Sept.-Nov.) To get there, go to the centro stop at Mateos and Reforma and get on a blue-and-white “Centro Cívico” bus headed away from the border (10min., 7.50 pesos). Lienzo Charro del Cetys, at the corner of Cetys and Ordente, hosts rodeos in the winter and spring. Check with the tourist office for schedules.
Mexicali boasts two major theaters and a very active Casa de la Cultura, on Madero and Altamirano. Hundreds flock to this beautiful Neoclassical building to study sculpture, drawing, painting, theater, dance, and English. The Casa holds rotating displays of very impressive student art and presents plays, concerts, and dance shows. (☎552 9630. Open M-F 9am-5pm. Free.) UABC, the university, also presents cultural and theatrical performances in its theater and has artistic displays in the Galeria Universitaria and Sala de Arte on campus. (☎566 4276 for more info.) If you’re looking for a major play, symphony, or musical, visit Teatro del Estado, on Mateos at the northern end of Parque Vicente Guerrero. (☎554 6419. Box office open 11am-6pm on the day of the event. Tickets 200-400 pesos.)
La Chinesca is filled with night clubs that boom all night—and all day—but almost all are strip clubs. For a friendlier strip of clubs, head to the eastern part of town. Public buses stop running at 11pm, so you’ll have to either call it an early night or take a taxi (negotiable, around 50 pesos). Menealo!, Reforma 1085 (☎555 7144), between Calles B and C, features salsa and merengue dancing; try out one of their free lessons on Wednesday 8-10pm (W and F-Sa live orchestra. Open W-Th 8:30pm-3am, F-Sa 9pm-3am. Cash only.) Cafe Olé, Reforma 1150, between Calles C and D, is a hip bar that attracts a young crowd. (F-Sa live rock. Beer US$2. Open daily 6pm-2am. Cash only.)
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