Tecate (pop. 100,000), on Mex. 2, between Mexicali and Tijuana, provides a peaceful respite from both of its neighbors. The green Parque Hidalgo is the center of life, where strolling families, vendors, tourists, and even the occasional clown collide. Nearby, a bakery turns out more Mexican pastries than perhaps any other store on the peninsula. Just a few blocks away, a quiet factory produces the town’s best-known product—Mexico’s unofficial national beer, Tecate. The streets are safe, prices are low, and the people are friendly. Tecate is the perfect place to sit back, relax, and—of course—grab a beer.
Catch buses one block east of the park on Juárez at Rodríguez. Autotransportes de Baja California (☎554 1221) sends buses to Ensenada (2hr., 10 per day 8am-7pm, 97 pesos), Tijuana (1hr., every 20min. 5am-9pm, 42 pesos), and Mexicali (2hr., every 30min. 8:30am-9:50pm, 132 pesos). Transportes Norte de Sonora (☎654 2343) offers de paso buses to: Ciudad Juárez (20hr., 5 per day 10:45am-7:30pm, 805 pesos); Chihuahua (4 per day 9:30am-7:45pm); Nogales (12hr., 4 per day 1:45pm-6:30pm, 930 pesos); Mexico City (44hr., 9 per day 10:45am-9:45pm, 1380 pesos). Buses heading to Mexico City stop in a number of cities along the way: Guadalajara (36hr., 958 pesos); Guaymas (14hr., 480 pesos); Hermosillo (12hr., 420 pesos); Mazatlán (26hr., 750 pesos); Mexicali (2hr., 120 pesos).
Tecate lies 42km east of Tijuana and 143km west of Mexicali on Mex. 2. The center of social and commercial activity, Parque Hidalgo, is bound to the north by the main street Juárez, which becomes Mex. 2. To the east, the Parque is bordered by Ortíz Rubio, which eventually turns into Mex. 3 on the southern edge of town. East-west streets parallel the border fence; from north to south, they are: Madero, Revolución, Reforma, Juárez, Libertad, and Hidalgo. Streets named for early 20th-century presidents run north-south perpendicular to Juárez and the border. Starting from the east, they are: Portes Gil, Rodríguez, Ortiz Rubio, Cárdenas, Elías Calles, Obregón, de la Huerta, Carranza, and Aldrete. The border crossing and customs are much simpler in Tecate than in either Tijuana or Mexicali, busy only Monday mornings and Friday afternoons. (Open daily 6am-midnight.)
Tecate has a number of budget hotels, but many are dilapidated. Take a look at a room before you agree to pay for it.
The cheapest food in Tecate can be found at the taquerías lining Obregón and Juárez, east of the park. The best is popular Tacos Los Amigos 2, at Hidalgo and Ortíz Rubio, where the big, 12-peso tacos are loaded with guacamole. (Open daily 9am-8pm.) Calimax, on Juárez between Carranza and Aldrete, sells groceries. (☎654 0039. Open daily 7am-10pm.)
The town’s biggest building, the Tecate Brewery, on Hidalgo at Obregón, looms over everything in Tecate and attracts thousands of beer-loving visitors throughout the year. Opened in 1944, the brewery, officially known as the Cervecería Cuauhtémoc Moctezuma, now pumps out 39 million liters of beer each month. You can sample one for yourself—on the house—at the Jardín Cerveza Tecate, where locals and tourists sit on plastic chairs in the shade. Should you become a convert to the local brew, the souvenir stall next to the bar will help you become a walking advertisement for Tecate or one of the company’s seven other beers: Bohemia, Carta Blanca, Dos Equis, Indio, Sol, Superior, and the Christmastime-only Noche Buena. You can also go on a free tour of the brewery. (No sandals allowed inside. } 654 9478. At Hidalgo and Oregon. Both open M-F 10am-5pm, Sa 10am-2pm. Tours M-F 11am, noon, 3, 4pm; Sa-Su 10, 11am, noon, 1pm. Free.)
Other than hanging out in the Jardín or strolling through the park, there isn’t much by way of entertainment in Tecate. Tecate’s béisbol (baseball) team, sponsored by the brewery and appropriately called the Cerveceros, attracts a small but devoted following whose enthusiasm might be connected to the fact that as the home score goes up, the price of beer in the stands goes down. (Tickets June-Aug. 30-60 pesos. For schedules, contact the tourist office or visit www.cervecerosdetecate.com.)
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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