London Other Sights In Kensington And Earl’s Court

HOLLAND PARK. Smaller and less crowded than Kensington Gardens, Holland Park probably makes for a better picnic spot or quiet stroll than does its famous cousin. Set off from Kensington High St. and full of shady paths, the grounds also offer open fields, football pitches, a golf bunker, cricket nets, tennis courts, Japanese gardens, cafes, an open-air opera venue (Holland Park Theatre), and an adventure playground for the young or young at heart. Holland House, which sits at the center of the park, is home to the YHA hostel. (Bordered by Kensington High St., Holland Walk, and Abbotsbury Rd. Enter at Commonwealth Institute. High St. Kensington. ☎020 7471 9813, police 7441 9811, sport league and recreation info 020 7602 2226; Open daily 7:30am-dusk. Free.)

LEIGHTON HOUSE. Currently under renovation until April 2010, the house of painter Lord Fredric Leighton (1830-96) is a perfect example of all that is endearing and ridiculous in Victorian taste. Inspired by his trips to the Middle East, Leighton’s home combines oriental pastiche, Neoclassicism, and English decor. The centerpiece is the Arab Hall, a Moorish extravaganza of tilework and mosaic complete with fountain and carpets—the walls bear one of Europe’s best collections of medieval Arabian tile. Other rooms contain works by Leighton as well as other artists, including Millais, Tintoretto, and Edward Burne-Jones. (12 Holland Park Rd. High St. Kensington. ☎020 7602 3316; www.rbkc.gov.uk/leightonhousemuseum/general. Open M and W-Su 11am-5:30pm. Call or check website for prices and tours after the reopening.)

ROYAL ALBERT HALL. In contrast to the ornate Albert Memorial across the street, the classical Royal Albert Hall is one of the more restrained pieces of Victorian architecture, though perhaps not in size. Intended as an all-purpose venue, guests at the 1871 opening immediately noticed one shortcoming of the hall’s elliptical design: a booming echo that made it next to useless for musical concerts. Acoustics experts finally solved the problem in 1968, installing dozens of sound-absorbing discs suspended in a haphazard fashion from the dome. The hall has hosted Britain’s first full-length indoor marathon, the first public display of electric lighting, and the world premier of Hiawatha. It remains a versatile venue for everything from boxing matches to rock concerts, but it is best known as the seat of the Proms classical music festival. (Kensington Gore, just south of Kensington Gardens and the Albert Memorial. High St. Kensington. ☎020 7589 8212; www.royalalberthall.com. Box office at Door 12 open daily 9am-9pm. 45min. tours M-Tu and F-Su 10:30am-3:30pm every 30min.; reserve space in advance by calling box office. £8, students £7.)

ALBERT MEMORIAL. An ornate example of Victorian High Gothic style, this 1868 canopy by George Gilbert Scott was commissioned by Queen Victoria, who was so devastated by her dear husband’s death that she decided to immortalize him in gigantic gold-plated detail. It recently underwent a 10-year, £11.2 million restoration project, making it shine even more (if that’s possible). At Albert’s blindingly gilded feet, friezes represent the Four Industries, the Four Sciences, and the Four Continents, themes seemingly chosen more for their symmetry than for their accuracy. Above, over-the-top ornamentation continues with a 180 ft. spire inlaid with semi-precious stones. Head across to the Royal Albert Hall for the best view of the monument in its full glory. (Kensington Gore, on the edge of Kensington Gardens, just north of Royal Albert Hall. High St. Kensington. ☎020 7495 0916; www.royalparks.org.uk/parks/kensington_gardens. 45min. tours first Su of month Mar.-Dec. 2 and 3pm. Wheelchair-accessible. Free. Tours £5, concessions £4.50.)