Amsterdam Gay and Lesbian Travel

Just over half a century after many of its GLBT citizens were deported and killed by the Nazis in WWII, today Amsterdam is undeniably one of the gay centers of the world—if not the capital. Legal protections—from age of consent to non-discrimination in the military to adoption policies—make no distinction between heterosexual and homosexual citizens. In 2001, Amsterdam also legalized the world’s first gay marriage. Gay and lesbian clubs, hotels, restaurants, gyms, coffee shops, saunas, and other establishments grace almost every street and canal in the city proper. The annual Pride Festival, which explodes into a flurry of unabashed canal-side revelry in early August, attracts hundreds of thousands of people of all sexual orientations, not to mention ages, ethnicities, and nationalities. Yet perhaps more indicative of the Dutch’s tolerance, if not outright acceptance, of GLBT people and culture is the difficulty of distinguishing a specific “gay” scene in Amsterdam. While foreigners may be surprised to see two men walking hand-in-hand in public, Amsterdammers remain blithely unconcerned at this commonplace sight.

The Golden Bear, Kerkstraat 37 tel: 062 447 85 www.goldenbear.nl Since 1948, this has been Amsterdam’s premier openly gay hotel (about 75% of the guests are male, though women and straight couples are certainly welcome). Besides its forward-thinking attitude, the hotel is notable for its welcoming staff and elegantly modern rooms at excellent prices. Management is changing in late 2010, so call ahead to find out if policies have changed. Take Tram #1, 2, or 5 to Keizersgracht. Continue down Leidsestraat and make a right. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi. Singles without bath €63-70; doubles €73-90, with bath €90-130.
Homomonument, Westermarkt www.homomonument.nl Designed by Karin Daan and officially opened in 1987, the Homomonument was the culmination of a movement to erect a memorial dedicated to those who were persecuted by the Nazis for their sexuality, but it is also meant to stand for all homosexual men and women who have been and are being oppressed because of their sexual orientation. The monument is constructed of three pink granite triangles (in remembrance of the symbol the Nazis forced homosexuals to wear) that are connected by thin lines of pink granite to form a larger triangle. Built so that it would merge seamlessly with the daily life of the city, the Homomonument can, in fact, be hard to discern under picnicking tourists and whizzing bikes. One triangle is set down into the water of the Keizergracht and points towards the National War Monument in Dam square, representing the present. The raised triangle stands for the future and points toward the headquarters of the COC, a Dutch gay rights group that was founded in 1946, and, as such, is the oldest continuously operating gay and lesbian organization in the world. The third triangle points toward the Anne Frank House, symbolizing the past; it is engraved with the words “Naar Vriendschap Zulk een Mateloos Verlangen” (“such an endless desire for friendship”) from the poem To a Young Fisherman by Jacob Israel de Haan (1881-1924), a gay Dutch Jewish poet. Take Tram #13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt. The Homomonument is between Westerkerk and the Keizersgracht. Free.
The Other Side, Reguliersdwarsstraat 6 (tel: 042 110 14). A cafe atmosphere, with bright decor and muted jazzy music, makes this a hip and pleasant place to stop for a smoke. The Other Side also serves some of the best coffee and tea in Amsterdam. Carries nine types of weed and 10 types of hash, sold in €10, €20, and €35 increments. Pre-rolled joints (with Super Skunk or Pollen) are available. Take Tram #9 or 14 to Rembrandtplein or tram #1, 2, or 5 to Koningsplein. €10 will get you 1.4-1.8g weed, depending on strain; 1-3g hash, depending on strain. €20 will get you 2-4.4g weed/2-5g hash, €35 will get you 5.5g/3-4.8g. Joints €3.75. Open daily 11am-1am.
Getto, Warmoesstraat 51 (tel: 042 151 51 www.getto.nl). A fun, everyone’s-welcome-here cocktail bar crossed with a diner, Getto offers a phenomenal cocktail menu as well as their very own homemade infused vodka (flavors range from vanilla to cucumber). Though the bar’s considered a GLBT establishment, the crowd is really as diverse as they come. It also serves a mean BBQ burger alongside a rotating selection of other good food.From Centraal Station, go south on Damrak, turn right onto Brugsteeg, and veer left onto Warmoesstraat. €4.50 cocktails during happy hour. Su DJ party from 5pm with special cocktail deals. Cocktails from €6. Open Tu-Th 4pm-1am, F-Sa 4pm-2am, Su 4pm-midnight. Happy hour Tu-Sa 5-7pm.
Prik, Spuistraat 109 (tel: 032 000 02 www.prikamsterdam.nl). Voted both best bar and best gay bar in Amsterdam on multiple occasions, Prik attracts pretty much everyone—locals and tourists, gay and straight people, men and women—though the majority of patrons tend to be men. It’s a place that is as light and fun as its name (“bubble” in Dutch). Serves great inventive cocktails and tasty bar snacks. Come for cocktail specials all day Thursday and Sunday evenings. On weekends, DJs spin pop, house, and disco classics.Take Tram #1, 2, 5, or 14 to Dam/Paleisstraat. Walk down Paleisstraat and right onto Spuistraat. Beer from €2. Mixed drinks from €6. Open M-Th 4pm-1am, F-Sa 4pm-3am, Su 4pm-1am. Kitchen open until 11pm.
Mankind, Weteringstraat 60 (tel: 063 847 55 www.mankind.nl). In a surprisingly quiet spot just a few blocks from Leidseplein and the Rijksmuseum, Mankind is an ideal bar to grab an afternoon or evening beer. Two outdoor patios, one facing Weteringstraat and the other adjacent to the canal, allow you to people-watch by land or by sea. Draws loyal regulars and diverse tourists for after-work drinks. Serves the usual menu of Dutch bar snacks (bitterballen, tostis, etc.). Advertised as GLBT-friendly but doesn’t feel like an exclusively gay crowd.Take Tram #7 or 10 to Spiegelgracht. Walk down Weteringschans and make a left. Beer from €2. Open M-Sa noon-11pm. Kitchen closes at 8pm.
Lellebel, Utrechtstraat 4 (tel: 042 751 39 www.lellebel.nl). A terrifically fun and welcoming bar presided over by outrageous drag queens. With decor that’s as campy as the costumes, Lellebel is all the more ready to help you make friends with your fellow drinkers. While it attracts a primarily gay male crowd, absolutely all genders and sexualities will feel comfortable here, as the ladies behind the bar are eager to assert. It plays host to a variety of theme nights—karaoke, Transgender Cafe, and Salsa Night, to name a few—and events such as the frequent Miss Lellebel contests and a Eurovision party. Take Tram #9 or 14 to Rembrandtplein. Just off the southeast corner of the square. Karaoke on Tu. Transgender Cafe on W. Red Hot Salsa Night on Th. Beer €2.50. Open M-Th 8pm-3am, F-Sa 8pm-4am, Su 8pm-3am.
Montmartre, Halvemaansteeg 17 (tel: 062 076 22 www.cafemontmartre.nl). A sinfully luxurious Garden of Eden inspired interior provides the backdrop for this popular spot, regularly voted the best gay bar in Amsterdam. The crowd is dominated by gay men, but all are welcome. As the night wears on, the dancing heats up to Euro and American pop and bouncy disco. Special theme nights spice up each day of the week. Take Tram #9 or 14 to Rembrandtplein. Off of the northwest corner of the square. Beer from €2.50. Liquor from €3.50. Open M-Th 5pm-1am, F-Sa 5pm-3am, Su 5pm-1am.
Vive la Vie, Amstelstraat 7 (tel: 062 401 14 www.vivelavie.net). This long-established lesbian bar draws a diverse crowd of women and a few of their male friends thanks to its unpretentious atmosphere focused on having a fun time. Excellent drink selection includes the Clit on Fire shot (€4), whose ingredients are a closely guarded secret. Music goes from indie rock and bluesy country in the early evening toward dancier tunes as the night progresses.Take Tram #9 or 14 to Rembrandtplein. Beer from €2.50. Spirits from €4. Open M-Th 3pm-3am, F-Sa 3pm-4am, Su 3pm-3am.
Saarein, Elandsstraat 119 (tel: 062 349 01 www.saarein.info). A bruin cafe very much in the tradition of the Jordaan but with a GLBT focus, Saarein attracts mainly older lesbians, though all genders and orientations are heartily welcome. Hosts a variety of events, from a pool competition every Tuesday to discussion groups about issues of gender and sexuality.Take Tram #7, 10, or 17 to Elandsgracht. Make a left onto Lijnbaansgracht and walk 2 blocks. i Free Wi-Fi as well as a computer available for customers’ use. Beer from €2. Open Tu-Th 4pm-1am, F 4pm-2am, Sa noon-2am, Su noon-1am.
Thermos, Raamstraat 33 (tel: 062 391 58 www.thermos.nl). Thermos is one of the oldest and largest gay saunas in Europe; its day and night branches were recently fused together into one complex that is open almost all day. It has a Finnish sauna, Turkish steam bath, whirlpool, swimming pool, video room, private rooms, beauty salon, bar, and restaurant. Popular with a diverse crowd of men; depending on the season, there may be a lot of tourists, but tends to attract a slightly older clientele. Take Tram #7 or 10 to Raamplein. Men only. 18+. €18, under 24 and over 65 €14. Open daily noon-8am.