High above the Isle River, the towering steeple and five massive cupolas of the Cathédrale St-Front—often a stop on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela—dominate the skyline of Périgueux (pare-ee-guh; pop. 65,000). Beneath the cathedral lies the quiet, colorful, and largely pedestrian centre-ville, where narrow streets are lined with myriad shops, cafes, and restaurants featuring the regional specialties. Travelers with cars might want to daytrip to the caves of the Vézère Valley from Périgueux rather than from Les Eyzies-de-Tayac.
The vieille ville is bordered by cours Tourny and cours Fénelon to the north and south, boulevard Georges Saumand along the river, and boulevard Michel de Montaigne to the east and west. To reach the vieille ville and tourist office from the station, turn right on rue Denis Papin and left on rue des Mobiles de Coulmiers, which becomes rue du Président Wilson. After the Monoprix, turn right and walk one block. The office is on the left, beside the Tour Mataguerre (15min.).
The labyrinth of narrow stone streets between cours Michel Montaigne and rue Taillefer reveals restaurants serving regional culinary treasures—including walnuts, fruit liqueurs, foie gras, other duck specialties, and cèpe and girolle mushrooms. A stroll down rue Salinière and rue Limogeanne reveals an assortment of charcuteries, pâtisseries, boulangeries, and sandwich shops. There are small morning markets on place du Coderc and place de l’Hôtel de Ville, and a larger one on place de la Clautre, near the cathedral. (Open W and Sa 8am-1pm.) The behemoth Monoprix at pl. Bugeaud is impossible to miss. (Open M-Sa 8:30am-8pm. MC/V.) There’s a Marché Plus at 55 rue du Président Wilson. (Open M-Sa 7am-9pm, Su 8am-1pm. MC/V.)
Périgueux is divided into two distinct historical districts: the Medieval and Renaissance section to the northeast and the Gallo-Roman city to the southwest. Next to the tourist office is the medieval Tour Mataguerre, which derives its name from the Occitan (ancient Languedoc) language— matar, meaning “to hold at bay,” and guerra, meaning “war.”
Musée Gallo-Romain. An intricate walkway passes over the excavated ruins of the Domus de Vésone, once the lavish home of a wealthy Roman merchant. A modern, interestingly beautiful building, the interesting museum boasts a rich collection of Roman artifacts, murals, and stonework. Detailed displays describe Roman life and the design of ancient Périgueux. (Rue Claude Bernard, next door to the Tour de Vésone. ☎05 53 05 65 60. Open July-Sept. daily 10am-7pm; Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-July Tu-Su 10am-12:30pm and 2-6pm; Nov.-Dec. and Feb.-Mar. Tu-Su 10am-12:30pm and 2-5:30pm. Tours in French July-Aug. daily. €5.70, under 12 €3.70. Tours €1. Audio tour in English €1.)
Cathédrale Saint-Front . For travelers who have seen one too many Gothic cathedrals, this cathedral offers a break from the ordinary. The visually stunning church—built in the shape of a Greek cross—is crowned by five immense Byzantine cupolas next to a soaring belfry. The interior features beautiful chandeliers, an impressive organ, and an unusually beautiful wood altarpiece. In the 19th century, St-Front was restored by architect Paul Abadie, who used the cathedral as inspiration for his design of the Basilique Sacré-Coeur in Paris. (Open daily 8am-noon and 2:30-7pm.)
Musée Du Périgord. This museum is home to one of France’s most important collections of prehistoric artifacts, including fossils from Les Eyzies, 2m long mammoth tusks, and an Egyptian mummy whose bare toe bones peek out from crusty coverings. It also holds a small collection of art from the medieval through modern periods. (22 cours Tourny, down rue St-Front from the cathedral. ☎05 53 06 40 70. Open Apr.-Sept. M and W-F 10:30am-5:30pm, Sa-Su 1-6pm; Oct.-Mar. M and W-F 10am-5pm. €4, students €2, under 18 free.)
Tour De Vésone . The ruins of this Gallo-Roman tower, built in the AD first century, were once part of a huge temple dedicated to the patron goddess and namesake of Vésone (the name of ancient Périgueux). Although only the crumbling shell of the tower remains, the site still retains a spiritual quality; it was originally a cella —the center of worship in Roman temples. About a quarter of the weighty structure was demolished, supposedly by the last fleeing demons of paganism, though it was more likely dismantled to create the city’s defensive wall. (Park grounds open daily Apr.-Sept. 7:30am-9pm; Oct.-Mar. 7:30am-6:30pm.)
Other Sights. Cross the bridge from the Tour de Vésone and turn left down rue Romaine to reach a cluster of architectural vestiges dating from the first century through the High Middle Ages. Flowers sprout through the crevices of the Château Barrière, a four-story Late Gothic castle. The Romanesque house next door is an example of the use of spolia —the decorative incorporation of ruins in modern buildings. The Porte Normande is a fragment of the wall that once surrounded the city to defend against the first Norman and barbarian attacks. On rue Romaine, the 11th-century Église Saint-Étienne-de-la-Cité, the city’s primary cathedral until it was badly damaged during the Wars of Religion, features two simple but stately cupolas dotted with small Romanesque windows. (Open daily 9:30am-noon and 2:30-6:30pm.) A Roman amphitheater currently serves as a public park, with luxurious foliage and an inviting fountain. (Open daily Apr.-Sept. 7:30am-9pm; Oct.-Mar. 7:30am-6:30pm.)
Although the streets may be sleepy, Périgueux’s night spots liven up when the sun sets. Place Saint-Silain and place Saint-Louis are the centers of the city’s nightlife, with music and outdoor cafes, while place du Marché au Bois hosts frequent concerts. Bars line the lively rue de la Sagesse.
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