Tijuana Overview

In the shadow of swollen, sulfur-spewing factories lies the most notorious specimen of border subculture: Tijuana (pop. 1.2 million). It’s hard to say if it’s the city’s strange charm, its cheap booze, or its sprawling, unapologetic hedonism that attracts 30 million visitors each year. At the time of the Mexican-American War, modest Rancho Tía Juana found itself on the new border between Alta California (US) and Baja California (Mexico). At first, the town grew slowly, but Prohibition gave Tijuana the opportunity to cater to the vices of its northern neighbors. Forbidden industries became deeply ingrained in “TJ.” In recent years, officials have made an effort to clean up the city. Sex shops and prostitution have left the centro, and Tijuana is now a slightly more family-oriented place. More common are the hollow boasts of debauchery on cheap T-shirts, the chance to have a photograph taken with a donkey painted to look like a zebra, and hats bearing lewd slogans. This is not to say that the city has lost its dirty sheen: catering to the US thirst for illicit substances is a fabulous source of wealth for some in Tijuana, one of the largest ports of entry for illegal drugs.

Intercity Transportation

• Flights: Gen. Abelardo L. Rodríguez (TIJ; ☎683 1060), east of the centro in Mesa de Otay. Serviced by: Aviacsa (☎006 2200; www.aviacsa.com); Aerocalifornia (☎685 5500); Mexicana (☎502 2000; www.mexicana.com); Aeroméxico (☎021 4000; www.aeromexico.com). To get to the airport, take the inexpensive “Aeropuerto” bus from Paseo de los Héroes across the street from the Centro Cultural (approx. 15min.). The easiest way to get to the centro from the airport is by taxi. Negotiate the hefty prices the taxi drivers will shout out at you, which often run US$15 and up. Your best bet is to avoid dealing with the taxi drivers directly and head to one of the many taxi booths.
• Buses: Tijuana has 3 main bus stations, all in different parts of the city, in addition to a separate Mexicoach station.
• • Downtown Station: The most convenient station, a block from Revolución on Calle Primera. Élite (☎688 1979) buses stop here 1hr. before embarking from the Central Camionera for Mexico City (46hr., every hr. 7am-8pm, 1128 pesos) via Hermosillo (12hr., 417 pesos) and Guadalajara (34hr., 981 pesos). Greyhound (☎688 1979) also picks up passengers downtown before leaving the Central for Los Angeles (3hr., every 2hr. 6am-4am, US$25), where buses connect to other North American cities. Suburbaja (☎688 0082) sends buses to Tecate (every 20min. 5am-9am, 42 pesos) and Rosarito (every 30min. 5am-9am, 14 pesos).
  • San Ysidro Terminal (☎621 2982), near the main border crossing and a short walk from the centro. Estrellas del Pacífico (☎683 2938) runs to: Guadalajara (32hr., 10 per day 8:30am-10pm, 899 pesos) via Hermosillo (12hr., 382 pesos); Mazatlán (26hr., 596 pesos); Mexicali (2hr., 150 pesos); Los Mochis (19hr., 530 pesos); Obregón (17hr., 501 pesos).
  • Central Camionera: The city’s largest terminal, near the airport. Autotransportes de Baja California (☎683 5681 or 104 7400) runs to: Ensenada (1hr., 12 per day 9am-11pm, 121 pesos); La Paz (22hr.; 8am, 9pm; 1399 pesos) via Loreto (17hr., 1147 pesos), San Ignacio (13hr., 805 pesos), and Santa Rosalía (15hr., 1147 pesos); Mexicali (3hr., 11 per day 7am-9pm, 180 pesos); Puerto Peñasco (8hr.; 11am, 5:30pm; 392 pesos); San Felipe (6hr., 3:30pm, 362 pesos). Station accessible only by overpriced taxi (about US$15, but negotiable) or by blue local bus (30min., 6.50 pesos). To find one of these buses, marked “Centro,” go out of the main exit of the terminal, turn left, and walk to the end of the building. Buses will let you off on Calle 3 and Constitución, 1 block west of Revolución; catch the station-bound bus 2 blocks away, at Calle 1 and Constitución. It also stops opposite the San Ysidro terminal near the border.
  • Mexicoach Station: 1025 Revolución, between Calles 6 and 7. Mexicoach (in Tijuana ☎685 1470, in San Diego 619-428-9517; www.mexicoach.com) buses depart for the San Ysidro border crossing (30min., every 30min. 5am-9pm, round-trip US$8). Rosarito beach shuttle also available (1hr., every 2hr. 9am-7pm, round-trip US$16). Colectivos to Rosarito 20 pesos.
• Car Rental: Budget, Paseo de los Héroes 77 (☎634 3303), next to the Hotel Camino Real. 24+. Open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 8am-4pm. Hertz (☎607 3950), at 9575 Paseo Centenario. 24+. Open M-F 7am-11pm and Sa 9am-2pm. Before driving into Mexico from the US, purchase car insurance for US$10-15 per day in San Ysidro. Prices fall with length of stay in Mexico. Many drive-through insurance companies have offices at Sycamore and Primero, just before the border.

Driving Directions:

• From Mexicali: By car, take Mex. 2 west out of Mexicali (209km, 2hr), get on cuota (toll) road Mex. 2D, and follow the “Aeropuerto” signs west. The airport road turns into Cuauhtémoc and crosses the river before running into Agua Caliente and eventually Revolución (2km).
• From Rosarito: By car, take Mex. 1 (27km, 30min.), arrive on 16 de Septiembre, head north until the intersection with Agua Caliente, and turn left to reach the centro. For the scenic 1D route, take Calle 2A, which continues east to Revolución.
• From San Diego: Grab a trolley on the blue line and ride to the border. (25min. from downtown.) From there, follow the instructions below for San Ysidro. By car, take US I-5 South or US 805 South (approx. 48km, 25min.). Both lead to the San Ysidro border crossing. “Centro” signs lead to Calle 2a.
• From San Ysidro: Follow the signs to the centro on foot; head for the tall arch at the top of Revolución (15min.). You can also take the red Mexicoach bus . If you can’t wait, take a taxi (US$3).

Local Transportation

Traveling within the city, traditional yellow cabs, which prey almost exclusively on tourists, charge absurd rates. Negotiate a price before getting in, or better yet, avoid them completely. White-and-red taxis libres are likely to offer slightly better prices and will go anywhere in the city. Much cheaper communal cabs, otherwise known as colectivos or route taxis, are popular with locals and go almost anywhere in the city for under 20 pesos. Operating as small buses, they run circuits of the routes painted above the rear tires and on the windshield, where you’ll also see the standard fares written out. Most originate on or around Madero or Constitución between Calles 1 and 5. They go to Rosarito (20 pesos, yellow-and-white, originate on Madero around Calle 3), El Toreo (10 pesos, red-and-black, originate on Calle 4 and Constitución), and the Zona Río (9 pesos, green-and-white, originate on Calle 3 between Constitución and Revolución), among other destinations. At night, it is best to travel by taxi in the centro.

Orientation And Practical Information

To the vast majority of visitors, Tijuana is simply Avenida Revolución. La Revo, as it is commonly known, forms the heart of the Zona Centro. Calles numbered from north to south cross La Revo, while avenidas (Constitución is nearest to the west, Madero to the east) run parallel to La Revo. At the intersection of La Revo and Calle Primera (1a), a prominent steel arch marks the northern border of the centro and the beginning of Zona Norte. Avoid the Zona Norte, notorious for drug-smuggling, prostitution, and border-running. It can be dangerous for tourists. Along the river east of the centro is the Zona Río, whose main street is Paseo de los Héroes. This zone is home to Tijuana’s popular local club, music, and cultural scene.

• Tourist Office: (☎685 2210). A small, freestanding booth at Revolución and Calle 3. English-speaking staff with good maps. Open daily 10am-4pm. Branch at the border crossing.
• Customs Office: (☎624 2280, www.aduanos.gob.mx), at the border on the Mexican side after crossing the San Ysidro bridge. Sells tourist permits . Open 24hr.
• Consulates: Canada, Gérman Gedovius 10400-101 (☎684 0461, after-hours emergencies 800 706 2900), in the Zona Río. Open M-F 9am-1pm. UK, Salinas 1500 (☎681 8402, after-hours emergencies 686 5320), on Col. Aviación at La Mesa. Open M-F 9am-2pm. US, Tapachula Sur 96 (☎622 7400 or 681 8016), in Col. Hipódromo, adjacent to the racetrack southeast of town. In an emergency, call the San Diego office (☎619-692-2154) and leave a message and a phone number; an officer will respond. Open M-F 8am-4pm.
• Banks: Banks along Constitución offer similar rates for exchanging currency or traveler’s checks. Banamex (☎688 0021), on Constitución at Calle 4. Open M-Sa 9am-4pm. Bancomer (☎638 4371), on Constitución at Calle 5. Open M-F 8:30am-4pm, Sa 10am-2pm. Both have 24hr. ATMs. Casas de cambio offer better rates but may charge commission or refuse to exchange traveler’s checks.
• Emergency: ☎066.
• Police: Constitución 1616 (☎685 6557, 24hr. tourist helpline ☎078), at Calle 8.
• Red Cross: (☎621 7787), on Gamboa at Silvestre, across from Price Club.
• Pharmacies: Throughout the Zona Centro. For 24hr. service go to Farmacia Internacional (☎685 2790), on the corner of Constitución and Calle 2.
• Hospital: Hospital General, Centenario 10851 (☎684 0237 or 0922), in the Zona Río.
• Fax Office: Telecomm (☎684 7902; fax 684 7750), on Negrete, to the right of the post office in the same building. Open M-F 7am-7pm, Sa 7am-3:30pm.
• Internet Access: Matrix Internet Place (☎688 2273), at Revolución and Calle 5. 16 pesos per hr. Open daily 10am-midnight. Cafe Internet (☎290 0508; www.cybertijuana.com), on Calle 5 between Madero and Revolución. 15 pesos per hr., or free with a drink order. Open daily 8am-10pm.
• Post Office: (☎684 7950), on Negrete at Calle 11 (Elías Calles). Open M-F 8am-5pm, Sa 9am-1pm. Postal Code: 22000.

Accommodations

As a general rule, hotels in Tijuana become less reputable the farther north you go. Avoid any in the Zona Norte. Though crowded during the day, even the Zona Centro can be unsettling at night, especially between Revolución and Constitución close to the Zona Norte. Take a taxi if you need to cross this area at night. Reserve ahead for weekends. Expect to pay in cash.

• Hotel Catalina, Madero 2039 (☎685 9748 or 688 1005), on the corner of Calle 5. Friendly staff greets visitors to this homey hotel. Singles are miniature, but other rooms are spacious. Singles 220 pesos; doubles 260 pesos, with TV 320 pesos. Cash only.
• Hotel Lafayette, Revolución 325, 2nd fl. (☎685 3940 or 3339), between Calles 3 and 4. Remarkably quiet for being in the middle of Revolución’s chaos, though you may still find that your bed throbs to the beat from Iguanas-Ranas across the road. Clean rooms with private bath, fan, phone, and TV. Free Wi-Fi. Singles 295 pesos; doubles 380 pesos. Cash only.
• Hotel Colonial, Calle 6 1812 (☎688 1720), between Constitución and Niños Héroes, in a quieter residential neighborhood away from Revolución. Airy rooms with big windows, A/C, and private bath. Singles and doubles 270 pesos. Cash only.
• Hotel Santa María (☎685 6160), on Madero between Calles 5 and 6. Offers decent lodging and clean, private bath for reasonable prices. Singles 200 pesos; doubles 320 pesos. Cash only.
• Hotel Perla de Occidente, Mutualismo 758 (☎685 1358), between Calles 1 and 2, 4 blocks from Revolución. Dark rooms with private bath and cozy bed around an indoor patio. Singles 150 pesos; doubles 300 pesos. Cash only.
• Hotel La Villa de Zaragoza, Madero 1120 (☎685 1832, www.hotellavilla.biz), between Calles 7 and 8. Spacious rooms with king-size bed, phone, and cable TV. Ask for the cheapest room available. Free parking with 24hr. security. Free Wi-Fi. Rooms from 438 pesos. AmEx/MC/V.

Food

Like most things in Tijuana, restaurants are often loud and in-your-face; promoters try to drag tourists into the pricey joints lining Revolución. Sometimes, however, paying a couple of extra pesos can reap delicious benefits. For cheap fast food, try the taco stands in the centro. Calimax is a supermarket on Calle 2 at Constitución. (☎633 7988. Open daily 6am-midnight.)

• Restaurant Chiki Jai (☎685 4955), on Revolución and Calle 7. This Spanish-style restaurant has provided dishes from across the Atlantic since 1947. Large portions of seafood paella (100 pesos). Tapas 30-60 pesos. Open daily 11am-9pm. Cash only.
• Los Panchos Taco Shop (☎685 7277), on Revolución at Calle 3. A handy pit stop for hungry clubbers. A large sign in the store says “Say no to drugs. Say yes to tacos.” Juicy burritos are filled generously with carne asada (13-17 pesos). Open M-Th and Su 8am-midnight, F-Sa 8am-4am. Cash only.
• Tortas Chapultepec (☎685 1412), at Constitución and Calle 6. This local favorite turns out tasty tortas and breakfasts (25-50 pesos). Open daily 8am-9:45pm.
• Restaurant Ricardo’s (☎685 3146), at Madero and Calle 7. Deservedly popular, this diner serves some of the best tortas in town (32-55 pesos). Try the super especial (ham and carne asada; 39 pesos). Open 24hr. MC/V.
• Tía Juana Tilly’s (☎685 6024; www.sdro.com/tillys), on Revolución and Calle 7. Uncommonly good Mexican combo plates US$7.50. Open M-F 9am-10pm, Sa-Su 9am-11pm. MC/V.
• Caesar’s Sports Bar and Grill (☎685 5608), on Revolución between Calles 4 and 5. In a moment of culinary genius, the Caesar salad was born in this smoky pub in 1924. You can still order the late-night favorite (66 pesos). Open daily 10am-8pm. MC/V.

Sights

While the most entertaining sights in town belong to La Revo, Tijuana’s parks and museums offer another side of local culture that is often overlooked. Pay them a visit and you’ll go home with a less impressive collection of straw hats but a more balanced sense of the city’s culture and heritage.

 Centro Cultural Tijuana (Cecut). With its beige sphere, CECUT is Tijuana’s most visually striking feature. The main attraction is the Museo de las Californias, where a collection of artifacts and models with bilingual descriptions and interactive terminals traces the history of the peninsula from its earliest inhabitants through the Spanish conquest, the Mexican-American War, and the 20th century. Tastefully presented exhibits make for a great introduction to the peninsula’s unique cultural heritage. CECUT also hosts temporary science and art exhibitions and showcases Tijuana’s cultural vitality with dance performances, concerts, and opera in the Sala de Espectáculos. The sphere hosts Cine Omnimax, where films are shown on a vast 180˚ screen every hr. in the afternoon. Occasional interpretive tours and live dance performances are held at the Jardín Caracol, a snail-shaped garden with reproductions of pre-Hispanic sculptures. (CECUT ☎687 9641; www.cecut.gob.mx. Museum open Tu-Su 10am-7pm. 20 pesos, students and children 12 pesos. Cine Omnimax tickets 44 pesos, students and children 25 pesos.)

Brewery And Vineyard. Since 2000, Cervecería Tijuana has been turning out fine European-style gold pilsner. Informative tours of the plant detail the brewing process and end with samples of the best Tijuanan beer. (Blvr. Fundadores 2951. ☎638 8662 or 2163; www.tjbeer.com. Schedule free tours by phone M-F 10am-noon. Free.) Family-run L.A. Cetto Winery, established by Italian immigrants in 1926, maintains vineyards in the Valle de Guadalupe, northeast of Ensenada. Brief tours of the beautiful California redwood bottling facility are available, but the real draw is the chance to sample and purchase the products at a fraction of their normal shelf prices. (Cañón Johnson 2108. ☎685 3031; www.cettowines.com. Tours every hr. M-F 10am-1:30pm and 4-6pm, Sa 1-4pm. Free. Wine tasting 80 pesos, includes 4 wines.)

Parque Estatal Morelos. This state-run park is close to the highway but offers walks, boat rides, an open-air theater, and a small zoo with lions, tiger, and ostriches. (Blvr. de los Insurgentes 16000. Take a green bus from Constitución and Calle 5, 6.50 pesos. ☎625 2469. Open Tu-Su 9am-5pm. Parking 10 pesos. Free.)

Other Sights. If you want to visit a museum in Tijuana without losing sight of La Revo’s tackiness, make a beeline for the Museo de Cera (wax museum). 86 life-size figures welcome you, organized into Mexican History, International Politics, Stage and Screen, and Horror. Memorable combinations (of which there are several) include President Vicente Fox and Fidel Castro towering over Mother Teresa and Mahatma Gandhi. (Calle 1 and Madero. ☎688 2478. Open daily 10am-6pm. 15 pesos.) Tijuana is not known for its architecture, but one building does catch the eye. The distinctive Jai Alai Palace on Revolución and Calle 7 was finished in 1947 after 21 years of construction, housing courts for the Basque ball game jai alai. Unfortunately, the sport has not been played there for years, and only the betting shop remains in use. The building, with a central hall that can seat 3000, now hosts concerts, dance performances, and boxing matches. The Catedral de Nuestra Se ñ ora de Guadalupe, at Calle 2 and Niños Héroes, is also an impressive structure. Finally, the Monumental Arch, built in 2000, is a must-see at Revolución and Calle 1.

Entertainment

Tijuana is home to two major bullrings. El Toreo de Tijuana, 221 Av. Santa Maria, the smaller of the two, is southeast of town just off Agua Caliente. El Toreo hosts the 1st round of fights (May-July alternate Su). Take a red-and-black taxi (10 pesos) from Calle 4 and Constitución to El Toreo. (☎686 1219; www.bullfights.org.) The seaside Plaza Monumental hosts the 2nd round (Aug.-Oct.). Mexicoach sends buses on fight days; alternatively, take the blue-and-white local buses from Calle 3 at Constitución. (☎680 1808; www.plazamonumental.com.)

Countless vendors await incoming tourists at the Mexican side of the footbridge from the US. The gaudy shopping scene continues most of the way up Revolución, as far as the intersection with Calle 7. Another spot to browse tourist-oriented wares is the Mercado de Artesanía, in the area bordered by Negrete, Ocampo, and Calles 1 and 2. There are also vendors on Plaza Santa Cecilia, near the arch on Revolución. Bargaining is a must, as quoted prices are usually well above reasonable.

To catch a flick, head to Cinepolis, in the Plaza del Río mall on Paseo de los Héroes, which screens Hollywood blockbusters and Mexican independent films. (☎684 1032. Open daily noon-midnight. Tickets 50 pesos.)

Nightlife

In the 1920s, the Prohibition ban on alcohol drove US citizens south of the border to revel in the forbidden nectars of cacti, grapes, and hops. The flow of Americans thirsty for booze remains unencumbered, and many take advantage of the low drinking age (18) to circumvent US prohibitions. The price tag, however, has gone up, and a night in TJ is costly, if not memorable. Stroll down Revolución after dusk and you’ll be bombarded by lights, music and club promoters hawking overpriced two-for-one margaritas. The chaotic mix of pop, reggae, hip hop, and Latin hits spun by DJs sets the tone for all of La Revo. Clubs catering to gays and lesbians cluster in Plaza Santa Cecilia between Calles 1 and 2, east of Revolución.

• Revolver Cine Cafe (☎685 1233; www.myspace.com/revolvercinecafe), on Madero between Calles 5 and 6, next to Hotel Catalina. Tijuana’s young, artsy crowd hangs out at the Revolver, a coffee shop by day that showcases underground movies and bands by night. Open M and Th-Su 10am-10pm, Tu-W 10am-midnight. Cash only.
• Sambuca, in the Plaza Fiesta Mall at Paseo de los Héroes and Independencia. Plays Brazilian-influenced dance music. It’s best to take a taxi to return to the centro. Open M-Th 7pm-2am, F-Sa 7pm-late. Cash only.
• Iguanas-Ranas (☎688 3885), on Revolución at Calle 3. A sublimely wacky world of life-size plaster clowns, balloons, and kitschy US pop-culture paraphernalia. Take the opportunity to pound beers (20 pesos) in an authentic yellow school bus high above Revolución. Open M-Th 10am-2am, F-Su 10am-5am. Cash only.
• Animale (www.clubanimale.com), on Revolución at Calle 4. The biggest, glitziest, and loudest hedonistic haven of them all. 2 drinks for US$7. Watch out—the similarly named Animale Continental next door is an altogether more “adult” experience. Open daily 10am-4am. Cash only.
• El Ranchero Bar (☎685 2800), in front of the fountain in Plaza Santa Cecilia. A popular spot with rainbow-colored parrots and palm trees decorating the long, dimly lit bar. A mellow crowd drinks US$1 beers. Open 10am-6am. Cash only.