Prague (Praha) Staré Město And Josefov

• Grand Cafe Orient, Ocovný trh 19 (☎224 224 240; www.grandcafeorient.cz), In 1912, the Czech architect Gočar built the only ever “Cubist cafe” on the second story of the Lady of Black Madonna, the most famous “Cubist building” ever constructed. But at that time, Cubism was a fleeting trend and the cafe closed after just eight short years. After more than 80 years, the cafe was recently reopened with all of the original “Cubist” fixtures. A series of jarring angular lamp posts line the ceiling, and the little terrace out in the front is one of the cutest in the world. One doesn't expect great food out of a place like this, but that's where this little maverick surprises. The food, especially the galettes, savory crepes, are incredible. The spinach, ham, bacon, and cheese galette is the best experience you'll ever have with spinach—that's a promise. B: Náměstí Republiky. From the station, head south to U Prašná Brány and follow it as it becomes Celetná. The cafe is on the left at the fork. The cafe is on the 2nd fl., through the museum entrance. Galletes 95-135Kč. Coffee 40-60Kč, Desserts 25-60Kč. Open M-F 9am-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-10pm. Wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol.
• Apetit, Dlouhá 23 (☎222 329 853; www.apetitpraha.cz), Slum it like a real Praguer at this local cafeteria chain that might serve up the cheapest grub in Stare Město. Grab a tray, some silverware and select from one of several daily Czech entrees ranging from schnitzel to fried cheese to goulash (67-78Kč). Individual entrees become a dinner with a choice of potatoes, dumplings, or vegetables, and a drink for just a few cents more (89-92Kč). These cafeteria workers are no different from those you remember from grade school—very strict; they've even been known to shush policemen! C: Republicky Náměstí. From the station, head north up Revoluční and turn left on Dlouhá. Entrees 89-92Kč. Open M-F 9am-8pm. Sa-Su 10am-8pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Kavárna Obecní Dům, Republicky Náměstí 5 (☎222 002 763), The price of a coffee and dessert (30-90Kč) or a light sandwich (120Kč) is worth 40 minutes resting under the eight hulking chandeliers in this Art Nouveau masterwork. Each detail, from the design of the chairs, to the Alfons Mucha decorated menus, has been specifically chosen to fit the era, and the fountain at the side of the dining room was built specifically for the cafe by the Czech master Josef Pekárek. So sit back, relax, have an oddly affordable breakfast (90Kč). C: Republicky Náměstí. Separate from restaurant across the hall. Breakfasts 90-200Kč. Coffee 58-79Kč. Entrees 120-470Kč. Open daily 7:30am-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Lokal, Dlouhá 33 (☎222 316 265; www.ambi.cz), Lokal brims with secrets. Take the serving area: it's not just the wee cafe in front; the left side corridor stretches an entire city block. Or take its beer: it comes from a spout, but it's not on tap. Rather, it's “on tank,” a new system whereby beer skips pasteurization, proceeding directly from fermentation to your mouth, going down more smoothly with less of a bitter taste than traditional pasteurized beer. Try “the world's most tender beef with whipped cream and cranberry sauce” (115Kč) or the pork shoulder with spinach (95Kč). For more surprises, check the daily menu that changes, well, daily. You might want to call ahead, as Lokal is packed with locals during peak hours. C: Republicky Náměstí. From the station, head north up Revoluční and turn left on Dlouhá. Entrees 99-242Kč. Beer 29-38Kč. Open M-F 11am-1am, Sa noon-1am, Su noon-10pm. Kitchen closes daily at 9:45pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Lehká Hlava, Boršov 2 (☎222 220 665; www.lehkahlava.cz), This cozy vegetarian joint whose name means “Clear Mind” hides on a small, quiet street. But that's the genius of the place—its entire experience rests on relaxing its patrons, from the lightly glowing tables to the fish tank to the earthy, “paper bag” menus. And unlike most vegetarian joints whose portions are sized more for hipster toddlers than for hungry human beings, Clear Mind delivers actual quantities of food. The eggplant quesadilla (145Kč), though blasphemous by Mexican standards, has sharp, crisp flavors and loads up on the cheese. The polenta gnocchi in sheep's milk (175Kč) takes you outside your comfort zone while comfortably filling you up. For dessert, the millet-based carrot cake is a slice of healthy heaven dipped in chocolate (70Kč). At your meal's end, if you need a little “pep,” try Brazilian Guaron juice, with triple the caffeine of coffee (45-75Kč). Also, if you're a monk, ordain A: Staroměstského. From the station, head towards the river then south on Křižovnické. Continue as it becomes Smetanovo nábřeží, then make a quick left fork onto Karoliny Světlé. Continue down, them make a left onto Boršov (it's a tiny street). Reservations recommended. Entrees 90-185Kč. Open M-F 11:30am-11:30pm, Sa-Su noon-11:30pm. Between 3:30-5pm, only drinks, cold starters, and desserts available. Brunch served 1st Su of the month 10:30am-2pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Bohemia Bagel, Masná 2 (☎224 812 560; www.bohemiabagel.cz), Though it's become something of an institution, Bohemia Bagel still delivers solid breakfast and lunch options at bargain prices. If you've got a youngster, unleash him or her in the playpen while you enjoy bottomless filter coffee (49Kč) or a bagel sandwich (60-90Kč). If a plump burger (125-150Kč) or American-style sandwich (95-135Kč) can't convince you, then maybe you'll be pleased with the ice-cream chipwich (80Kč). Incredible breakfast special of any egg sandwich served with bottomless soft drink, tea or coffee (89Kč) offered M-F before noon. A: Staroměstského. From the station, take Kaprova away from the river and through Old Town Square. Stick to the left as you cross the square, and take Dlouhá on the opposite side. At the roundabout, take a right on Masná 2. Internet 1Kč per min. Bagels 30-50 Kč. Open daily 8am-11pm. Does not take credit cards. Has internet. Serves alcohol.
• Klub Architektů, Betlémské náměstí 169/5A (☎224 248 878; www.klubarchitektu.com), Surprisingly sophisticated and reasonably cheap for Old Town, this little place makes good grounds for a classy evening. Low-vaulted ceilings and the lowest hanging lamps you've ever seen (ask and they'll raise them up for you) will make you feel out of place in shorts or flip flops, but nobody will tell you you can't be there. Don't stop by if you're in a hurry; the fractured and separated serving areas means you can go 10 minutes at a time without seeing heads or tails of a waiter. Food is Czech chic, but if you're not here mostly for the ambience, you'll be disappointed. B: Národní třída. From the station, head north on Spálená continuing as it turns into Na Perštýně. When it forks, take the left fork. Restaurant is down a somewhat unmarked staircase through a courtyard on your left. Entrees 130-280Kč. Desserts 80-105Kč. Open daily 11:30am-midnight. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• La Casa Blu, Kozi 15 (☎221 818 270; www.lacasablu.cz), A favorite among locals, La Casa Blu provides a meeting place for Latin culture in this city so often lacking thereof; the walls serve as gallery space and Latin musical artists regularly perform. Though it's hidden down a sketchball alley, the scene inside this casa is bright and happening as locals sip cervezas in this smoke-free environment. Suprisingly big for the small cafe vibe it maintains, the food here is not to be underestimated, with dishes like Prague's only non-embarrassing selection of nachos (100-200Kč) and loaded quesadillas (128-148Kč). La Casa Blu also stays hip late with tequila (69-139Kč). C: Republicky Náměstí. From the station, head north up Revoluční and turn left on Dlouhá. At the roundabout, take a right on Kozí. Entrees 150-290Kč. M-F 10am-late, Sa 11am-late, Su 2pm-late. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• U Rudolfina, Křížovnická 10 (☎222 328 758), You might have a bit of a struggle ordering here, but you've gotta give up something to eat at the cheapest, most authentic pun in Old Town. This locals-only favorite seems small on the first floor, but opens up downstairs to an impressively large restaurant, with antique photos and street lamps selling the 1930s effect. Staff speaks a wee bit of English, which should be enough to land you a polévky (soup; 22Kč) or a plate of guláš (goulash; 98Kč). Even more elaborate dishes like uzené koleno (smoked pork neck; 149Kč) or pečené koleno (sliced roast pork knee; 199Kč) are incredible deals. A: Staroměstského. From the station, head towards the river then south on Křižovnické. Entrees 65-199Kč. Beer 18-35Kč. Open daily 10:30am-11pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Zahrádka U Kristiána, Smetanovo Nábřeží 6 The cheapest riverside dining in the city hides at this bare-bones assemblage of picnic tables and grills. The cafe has a well-stocked bar, but food is limited to what you could make in your backyard: sausages (65Kč), potatoes (50Kč), and steaks (200Kč). Weekends sometimes see live acoustic musicians. A: Staroměstského. From the station, head towards the river then south on Křižovnické. Continue as it becomes Smetanovo nábřeží. The cafe will be on your right down some stairs. Entrees 65-200Kč. Beer 25-45Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight, weather permitting. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Kavárna Náprstkova, Náprstkova 272/10 (☎775 755 142), Hip locals gather here under enormous murals of Vaclav Havel to chat, smoke, and have a light meal. Even though this cafe has solid food, like quesadillas (95Kč) and an array of well-priced sandwiches (35-42Kč), it's better to come here for dessert (14-49Kč) and coffee (39Kč). It's usually pretty tourist-free despite its proximity to Old Town. A: Staroměstského. From the station, head towards the river then south on Křižovnické. Continue as it becomes Smetanovo nábřeží. At the Bellevue restaurant, take a left down the stairs and continue straight ahead onto Náprstkova. The cafe will be on your left. Coffee 39Kč. Breakfast 85Kč. Open M-F 9am-1am. Sa-Su noon-1am. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol.
• Choco Cafe, Liliová 4/250 (☎222 222 519; www.choco-cafe.cz), Let's Go highly reccommends a series of fantastic desserts in Choco Cafe's case. The tiramisu (80Kč) comes in loaf form and will make your stomach smile. The various hot chocolates might be a little overpriced (59-95Kč), but the espresso (35Kč) is actually more of a bargain than you'll find elsewhere in Old Town, especially coming from Choco's ravishing waitresses. A: Staroměstského. From the station, head towards the river then south on Křižovnické. At the bridge, head away from the river down Karlovo and take a left at Liliová. The cafe will be on your left. Toasts 85-93Kč. Desserts 50-100Kč. Open M-F 9am-8pm Sa-Su 10am-8pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Haštalksý dědek, Haštalksá 20 (☎224 827 196; www.hastalskydedek.cz), An uber-traditional Czech pub fantastically lodged in Old Town, this little joint lets you eat at Nové Město prices while grunting with a Stare Město crowd. The food is great, and at times, unreasonably cheap. A 400g steak of pork neck goes for a paltry 179Kč, while Grandpa's Sour Soup in a bread loaf does just 69Kč of damage. The delightful Old Man's goulash with horseradish (129Kč) comes in a pot with potato pancakes. Quiet, wooden interior makes for a good place to relax. C: Republicky náměstí. From the station, head north up Revoluční and turn left on Dlouhá. Take a right at Rybá and then another quick right onto Haštalksá. The pub will be on your right. Entrees 50-200Kč. Beer 16-40Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol.
• La Veranda, Elišky Krásnohorské 2/10 (☎224 814 733; laveranda.cz), While its pastel, flowery decor might make La Veranda appear a place for old, lunching ladies, the ingredients used are just as applicable to any man. The tagliolini with tiger prawns and sun-dried tomatoes will surprise both your tongue and your wallet (295Kč). Tram 17: Právnická fakulta. Soup 145Kč. Pasta 225-295Kč. Entrees 430-495Kč. Open M-Sa noon-11:30pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning.
• La Bodeguita Del Medio, Kaprova 19/5 (☎224 813 922), It's always a party at this Cuban restaurant where Latin music flows almost as freely as the mojitos. While there are a few vegetarian options (gorgonzola cheese and raspberry salad 180Kč), this is the place to go for beef with beef. Don't leave without trying the Mojo—grilled beef fillet served with Cuban baked potatoes (485Kč). While most of the meatier entrees are a little pricey, it's certainly possible to keep within budget with an equally hearty appetizer paired with a delicious soup (85Kč). A: Staroměstská. About 25m east on Kaprova from the Metro. Latin music and dancing most nights. Salads 155-190Kč. Entrees 98-485Kč. Open daily 9am-2am. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Pepe Nero, Bílkova 132/4 (☎222 315 543), Award-winning pizza is served up in this cheery pink building. Anything from a quick bite like focaccia bread (60Kč) to something more serious, like seafood pizza (290Kč) is catered to you on red-and-white checkered tablecloths. Pair this classic Italian dish with a classic Czech drink: beer (from 29Kč), the country's old school. Tram 17: Právnická fakulta. Pizza 180-290Kč. Open daily noon-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
• Pivnice U Pivrnce, Maiselova 60/3 (☎222 329 404), This restaurant serves up classic Czech cuisine in a cellar whose walls boast sexual cartoons, spicing up the otherwise bland food of the Bohemians. While the dumplings might not be the best in town, you can always opt for random odds-and-ends like gnocchi with spinach and cheese (130Kč). A: Staroměstská. 2 blocks from the Metro on Kaprova. Soups 35Kč. Entrees 115-490Kč. Salads 60-150Kč. Open daily 11am-9:30pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning.
• Pizzerie Modrá Zahrada, Pařížská 14 (☎222 253 829), Delicious pizza served up by enthusiastic faux-Italian waiters in a no-frills setting. One of the better pizza deals around because, unlike around the Old Town, “mushroom pizza” means more than four mushrooms and you don't have to go searching for cheese with a magnifying glass. A: Staroměstská. On the corner of Pařížská and Široká. Pizza from 114Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
• Švejk, Široká 20 (☎224 813 964), Scrumptious Czech fare with an historically weighty name: Švejk, or Sweik, is a character in Jaroslav Hašek's famous satire from the earliest 20th century, Good Soldier Švejk. While the food might struggle to keep up with the namesake, it's still a decent place to go for dinner after a day of Synagoguing about town. Tram 17: Právnická fakulta. Head down Pařížská 3 blocks. Entrees 98-440Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning.
• La Vita E Bella, Elišky Krásnohorské 12/5 (☎222 310 039; http://vitabella.cz), Fabulous Italian dishes in an equally fabulous setting. While the setting might appear posh, the price is relatively mild especially if you stick to one of the “first courses” or delicious desserts. Try the broccoli penne with chicken (280Kč). A: Staroměstská. Appetizers 220-310Kč. Seafood 330-650Kč. Entrees 350-590Kč. Open daily 11:30am-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
• Les Moules, Pařížská 203/19 (☎222 315 022; www.lesmoules.cz), Enjoy buckets of mussels on the sunny terrace as you shield your shirt with a red checkered bib. This place is definitely the place to go if you're into mussels, but for the less adventurous, try “snails au gratin” (295Kč). If you're sick of mussels straight-up, add a twist with dark Leffe beer, white wine, or get them “Thai style.” Tram 17: Právnická fakulta. Don't be afraid to get a little dirty. Mussels 295Kč per kg. Open daily 11am-midnight. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
• Kozička, Kozí 1 (☎224 818 308; www.kozicka.cz), B: Náměstí Republiky. From the metro, walk north on Revoluční and then make a left on Dlouhá; follow it down to the sq. and then make a hard right onto Kozí. A relaxed Old Town cellar. Enjoy your meal while pretending not to notice the dozens of metal goats hanging menacingly from the walls and ceiling. For a mere 750Kč you can take a small version of the critters home as a memorable trinket. The chicken entrees, especially “Lilla” (chicken with tomato and mozzarella; 160Kč), are delicious. Entrees 120-350Kč. Open M-F noon-4am, Sa 6pm-4am, Su 6pm-3am
• Beas, Týnská 19 (☎608 035 727; www.beas-dhaba.cz), B: Náměstí Republiky. Follow Týnská away from Old Town Square; the restaurant is located in the same courtyard as Hostel Týn (p.156). Reasonably priced meals of rice, curry, paneer, and lentils in varying combinations. Lacks the overbearing nature or exorbitant prices of some health food stores. Plates 88-133Kč. Fresh juices 36Kč. Open M-Sa 11am-8pm, Su noon-6pm
• Yami Restaurant, Masná 3 B: Náměstí Republiky. From the metro, walk north on Revoluční and then make a left on Dlouhá; follow it down to the sq. and then make a hard left onto Masná. Japanese and Korean dishes in a sleek, relaxed dining room. A crowd devours Yami’s fusion rolls (215-318Kč per 8 pieces), including the festive Mardi Gras roll (272Kč) and the deep-fried Seoul-to-Soul roll (268Kč). Sushi 60-90Kč. Entrees 238-332Kč. Open daily noon-11pm
• Pivnice U Kata (The Executioner’s Alehouse), U radnice 6 A: Staroměstská. From the metro, take Kaprova east and then turn right at U radnice. A traditional Czech pub founded in the 17th century when the local executioner and his friends needed a place to go after a hard day’s work. The walls are adorned with wicked-looking axes that not-so-subtly encourage you to behave as you tip back your Pilsner (35Kč). Smoked salted herring 50Kč. Devil’s sausages 45Kč. Entrees 125-160Kč. Open M-Sa noon-12:30am, Su noon-11pm
• Siam Thai Orchid, Na poříčí 21 (☎222 319 410‎; www.siamorchid.cz), B: Náměstí Republiky. From the metro stop, take Na poříčí past the Palladium and up another block; the restaurant is on the left, through the arcade and up the stairs. A real Thai place run by real Thai people. Diners enjoy traditional dishes while surrounded by hanging plants and bamboo. Phad Thai Kai (180Kč) comes served in delicious piles. Rice dishes 135-185Kč. Entrees 175-200Kč. Open daily 10am-10pm
• Ariana, Rámová 6 (☎222 323 438; kabulrest.sweb.cz), B: Náměstí Republiky. From the metro, walk north on Revoluční and then make a left on Dlouhá; follow the street down to the square and then make a right onto Rámová. Upscale Afghan restaurant with a romantic atmosphere and enough tapestries and tassels to open an oriental rug store if the restaurant venture fails. English-speaking tourists who would like to think they’re getting away from other English-speaking tourists opt for the qorma chalaou (meat and vegetables with white rice and mild curry; 179Kč) or one of the many kebabs (129-189Kč). Open daily 11am-11pm
• Hybernia Restaurant & Café, Hybernská 7 (☎224 226 004‎; www.hybernia.cz), B: Náměstí Republiky. From the metro, take Náměstí Republiky south and then make a right onto Hybernská; the restaurant will be on your left. A high-end cafe frequented by area professionals. The downstairs area features small tables and a curved stone ceiling. The salmon tagliata (145Kč) is a house specialty, though the real innovations are served Su, when you can customize your own schnitzel (200Kč) from a ½-dozen meats, fillings, and wrappings. Salads 132-146Kč. Entrees 145-336Kč. Open M-F 8am-11:30pm, Sa-Su 10:30am-11:30pm
• Pizzeria Al Capone, Na poříčí 36 (☎224 819 007; alcapone.webnode.cz), B: Náměstí Republiky. From the metro, take Na poříčí past the Palladium and up another block; the restaurant is on your right. A reasonably priced Italian pizzeria and restaurant with a large salad selection (123-140Kč). The stone floors and ceiling in the basement evoke a 20s speakeasy. Pizzas 100-150Kč. Pasta 129-148Kč. Open M-F 11am-11pm, Sa-Su 11:30am-11pm
• Restaurace La Boca, Truhlářská 10 (☎222 312 073‎; www.laboca.cz), B: Náměstí Republiky. From the metro, take Truhlářská north; the restaurant is on the right. Between the slat wood overhang and the tapas selection (45-89Kč), you’ll feel like you’re in a Spanish courtyard where everyone happens to speak Czech. Highlights include grilled plum wrapped in bacon (56Kč) and octopus marinated in lime (78Kč). After a day of climbing the stairs to the tops of countless towers, the comfy pleather seats provide a welcome respite. Pasta 135-178Kč. Entrees 198-389Kč. Open M-F 10am-11pm, Sa-Su 11am-11pm. Reservations recommended
• Orange Moon, Rámová 5 (☎222 325 119; www.orangemoon.cz), B: Náměstí Republiky. From the metro, walk north on Revoluční, make a left on Dlouhá and then a right on Rámová. A mix of Indian, Thai, and Burmese cuisine in a comfortable setting decorated with effigies of generic south Asian deities. Dishes include chicken in every possible combination of rice and sauce, as well as an assortment of vegetarian dishes (120-175Kč). Stand-bys like vindaloo (210Kč) and pad thai (190Kč) keep the menu tourist-friendly. Appetizers 60-165Kč. Entrees 175-365Kč. Open daily 11:30am-11:30pm
• Cafe Bambus, Benediktská 12 (☎224 828 110; www.cafebambus.com), B: Náměstí Republiky. From the metro, walk north on Revoluční and then make a left on Benediktská. Serves a culinary hodgepodge of Thai and Indian dishes (80-150Kč). The real specialties, however, are the Czech palančinky (crepes; 50-95Kč), which range from the basic Nutella crepe to the decadent macadamia, vanilla ice cream, and chocolate sauce variety. Pasta 95-155K. Beer from 48Kč. Open M-F 9am-2am, Sa 11am-2am, Su 11am-midnight
• Soul of the City, Dušní 9 (☎222 315 852; www.soulofthecity.eu), A: Staroměstská. From the metro, take Široká and then turn left on Dušní at the Franz Kafka statue. Entrees are too expensive to bother with (225-420Kč), but many of the pasta dishes and skewers, particularly the Gala skewer (vegetables, pork, chicken, bacon, and cheese; 190Kč) will do just fine. Soups 20-35Kč. Pasta 165-200Kč. Open M-W 11am-midnight, Th-F 11am-1am, Sa 11:30am-1am, Su 11:30am-midnight
• Restaurace Haštalský dědek, Haštalská 20 (☎224 827 196; www.hastalskydedek.cz), B: Náměstí Republiky. From the metro, walk north on Revoluční, make a left on Dlouhá, then a right on Rybná, and finally a right on Haštalská. A standard Czech pub that prides itself on having the cheapest beer around (16Kč). Finding a seat on even a reasonably busy day can be a challenge, as half of the tables in the restaurant are reserved for various groups of older locals who’ve made the place something of a second home. Menu highlights include Old Man’s sausage (169Kč) and the Burning Devil skewer (159Kč). Appetizers 45-59Kč. Pasta 129-139Kč. Entrees 109-129Kč. Open M-F 9am-11pm, Sa-Su 11am-11pm
• Maitrea, Týnská ulička 6 (☎221 711 631; www.restaurace-maitrea.cz), B: Náměstí Republiky. Vegetarian grub served beside walls covered in Sanskrit. Small, simple menu includes hummus made with pumpkin oil (60Kč) and the small-ish Mexican burrito (140Kč). Salads 60Kč. Entrees 105Kč. Wheelchair-accessible. Open daily 11am-9pm

• Cafes

NoD Cafe and Art Gallery, Dlouhá 33 (☎ 736 152 015; www.roxy.cz), B: Náměstí Republiky. From the metro, walk north on Revoluční and then make a left on Dlouhá. This self-described “experimental ...more