Reserva De La Biosfera El Vizcaíno Overview

Both Guerrero Negro and San Ignacio serve as gateways to the stunning Reserva de la Biosfera el Vizcaíno, the largest nature reserve in Latin America—about three times larger than Yellowstone National Park in the US. Boasting many of southern Baja’s most extraordinary natural and archaeological treasures, it encompasses the band of the peninsula from the 28th parallel down to the Sierra de San Francisco, and is bounded by the Tres Vírgenes volcanic area in the east and the entire Vizcaíno peninsula to the west. Adding the ocean on either side, the reserve totals more than 6.2 million acres. Within this sparsely populated region, officials are trying to save several endangered species and develop ecotourism as a business, but the reserve is not a park and facilities for tourists are limited. Most parts of the reserve are reachable from either Guerrero Negro to the north or San Ignacio to the south.

The best source of information on the reserva is its main tourist office (☎157 1777; vizcaino@conanp.gob.mx), on the corner of Caballo Felix and Ruiz Castinez in Guerrero Negro, five blocks into town from the water tank and two blocks to the right. The staff can offer advice on expeditions into the reserva, though tours are organized through one of the local tour companies. Malarrimo Eco-Tours, in Guerrero Negro on Zapata, on the right as you enter town adjacent to the hotel of the same name, leads a range of tours within the reserve. (}/fax 157 0100; www.malarrimo.com. Make reservations at least 1 day in advance. Open mid-Dec. to early Apr. M-Sa 7am-5pm, during the rest of the year M-Sa 7am-1pm.) In San Ignacio, the local tour co-operative Kuyima, on the zócalo, offers a similar selection of tours and has its own camping grounds at Laguna San Ignacio. (☎154 0070; www.kuyima.com. Open M-Sa 8am-1pm and 3-8pm.) If you have a particular interest in seeing something that is not covered by the regular tours, such as more remote mission sites or a particular bird, animal, or species of plant, contact the company one or two months in advance to discuss the organization of a specific trip. While some sights in the reserva can be visited in a day, others will take more time.

Outdoor Activities

Whale Watching. From mid-December to early April more than 50% of the world’s gray whale population is born in two lagoons: the Laguna Ojo de Liebre, 10km from Guerrero Negro, and the smaller Laguna de San Ignacio, near San Ignacio. In 2004, the last year in which a census was taken, more than 2000 gray whales visited Laguna Ojo de Liebre. Tourists in boats can look at—and even touch—the whales. Malarrimo and Kuyima, along with other operators, run popular whale watching trips for about US$45 per person. The whales are shy and sensitive, so private boats are prohibited during mating season. Trained local fishermen can give you a closer look. (You can also drive yourself to Laguna Ojo de Liebre. The road to the Laguna is 10km south on Mex. 1—watch for a sign with a whale on it. Follow the sandy bumps for 24km until you reach the Laguna’s visitor center.)

Desert Pronghorn Reserve. Sixty kilometers from the town of Vizcaíno, a dirt road peels off to the left toward Bahía Asunción. Another turn to the left about 4km later leads to the Campamento del Berrendo, a reserve for the berrendo (desert pronghorn), one of North America’s most endangered species. These remarkable creatures survive the region’s intense heat without drinking water, ingesting moisture from the plants in their diet instead. Moving at speeds up to 100km per hr., they are the fastest animals on the continent and the second fastest animals in the world. Even their tremendous speed, however, has not afforded them protection from hunters, and their territory is shrinking as unfenced cattle run rampant. The Mexican government established the conservation camp in the reserva in 1988 and outlawed hunting, in an attempt to save the species, of which there are only an estimated 150 animals living in the wild. Just over 100 pronghorns are kept in large fenced corrals, and a total of about 260 live in the camp. The staff is happy to let visitors have close-up peeks at the animals. (Ask at the reserve’s main office in Guerrero Negro before making a visit. Visits are restricted Jan.-March, when the pronghorns give birth.)

Bahía Asunción Sea Lion Colony. Past the Desert Pronghorn Reserve, the bumpy road eventually reaches the coast at Bahía Asunción, an isolated fishing community occasionally visited by American sport fishermen. The village looks out onto a small group of offshore islands, which are home to a large and noisy colony of sea lions. Manuel Arce, who lives near the fishing cooperative building at the far side of the bay, is one of a number of locals who will take enthusiasts out on his boat to watch the sea lions swimming, fighting, playing, and basking in the sun. The Biosphere staff in Guerrero Negro can help you organize a visit as well.

Tres Vírgenes Volcano And Big-Horn Sheep. Standing at 1840m, the Tres Vírgenes volcano, dominates the area of the Biosfera el Vizcaíno east of San Ignacio. Hikers who complete the two-day trek to the summit are rewarded with a view of the Sea of Cortés to one side and the Pacific to the other. The best source of guidance for this trip is the reserva’s Campamento Borrego Cimarrón, which is managed by a local ejido (a family that holds land communally). To get there, take Mex. 1, southeast of San Ignacio. At km 32 take a left at the turn-off marked “Campo Geotermaleléctrico las 3 Vírgenes.” After about 1km, a short, steep dirt road appears on the left, which will lead you up to the camp. The camp also serves as the base for efforts to protect the borrego (big-horn) sheep, about 500 of which live near the volcano. Though the species is endangered, limited hunting is allowed each year. In 2006 park officials determined that six of the animals could be killed and American big game hunters paid US$60,000 for the privilege. Those wishing to enjoy a more peaceful, less pricey experience can take one of the day-long trips led by the friendly rangers at the camp to observe these rare animals. The base also has small cabañas and camping spaces for people who wish to explore the area further.