Newcastle, originally reserved for Oz’s most troublesome convicts, is now a growing city. As the world’s largest coal exporter, Newcastle ships out over one and a half million tons each week. However, the city is no longer the smog-choked industrial metropolis it was once reputed to be. High-adrenaline surfing, spectacular Pacific views, and proximity to the nearby Hunter Valley wineries and wetland reserves put Newcastle in sync with its vibrant, international student crowd and flourishing live music scene.
Hunter Street, at the heart of the city, is Newcastle’s commercial district and runs parallel to the wharf. On the eastern end of the main drag and atop a peninsular hill lies Fort Scratchley and a number of hostels and seaside bars, as well as the emerald-green Foreshore Park. Darby Street plays host to most of Newcastle’s hipper happenings. For another dose of chic, take a significant trek farther west and reach Beaumont Street in Hamilton; or, take one of the free CBD buses that regularly runs there. From Newcastle, the New England Hwy. heads west toward the Hunter Valley wineries.
With tourism on the rise, budget accommodations have become few and far between in Newcastle. Pub rooms abound (around $60), but the listings below are better bets. Book ahead in the high season.
Darby St. is the best place in town to hunt for eateries. Hunter St. has $7-8 lunch specials, but stick to the Pacific St. end if you want atmosphere. Though it’s a 25-30min. walk southwest of the city center, Hamilton’s less trendy Beaumont St. is lined with over 80 restaurants. Food-court options can also be found at Market Sq., in the center of a pedestrian mall on Hunter St., running from Newcomen to Perkins St. The huge 24hr. Coles supermarket (☎02 4926 4494) is in the Marketown shopping center at the corner of National Park and King St.
Though the ornate heritage buildings and the towering cathedral of the CBD are impressive, visitors come to enjoy the laid-back coastal lifestyle. Newcastle’s a place to chill, with plenty of oceanfront parks, good surf, and the ever-present sound of crashing waves.
Beaches. Newcastle’s shore is lined with beaches, tidal pools, and landscaped parks. At the tip of Nobby’s Head peninsula is a walkable seawall and Nobby’s Lighthouse, in the middle of Nobby’s Beach, a popular surfing spot. A walk down the coastline from Nobby’s leads to a surf pavilion, then to the Ocean Baths, a public saltwater pool. Keep walking to find Bogey Hole, a convict-built ocean bath at the edge of the manicured King Edward Park. Farther along, you’ll see the large Bar Beach, terrific for surfing. To tackle all the beaches, follow the Bather’s Ways coastal walk from Nobby’s at the peninsular tip to Merewether.
Newcastle Region Art Gallery. On a rainy day, stroll through this small museum’s collection of contemporary paintings and multimedia presentations. (Corner of Laman and Darby St. ☎02 4974 5100. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm. Free.)
Fort Scratchley. Famous as the only Australian fortification to return fire on the Japanese during WWII, Fort Scratchley had fallen into disrepair as a graffiti-scarred eyesore. Recently restored for the public, it now commands stunning views of the harbor. A fun-to-explore network of underground tunnels also runs below the fort. (☎02 4929 3066; www.fortscratchley.org.au. Open M and W-Su 10am-4pm. Free general admission. Guided tunnel tours around $5.)
Blackbutt Reserve. A 182-hectare tree sanctuary with over 20km of walking trails and many animals along the way. Bring your own picnic to Black Duck Picnic Area where there’s BBQ equipment, a jungle gym, a pioneer cottage that replicates the domestic life of 19th-century Newcastle settlers, a koala enclosure, and kangaroo, peacock, and emu reserves. If you’re lucky, you can even pet a koala daily at 2pm for $3. (Take bus #317, 224 or 225 from the city center for 30min. to the corner of Carnley Ave. and Orchardtown Rd. Walk up Carnley Ave. to the entrance on the right. By car, turn left on Stewart Ave., the Pacific Hwy., from Hunter St. After about 20min., hang a right on Northcott, and at the roundabout turn right on Carnley Ave. ☎02 4904 3344; www.ncc.nsw.gov.au. Open daily in summer 7am-5pm; wildlife exhibits 9am-5pm. Free.)
Hunter Wetlands Centre. Founded in 1985 to provide sanctuary to birds and reptiles, these rehabilitated wetlands also offer respite to city-weary humans with walking paths and a creek for canoeing. Swans, egrets, ibis, blue herons, and parrots are just a few of the feathered fliers who call this place home. Monthly events include breakfast with the birds, twilight treks, and canoe safaris. Check website in advance for details. (Take CityRail to Sandgate, in the suburb of Shortland, and then walk 10min. on Sandgate Rd. By car, take the Pacific Hwy. to Sandgate Rd. ☎02 4951 6466; www.wetlands.org.au. Canoe rental: 2hr. 2-person $10; 3-person $15. Open M-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-5pm. $6, children $3, concessions $4, families $15.)
Festivals. Surfest (www.surfest.com) , Australia’s largest surfing festival, rides into town in late March for a week-long international surfing extravaganza. The Newcastle Jazz Festival (☎02 4973 2160; www.newcastlejazz.com.au) plays out in late August at City Hall. Newcastle Maritime Festival’s (☎04 1227 5707 ) boat races and water sports are in October. Mattara spring festival (☎02 4962 5648; www.mattarafestival.org.au) celebrates cultural diversity in early October. The This is Not Art Festival (☎02 4927 0470; www.thisisnotart.org.au) brings together Newcastle’s young musicians, artists, writers, media-makers, and troublemakers for five days of creative energy at the end of September and early October.
City Hall recently enforced a new 3am curfew, officially intended to curb street violence, but some locals grumble that there was never really a crime problem. Regardless, Newcastle is fast becoming one of Australia’s major musical hubs. The Post, a free newspaper, publishes a weekly That’s Entertainment guide to live music around the area; pick up a copy at the tourist office. Wednesday night is “Uni Night” all around town; keep your eyes open for special events and offers, as well as late closing times.
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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