Santa Rosalía Overview

Unlike its neighbors, Santa Rosalía (pop.10,500) owes its existence not to the Sea of Cortés but the mountains that frame it. After rich copper deposits were discovered nearby, Mexico’s dictator Porfirio Díaz gave the land around Santa Rosalía to French investors, who in 1885 established a company called “El Boleo,” to mine the land. They built a town, Santa Rosalía, to house their workers and filled it with French colonial-style buildings, including a church designed by Gustave Eiffel, of Eiffel Tower fame. The French company moved out in 1954 and a Mexican firm took over. The mines finally closed in 1986, and almost all of the French-style buildings still stand.

Transportation. The bus station (☎152 1408), in the same building as the ferry office right off Mex. 1, sends buses north to: Mexicali (18hr., 4 per day 4am-3:40pm, 1047 pesos); Tijuana (15hr., 3 per day 2:30am-5pm, 944 pesos); and Guerrero Negro (3hr., 220 pesos). Heading south, buses go to La Paz (8hr., 6 per day 5:40am-12:15am, 566 pesos) via Mulegé (1hr., 93 pesos) and Loreto (3hr., 203 pesos). Buses also head to San José del Cabo (9hr., 3 per day, 700 pesos).

Baja Ferries, on Mex. 1 just south of downtown, sends ferries to Guaymas. (☎152 1246; www.ferrysantarosalia.com. 10-11hr.; Tu-W 9am, F and Su 8pm; 650 pesos, round-trip 1080 pesos, children 1-11 540 pesos. Terminal open daily 8am-3pm and 4-7pm.) Due to high demand, tickets should be purchased in advance; during the summer, a day may suffice. Those traveling with cars must purchase tickets further in advance (standard passenger car 2480 pesos) and show a tourist card, registration, and a vehicle permit (available at the border and in La Paz, but not in Santa Rosalía). To get to the centro from the ferry or bus station, turn right and walk along the main road until the turn-off to Santa Rosalía.

Orientation And Practical Information. Santa Rosalía lies 555km north of La Paz. Most services in Santa Rosalía are on the two main streets, Obregón and Constitución, which run east-west. Crossing these, named and numbered streets run north-south. Mesa Francia lies up the hill via Altamirano, which runs parallel to and north of Obregón before it starts winding its way to the top; pedestrians can also get there by ascending the steps nearby.

Banamex, on Obregón and Calle 5, exchanges traveler’s checks and has a 24hr. ATM. (☎152 0984. Open M-F 9am-4pm.) Bancomer, across the street, offers similar services. (Open M-F 8:30am-4pm.) Other services include: emergency ☎065; police, at Carranza on the plaza (☎152 0651); Red Cross, on Calle 2 and Carranza adjacent to the police outpost (☎152 0640); General Hospital, at Costeau opposite the museum in Mesa Francia (☎152 0789 or 1336); fax office at Telecomm, on Constitución across from the post office (☎152 2112; fax 152 0240; open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 8am-11:30am); Internet Vision, on Obregón next to Bancomer (20 pesos per hr.; open daily 10am-10pm); and the post office, on Constitución between Calle 2 and Altamirano (☎152 0344; open M-F 8am-4pm). Postal Code: 23920.

Accommodations And Food. Santa Rosalía does not have many good accommodations. Most travelers would be better off stopping here for a few hours and then heading west to San Ignacio or south to Mulegé for the night. Hotel Olvera 3, Calle Plaza 14, three blocks from shore on Constitución off the foot bridge, has seen better days but is centrally located. (☎152 2550. Singles 200 pesos, with A/C 250 pesos; doubles 250/350 pesos. Cash only.) Those traveling by car can take advantage of the parking at Motel San Victor 2, Progreso 36, on Calle 9. Bring your own sleeping bag and pillows because the linens here need a good scrub. (☎152 0116. Doubles 150 pesos. Cash only.) Hotel Francés 5, at the far end of Costeau on the Mesa Francia, is worth a visit just to peak in at the grand foyer where the Boleo company once accommodated the unmarried members of its French staff. (☎152 2052. Wi-Fi available. Rooms with A/C and TV 650 pesos.) Nuevo Mundo Hotel 5 on Obregón at Calle 2 rents out two rooms with A/C and TV. (☎152 0244. Rooms 300 pesos. Cash only.)

With the exception of its oddly loaf-shaped baguettes, El Boleo Bakery 1, on Obregón at Calle 4, offers a typical selection of Mexican pastries. (☎152 0310. Pastries from 4 pesos. Open M-F 9am-9:30pm, Su 9am-1pm. Cash only.) Restaurant Don Pedro 3, at Calle 5 and Progreso, serves a large selection of eggs for breakfast (35-40 pesos) and typical Mexican fare the rest of the day. (Open daily 7am-midnight.) The air-conditioned Terco’s Pollito 4, at Obregón and Playa, dishes up heartier meals. Try the half roast chicken for 55 pesos. (☎152 0075. Open daily 8am-10pm. Cash only.) Homesick expats can try El Muelle 4, on Constitución at the plaza, where the walls are covered in American memorabilia. The spaghetti bolognese (40 pesos) is filling, but the pizza (medium pepperoni 92 pesos) is overpriced. (☎152 0931. Open daily 8am-11pm.) Ángel Cafe 3, on Calle 5 and Obregón opposite Bancomer, has good breakfasts (omelettes 40 pesos) and well-priced entrees. (☎152 1292. Open daily 9am-6pm. Cash only.) There is a Mini-Super on Obregón and Calle Playa. (☎152 2851. Open daily 8am-11pm.)

Sights. Santa Rosalía’s principal attractions are the French colonial-style buildings, constructed between 1885 and 1954 while the French-owned El Boleo Company operated the nearby copper mines. The town is divided into two parts: the small Mesa Francia (where French officers lived) and Mesa Mexico. In just a couple of hours, you can take in most of the major buildings here. A good place to start is the Mesa Francia at the Hotel Francés on Cousteau, where some of El Boleo’s workers used to live. Walk down Cousteau, which is littered with the company’s now-dilapidated railroad cars and lined with French colonial homes, to the company’s former offices, now the Museo Histórico Minero de Santa Rosalía. In the distance, you can see El Boleo’s rusting copper foundry. The museum includes photos of the company’s mining operations, a number of old desks, and other miscellaneous company equipment. (☎152 2929. Open M-F 8am-3pm, Sa 9am-1pm. Free.) Next, walk down the hill to the Iglesia Santa Barbara, at Obregón and Altamirano, designed by Gustave Eiffel. According to a plaque outside the church, the church was shown in Paris, along with the Eiffel tower, at the 1889 World’s Fair. The El Boleo Company purchased the church and brought it to Santa Rosalía on the company’s sailboat in 1895.