Prague (Praha) Malá Strana

• Bar Bar, Všehrdova 17 (☎257 312 246; www.bar-bar.cz), Discovering Bar Bar anywhere would be an accomplishment, with its saturation of local flavor, infusion of exotic influences, and balance of excitement and hominess. However, this gem hides just off the main street in touristy Malá Strana. The pub's dishes resemble Mom's home cooking. If the thought of Mom's home cooking is too traumatizing, you can cook your own food on a stone grill (490Kč). Be warned: this vegetarian-friendly cellar restaurant is becoming more popular; come on the early side, because they don't accept reservations. A: Malostranská. From the station, take the tram to Újezd, walk north on Újezd, then turn right on Všehrdova. Entrees 139-325Kč. Tapas 175Kč. Beer 23-49Kč. Mixed drinks 90-160Kč. Open Su-Th noon-midnight, F-Sa noon-2am. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol.
• Restaurant Sovovy Mlýny, U Sovových Mlýnů 503/2 (☎257 220 121; www.restauracemlyny.cz), If you make it here by 4pm, you're in for an unforgettable treat—a classy, riverside feast for the price of a non-feast thanks to Sovovy Mlýny's ultra cheap “daily menu.” Specials like beef over mushrooms and potato gnocchi (124Kč) change daily, but are always delicious and filling. To keep things even cheaper, come for the daily dessert menu (20-85Kč) for traditional Czech sweets like cottage cake (75Kč) or apple strudel (60Kč). But be warned, after 4pm this place comes to its senses and starts charging what it ought to. Sculptures from the attached modern art museum, like the enormous row of plastic yellow penguins, are great conversation pieces. A: Malostranská. From the station, head south past the Charles Bridge, sticking to the side of the river. When you reach the park, the restaurant will be in the middle, right long the water, behind the freaky baby statues and the art museum. Daily menu 100-150Kč. Entrees 255-455Kč. Open daily 10am-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Dobřá Trafika, Újezd 37/400 (☎257 320 188; www.dobratrafika.cz), An excellent little cafe and wine bar popular with artists, musicians, and other tea-drinking types. Speaking of tea, this place has a four-page menu dedicated to it, and—the rarest sight in all of Prague—a selection of different coffees. Food pickings might be a little meager, but who can complain when there are seven different types of mead (20Kč). A: Malostranská. From the station, take the tram to Újezd, walk north on Újezd. Cafe is through the specialty store in front. Pitas 13-50Kč. Coffee 30-50Kč. Open M-F 7:30am-11pm, Sa-Su 9am-11pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Restaurace Tlustá Myš, Všehrdova 19, 118 00 Praha 1 (☎605 282 506; www.tlustamys.cz), Tulstá Myš, “Fat Mouse” directly next door to its neighbor, Bar Bar, has a similar vibe, similarly awesome food, and similarly great prices. Adorable “fat mice” dance around the menu. Grilled sausages (55Kč) are cheaper than a street vendor's, and the daily menu has terriffic international samplings, like Mexican beans with beef (99Kč). The cozy pub is also a great place to spend an evening sipping “Fire Water,” Czech liquors like Bechorovka, plum vodka and Fernet (20-40Kč). A: Malostranská. From the station, take the tram to Újezd, walk north on Újezd, and then turn right on Všehrdova. Entrees 99-150Kč. Soup 24Kč. Beer 20-34Kč. Wine 32Kč. Open M-F 11:30am-midnight, Sa noon-midnight, Su noon-10pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Pod Petřínem, Hellichova 5 (☎257 224 408; www.pivnicepodpetrinem.cz), This friendly, ultra-traditional Czech pub has just a few menu items: goulash (99), schnitzel (129Kč), and pork knee (139Kč) among them at medievally cheap prices. The older Czech crowd won't be speaking English, and won't even have an English menu for you, but the few staff members who speak English will happily translate. A: Malostranská. From the station, take the tram to Hellichova and walk south to Hellichova on your left. Entrees 99-140Kč. Beer 18-26Kč. Mixed drinks 40-95Kč. Open 11am-12:30am. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• U Malého Glena, Karmelitská 23 (☎257 531 717; www.malyglen.cz), Boasting solid servings of food, this little American bar (despite its Czech name) actually has quality American burgers (145-185Kč). The best news is the great Tex-Mex (95-150Kč) in huge portions. Also, this is probably the only place in town with chili cheese fries (150Kč). A: Malostranská. From the Metro, take the tram to Újezd, walk north on Újezd. Entrees 95-250Kč. Open M-Th 11am-2am, F-Su 11am-3am. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol.
• Kavárna Čas, Míšenská 92/2 (☎721 959 903), A delicious and cheap stop for a light lunch or dinner comprised entirely of snack food, the delights of this joint are all small, but magical. The snacks are made with recognizable ingredients, but are combined in a 100% foreign way. Toasted cheese sandwiches (45Kč) come with ketchup, and strudel pastries (40-65Kč) are filled with bologna, sausage, or cabbage. These magical bites won't fill you up, but they won't empty your wallet either. A: Malostranská. Go down Klárov toward the river, turn right on U. Luzické Semináré. Take a right when you get to Míšenská. Toasts 45Kč. Beer 23-30Kč. Espresso 25Kč. Open daily 10am-8pm. Does not take credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Cafe Bar Wigwam, Zborovská 54 (☎257 311 707; www.cafebarwigwam.cz), A meal at Wigwam will oscillate between Czech experiments, like the Pork Neck Burger (145Kč), American non-experiments, like the classic hamburger (145Kč), or dubious Asian dishes like Mat Suman Curry (170Kč). The nachos with blue cheese (95Kč) is enough to start any party, as long as it's a cheese party. A: Malostranská. From the station, take the tram to Újezd. Continue down Újezd, then take a left onto Petřínská and another left onto Zborovská Entrees 120-295Kč. Beer 20-35Kč. Open daily 11am-1am. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol.
• Artisan, Rošických 4 (☎257 218 277; www.artisanrestaurant.cz), This new upscale Italian joint offers an impressively cheap “Business Lunch” menu of either two or three courses. Though the entrees change constantly, examples of fare include salmon, hamburgers, pasta, and chicken (90-180Kč). The additional course can be either a dessert or a starter (soup or salad). The normal menu is pricier, but the penny-pinching traveler can grab an excellent cup of coffee (39Kč) on one of the most remote and relaxing patios in the city. A: Malostranská. From the station, take the tram to Újezd. Continue down jezd and take a right on Rošických, curving around until you find the restaurant. Entrees 170-425Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Cafe Kafíčke, Míšenská 10 (☎724 151 795), A quiet stop for expats and other locals smack in the middle of tourist town, Cafe Kafíčke also has the distinction of being the first “non-smoking” cafe in all of Prague, when the American couple running this establishment had a child. You never know who'll be stopping by, from famous Czech film directors, to musicians to actresses. This small cafe's customers include some big names; maybe that's why they also accept euro. A: Malostranská. Go down Klárov toward the river, turn right on U. Luzické Semináré. Take a right when you get to Míšenská. Espresso 38Kč. Sweets 12-52Kč. Open daily 10am-10pm. Does not take credit cards. No wheelchair access.
• Le Bastille, Újezd 426/26 (☎257 312 830; www.labastille.cz), Nothing about this restaurant wins prizes, but it's reasonably priced and not bad for Malá Strana. Meat dishes tend to tiptoe on the pricey side (255-355Kč) with the exception of that miracle meat, chicken (140-175Kč). Fantastic Spanish and French wines (54Kč) make up for food that occasionally lacks flavor. Expect to add 30-40Kč to any meat dish for dumplings, or some perfectly-prepared boiled potatoes. Vegetarians will find comfort in a large list of inexpensive pastas (129-139Kč) or ratatouille (139Kč). A: Malostranská. From the station, take the tram to Újezd. Entrees 120-355Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight. Takes credit cards. Serves alcohol. Has air conditioning. Has outdoor seating.
• Klášterní Pivovar a Restaurace Sv. Norbert, Strahovské nádvoří 301 (☎233 353 155; www.klasterni-pivovar.cz), Only come here if you need to dine on Petrin Hill. On a nice day, most of the restaurant moves outside to large wooden tables in the sun. But sneak inside for a peek at the large copper tanks ,which are daily employed to make one of the brewery's six original St. Norbert beers. The only downside of this brewery is that the beer costs twice what it would elsewhere—but then again, you technically can't get this beer elsewhere. While the menu can be pricey, there are some affordable choices, like pork schnitzel (160Kč) or roast rabbit (190Kč). Vegetarians can choose from fried cheese, mushrooms, or spinach potatoes (130-140Kč). While your nose will be getting a beer tour the entire length of your stay, you can ask to be taken on an actual 30min. tour of the brewery at no extra charge with a purchase. From Petřín Hill, take the paved asphalt road that leads away from the funicular station. Follow it along the left side of the Hunger Wall for about 10min. Tour is free with medium-sized purchase. Entrees 160-390Kč. Open daily 10am-10pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Le Bistrot Kampa, U Lužického semináře 23 (☎725 534 101; www.lebistrot.cz), Nicely-located and nicely-priced comparatively, the somewhat touristy Bistrot Kampa makes for a pleasant stop after a long day at the castle. The tuna monsieurs (65Kč) are made with real brioche and fill you up. The lasagna bolognese (105Kč), while somewhat unelegant, is incredibly tasty. Beer and sweets are overpriced (30-80Kč), so stick with the sandwiches. A: Malostranská. From the Metro, take an immediate right down U Lužického semináře. Entrees 65-200. Open daily 9am-8pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Švejk Restaurant - Malostranská Pivnice, Cihelná 3 (☎257 530 032; www.malostranskapivnice.cz), It's amazing what a difference context makes. On the other side of the river, this place would be a touristy, kitschy red flag to avoid, but over here in pricier Malá Strana, we can't be so picky, can we? Plus there are still some original experiences to be had. The pork knuckle (259Kč) feeds three people easily, but doesn't guarantee they won't all die from fat poisoning. The atmosphere, interrupted only by T-shirt and hat sales, is surprisingly more relaxed than other Švejk restaurants, and the clientele is almost exlcusively Czech locals. A: Malostranská. Go down Klárov toward the river. Entrees 139-400Kč. Open M-Sa 11am-1am. Su 11am-midnight. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.
• Pizzeria Felicita, Říční 5, Praha 1 (☎257 312 565; pizzeria.felicita.sweb.cz), Like many of its Malá Strana peers, Pizzeria Felicita doesn't knock you out of the water, but with 41 types of relatively cheap pizza (99-179Kč), the water's not so bad. Pizza style is completely European, so don't expect thick crust, dripping cheese or—one can dream—stuffed crust. Felicita also has a great selection of large salads (129-149Kč). Interior feels a little cavernous, but fine for a light meal. A: Malostranská. From the station, take the tram to Újezd, walk north on Újezd, and then turn right on Říční. Pizzas 99-179Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm. Takes credit cards. No wheelchair access. Serves alcohol.
• Stará Praha, Vítězná 11 (☎251 510 217), A forgettable, but adequate traditional Czech restaurant, Stará Praha has traditional Czech food at fair prices. You won't be finding any insane bargains, but the specialties, like minced beef in pita (139Kč) or grilled marinated pork neck (159Kč), please the crowd. Famished travelers can benefit from the “Bohemian Square meal” composed of pork neck, smoked meat, sausage, cabbage and dumplings (169Kč). A: Malostranská. From the station, take the tram to Újezd, then walk down Vítězná towards the river. Only the patio is wheelchair-accessible. Entrees 130-400Kč. Open daily 9am-11pm. Takes credit cards. Wheelchair access. Has internet. Serves alcohol. Has outdoor seating.
• Restaurace Carmelita, Újezd 31 (☎257 312 564; www.restauracecarmelita.cz), A: Malostranská. From the metro, take the tram to Újezd. Reasonably priced (if you avoid the entrees) Italian food served in a classy, but not stuffy atmosphere that locals and visitors alike can enjoy. Greater variety than most Italian places in the area, and the indecisive will appreciate the quattro stagioni pizza, which contains 4 of their specialty pizzas in 1 easily divided dish (145Kč). The gnocchi al forno (baked gnocchi with chicken, bacon, mushrooms, cream sauce; 169Kč) is as filling as it is delicious. Appetizers 85-159Kč. Salads 98-169Kč. Pasta 109-169Kč. Entrees 175-349Kč. Wheelchair-accessible. Open M-Sa 11am-midnight
• Noi, Újezd 19 (☎257 311 411; www.noirestaurant.cz), A: Malostranská. From the metro, take the tram to Újezd. High-end restaurant reminiscent of a stylish lounge with interior decor chosen and arranged according to zen principles. Yuppies of all palates enjoy a mix of traditional and original Thai dishes classified according to a spiciness scale. The Noi noodle (fried rice noodles vermicelli with seafood, broccoli, carrot, mushroom, and sauce; 280Kč) is a house specialty. Appetizers 90Kč. Entrees 180-290Kč. Open daily 11am-1am. Reservations recommended
• Trattoria Amedeo, Újezd 20 A: Malostranská. From the metro, take the tram to the Újezd stop. Reasonably priced Italian food and stylishly patterned walls attract a constant crowd of students and other young people to the small dining area. The menu covers all the basics, but manages to sneak in a few surprises, like the Venezia pizza (cream, chicken, asparagus, mozzarella, and blue cheese; 139Kč) and the gnocchi mafioso (beef sirloin with spicy tomato sauce; 149Kč). ISIC card holders love the buy-1-get-1-free pizza deal (before 5pm). Salads 129-189Kč. Pasta 119-149Kč. Pizza 109-139Kč. Steak 139-199Kč. Wheelchair-accessible. Open daily 11:30am-11pm
• Café Savoy, Vitĕzná 5 (☎257 311 562; www.ambi.cz), A: Malostranská. From the metro, take the tram to the Újezd stop; the restaurant is at the corner of Újezd and Vitĕzná. Upscale restaurant disguised as an upscale cafe with marble tabletops, chandeliers, and servers with vests and bowties. Though most of the menu is probably off-limits for budget travelers, a few reasonably priced gems, like the omelette with Gruyére cheese (148Kč) and the Frankfurter Savoy (124Kč) remain for those who care to look. Small menus 128-198Kč. Entrees 168-285Kč. Coffee 65Kč. Tea 45-78Kč. Wheelchair-accessible. Open M-F 8am-10:30pm, Sa-Su 9am-10:30pm
• Malý Buddha, Úvoz 46 (☎220 513 894; www.malybuddha.cz), Trams 12, 20, 22, 91, Malostranské náměstí tram stop. From the tram, head west on Malostranské náměstí, which will become Nerudova, and then eventually Úvoz; the restaurant will be on your right. Various East Asian dishes served in a candlelit setting surrounded by Tibetan prayer flags and depictions of the Buddha to set your wandering soul at ease. Specialties include Tibetan fried rice (126Kč) and prawns with mushrooms and bamboo shoots (220Kč). Vegetarian options 70-169Kč. Entrees 136-250Kč. Meditation M 7pm-8pm. Open Tu-Su noon-10:30pm
• Cantina, Újezd 38 A: Malostranská. From the metro, take the tram to Újezd. Large portions of passable Tex-Mex food. The service is prompt and the atmosphere is colorful and friendly. Come hungry so you can start off with the Sopa Azteca (50Kč), a house specialty. Appetizers 50-95Kč. Enchiladas 160-179Kč. Fajitas 219-309Kč. Entrees 159-245Kč. Wheelchair-accessible. Open daily 11am-11pm
• Juridica Baroque Restaurant, Karmelitská 19 (☎257 199 263; www.juridicaclub.cz), Trams 12, 20, 22, 91, Hellichova tram stop. From the tram, head north on Karmelitská. Pairs Baroque opulence with fairly cheap prices. The leather benches, mirrors, and chandelier will make you feel like you’re spending more money than you actually are. House specials include braised beef with cream sauce and cranberry (125Kč) and traditional schnitzel (165Kč). Be sure to leave room for some homemade plum brandy with ice cream (95Kč). Appetizers 85-95Kč. Entrees 125-225Kč. Daily menu 109Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm
• Pivnice U Švejků, Újezd 22 (☎257 313 244; www.usvejku.cz), A: Malostranská. From the metro, take the tram to Újezd. Another Švejk-themed restaurant, decorated with marionettes and paintings of an enthusiastic soldier. Typical Czech fare includes the hearty Peasant Plate (roasted pork, pork neck, roasted meat hash, cabbage, potato, and dumplings; 168Kč). Standard wooden benches and tables remind you that you’re supposed to be in an authentic Czech pub, and after 7pm, an accordion player is on-hand to dispel any lingering doubt. Soups 35Kč. Vegetarian options 118-138Kč. Entrees 148-199Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight
• U Sedmi Švábů, Jánský Vršek 14 (☎257 531 455; www.svabove.cz), From the tram, head west on Malostranské náměstí, which will become Nerudova, turn left onto Jánský Vršek. Medieval-themed tourist trap with more gimmicks than dishes. If the serving wenches and suits of armor don’t convince you that someone is trying too hard, maybe the occasional firebreathers, dancers, or lute players will. The menu, said to contain many 15th- and 16th-century recipes, includes fried camembert with cranberry (150Kč) and “the Knight’s scrag end” (smoked meat with horseradish, mustard, and sour gherkin; 170Kč). Appetizers 65-85Kč. Entrees 150-390Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm
• Restaurace Nostitz, Nosticova 2a (☎257 007 681; www.nostitz.cz), Trams 12, 20, 22, 91, Hellichova tram stop. From the tram, walk south down Újezd and make a left on Hellichova, the restaurant is in the Sokol Organization complex. Located in a former summer palace used by the Jesuits, now popular with local families and guests from Hostel Sokol. The decor is simple, the service friendly, and the food hearty. Specials include the chicken breast stuffed with cream cheese and topped with red pepper sauce (189Kč) and the roasted rabbit larded with bacon (229Kč). Salads 89-179Kč. Pasta 149-179Kč. Entrees 169-359Kč. Wheelchair-accessible. Open daily 11am-midnight
• U Tři Černých Ruží, Zámecká 5 (☎257 530 019; www.u3cr.com), Metro A: Malostranská. At the foot of the New Castle steps. Intimate restaurant and bar with a local crowd. Large portions. Entrees 80-250Kč. Beer from 23Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight.

• Cafes

Kavárna v Sedmém Nebi, Zborovská 68 Trams 6, 9, 12, 20, 22, 91, Újezd tram stop. From the tram, take Vítězná toward the river, then turn right on Zborovská. Bustling cafe and popular hangout for ...more