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Newcastle Overview

Newcastle, originally reserved for Oz’s most troublesome convicts, is now a growing city. As the world’s largest coal exporter, Newcastle ships out over one and a half million tons each week. However, the city is no longer the smog-choked industrial metropolis it was once reputed to be. High-adrenaline surfing, spectacular Pacific views, and proximity to the nearby Hunter Valley wineries and wetland reserves put Newcastle in sync with its vibrant, international student crowd and flourishing live music scene.

  • Trains: Newcastle Railway Station (☎13 15 00), corner of Scott and Watt St. CityRail trains to Sydney (2hr., at least 1 per hr. 2:45am-9:20pm). The main transfer station for CountryLink (☎13 22 32) is Broadmeadow, a 5min. train ride on CityRail.
  • Buses: The bus depot abuts the wharf side of the railway station. Several bus lines including Greyhound Australia (☎13 14 99 or 13 20 30; www.greyhound.com.au) run to: Brisbane (14hr., 3 per day, $101); Byron Bay (11hr., 2 per day, $94); Coffs Harbour (8hr., 3 per day, $70); Port Macquarie (4hr., 3 per day, $57); Surfers Paradise (12½hr., 3 per day, $101); Sydney (2½hr., at least 3 per day, $44); Taree (3½hr., 1-2 per day, $37). Rover Coaches (☎02 4990 1699; www.rovercoaches.com.au) goes to Cessnock, a gateway for the Hunter Valley vineyards (1hr.; M-Sa 2-5 per day; $12). Port Stephens Coaches (☎02 4982 2940; www.pscoaches.com.au) shuttles to Port Stephens (1hr.; M-F 11 per day, Sa-Su 5 per day; up to $12, backpackers and students $6). Purchase tickets ahead from a Newcastle travel agency, online, or on the bus.
  • Ferries: Passenger ferries (☎13 15 00) depart from the wharf near the train station and cross the river north to Stockton. Ferries leave every 30min. M-Sa 5:15am-11:45pm, Su and holidays 8:30am-11:30pm. Tickets $2.10 one-way. Purchase onboard.
  • Public Transportation: City buses (☎13 15 00; www.131500.com) run along Hunter St. every few minutes during the day, less frequently at night, some as late as 3:30am. Tickets allow travel within a certain time limit and are for sale onboard (1hr. $3, 4hr. $6, all day $9). Routes within the CBD are free; just wave down a bus. Check at the tourist office for more information and a map.
  • Taxis: Newcastle Taxis (☎13 33 00).
  • Car Rental: All have locations in the city and at the airport: Europcar, 66 Hannell St., Wickham (☎02 4940 0364; www.europcar.com.au); Thrifty, 272 Pacific Highway, Charlestown (☎02 4942 2266 www.thrifty.com.au); Budget, 107 Tudor St., Hamilton (☎02 4927 6375; www.budget.com.au); Avis, 33 Maitland Rd, Mayfield (☎02 4940 2955; www.avis.com.au). Check websites for online specials.

Orientation

Hunter Street, at the heart of the city, is Newcastle’s commercial district and runs parallel to the wharf. On the eastern end of the main drag and atop a peninsular hill lies Fort Scratchley and a number of hostels and seaside bars, as well as the emerald-green Foreshore Park. Darby Street plays host to most of Newcastle’s hipper happenings. For another dose of chic, take a significant trek farther west and reach Beaumont Street in Hamilton; or, take one of the free CBD buses that regularly runs there. From Newcastle, the New England Hwy. heads west toward the Hunter Valley wineries.

Practical Information

  • Tourist Office: 361 Hunter St. (☎02 4974 2999 or 1800 654 558; www.visitnewcastle.com.au). From rail station, take a right on Scott St. and continue as it merges with Hunter St. Office is on left, just a block past Darby St. Free maps of Newcastle and Macquarie; accommodation and tour bookings. Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-3pm.
  • Library: (☎02 4974 5342), in the Newcastle War Memorial Cultural Centre on Laman St., next to the art gallery. Free Internet. Open M-F 9:30am-8pm, Sa 9:30am-2pm.
  • Surf Shop: Pacific Dreams, 7 Darby St. (☎02 4926 3355; www.pacificdreams.com.au). Rents short boards $50 per day; long $60. Open M-W 9am-5:30pm, Th 9am-7pm, F 9am-5:30pm, Sa 9am-4pm, Su 10am-3pm. Credit card deposit required. V/MC/AmEx.
  • Police: (☎02 4929 0999), corner of Church and Watt St.
  • Post Office: (☎13 13 18), corner of Scott and Market St. Open M-F 8:30am-5pm. Postal Code: 2300.

Accommodations

With tourism on the rise, budget accommodations have become few and far between in Newcastle. Pub rooms abound (around $60), but the listings below are better bets. Book ahead in the high season.

  • Newcastle Beach (YHA), 30 Pacific St. (☎02 4925 3544). Around the corner from the beach and train station. Breezy building with a retro flavor. Spacious rooms and common area reminiscent of a country club with TV, pool table, fireplace, and kitchen. Free dinner at Finnegan’s for YHA M-Tu and Su and at the Brewery Th. Internet $2 per 30min. Winery tour $50. Laundry $6. Free boogie boards. Reception 7am-10:30pm. Book ahead in summer. Dorms $30, YHA $27; doubles $65/73. AmEx/MC/V.
  • Backpackers by the Beach (NOMADS), 34-36 Hunter St. (☎1800 008 972; www.backpackersbythebeach.com.au). 4min. walk north of train station, this hostel is on the corner of Hunter and Pacific St. Small rooms feel bigger than they are due to bright lights and high ceilings. Single-sex dorms. Surfboard rentals $8 per hr., bodyboards $2 per hr., bikes $3 per hr., snorkels $2 per hr. Th free BBQ. Internet $4 per hr. Key deposit $15. Reception 7am-11pm. Book ahead for weekends. Dorms $28, NOMADS $26; 2+ days $26/24; doubles $64/60. ISIC/NOMADS/YHA. AmEx/MC/V.

Food

Darby St. is the best place in town to hunt for eateries. Hunter St. has $7-8 lunch specials, but stick to the Pacific St. end if you want atmosphere. Though it’s a 25-30min. walk southwest of the city center, Hamilton’s less trendy Beaumont St. is lined with over 80 restaurants. Food-court options can also be found at Market Sq., in the center of a pedestrian mall on Hunter St., running from Newcomen to Perkins St. The huge 24hr. Coles supermarket (☎02 4926 4494) is in the Marketown shopping center at the corner of National Park and King St.

  • Goldberg’s Coffee House, 137-139 Darby St. (☎02 4929 3122). Many meet here early in the evening for dinner or drinks before heading out for the night. Dark hardwood interior with a classy soundtrack and garden patio out back. Swing by for a late cup of coffee ($4) or a glass of wine ($6). Varied and reasonably priced menu; lunch and dinner dishes $7-20. Open daily 7am-midnight. AmEx/D/MC/V.
  • The Queen’s Wharf Brewery, 150 Wharf Rd. (☎02 4929 6333; www.qwb.com.au). Fine dining and hops at this popular wharf-side restaurant and multi-level bar. Attracting steak and seafood lovers for meals ($15-30) and a mixed crowd for evening drinks, there’s something for everyone to enjoy here. Live entertainment and daily menu specials. Su live music starting at 1pm. Open M and Tu 10:30am-10pm, W 10:30am-1pm, Th 10:30am-noon, Sa 10:30am-2:30pm, Su 10:30am-midnight. AmEx/D/MC/V.
  • Darby Raj, 115 Darby St. (☎02 4926 2443). With delicious North Indian curries to devour at one of the tables outside, Darby Raj is a choice budget eatery. Choose 1-3 curries on rice for $10, or for a light lunch grab a couple of samosas ($2.20 each) and cool your palate with a lassi ($2.50). Vegetarian-friendly. Takeaway available. Open M 4-10pm, Tu-W and Su 11am-10pm, Th-Sa 11am-10:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.
  • Harry’s Cafe de Wheels (☎02 4926 2165), on Wharf Rd. on the waterfront. What better place to sample a famous Australian meat pie than the longest-running takeaway joint in the nation? The “Tiger” is a hearty pie smothered in peas, mashed potatoes, and steaming gravy ($5.40). Open M-Tu 8:30am-9pm, W 8:30am-2pm, Th 8:30am-midnight, F 8:30am-3:30am, Sa 10am-4am, Su 10am-11pm. Cash only.

Sights And Activities

Though the ornate heritage buildings and the towering cathedral of the CBD are impressive, visitors come to enjoy the laid-back coastal lifestyle. Newcastle’s a place to chill, with plenty of oceanfront parks, good surf, and the ever-present sound of crashing waves.

Beaches. Newcastle’s shore is lined with beaches, tidal pools, and landscaped parks. At the tip of Nobby’s Head peninsula is a walkable seawall and Nobby’s Lighthouse, in the middle of Nobby’s Beach, a popular surfing spot. A walk down the coastline from Nobby’s leads to a surf pavilion, then to the Ocean Baths, a public saltwater pool. Keep walking to find Bogey Hole, a convict-built ocean bath at the edge of the manicured King Edward Park. Farther along, you’ll see the large Bar Beach, terrific for surfing. To tackle all the beaches, follow the Bather’s Ways coastal walk from Nobby’s at the peninsular tip to Merewether.

  • Flags. If your local beach is flashing flags, this means it’s being patrolled. In Newcastle, these flags are often red and yellow.

Newcastle Region Art Gallery. On a rainy day, stroll through this small museum’s collection of contemporary paintings and multimedia presentations. (Corner of Laman and Darby St. ☎02 4974 5100. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. Free.)

Fort Scratchley. Famous as the only Australian fortification to return fire on the Japanese during WWII, Fort Scratchley had fallen into disrepair as a graffiti-scarred eyesore. Recently restored for the public, it now commands stunning views of the harbor. A fun-to-explore network of underground tunnels also runs below the fort. (☎02 4929 3066; www.fortscratchley.org.au. Open M and W-Su 10am-4pm. Free general admission. Guided tunnel tours around $5.)

Blackbutt Reserve. A 182-hectare tree sanctuary with over 20km of walking trails and many animals along the way. Bring your own picnic to Black Duck Picnic Area where there’s BBQ equipment, a jungle gym, a pioneer cottage that replicates the domestic life of 19th-century Newcastle settlers, a koala enclosure, and kangaroo, peacock, and emu reserves. If you’re lucky, you can even pet a koala daily at 2pm for $3. (Take bus #317, 224 or 225 from the city center for 30min. to the corner of Carnley Ave. and Orchardtown Rd. Walk up Carnley Ave. to the entrance on the right. By car, turn left on Stewart Ave., the Pacific Hwy., from Hunter St. After about 20min., hang a right on Northcott, and at the roundabout turn right on Carnley Ave. ☎02 4904 3344; www.ncc.nsw.gov.au. Open daily in summer 7am-5pm; wildlife exhibits 9am-5pm. Free.)

Hunter Wetlands Centre. Founded in 1985 to provide sanctuary to birds and reptiles, these rehabilitated wetlands also offer respite to city-weary humans with walking paths and a creek for canoeing. Swans, egrets, ibis, blue herons, and parrots are just a few of the feathered fliers who call this place home. Monthly events include breakfast with the birds, twilight treks, and canoe safaris. Check website in advance for details. (Take CityRail to Sandgate, in the suburb of Shortland, and then walk 10min. on Sandgate Rd. By car, take the Pacific Hwy. to Sandgate Rd. ☎02 4951 6466; www.wetlands.org.au. Canoe rental: 2hr. 2-person $10; 3-person $15. Open M-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-5pm. $6, children $3, concessions $4, families $15.)

Festivals.Surfest (www.surfest.com) , Australia’s largest surfing festival, rides into town in late March for a week-long international surfing extravaganza. The Newcastle Jazz Festival (☎02 4973 2160; www.newcastlejazz.com.au) plays out in late August at City Hall. Newcastle Maritime Festival’s (☎04 1227 5707 ) boat races and water sports are in October. Mattara spring festival (☎02 4962 5648; www.mattarafestival.org.au) celebrates cultural diversity in early October. The This is Not Art Festival (☎02 4927 0470; www.thisisnotart.org.au) brings together Newcastle’s young musicians, artists, writers, media-makers, and troublemakers for five days of creative energy at the end of September and early October.

Entertainment And Nightlife

City Hall recently enforced a new 3am curfew, officially intended to curb street violence, but some locals grumble that there was never really a crime problem. Regardless, Newcastle is fast becoming one of Australia’s major musical hubs. The Post, a free newspaper, publishes a weekly That’s Entertainment guide to live music around the area; pick up a copy at the tourist office. Wednesday night is “Uni Night” all around town; keep your eyes open for special events and offers, as well as late closing times.

  • Fanny’s, 311 Wharf Rd. (☎02 4929 5333; www.fannys.com.au). A happening dance club that caters to the R&B and techno crowds. Voted RALPH magazine’s “easiest place to pick up in Australia.” Probably should still hold the title. Drinks $6-10. 18+. Open W and F-Sa 8pm-3am. $10 regular cover. W Uni Nights: $5, students free.
  • The Queen’s Wharf Brewery (see Food, ). At night, the 2nd floor becomes a DJ-driven dance frenzy, while the lower level offers relaxed conversation. Live music Th 9:30pm; F live music 5pm, DJ 9:30pm; Sa live music 3pm, DJ 9:30pm.
  • Sydney Junction Hotel, 8 Beaumont St. (☎02 4961 2537; www.sjh.com.au), is a slick establishment with a packed line-up; it’s an all-in-one cocktail lounge, dance club, and sports bar. Rock bands Th-Su. F and Sa live music in back room and DJ up front. W karaoke night. Free pool all day Su. Open daily 7am-late. AmEx/D/MC/V.



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