Loreto (pop. 10,000), set between inhospitable, rugged mountains and the Sea of Cortés, is a tranquil town in a surprising spot. The city was once controlled by Jesuits, who landed on the peninsula in the late 17th century and established the first permanent mission in Baja Sur in 1697, and subsequently by Franciscans, who drove the Jesuits out in 1768. Loreto was the capital of Baja California Sur until the city was abandoned after a catastrophic hurricane in 1829. Today, the city revolves around the tourist trade with a beautifully landscaped historic town center that seems more popular with visitors than locals. The city is a good starting point to explore the Sea of Cortés.
Loreto is entirely walkable. There are three main streets: Hidalgo, Salvatierra, and Juárez. Salvatierra runs east-west from just off Mex. 1 to the malecón (boardwalk). A stretch of Salvatierra, linking the malecón to the small zócalo to the Misión de Nuestra Senora de Loreto, is open only to pedestrians and is beautifully landscaped. Juárez runs parallel to Salvatierra all the way to the highway. Hidalgo runs parallel to Salvatierra starting at the malecón but then converges with Salvatierra at an intersection known as Los Cuatro Altos.
Loreto caters to an affluent crowd. Still, there are a few relatively cheap hotels near the center and more near the bus station.
Most of the restaurants near the zócalo are pricey and geared entirely towards tourists. El Pescador supermarket, on Salvatierra and Independencia at the Los Cuatro Altos intersection, sells food and household products. (☎135 0060. Open daily 7:30am-10:30pm.)
Misión De Nuestra Señora De Loreto And Museum. Set in the middle of a pedestrian-only section of Salvatierra, this recently restored mission is an essential stop for anyone interested in Baja’s Jesuit history. As the plaque above the door proclaims, this is the mother of all California missions. The church was consecrated in 1697 by Italian-born Jesuit Father Juan María de Salvatierra, made permanent in 1699 and enlarged to its present size by 1752. It echoes the simple lines and plain walls of early Renaissance churches, with semicircular stone arches in perfect proportion to the height of the whitewashed nave. Next door, in the monastic complex, the Museo de las Misiones tells the story of Jesuit activity in Baja, although the descriptions are all in Spanish. (On Salvatierra and Misioneros. Open daily 7am-8pm. Mass M-Sa 7pm, Su 11am, 7pm. Museum ☎135 0441. Open Tu-Su 9am-1pm and 1:45-6pm. 34 pesos. Cash only.)
Loreto is a good base for snorkeling and diving in the Sea of Cortés. In town, the blissful sea views from Loreto’s boardwalk make it a popular place to take an evening stroll, or to take a pause on one of the many benches overlooking the waves. The public beach, at the southern end of the malecón, has fine gray sand and slightly murky water.
Nopoló. 7km south of town, has cleaner public beaches and excellent snorkeling, but is also the site of a somewhat unsuccessful resort development by FONATUR, the Mexican tourist promotion group responsible for Mazatlán. Vacant lots and preserved dunes contain an 18-hole golf course and well-lit tennis courts. To access Nopoló, drive through the massive Loreto Bay development and park in the Inn at Loreto Bay’s parking lot. Walk straight through the foyer and enjoy the clean waters immediately beyond.
Isla Coronado. Isla Coronado’s wide white beaches are more accessible than Isla del Carmen and host a herd of friendly sea lions who make excellent snorkeling buddies. Arturo’s Sports Fishing Fleet, half a block from the beach on Hidalgo, offers snorkeling and diving excursions to the island, as well as fishing trips. (☎135 0766. Snorkeling trip 5-6hr.; US$60, includes equipment and lunch. Diving trip 7hr.; US$115, including tanks. Open M-Sa 9am-1pm and 4-7pm. MC/V.) Cobadi, also on Hidalgo, below the Hotel Junípero, guides snorkeling trips for US$60 and diving trips for US$110 with equipment. (☎135 1146. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm. MC/V.) To learn more about the ecology of Loreto’s bay, a national marine park, pay a visit to the tiny natural history museum maintained by the Grupo Ecologista Antares, next to México Lindo y Qué Rico on Hidalgo, marked by the large whale signs on the sidewalk. (☎135 0086; www.geantares.org.mx. Open M-F 9am-4pm.) Active all over Baja California, GEA monitors the activities of fishermen and sailors in the bay. GEA runs some tours in the winter and can also put you in touch with local fishermen who provide ecotourism opportunities, including boat trips to observe the birds, whales, and dolphins that visit the bay and nearby islands. (5-6hr.; 5-person group approx. US$140.) Las Parras Tours, Madero 16, next to Cafe Olé, takes small groups on boat trips around Isla Coronado. The trip includes plenty of time to snorkel or relax on the beautiful beach. Las Parras also offers diving trips (-day trip US$80-90), mountain bike rentals (US$5 per hr.), kayak rentals (singles US$5 per hr., doubles US$7.50 per hr.), and trips to sights like the mission and village of San Javier. (☎135 1010; www.lasparrastours.com. Trips 4-5hr.; US$45 per person, 2-person min. Open M-Sa 9am-1pm and 4-8pm. MC/V.)
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