The Sierra Tarahumara—home to the indigenous Tarahumara—is an achingly beautiful mountain range. A view of the 11 interlocking canyons known as Las Barrancas del Cobre from the highest peaks shows earth at mind-boggling scale: the chasms reach depths of almost 2km and the entire system spans an area over four times the size of the US’s Grand Canyon. Commonly referred to simply as Copper Canyon, the area is quickly becoming one of North America’s most popular ecotourism destinations. The countless gorges, ravines, and rugged adventure trails are home to arid deserts, snow-capped peaks, pine forests, river valleys, and sub-tropical rainforests.
A ride on the Chihuahua al Pacífico (CHEPE) train, a modern engineering marvel spanning more than 700km, is the quickest, safest way to see the best canyon spots. Hiking, riding, biking, and driving through the canyon is very difficult, but infinitely more rewarding. The area lacks trails, transportation, adequate topographical maps, administrative infrastructure, and even decent roads, making advanced outdoors skills—or the aid of a knowledgeable guide—a requirement for any excursion. Infrastructure problems are exacerbated by the fact that most people visit during the rainy monsoon season (July-Aug.), when storms routinely wash out the roads and the train tracks, stranding visitors for days on end. Because of this, most travelers resort to being shuttled to the sights by a Creel-based tour company.
The CHEPE train, although painfully slow, is one of the best ways to take in the stunning scenery of Las Barrancas del Cobre and is a perennial favorite with visitors. Mexicans boast that the trip is “the greatest train ride in the world,” and the rail voyage is the only way to see the virtually inaccessible Copper Canyon, the particular chasm that is the area’s namesake. Two types of trains make the daily journey between Los Mochis and Chihuahua. The second-class train has spacious reclining seats and clean bathrooms and is well air-conditioned. The first-class train is twice as expensive, but for your extra money all you get is tilt-o-matic seats, a nicer dining car, and, occasionally, an open-air viewing car.
Trains go from Los Mochis to Chihuahua (1st-class 13hr., 6am, 1451 pesos; 2nd-class 14hr., 7am, 726 pesos) and from Chihuahua to Los Mochis (1st-class 6am, 1451 pesos; 2nd-class 7am, 726 pesos). Trains, especially those heading towards Chihuahua, usually run late (up to 2hr.). Stops, listed for second-class trains from Los Mochis, are: Sufragio, El Fuerte, Loreto, Temoris, Bahuachivo, Cuiteco, San Rafael, Divisadero, Creel, San Juanito, La Junta, Cuauhtémoc, and Chihuahua. You don’t want to get stranded at any of these tiny destinations, as most lack even electricity and plumbing. At Divisadero, the trains stop for 15min., allowing passengers to take in the spectacular view and be bombarded by gorditas, tropical fruits, and arts and crafts vendors. Though often overlooked, El Fuerte is just as decent a place to get on or off as Los Mochis. The city is not particularly attractive in the high summer, but any time of year it is more appealing, cheaper, and safer than Los Mochis. Furthermore, whichever way you’re going, it allows for an extra 2hr. in bed.
One of the safest and surest ways to explore Las Barrancas is with a tour, which costs only slightly more than doing it solo. Band together with as many other interested travelers as possible to keep costs down. Booking a tour is the best course of action when planning an overnight trek or going somewhere inaccessible; daytrip tours may not be as worthwhile. Daytrips should be arranged a day in advance, while overnight treks must be planned two to three days in advance. Check around before booking a tour, as prices and deals may change. Most tours head to Aguas Termales de Rekowata, El Divisadero, La Bufa, Basihuare, Río Urique, Basaseachi Falls, and sometimes Batopilas. Most companies also run tours to Lago de Arareko, Cueva de Sabastián, Valle de las Ranas, and Valle de los Hongos, but these destinations are all easy day hikes from Creel.
Candameña Canyon (Canyon of Cascades) is one of the most accessible canyons in the Sierra Tarahumara, as well the most sparsely populated. The two most popular sights, Basaseachi Falls and Piedra Volada Falls, are best seen as a combined daytrip from Creel. The CHEPE train stops a few hours away at San Juanito—Bocoyna municipality’s largest town—but the only lodging available is an extremely expensive hotel. The canyon is cut in half by the very calm Río Candameña, which is easily navigated with prior advice from a knowledgeable guide. Backpackers often make the 3-day trek from the river’s source to its drop at the falls.
Basaseachi. The town of Basaseachi (“Place of the Cascade in Ráramuri) lies west of Creel on Mex. 16, which runs between Hermosillo and Chihuahua. To reach Basaseachi from Creel, take Mex. 127 north 45km, and then Mex. 16 110km west. Otherwise, take a tour or a bus. Estrella Blanca sends buses to Hermosillo from Chihuahua (5hr., 2 per day, 212 pesos) and Cuauhtémoc (3hr., 2 per day, 178 pesos). From Creel, take a bus toward Chihuahua and get off at San Pedro, where Mex. 16 meets Mex. 127. The 7am and noon buses (1hr., 75 pesos) will get you to San Pedro in time to catch the Basaseachi-bound buses at 9am and 2:30pm (3hr., 100 pesos), but you’ll have to wait at least an hour. The last bus leaves Basaseachi at 5pm.
Cascadas Basaseachi. Water cascades from a height of 311m at Basaseachi Waterfall. During the rainy season (July-Sept.), it becomes Mexico’s second largest waterfall. Tucked into a corner of Canyon Candameña, the falls don’t get many visitors, but those who do make the trip are rewarded with scenery from a postcard photographer’s wildest dreams. Unfortunately, the falls area can run dry during the months of September through June. The route to the falls (45min., each way) is clearly marked with signs reading “C. Basaseachi” and leads to a natural window that affords a breathtaking view of the falls and surrounding canyon. The walk along the slippery path is comparable to standing in a hurricane; the spray and spume from the falls literally jumps off the face of the cliff. Adventurous souls can trek to the base of the falls by following the path. The hike is difficult and takes another hour from the window, but the reward is a subtropical paradise. (The falls can be reached either from the town of Basaseachi or from the military checkpoint. From the military checkpoint the trip is only 6km, instead of the 12km from the Las Estrellas junction in town where the bus stops. Either way, the road is paved, and the entrance fee is only 10 pesos.)
Cascadas Piedra Volada. About 4km from the Basaseachi falls, Piedra Volada (453m) is considered the highest waterfall in Mexico and the 12th highest in the world. Piedra Volada carries less water than Basaseachi, however, and is similarly only impressive during the rainy season (July-Sept.). The way to the falls is poorly marked; the best way to get there is to hire a guide in either Creel or Basaseachi. About 800m before you reach the window, you’ll pass the Rancho San Lorenzo, which runs Lobo Turismo de Aventura, offering a wide variety of activities, including tours to Piedra Volada on foot or on horseback. They also offer camping facilities, cabins, and a restaurant, all within the park. (☎614 414 6046; lobo-waterfalls@yahoo.com.mx. Piedra Volada tours 5hr., 6 person min., 250 pesos Camping 100 pesos; 4-bed cabin 526 pesos, with kitchen 650 pesos; 10-bed cabin 1111 pesos.)
The views from Batopilas Canyon are second only to those at Urique. If you choose to drive yourself, it’s best to stay under 60km per hr. on the paved road and under 30km per hr. (first and second gear) on the dirt roads. The last gas station is after the town of Napuchi, 1km before the turn-off to Batopilas , 74km south of Creel on Mex. 23. From here, the road turns to dirt and is wide enough for only one car, with canyon pressing close on both sides. Be careful driving, especially during July to Sept., when rain often washes out sections of the switchback dirt route. Check weather conditions and drive slowly, allowing up to 9hr. if you want to stop at the sights along the way. Manual transmission is recommended, and it is always best to let fast-moving trucks pass.
Environs. Canyon attractions include Misión Satevo, a former 18th-century Jesuit mission known as the “Lost Cathedral,” featuring unusual brick architecture. (8km south of Batopilas., 20min. ride following the main street past Batopilas’s end.) To see abandoned mines, such as Penasquito and La Bufa, it’s highly advised to hire a guide in Creel—the structures are old and can be dangerous for those unfamiliar with the area—or to take the bus, which is relatively safe. Buses from Creel leave across the street from Los Pinos hotel (5-6 hr.; M, W, F 9:30am, Tu, Th, Sa 7am; 160 pesos). Travelers will arrive in Creel before any of the CHEPE trains pass through. Tickets available at Hotel Los Pinos, Cafe Creel, and onboard.
Batopilas. The town of Batopilas (pop. 1150) was founded in 1708 by Pedro de la Cruz, and quickly gained prominence as the canyon’s center for mining operations. It is considered by many to be the “most remote town in North America.” The real attraction is the drive to Batopilas from Creel: you can stop to see the falls at Cusárare (km 112), the caves at Basihuare (km 133), the canyon bottom at Humira (km 150), and the Batopilas canyon rim (km 27 on the dirt road), reaching Batopilas just in time for dinner.
If you don’t bring your own tent and tour guide Batopilas has a few places to stay, including Hotel Juanita 3, across the main plaza where the bus stops (☎456 9043; doubles 250 pesos; cash only) and Casa Monse 2, next-door (☎456 9027; singles and doubles 200 pesos) From the main plaza, walk past the church and turn left, right, and left again up the rock steps. Knock on the door of the nearby house to ask to be let in.
Sinforosa Canyon, often called the “Queen of the Canyons,” is farthest away from Creel (4hr.), but very close to Hidalgo del Parral . The largest town in the canyon, 160km from Creel southeast on Chihuahua Highway 25, Guachochi (pop. 10000), the Tarahumara cultural center, is almost twice the size of Creel. There are a number of Tarahumara caves to visit, and many waterfalls with 5-80m drops, the tallest being the Rosalinda. These falls and caves are accessible via walking trails. Hot springs are located at Agua Caliente and Esmeralda, on the Nonoava river.
Urique Canyon is the deepest chasm in Las Barrancas del Cobre. The altitude drop from Creel to the river bottom is approximately 2000m. The least treacherous way to make the tremendous descent is to take a 4WD vehicle from Creel down the switchbacks. Los 3 Amigos rents Nissan double-cabs (1200 pesos per 24hr., in low season 1000 pesos; includes camping chairs, insurance, satellite radio, lunch for 5, excellent maps, and one full gas tank). The agency is more than happy to send a guide along—it is highly recommended that travelers take advantage of this service, as driving in the canyon can be extremely perilous.
Río Urique. To reach Río Urique by vehicle, travel south from Creel on the highway into San Rafael. At San Rafael, follow the signs directing you to Cerocahui. Here the paved road turns to dirt and can be dangerous during the summer, as monsoon rains often pool into creeks in the middle of the road and sometimes wash it out completely. Eventually, you’ll come to a fork in the road. Take the right-hand path. You should pass the tiny towns of Cuiteco and Bahuichevo before arriving in Cerocahui. The road from Cerocahui goes uphill, followed by a terrific plunge into the canyon—all on dirt and gravel. The drive from Cerocahui village over the hill and down to Río Urique is perilous under certain conditions, but without a doubt the most beautiful in all the canyon system. The two most astounding viewpoints are the Mesa de Arturo and, farther down, the Mirador Gallegos.
Cerocahui. It takes about 5hr. to reach the bottom of Urique Canyon and 5hr. to climb back out. It’s best to make it a long daytrip with a picnic at the river, but if you can’t head out of Creel at dawn, Cerocahui (pop. 900) is a nice place to set up camp. Hotel Plaza 3 (☎456 5256), across from the old mission, is the cheapest hotel in town and has very hospitable owners . (Doubles with TV, showers, and excellent view of the surrounding ranches 350 pesos. Cash only.) Local caballeros (cowboys) offer horse tours to nearby Huichochi Waterfall for flexible prices. The Muñoz brothers, owners of the San Isidro Lodge and amigos of Los 3 Amigos, offer custom bike and horse tours of the canyon. (☎456 5257; www.coppercanyonamigos.com.)
This spot, 35km away at the rim of the Urique Canyon, is an excursion that many tourists miss. Three canyons (Cobre, Tararecua, and Urique) can be seen merging into each other from the Mirador (7316 ft. above sea level). This view extends over 100 mi., and is especially magnificent at sunrise, when the light appears to rise out of the ravines themselves.
At Divisadero there are plenty of trails leading down from the canyon rim where the hotels are. Using the expensive hotels as a reference point, you can venture to the bottom of the canyon and return without a guide with plenty of time to catch the CHEPE train to Creel. (6pm, 50 pesos. 1st-class 4pm, 129 pesos; 2nd-class 6pm, 65 pesos.) To get there without the train, follow Mex. 23 towards San Rafael or take a Noroeste bus from the stations across the railway tracks (1st bus leaves 10:30am, 40 pesos). It is best to go early because tickets sell out.
La Piedra Volada , is worthy of the moderate 2hr. hike from Divisadero. From the wobbly giant boulder you can see Las Escaleras, a natural staircase cut into the mountainside. Tourists are invited to jump up and down on the precariously perched boulder. Trust us: the boulder won’t fall. If you want to spend more than a day here, it’s best to hire a guide in Creel who knows the area.
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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