Prague (Praha) Nové Město

• Pivovarský Dům, Jecná 15, 120 00 Praha 2 (☎29 621 6666; www.gastroinfo.cz/pivodum), Packed with Czech locals and a few wandering randos, this stellar microbrewery does Prague's beer proud. Start off with an 8-beer sampler that includes flavors like coffee, sour cherry, nettle, and banana (130Kč). But make sure you finish it—you'll need the liquid courage to tackle the football-sized roast pork knuckle with mustard and horseradish (205Kč), or the Brewmaster's Pocket (205Kč)—deep fried pork stuffed with cheese and more pork. If beer isn't your thing, you should probably leave Prague, but for now, try settling for some red or white wine served hot (50Kc). If pork isn't your thing, fear not: vegetarian choices abound. B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, take Ječná east away from the river; it's on your right at the corner of Ječná and Stěpánská. Entrees 140-300Kč. Beer 25-80Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Globe Bookstore, Pštrossova 1925/6, 110 00 Praha 1-Nové Město (☎22 252 0236; www.globebookstore.cz), Americans craving the type of culture that doesn't involve the Czech obsession with pasteurization will find a friend in the Globe. Great American fare like chicken wings (5Kč) during happy hour (M-W 5-7pm) and one of the best burgers you'll have this side of the pond (180Kč) both go well with excellent refillable drip coffee (40Kč), a rarity in Prague. Don't miss brunch (Sa-Su 9:30am-3pm) with brilliantly Western dishes like scrambled chorizo (180Kč). The cafe and attached bookstore host ex-pat book readings, movie screenings, or some kind of event most nights of the week. The bookstore itself has the largest collection of English books in the city. B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, take Resslova toward the river and then turn right on Na Zderaze, which becomes Pštrossova; the cafe is on your right. Make reservations if you have a big party. Three computers have Internet access for 1Kč per min. Entrees 100-250Kč. Beer 20-35Kč. Coffee 25-50Kč. Open M-Th 9:30am-midnight, F-Sa 9:30am-1am (or later). Attached bookstore keeps the same hours. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has internet. Has outdoor seating.
• Pizzeria Kmotra, V Jirchářích 12, Praha 1 (☎224 930 100; www.kmotra.cz), Tucked downstairs in a little Czech basement, Kmotra's puts most American pizzerias to shame at a quarter of the price. Just one of their 36 pizzas (110-170Kc) will fill up two people, but main dishes like gnocchi (125-145Kč) or entree salalds (125-145 Kč) will appease the pizza skeptic. Try the popular Don Corleone—it's literally soaking in pork fat—or get wild with the Spenatora II, which is cooked with spinach, bacon, and a cracked egg that fries as the pizza bakes. This is serious pizza. B: Národní třída. From the Metro, head down Ostrovni towards the river. After 2 blocks, take a left at Vorsilska. Entrees 100-200Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Restaurace U Zaludo, Na Zbořenci 261/5, Praha 2, (☎77 632 7118), Don't look for this place in other guidebooks or at the top of any “Best of Prague” lists. Instead, U Zaludo is the tiniest, salt-of-the-earthiest, most authentic Prague pub experience the city has to offer. This recommendation however comes with a warning: some customers have reported that no one would speak English to them or even present them with a menu. Fear not: simply learn the Czech for a few common food items: fried cheese, smažený sýr (40Kč), smoked pork, uzená krkovice (55 Kč), beer cheese, pivní sýr (40Kč), and grilled sausage, opečená klobása (40 Kč). This will be the cheapest meal you have in Prague, or T Let's Go will eat its hat. And if no one stops to serve you, at least watch old Praguers come in at noon, down five beers and a sho B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head towards the Resslova. Take the first right, then another immediate right at Na Zbořenci. Cash only. Beer 10-30Kč. Food 40-80Kč. Open M-F 10:30am-11pm, Sa-Su 11am-11pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Libeřské lahůdky, Vodičkova 9, Praha 1 (☎22 254 0828; www.liberskelahudky.cz), Technically this place is a Czech chain store, with 3 other locations in the Prague area, but given the home-cooked love that goes into its food, you'd never know the difference. Mouth-watering pastries for pennies (10-23Kč) will take you to pleasure town. For a light snack, check out one of many chlebiceks (16-19Kč). These open-faced sandwiches feature some assortment of caviar, salmon, pickles, tomatoes, eggs, ham, lettuce, or turkey. One croquette isn't completely filling, but two might do the trick—affordable at roughly 80 American cents a pop. Don't escape without rescuing the twice-stuffed donut from drowning in its glaze (19.50Kč). B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head north past the New Town Hall staying to the right on Vodičkova when it forks; the restaurant will be on your right. Takeout only. Everything 10-40Kč. Open M-F 7am-7pm, Sa-Su 8am-6pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Leica Gallery Prague, Školská 28, 110 00 Praha 1 (☎60 228 7820; www.lgp.cz), More Brooklyn than beer-soaked Prague, this little cafe/gallery is better enjoyed for its exhibitions and sleek mod interior than for its food. Coffees are on the pricer side (39-60Kč), but they include a free entrance to the monthly-rotating exhibits, which are suprisingly large and elaborate. A must for arsty travelers looking to meet like-minded locals. Bond over your similar opinions on deconstruction while enjoying a Kafka sandwich (all of the sandwiches are named after Czech authors.) At the very least, browse the immense collection of nude photography books. Don't worry, you're appreciating art. B: Karlovo náměstí. From Karlovo, head away from the river down Žitná. Školská is the second left. Sandwiches 65-99Kč. Hot drinks 40-90Kč. Open daily 2:30-10pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.
• Universal, V jirchářích 149/6, 110 00 Praha 1 (☎22 491 8182; www.universalrestaurant.cz), Despite being burdened with a menu that tries too hard to live up to its name, Universal manages to deliver a solid variety of cuisines. While pondering the giant elephant head on the wall, order a Chinese fondue for two (219Kč per person) or a French grilled tuna steak with ratatouille (279Kč). Hodge-podge, international decorations make the place look like a high class Applebees, but the great espresso (38Kč) and desserts (12-min. chocolate mellow cake; 65Kč) genuinely class up the experience. B: Národní třída. From the station, walk south on Spálená turning right towards the the river down Purkyňova and continuing down as it turns into Ostrovní. Take a left on Voršilská then a quick right onto V jirchářích. Entrees 175-299Kč. Mixed drinks 105-145Kč. Carafe of wine 100Kč. Open M-Sa 11:30am-1am, Su 11am-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Dynamo, Pštrossova 220/29 Praha 1 (☎224 932 020; www.dynamorestaurace.cz), With a 50s retro interior and an international menu, Dynamo is among the hipper joints in New Town. Fortunately, it doesn't take itself too seriously, offering quirky international flavors like Burgundy snails (125Kč) next to trashy American favorites like cheese-stuffed jalapenos (75Kč). Dynamo also boasts great drinks; its homemade lemonade (40Kč) comes in ginger or mint. Entrees, including great vegetarian options, err on the exotic side: there's grilled boned rabbit saddle with cream sauce (210Kč) or Red and Black—a grilled chicken steak with olive puree and spicy tomato salsa (150 Kč). B: Národní třída. From the station, walk down Osrovní toward the river and then turn left on Pštrossova; Dynamo is on the right. Main dishes 100-150Kč. Salads 50-150Kč. Open M-F 11:30am-midnight, Sa-Su 11am-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol.
• Café Royal, Myslíkově 1343/24 (☎22 491 3037; www.lunchtime.cz/royal-cafe/), Though Café Royal has a full English menu, the real deals here are the lunch specials (84-89Kč). There's just the little problem of the Czech-only specials menu, but just ask the waitress to translate. Three different specials are offered daily, and the menus change every week. In fact, Café Royal keeps its menu so fresh that more than a few patrons report eating there nearly every business day of the week. For regulars, traditional “Beef Tea” soup arrives before you even order (25Kč). Czech staples like fried cheese are also unbelieveably cheap (69Kč), and traditional entrees still drive a hard bargain (99-130Kč). Add apple strudel and coffee (55Kč) to any lunch special. B: Karlovo náměstí. From Karlovo take Odborů until it runs into Myslíkově. The cafe will be on your right. Entrees 90-175Kč. Open M-F 11am-midnight, Sa-Su noon-midnight. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Lemon Leaf, Myslíkově 14 Praha 2 (☎22 491 9656; www.lemon.cz), Besides having great Thai food at reasonable prices (lunch specials 99-129Kč), Lemon Leaf has one of the best happy hours in the city with discounts of 25% on meals (M-F 3:30-6pm). Plenty of tastes reward the daring eater, like cream of artichoke heart soup with saffron and edible flowers (49Kč), but traditional Thai staples are also well executed. Lemon Leaf is at its strongest when Czech and Thai forces work together, as in the milked corn soup with fresh horseradish (49Kč).The weekend lunch buffet is suprisingly elaborate (240Kč), as are the Thai murals and sculptures around the dining room. B: Karlovo náměstí. From Karlovo, take Rasslova toward the river and then make a right on Na Zderaze. Although the address says Myslíkově, the entrance is on Na Zderaze. Curry 149-169Kč. Noodle dishes 150-200Kč. Wine 240-800Kč. M-Th 11am-11pm, F-Sa 11am-12:30am, Su 12:30pm-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning.
• Café and Restaurant Slavia, Smetanovo nábřeží 2, Prague 1 (☎22 421 8493; www.cafeslavia.cz), Café Slavia's food, which is deserving of its reputation, is only one reason to visit this historic Czech café. During communist rule, this bustling cafe was home base for political dissidents like Václav Havel, and, thanks to a recent renovation, you can now experience it as they did in its full 1930s Art Deco glory. The menu, though somewhat pricey, sets Czech standards like beef fillet with cream sauce (189Kč) against more revolutionary fare, like the asparagus-only menu (70-190Kč). Or, skip the meal entirely and join well-dressed pre-theater Praguers for a pre-show “ice cup” (109Kč). The Hot Love cup features vanilla ice cream, warm raspberries and mint. B: Národní třída. From the station, walk north on Spálená and then turn left on Národní. The restaurant is at the end of the street, across from the National Theater. Entrees 89-300Kč. M-F 8am-midnight, Sa-Su 9am-midnight. Takes credit cards. Has internet. Serves alcohol.
• Café Louvre, Národní 116/20 110 00 Praha 1 (☎22 493 0949; www.cafelouvre.cz), A smart Parisian bistro with the most attractive waitstaff in town—maybe the world—Café Louvre brings welcome French snootiness to the Czech kitchen. Famous for serving minds like Einstein, Kafka, and Czech writer Karel Čapek, Lovure is a great stop for late breakfast with French favorites like quiche (129Kč), an omelette (109Kč) or pea cream soup with mint potato and bacon (60Kč). Vegetarian options like the tortilla with curry (129Kč) are also available. All go great with Café Louvre's excellent coffee. Check out the view of busy Národní from the café's second floor terrace and enjoy Czech specialites like Mrkvový Jablk—a carrot salad with apples (49Kč). The back of the cafe also has a smoky billiard room, open during restaurant hours. B: Národní třída. From the station, walk north on Spálená and then turn left on Národní. Entrees 100-200Kč. Coffee 40Kč. Open M-F 8am-11:30pm, Sa-Su 9am-11:30pm. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol.
• Zvonice, Jindřišská věž 110 00 Praha 1 (☎22 422 0009; www.restaurantzvonice.cz), Visitors to this intimate dining spot located on the seventh and eighth floors of the historic Saint Henry's Tower will literally have to compete with tower scaffolding for dining space, but the experience is truly one of a kind. Feel the building shake as the bells in the belfry chime every half hour. Definitely a splurge; a coke will cost you what an entire meal might elsewhere (99Kč), but remember that it's paired with an unbeatable setting. Fancy, exotic main dishes like grilled deer medallions with sour cherry sauce (730Kč) or wild boar with coriander and potatoes (790Kč) ensure you won't soon forget your meal. There's technically no dress code, but you'll feel rather out of place without a tie, or at least a sweet hat! From Wenceslas Square, walk down Jindřišská. It's the giant tower at the end of the street. Reservations recommended. Expect to pay 1000 Kč for the full dinner experience. Open 11:30am-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has air conditioning.
• Restaurace U Jindřišská Věže, Jindřišská 26, 110 00 Praha (☎22 423 0226; u-veze.cz), Maybe the most accessible traditional Prague experience in the city, this old-world pub has decorated with dozens of antique clocks and Alfons Mucha paintings. Filled with smoke and boisterous Praguers having debates and drinking, Věže is the perfect place to try the strange Prague specialites you've been avoiding. Pig brains (called Head Cheese; 53Kč) and sausage come pickled with onions and vinegar (53Kč). Main courses, like steak loaded with garlic and bacon, can only be described as “solid.” If you're brave enough, try out the Kettle of Strong Mettle, made from chicken chili, onions, leaks, and mushrooms. A or B: Můstek. From the station, head down Jindřišská street towards the tower. The restaurant will be on the right before you reach the tower. Entrees 100-200Kč. M-F 10am-11pm, Sa-Su 11am-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access.
• Café Rybka, Opatovická 7, 110 00 Praha 1 (☎22 493 1265; rybkapub.cz), Antique typewriters hang on book-lined walls in this smoky cafe where cheap beer, espresso, and cigarettes flow freely. You'll have to fight Czech hipsters enjoying toasts with toppings like ham and cheese (25Kč) or pickled Camembert (45Kč) for table space. Things can get pretty rowdy at this wee cafe, so don't come here expecting peaceful reading space. B: Národní třída. From the station, walk south on Spálená, turning right towards the the river down Purkyňova, and continuing down as it turns into Ostrovní. Take a left at Opatovická and follow it around the curve (it remains Opatovická). Coffee 28-40Kč. Beer 20-35Kč. Food 20-60Kč. Open daily 9:15am-10:15pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has internet.
• Pod křídlem noci, Národní 10, 110 00 Praha 1 (☎22 495 1741; www.podkridlemnoci.cz), Dine under enormous portraits of rich people having a good time at a joint straight out of a 1970s space movie. Main courses like chicken schnitzel with cucumber salad (129Kč) are Czech with a modern spin, though that mostly just means fancier plates and smaller portions. Lunch specials like Hungarian goulash or chicken lasagna are well-priced (90Kč), but you'll have to ask for a translation. Find an excuse to go to the bathroom, like having to go to the bathroom, for the full futuristic experience, or just get a drink from their hanging bar, suspended over the restaurant with a mess of wire. Desserts are incredible here, like chocolate cake with apricot puree (59Kč). B: Národní třída. From the station, walk north on Spálená and then turn left on Národní towards the river. Take the third left, Voršilská, and the restaurant will be on your left (despite its Národní street address). Entrees 129-245Kč. M-W 11am-4pm, Th-F 11am-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has air conditioning.
• Restaurace U Zpěváčků, Na struze 1740/7, 110 00 Praha 1 (☎22 493 0493; www.restauraceuzpevacku.com), Imagine a fried mozerella stick armed with the strength of 20 mozzarella sticks. That would almost be as good as this Czech-Itallian cookery's fried cheese (62Kč), which is probably the best in Nové Město. In addition to serving beer in liters (50-62Kč), this eatery earns points with more than 20 types of hearty, no-frills pasta (90-135Kč). Also has all the Czech favorites, even grub like Pork Grimm (164Kč) made with baked apples and raisins, or the spicier Chili Goulash served with Italian pepperoni. Top it off with some Italian wine in their well-lit spacious dining room. B: Národní třída. Head towards the river down Purkyňova, continuing as it turns into Ostrovní. Turn left onto Pštrossova then take the first slight right. The restaurant will be on your right. Entrees 80-250Kč. Beer 19-62Kč. Open daily 8am-2pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• U Matějíčků, Náplavni 5, 120 00 Praha 2 (☎22 491 7136), U Matějíčků does solid Czech favorites very right. Start off with the comically enormous “Big Board full of Goodies” (229Kč), which is an all-star sampling of Czech beer pairings: spicy sausage, smoked pork neck, Hermelin and Edam cheeses, Olomoucke Tvaruzky, hot peppers and pickled onions. Enjoy main dishes (90-229Kč), like old bohemian roast duck or Czech cheese wrapped in English bacon and fried in beer dough, in the dining room decorated to look like the Czech countryside. For the truly brave, try their homemade “Devils' sauce” (20Kč) and wash it down with some dirt cheap wine (18Kč). B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head towards the Resslova. Take 2nd right (Dittrichova) and the restaurant will be on your left at the fork. Entrees 90-229Kč. Beer 34-40Kč. Open daily 11am-10pm. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
• Café Céleste, Rasinovo Nabrezi 80, Prague 2 (☎22 198 4160; www.celesterestaurant.cz), Great food and a better view if you've got the green for it. Lunch comes in two or three courses M-F (450/550 Kč) and dinner means exotic dishes prepared exotically. If you don't believe us, try the Moravian suckling pig with black pudding and jus with rasberries (555Kč), fresh crab meat in a seaweed jelly lagoon (405Kč), or rhubarb clafouti with jelly and dark beer milkshake (205Kč). If you just want a peek from the terrace without busting your bank, visit M-F 4-6pm when Céleste opens its roof to mere mortals who order a cocktail (100-150Kč). B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, walk down Resslova toward the river. The building is on your left. Lounge is on street level. Restaurant is through the elevator in the lounge. 500-1000 Kč Bar open M-Sa 9am-midnight. Kitchen open noon-2:30pm and 6:30-10:30pm Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
• Jáma (The Hollow), V Jame 7, 110 00 Praha 1 (☎22 422 2383; www.jamapub.cz), Positioning itself on an American outpost in the badlands of Prague, Jáma has actually very little to offer. Sure, it's probably got one of the biggest Mexican menus in Prague, with items like jalepenos stuffed with cheddar (95Kč) and meat-stuffed tortillas with veggies and sour cream (95Kč), but these unfortunately resemble meat-stuffed tortillas more than they do actual fajitas. Obnoxious posters from American pop culture won't let you forget what cuisine is nonplussing you. Czech lunch specials like fried mushrooms (85Kč) are satisfying but a little on the meager side. Better to wait until evening and try to get lucky with English-speaking men and women at the bar, or come early for their impressively massive, delicious brunch. A and C: Muzeum. From the station, walk down Vaclavste Namesti and then turn left on Stepanska and then a right on V jámě; Jáma will be on your right. Entrees 100-200Kč. Beer 34-44Kč. Open daily 11am-1am. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning.
• Jídelna, Na Slupi 5, 120 00 Praha 2 If you're on a quest to find excellent Chinese food in Prague, you should cut your losses and go find the Holy Grail. Instead, here's the grungiest, cheapest, most perfectly bad Chinese food in the city. No one here speaks English, so bone up on your pointing skills before you come. An English menu is available, simplifying the process considerably. Large portions of Chicken Kung Pao are almost comically cheap (49Kč), which is also the rule for oddly-named-but-vaguely-familiar dishes like Piquant Pork (51Kč) and gems like chicken chest in dough (59Kč). B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, follow Vyšehradská south until it becomes Na Slupio. Follow Na slupio about 1 block. The restaurant will be on your right. Entrees 35-75Kč. Beer 16-19Kč. Open M-F 10am-9pm, Sa-Su 11-7pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Restaurace Stará Doba, Gorazdoba 22 (☎224 922 511; www.staradoba.cz), B: Karlovo náměstí. From Karlovo náměstí, turn left on Resslova and then left again on Gorazdoba, the street directly behind the Dancing House. Melted candles line the entry and an honest-to-God beaver pelt awaits you at the bottom of the spiral stairs. Unabashedly kitschy in the best way with delicious food. Make sure you ask for the English menu so you can appreciate gems like the “Highlander’s well-earned meal” (stuffed chicken breast with spinach and basil sauce; 150Kč) and the suspiciously named “Yeomanly blow-out” (stuffed steak with pepper sauce; 240Kč). Open M-F 11am-11pm, Sa 5:30-11pm
• Pizzeria di Carlo, Karlovo náměstí 30 (☎222 231 374; www.dicarlo.cz), B: Karlovo námĕstí. From the metro station, walk to the other side of the park and turn left on Karlovo náměstí. Head through the arcade and down the stairs. A local favorite with a relaxed atmosphere and reasonably priced pizza and pasta. The tasteful decor, complete with black-and-white portraits of nondescript relatives, will make you feel like you’re back in old country. Their 30 varieties of pizza (99-155Kč) and numerous pasta entrees include some unusual offerings like the tasty Riccardo III (smoked cheese, turkey, salami, and barbecue sauce; 135Kč). Outdoor seating available. Entrees 135-195Kč. Open M-F 11am-10:30pm, Sa-Su 11:30am-10:30pm
• Švejk Restaurant U Karla, Křemencova 7 (☎222 515 889; www.svejk-restaurant.cz), B: Karlovo námĕstí. From the metro station, walk north on Karlovo námĕstí, take a left at Myslíkova and then a right on Křemencova; the restaurant will be on your left. Just a few doors down from U Fleků but without the glut of tourists. Authentic Czech pub fare at reasonable prices, if you don’t mind the portraits of the good soldier and his comrades which adorn the windows, chairs, and plates. Goulash (49Kč) comes in a delicious bread bowl. Free Wi-Fi. Appetizers 50-85Kč. Entrees 100-265Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm
• Kavárna Velryba, Opatovická 24 B: Národní třída. From the metro station, walk down Ostrovní and then make a left on Opatovická; Velryba is on the left. A low-key Czech-Italian restaurant that has managed to resist tourist infiltration. Something of a haven for local artists—renowned Czech director Jan Svĕrak even celebrated his Oscar win here. The enticing Captain Ahab (pork with balkan cheese; 122Kč) continues the nautical theme even as a more terrestrial dish. Entrees 88-155Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight
• Ultramarin, Ostrovní 32 (☎224 932 249; www.ultramarin.cz), B: Národní třída. Czech yuppies dig a mix of American and Thai dishes in a super stylish and sleek setting, though it’s unclear if the “Elvis King Burger” (cheese, Irish bacon, onion jam, and mushrooms; 220Kč) is an ironic gesture or not. The Gurmán (dried fig salami and honey walnuts with blue cheese, brie, and goat cheese; 220Kč) is also appetizing. On Sa nights live jazz and the dual bars keep everyone well-liquored and groovy. Salads 100-198Kč. Entrees 188-290Kč. Open daily 10am-11pm
• Trilobit, Palackého 15 (☎224 946 065; www.restauracetrilobit.cz), A or B: Můstek. From the metro, walk up Václavsté námĕstí toward the National Museum, then turn left on Vodičkova and take the 1st right onto Palackého; Trilobit will be on your right. The trilobites and other Cambrian creatures on the stone basement walls give Trilobit the feel of an upscale fossil bed. The menu features many typical Czech entrees, including roast duck with cherry sauce (179Kč), as well as a few items under the colorful heading “Good things on a skewer” (169-259Kč). Reasonably classy, yet far enough away from Wenceslaus Sq. to be largely tourist-free. Appetizers 75-99Kč. Pasta 129-149Kč. Entrees 159-339Kč. Open M-Sa 11am-midnight, Su noon-11pm
• Pizza Coloseum, Vodičkova 32 (☎224 214 914; www.pizzacoloseum.cz), A or B: Můstek. From the metro, walk up Václavsté námĕstí toward the National Museum, then turn left on Vodičkova. Take a left in the arcade and the restaurant is down the stairs on your right. Fancier than most of Prague’s Italian places, in a dimly lit, cellar-like atmosphere. The replica statues of Venus de Milo and others might make you think you’re in the basement of a Roman antiquities pillager. If the standard pizza offerings (125-196Kč) don’t do it for you, check out the butterfish and salmon (300Kč) or the gnocchi d’agnello arrosto (259Kč). Pasta 111-199Kč. Entrees 189-389Kč. Open M-Sa 11:30am-11:30pm, Su noon-11:30pm
• U Fleků, Křemencova 11 (☎224 934 805; www.ufleku.cz), B: Karlovo námĕstí. From the metro station, walk north on Karlovo námĕstí, take a left at Myslíkova and then a right on Křemencova; the restaurant is on your left. Perhaps the oldest and most (in)famous beer hall in Prague (its sign claims 1499 as its opening); now one of the most tourist-ridden. The sprawling interior houses a restaurant, bar, microbrewery, and beer museum (admission 50Kč). The menu consists mostly of “traditional” Czech fare, though you’ll rarely see a Czech eating here. Expect to be serenaded by accordion and tuba at all hours of the day. Salads 59-149Kč. Entrees 189-369Kč. Cabaret shows nightly 8-9:45pm, 100Kč per person. Wheelchair-accessible. Open M-W and Su 10am-11pm, Th-Sa 10am-midnight. Reserve ahead for evenings and weekends, when massive groups of American, British, German, and Italian tourists descend
• Ultramarin Grill, Ostrovní 32 (☎224 932 249; www.ultramarin.cz), Metro B: Národní třída. Classy decor without the prices to match. Young professionals feast on American dishes as well as Thai-inspired steak, duck, and lamb entrees 180-450Kč. Salads 100-198Kč. Open daily 10am-11pm
• Velryba (The Whale), Opatovická 24. Metro B: Národní třída. Relaxed Italian/Czech restaurant with gallery downstairs. The fish scales here will have you feeling like Jonah. Entrees 77-155Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight
• PopoCafePetl Bar Cafe/Bar, Italská 18 (☎777 944 672; www.popocafepetl.cz), A: Národní Muzeum, B: Náměstí Míru. From the National Museum, follow Vinohradská; the cafe will be on your right. A low-key cafe and bar where Prague’s spiky-haired youth can enjoy reasonably priced bagels and 21 varieties of personal pizza (75Kč) in a setting best described as rusty-basement-chic. The low lighting and techno soundtrack make kids feel cool. Desserts include an array of chocolatey drinks (45Kč). Open M-F 1pm-2am, Sa-Su 4pm-2am
• Dobra Cajorvna, Václavské Náměstí 14 (☎224 231 480; www.tea.cz/cajovna), A or B: Můstek. From the metro, walk up Václavsté námĕstí toward the National Museum; the teahouse will be through the arcade on your right. Sip gourmet (read: expensive) teas (78-148Kč) from all over the world, in this strikingly Zen atmosphere. If your feet aren’t too rank from days of traveling, take off your shoes and enjoy your tea in the lotus position in one of the cushioned alcoves with your new patchouli-scented friends. Wheelchair-accessible. Open M-F 10am-9:30pm, Sa-Su 2-9:30pm
• Café Jericho, Opatovická 26 B: Národní třída. From the metro station, walk down Ostrovní and then make a left on Opatovická; Jericho is on the left, next to Velryba. Just like your favorite hole-in-the-wall coffeeshop back home, except it serves hard liquor and everyone speaks Czech. Students and other young people write sensitive things in their notebooks while enjoying reasonably priced panini (50-55Kč). Coffee 45Kč. Tea 28Kč. Beer 27Kč. Wheelchair-accessible. Open M-F 10am-10pm, Sa-Su noon-10pm