Creel’s railway—the CHEPE train—now hauls loads of tourists rather than gold, but the high altitude and dramatic, rocky surroundings of the western boom town help it stay cool and collected in the midst of this backpacker bombardment. The town (pop. 5000) has frigid temperatures in the winter, making it a great place to escape the summer heat and humidity of lowland Mexico. While the steady flow of foreigners has turned the main street into a row of hotels, restaurants, and gift shops, it hasn’t diluted Creel’s rugged ambience. The town still hosts local lumber industries as well as a hospital and school for indigenous Tarahumara children. Creel is the most popular base for excursions into Las Barrancas del Cobre and the Sierra Tarahumara, and the wilderness surrounding Creel is picturesque and easily accessible. Creel’s incongruous mix of budget travelers, indígenas, and small-business entrepreneurs make it a worthy stop in its own right.
Creel is one of the few towns in the Sierra Tarahumara accessible both by bus and train and is the best starting point for trips into the canyons. The only transportation between Creel and the coast is the train. Buses only go north and east, since the Sierra is very difficult to traverse by road.
The railroad tracks function as a rough compass: toward Chihuahua is north and toward Los Mochis is south. The zócalo is the best place in which to get your bearings. The main street, Mateos, runs parallel to the tracks on the opposite side of the zócalo and is the only street near the zócalo that extends any distance. Most listings are south of the train station on Mateos, or on Batista or Flores, which branch off Mateos to the east. Villa parallels the tracks on the opposite side of Mateos. The areas beyond Mateos are very underdeveloped and mainly residential. Most activity takes place on Mateos.
Due to Creel’s popularity with Canyon-bound tourists, a large number of establishments compete for tourist pesos. The result is straight out of an economics textbook: plentiful budget rooms and negotiable prices during low season. Many accommodations are within a couple of blocks of the zócalo. The Villa Mexicana campground offers relatively safe and affordable camping. Free camping is available near Lake Arareco or around the bike trail, but may be unsafe—use caution.
Cheap, tasty food is easy to find in Creel and comes with a smile. There is a supermarket, Comercial de Creel, on Mateos 55. (Open M-Sa 9am-8pm.) After-hours hot dog stands dot Mateos. (Jumbo hot dogs 20 pesos.)
Tourists come to Creel to visit the breathtaking Barrancas del Cobre, which surround the entire town. To explore the canyons, you’ll need a car, a tour guide, or a strong legs and a brave streak. Still, the town has some sights closer to home. Museo Creel Tarahumara, on Ferrocarril 17 in the old railroad station across from the zócalo, has exhibits on the town’s eponymous founder, former Chihuahua governor Enrique Creel (1854-1931), as well as the Chihuahua-Pacific Railroad and Tarahumara history and mythology. (☎456 0080. Open Tu-F 9am-1pm and 3-6pm, Sa 9am-6pm, Su 9am-1pm. 10 pesos, students 7 pesos, children 5 pesos.) Dinosaur fossils and relics from the region’s mining past can be found at El Museo de Paleontogía, near the beginning of Mateos. Look for the building with dinos on it. (Open Th-Tu 9am-1pm and 3-6pm. 10 pesos.)
While most of the establishments in Creel close before 9pm, there are a few late-night options. Tourists roam the streets and people strum guitars until midnight. Tío Molcas, Mateos 35 at Caro, is the only bar in the centro. Filled with tourists, locals, and Mexican sports fanatics, its relaxed atmosphere breaks cantina stereotypes. You’ll find no trouble unless you bring it along. (Beer 15 pesos, free shot of tequila available upon request. Open daily 3pm-1am. Kitchen closes at 11pm.)
Creel has some of the best mountain biking terrain in the entire world, rivaling the legendary trails of Moab, Utah. Every July, La Onza Copper Canyon Race attracts hundreds of young cycling aficionados from all over the Western Hemisphere. Bikers will find single-track trails winding through tall pines, volcanic formations, and Tarahumara villages on the eastern mesas. It is recommended that beginners rent a sturdy bike from a travel agency before starting out on the San Ignacio Loop, a roughly 3hr. circuit around Creel’s nearest daytrip sites. Longer excursions to the canyon towns are popular, but travelers should hire a guide familiar with the riding surface (slick rock and quick switchbacks). Los 3 Amigos rents new bikes (90 pesos for 5hr., 150 pesos for 24hr.), and has a permanent mechanic on staff. Free Internet access at the office is included in the package. Umarike Tours rents mountain bikes with front suspension in excellent shape, and also provides expert information. (120 pesos for 4hr., 180 pesos per day.)
The many cliffs and gorges in the area are perfect for rock climbing, bouldering, and rappelling. Most of the beautiful crag and face, however, is not for amateurs—climbing requires not only grit but also professional familiarity. The area inside Chapultepec Park, near the Plaza Mexicana, is the best site for beginner lessons or a few veteran hours with some overhang. Arturo Gutierrez at Umarike Tours is an expert spider-man and rents out gear and info. Visit www.umarike.com.mx to contact Arturo in advance.
Creel is also the starting point of several ultra-marathons. This is more than appropriate as the Tarahumara—whose tribal name means “runners on foot” in the Ráramuri tongue—are considered to be some of the greatest long-distance runners in the world. A Tarahumara may run in his huarachis for up to four days, covering 50-80 miles per day. Although it’s unlikely that you’ll be doing any such marathoning, you’ll likely see one or two running Tarahumara. Several locations along Mateos rent ATVs and dirt bikes, and the area behind the Hotel Villa Mexicana has excellent moguls for the more adventurous.
The valleys surrounding Creel are home to impressive rock formations, former cave dwellings, and breathtaking scenery. Above the canyon floors, there are many additional sights just a few hours from Creel, but none are accessible via the CHEPE train. While many hotels and companies offer tours to Creel’s vicinity, exploring on your own for free is probably your best option.
Laguna Arareco And Environs. Most sights are en route to Laguna Arareco, a semi-clean freshwater lake, and the best way to see all of them is to follow the loop around the water. Free maps of this route are available at Casa de Margarita and Los 3 Amigos . Just past the park entrance, on the left, is Cueva Sebastian and Misión de San Ignacio. The caves have been home to one Tarahumara tribe for hundreds of years, and travelers are invited to pass through their homes. The mission, built in 1744, celebrates a Jesuit-style mass in Ráramuri, the native Uto-Aztecan language of the Tarahumara people.
Continuing straight past the mission, you will come to a sign for the Valle de los Hongos (Valley of the Mushrooms), named for the mushroom-like appearance of the rock formation at the bottom of the hill. Turn right, and you will come to the valley, beyond which are the Valle de las Ranas (Valley of the Frogs) and the Valle de las Chichis (Valley of the Boobies). Going back along the path and following the main gravel road, you will find signs pointing to the (appropriately far away) Valle de los Monjes (Valley of the Monks), whose spectacular vertical, spiral rock formations are the most impressive of the area. Before reaching Valle de los Monjes, you will see a sign on the right pointing down a path to Laguna Arareco. After gawking at the Valle de los Monjes, head back to this sign and follow the 3km path to reach Laguna, which is cold and not ideal for swimming. Boating used to be popular on the lake, but has recently been banned. From the water, follow the path to the highway. Turn right on the highway to head back to Creel (8km). The entire trip is 22km long and takes 6-7hr. on foot. Mountain biking through the area is popular and takes about half the time (see Outdoor Activities). Los 3 Amigos rents two-seat scooters for US$10 per hr. No matter how you choose to cruise, pack plenty of water and a snack. (To reach the park entrance, take Mateos south all the way past the centro, continuing onward as it becomes a gravel road. When the road forks, go left, up a hill past a cemetery, until you reach the park gates. Park admission 15 pesos, students and children 10 pesos.) Alternatively, start the loop from the highway to Batopilas. Small houses along the path are supposed to charge a 10-peso toll, but the booths are usually unmanned in low season.)
Rekowata Hot Springs. The Rekowata Hot Springs bubble about 20km outside of Creel. The pools are about as clean as the lake, and the temperature usually hovers around 98˚F. The hot springs are difficult to reach by foot or bike, and the roads there are not conducive to travel by scooter or pickup truck. (The best option to see the hot springs is to book a tour with one of the hotels in Creel.)
Cusárare. There are three exits for Cusárare. The first and third lead to the Cusárare waterfall, and branch off to the right. The first path (3km) is fairly hilly, while the other (1.9km) is considerably more gentle. Although the waterfall is only 98 ft. high, it can reach a width of 85 ft. during the rainy season (July-Sept.). The rest of the year it is little more than a trickle, but that doesn’t stop schoolchildren and tourists from walking the poorly maintained path to the base and playing in the pools. The second exit, which branches off to the left, leads to the town of Cusárare itself, with the Misión and its museum. The mission is over 270 years old and features strong Tarahumara elements in its design and decoration. Several restored paintings are now being housed in the custom-built Museo de Loyola located next door. Turning right instead of left at the second exit takes you to the Sierra Lodge, the only hotel in Cusárare. Park your car near the lodge and follow the green arrow pointing to the “Cascada”; the hike to the falls (3km) is breathtaking. Watch out for falling rocks. (Cusárare waterfall is situated 25km southeast of Creel, and most guides offer 1- or 2-day trips. Alternatively, Estrella Blanca runs buses to Hidalgo del Parral via Cusárare. 20min., 2 per day, 22 pesos. Museo open Tu-Su 9am-6pm. The last bus leaves Cusárare at 6pm. Joint mission/waterfall ticket can be purchased at either site, 15 pesos.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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