Set between the desert, the sierra, and the Sea of Cortés, and far from Mex. 1, San Felipe’s (pop. 15,000) tranquil bay isn’t a place anyone just passes through. With its beautiful beach, gently teased by warm gulf waters, the town has an unhurried, untroubled quality which, along with its proximity to the US, has persuaded a growing number of US citizens to come here for good, taking as their unofficial slogan, “No bad days in San Felipe.” The tempo quickens on weekends, when more casual visitors drive into town and the bars and souvenir vendors go into overdrive.
The bus station is at the intersection of Mar Caribe and Mediterraneo. To walk downtown (15min.), turn left upon leaving the station, walk on Mar Caribe, and turn right on Manzanillo. Autotransportes de Baja California (☎577 1516) departs from San Felipe to Tijuana (5hr., 5 per day 6am-8pm, 362 pesos) via Mexicali (2hr., 188 pesos). All buses to Tijuana—except for the 8pm bus—continue on to Tecate (308 pesos). Buses also go to Ensenada (3hr.; 8am, 6pm; 248 pesos).
San Felipe is 190km south of Mexicali at the end of Mex. 5. About 43km north of San Felipe, this road connects with Mex. 3 from Ensenada, a route whose mountainous sections involve several sharp and poorly signed bends. Los Arcos (a tall, white double arch) marks the town entrance. Chetumal continues straight from the arch toward the sea and is one of the east-west streets named after a Mexican port city. Perpendicular to these are the north-south avenidas, including the beachfront malecón, and behind it Mar de Cortés, home to hotels, restaurants, and souvenir shops.
Budget options are limited in San Felipe. Lots of people camp on the main beach, although theft is common. For a bargain, try renting a room in a private home—look for signs that say “se rentan cuartos”—although it is sometimes hard to find the owner. Hotels fill up on weekends. Call ahead to make reservations.
Unsurprisingly, the real draw in San Felipe is the fresh seafood. As in other cities on the peninsula, the cheapest options are the taquerías on the malecón, which offer shrimp, fish, or carne asada tacos for 8-10 pesos, and the hot dog stands throughout town.
Beaches. Each year, more than 250,000 people come to San Felipe to swim in the warm, invitingly green waters of the Sea of Cortés. The main beach follows the malecón and changes dramatically with the tide—at high tide, the water can come to within feet of the walkway. It’s very popular with tourists and locals, especially on weekends. There’s no shortage of people riding banana boats, which are sometimes just floats being pulled by too-fast motorboats (20min., 40 pesos). South of town past the marina, away from the rumbling of boats and cars, clearer water and peaceful beaches provide a better setting for snorkeling or collecting seashells. You can rent ATVs from Motos Carrillo’s directly outside Campo San Felipe, although be aware that the roar of ATVs on the beach is always unwelcome. Check out the diagrams of the vehicles’ spare parts, with prices attached, before embarking. (☎577 2453. US$20-30 per hr. depending on size.) For breathtaking views of the town, the sparkling blue bay, and the surrounding hills, climb up to the Capilla de la Virgen de Guadalupe, on the hill overlooking the beach. (Walk across the narrow footbridge at the north end of the malecón and climb the stairs.)
Valle De Los Gigantes. This hidden valley at the foot of the Sierra San Pedro Mártir is home to the world’s largest stand of cardón cacti, one of which represented Mexico at the 1992 World’s Fair in Seville, Spain. That particular cactus was 17m tall, weighed 10 tons, and was more than 1,500 years old. In the valley, towering cardón (many nearly 15m tall), thorny orange-tipped ocotillo, bearded abuelo, and easily provoked jumping cholla cacti shelter a community of cows, roadrunners, jackrabbits, coyotes, and other desert-dwellers. Casey’s Place, on Mar y Sol two blocks south of Campo San Felipe in town, offers comfortable tours of the valley and other destinations in SUVs. (☎577 1431; www.sanfelipe.tv. 3hr. trips include food. Reserve in advance. US$55 per person. Open daily 8am-8pm.) Alternatively, you can drive to the valley on your own; although you will need a 4WD vehicle. (To reach the valley, drive up Chetumal away from the sea and turn left at the rotunda toward the airport. Where the airport road splits from the main highway, take the left fork toward Puertecitos along the water. At km 14, take the sign marked “Valle de los Gigantes.” After about 20km, take the small dirt road at km 14 on the right marked with a sign for “Sahuaro, Valle de Los Gigantes.” Passenger vehicles with partially deflated tires should be able to navigate the sandy terrain as far as the small palapa, where all cars without 4WD should park, though there is a small risk of getting stuck. Local ranchers charge visitors a small entrance fee of 50 pesos.)
San Felipe lures tourists with bars and clubs right on the malecón. Saturday nights are much more popular than Friday nights.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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