Montreuil-Sur-Mer Overview

Though its name is misleading (there has not been a drop of salt water here since the 13th century, when the ocean began to recede), tiny Montreuil-sur-Mer (mahn-truhy-suhr-mehr; pop. 2430) is as idyllic as one might imagine. Victor Hugo chose to set a large portion of Les Misérables in this charming provincial town, which continues to pay homage to the masterpiece with an annual performance of the story. Summer festivals stir things up in the town, but the surrounding countryside offers a constant sense of calm. Maintaining a simple appeal as a relatively untouristed destination, Montreuil will encourage romance in even the most misérable of visitors.

• Trains: Just outside the citadel walls (☎03 21 06 05 09). Open M-F 5:45am-8pm, Sa 9:30am-noon and 1-6:20pm, Su 2:45-7:40pm. To: Arras (1hr., 7 per day, €13); Boulogne (30min., 7 per day, €6.80); Calais (1hr., 5 per day, €12); Lille (2hr.; M-F 5 per day, Sa-Su service limited; €17).
• Bike Rental: ETS Vignaux, 73 rue Pierre Ledent (☎03 21 06 00 29). Look for a sign that reads “Giant Bikes.” €10 per ½-day, €15 per day; €200 deposit. Open Tu-Sa 9am-noon and 2-7pm. AmEx/MC/V.

Practical Information

• Tourist Office: 21 rue Carnot (☎03 21 06 04 27; www.tourisme-montreuillois.com). From the station, climb the stairs and turn right onto av. du 11 Novembre. Continue under the Porte de Boulogne and bear right on Parvis St-Firmin. Turn right at the sign for “Auberge de Jeunesse” onto rue des Bouchers, follow it to its end, and take a left on the footpath by the statue of Notre Dame; the office is straight ahead. English-speaking staff distributes a free map, a guide that details the town’s 6 churches, and brochures in English and French. Open July-Aug. M-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 10am-12:30pm and 3-5pm; Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-June M-Sa 10am-12:30pm and 2-6pm, Su 10am-1pm; Nov.-Mar. M-Sa 10am-12:30pm and 2-5pm.
• Currency Exchange: Crédit du Nord, 37 pl. du Général du Gaulle (☎03 21 90 92 20). ATM. Open Tu-F 1:45-6pm; exchanges available Tu-F 8:45am-12:15pm, Sa 8:50-noon.
• Laundromat: Laverie Montreuilloise, 44 rue Pierre Ledent (☎06 35 90 25 89). Wash €3.50 per 6kg. Open daily 8am-8pm.
• Police: Pl. Gambetta (☎03 21 81 08 48).
• Hospital: Rang-du-Fliers (☎03 21 89 45 45).
• Post Office: Pl. Gambetta (☎03 21 06 70 00). Open M-F 8:30am-noon and 1:30-5pm, Sa 8:30am-noon. Postal Code: 62170.

Accommodations And Camping

• B&B Madame Renard, 4 av. du 11 Novembre (☎03 21 86 85 72), up the stairs from the train station. Large rooms in a 3-story house. Fireplaces in common rooms. Secluded garden. Convenient for backpackers who don’t want to lug their packs up to the city. Breakfast included. Reservations recommended. Singles with sink and shared bath or shower €35, with private bath €40; doubles €45. Extra bed €10-15. Cash only.
• Auberge de Jeunesse “La Hulotte Citadelle” (HI), rue Carnot (☎03 21 06 10 83), inside the citadel. Summer-camp-style accommodations. Sweeping views make up for the hike. Guests can enjoy the citadel for free. Kitchen. Reception 10am-noon and 2-6pm. Reservations recommended. Open from Mar. to mid-July and from mid-Aug. to Oct. Dorms €11. Cash only.
• Camping La Fontaine des Clercs, 1 rue de l’Église (☎03 21 06 07 28). Plots by the Canche River. Local boulanger visits the site M-Tu and Th-Su at 8:45am with fresh breakfast for sale. Reception 9-10am, noon-1pm, 6-7pm. Check-out noon. Curfew 10pm. Open Feb.-Nov. 1 or 2 people with car or tent €15; extra person €3.50. Electricity €3.50. AmEx/MC/V.

Food

Find restaurants and a Shopi supermarket (open M-Sa 8:30am-7:30pm, Su 9am-noon) at pl. du Général de Gaulle; boulangeries are on the surrounding streets. A market floods place du Général de Gaulle Saturdays 8am-1pm.

• Le Jéroboam, 1 rue des Juifs (☎03 21 86 65 80). Classy restaurant named after the term for a 3L wine bottle. Gourmet meals in a room decorated with wine barrels, crates, and corks. Plats €20-54. Lunch menu €17. Dinner menus €25. Open July-Aug. M 7-9:15pm, Tu-Sa noon-1:45pm and 7-9:15pm; Sept.-June Tu-Sa noon-1:45pm and 7-9:15pm. MC/V.
• Taverne de l’Écu de France, 5 Porte de France (☎03 21 06 01 89), off pl. du Général de Gaulle. Regional specialties, including moules (mussels; €10). Summer salad (€11) is deliciously filling. Open M-Tu and F-Su noon-2pm and 8:30-10pm. MC/V.

Sights And Outdoor Activities

Club Canoë-Kayak, 4 rue Moulin des Orphelins, offers canoe and kayak excursions. (☎03 21 06 20 16; ckmontreuil@wanadoo.fr. ½-day sessions from €10, full-day €25. Open May-Aug. daily 9:30am-5:30pm. Reservations required.)

Ramparts. The 3km long ramparts overlook grassy hills, verdant groves of the Canche valley, and distant villages. The Promenade des Remparts footpath follows their entire length. (Free.)

Citadel. The 16th-century citadel in the haute-ville sits on the site of the old royal castle. Allegedly, Vauban (who designed or redesigned most French fortresses) was unimpressed with the original’s safety features and ordered renovations in the 17th century. (Open with tour from late July to early Aug. daily 10am-noon; from mid-Aug. to Nov. and from mid-Apr. to late July M and W-Su 10am-noon and 2-6pm; from Mar. to mid-Apr. daily 10am-noon and 2-5pm. Free English guides available. €2.50, under 18 €1.25.)

Nightlife

• West Indies, 25 rue Pierre Ledent (☎03 21 81 95 92). Part rhumerie (rum distillery), part tapas bar, and part shrine to Che Guevara. Serves 140 types of rum (€4.50-45) and the popular Hemingway’s Special mojito (€8) to rugged locals. Tapas (€3.90-5.50) served on the weekend. Open M-F 6:30pm-1am, Sa 6:30pm-2am. AmEx/MC/V.
• Crêperie et Artisinat, rue du Clape en Bas (☎06 23 71 17 28). Come early (4pm) to see local artists working in the adjoining studios. Soundtrack ranges from the “formidable hommage à la légende Elvis” to Celtic folk. Crêpes and galettes €2-8. Free concerts Th 9:30pm, Su 5pm; pick up a concert schedule at the bar or tourist office. Open daily from mid-June to Sept. 4pm-midnight. Cash only.

Festivals

• Les Misérables Son et Lumière, from late July to early Aug. Les Misérables light show features 300 actors in period costume, horses, and fireworks. €18, ages 5-12 €12.
• Les Malins Plaisirs (☎03 21 98 12 26), Aug. Stages operatic, theatrical, and musical performances. Call the tourist office to reserve tickets. €14-18, under 25 €9-14.
• Day of the Street Painters, Aug. 15. Artists haunt the ramparts and the haute-ville to paint landscapes of Montreuil, which are displayed in pl. Verte in the afternoon.
• Festival des Soupes, Bouillons, et Pains, late Oct. Celebrate soup, stock, and bread at the citadel. €5; includes bowl and unlimited soup and bread.