Torreón Overview

Torreón (pop. 550,000) began its days as a railroad hub, and for most tourists it remains a waystation seen only in transit., a northern center of light industry. If you must stay in scorching Torreón, see Cristo de Las Noas—the 31m tall statue of Christ is the world’s third largest—and make the daytrip to the heavenly vineyards of Parras de La Fuente.

Transportation. The Central de Autobuses de Torreón, Juárez 4700 (720 3124), is about 7km east of the centro. Estrella Blanca (☎720 0808) sends buses to: Durango (3hr., 9 per day, 173 pesos); Guadalajara (10hr., 4 per day, 431 pesos); Matamoros (10hr., 4 per day, 430 pesos); Mexico City (13hr., 1 per day, 731 pesos); Zacatecas (6hr., every hr., 280 pesos). From the bus station, catch a very slow pesero to the centro (40min., 3.60 pesos). Ómnibus de México provides service to Chihuahua (7hr., 6 per day, 315 pesos) and Hidalgo del Parral (4hr., 3 per day, 212 pesos). Autotransportes Parras-Torreón services Parras de la Fuente (3hr., 7 per day, 105 pesos) and smaller towns on the way. Transportes Coahuilenses serves smaller towns within the state, including Cuatro Ciénegas (3hr., 137 pesos). Taxis to the centro cost 40 pesos. Budget, Paseo de la Rosita 910, or at the Hotel Fiesta Inn in the centro, offers car rentals. (☎721 9091; torreon@budgetansa.com. Cars from 800 pesos per day.) A special street car shuttles tourists from the Fiesta Inn Hotel to all major sites in Torreón, including the museums, Cristo de las Noas, and the many plazas. (Fiesta Inn Hotel, Paseo de la Rosita 910. ☎732 2244 or 720 1861. Daily 9am-6pm, frequency depends on demand. Prices vary.)

Orientation And Practical Information. Hotels, restaurants, and most services listed are located in the area immediately surrounding the Plaza de Armas, which is bordered by Morelos to the north and Juárez to the south. Cepeda is at the eastern edge of the plaza, Carrillo at the western. The Bosque Venustiano Carranza is 2km east of the plaza. One can catch buses and carritos (collective taxis) going to almost any part of Torreón.

The tourist office, Pasco de la Rosita 308, is a hike from the centro. It posts informative maps in front of the Palacio de Gobierno and the Plaza de Armas. (☎732 2244, toll-free English line 800 718 4220. Open M-F 9am-6pm.) Banks with 24hr. ATMs cluster near the Plaza de Armas. Banco Santander, at the corner of Carrillo and Morelos on the Plaza de Armas, exchanges currency. (Open M-F 9am-4pm.) American Express is on García 95 Sur at Matamoros. (☎718 3620. Open M-F 9am-2pm.) Luggage storage is available at the bus station. (4 pesos per hr. Open 24hr.) To get to Lavandería los Ángeles, Independencia 37 Ote., at Colón, walk to Independencia and then catch a bus (3.30 pesos) to Colón. (☎713 4459. 50 pesos. Open M-F 10am-2pm and 4-8pm, Sa 10am-5pm.) Other services include: emergency ☎060; police, at Colón and Revolución (☎733 6759); Red Cross, Cuauhtémoc 462 (☎713 0088 or 0192); Farmacia Santander, at Morelos and Carillo (☎712 8738; open 24hr.); Hospital los Ángeles, Paseo del Tecnológico 909 (☎729 0400 or 0415); Telecomm, Morelos 775, east of the Plaza de Armas, which has fax and Western Union (}/fax 716 6848; open M-F 8am-7pm); Internet access at Copias e Internet, Morelos 1175 Pte. (open daily 9am-9pm; 15 pesos per hr.); and the post office, at Juárez and Galeana, nine blocks east of Plaza de Armas, on the first floor of Palacio Federal (☎712 0264; Mexpost next door; open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 9am-1pm). Postal Code: 27000.

Accommodations And Food. Torreón’s budget accommodations cluster around the Plaza de Armas and tend to be large hotels from the 1930s and 1940s. Plenty of functional options can be found along Morelos, east of the Plaza de Armas. Hotel Galicia 1, Cepeda 273 Sur, between Juárez and Morelos, has funky rooms with individual balconies. Fans are available upon request. (☎716 1111. Singles 125 pesos; doubles 160 pesos; triples 210 pesos. Cash only.) Hotel Paseo 5, Morelos 547 Pte., is relatively pricey but without a doubt the best deal in Torreón. Amenities include pristine individual bath and cable TV. Wi-Fi in the lobby. (☎716 0303. Check-out 2pm. Singles 280 pesos; doubles 360 pesos. MC/V.)

The centro’s curbs and sidewalks teem with torta and gordita vendors. Locals crowd Lonches Roz y Morelos 1, one such cart with a small TV at Rodríguez and Morelos. (Sandwiches 12-16 pesos. Open daily 11am-6pm. Cash only.) De Granero 2, on Morelos 444 Pte., is a vegetarian restaurant popular with Torreón’s health-conscious residents. They serve fruit salads with granola and yogurt (35 pesos), soy chorizo burritos (10 pesos), and a wide selection of licuados (10-20 pesos). There is also an attached health-food store and bakery. (☎712 7144. Open daily 8am-9pm. MC/V.) Other locations are at Estadio and Carranza (☎717 8441) and Constitución 712 (☎718 7661)

Sights. Parks and museums dot the downtown area, including the 30-block Bosque Venustiano Carranza, on Cuauhtémoc between Juárez and Bravo, a favorite among Torreón’s families. The optimistically named Bosque (forest) is home to the Museo Regional de la Laguna, Juárez 1300 Ote. The museum holds Licio Lago’s collection of pre-Hispanic art and artifacts, complete with several well-executed fakes, which managed to fool Lago and still confound some archaeologists, in addition to a display on the Laguna area’s nomadic desert cultures. (☎713 9545. Open Tu-Su 10am-6:30pm. 27 pesos, children free.) Not far from the museum, a crew of break dancers monopolizes the Bosque’s open-air stage with elaborate footwork and headspins. (To get to the Bosque, catch a 4-peso colectivo labeled “Ruta Centro” on Juárez at the Plaza de Armas. It drops off and picks up 2 blocks from the entrance. Taxis 20 pesos.) Torreón is also home to the third largest statue of Christ in the world,  Cristo de las Noas, which spreads its imposing arms over the city and surrounding walls, towers, and rotundas. Follow the stairs to the summit for an amazing view of the town with gospel accompaniment courtesy of the large speakers nearby. A recreated Holy Land—with a calvary and caves of Gethsemane in the works—flanks the statue. The year 2007 marked the statue’s centennial anniversary. To get there, take a taxi from the centro (round-trip 70 pesos).

Entertainment And Nightlife. Lounging in the Plaza de Armas is by far the most popular type of entertainment in Torreón. On weekends, the whole city comes out to polka, salsa, and tango under the trees as the speakers blare música norteña. Caballeros (gentlemen) sport cowboy hats, tight jeans, and boots, while damas (ladies) wear shimmering dresses. Torreón’s bars often feature live musicians. Across from the plaza, inside Hotel Palacio Real, is El Greco, Morelos 1280 Pte., which often hosts live bands on weekends. Check the schedule posted outside for a listing of events. (☎716 0000. Corona 20 pesos. Happy hour 7-9pm, 2-for-1 drinks. Open Tu-Sa 6pm-2am. MC/V.) El Tecolote Bar Bohemio, on Morelos 657 Pte., is a popular hangout in the centro. (Beer 15 pesos. Open daily 8pm-2am. AmEx/MC/V.) The giant, zinc-plated Teatro Nazas, Cepeda Sur 150, is considered one of Mexico’s most modern theatres and can hold up to 2000 audience members. The auditorium hosts plays, musical concerts, and even operas. (For information on shows and times, call ☎712 4797.) Torreón has two main festivals, the Feria del Algodón (cotton fair; mid-Aug. to mid-Sept.) and the Feria Laguna (regional fair; early Oct.). The Gran Reguta del Río Nazas is a boat race on the city’s river in early July.

Parras De La Fuente

Parras de La Fuente (pop. 27,000) lies between Torreón and Saltillo, about a 2 hour bus ride from each city. From Torreón, Autotransportes Parras-Torreón (☎422 1139) services Parras (7 per day, 105 pesos) and returns to Torreón (5 per day, 6:30am-7pm). The local camioneta #12 runs to the vineyards and the tourist office via the Central (8 pesos). The easiest way to get around Parras is by car; taxis are available at the Central or by phone (☎422 1111). The bus stops at the tourist office, 3km outside of town on the highway that runs north to Mex. 40. (☎422 0259. Open daily 10am-1pm and 3:30-7pm.)

True to its nickname, the “Oasis of Coahuila,” Parras de la Fuente blooms in the desert. Fields of parras (grapevines) and walnut trees surround the little colonial town. Parras’s attractions are few but tranquil: visiting a historic winery, swimming in freshwater estanques (ponds), and relaxing on patios and in plazas.

The oldest vineyard in the New World—established in 1597—still produces wine at  Casa Madero, 4km outside town. The dark cellars, period mosaics, 20 ft. fermentation tanks, ancient wine presses, and vine-shaded paths are worth seeing, even if you can’t understand the tour. Dark and white grapes are in season from July-September (A taxi from the centro to the vineyard costs 40 pesos, or you can take the local Paila-bound bus from the bus station for 8 pesos. ☎422 0055; www.madero.com.mx. Guided tours in Spanish begin whenever a group arrives. Open daily 9am-5pm. Free.) Wines and brandies made at the Casa Madero estate are for sale near the winery’s entrance. Most are of lower quality—the good stuff is quickly bought by local restaurants and resorts—but are still worth a taste. (45-650 pesos per bottle, depending on size). For true Bacchic excess, visit Parras from August 3 to 19, during the Feria de la Uva (Festival of the Grape). New wines are uncorked, processions snake through town, and everyone takes part in the grape-stomping celebration. The rowdiest days are August 9 and 10. Non-booze-related sights also grace Parras. Estanque Hacienda and Estanque de la Luz are two popular ponds great for swimming and waterside relaxation. (Taxis from the centro around 30 pesos. 10 pesos. Open daily 10am-6pm.)