Kalgoorlie-Boulder’s a two-headed beast. Kalgoorlie enjoys being the primary head; it’s home to most of the major industry, nightlife, and accommodations. Growing awkwardly out of this urban animal’s neck is the smaller Boulder, traditionally home to the working class in this mining metropolis. The two towns are officially merged, but they remain distinct even now, with different town centers (about 5km apart), different postal codes, and different atmospheres. If you’re passing through, Kalgoorlie is likely the place you’ll stay; if you have the time, though, check out Boulder’s weekly markets.
The airport is south of the city off Gatacre St. Qantaslink and Skywest offer daily flights to Perth (1-3 per day). Goldfields Express buses depart from the Goldrush Tours office on Lane Street. (☎1800 620 440; www.goldrushtours.com.au. 7hr.; M and F 3:15pm, Th and Su 1pm; $70, YHA $63.) Prospector trains (☎13 10 53) depart from the station, on the corner of Forrest and Wilson St., for Perth (6hr.; M-Sa 7:05am, also M and F 2.30pm, Su 2:05pm; $77, YHA $69.15).
The Great Eastern Highway (Hwy. 94 from Coolgardie) becomes Hannan Street, the main drag running northeast through town. The town’s hostels and famous brothels sit one block northwest on Hay Street. Lionel St., Wilson St., and Boulder Rd. are all major roads running perpendicular to Hannan and Hay St. To reach Boulder from downtown Kalgoorlie, turn right on Boulder Rd. at the north end of Hannan St. and follow it to Federal Road.
The visitors center, in the Town Hall at the corner of Hannan and Wilson St., books accommodations and tours. (☎08 9021 1966 or 1800 004653; www.kalgoorlietourism.com. Open M-F 8:30am-5pm, Sa-Su 9am-5pm.) Internet access is available at the library on Roberts St., near the Arts Center off Boulder Rd. (☎08 9021 7112. $3 per 30min. Open M-F 9:30am-8pm, Sa 9am-noon, Su 2-5pm.) Or try NetZone, on the corner of Hannan and Wilson St. (☎08 9022 8342. $10 per hr. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm.) The Kalgoorlie Regional Hospital (☎08 9080 5888) is northwest of Hannan St. on Piccadilly St; go across Maritana St. and turn east (right) on Picadilly. The post office is on Hannan St. (☎08 9024 1093. Open M-F 9am-5pm.) Postal Code: 6430 (Kalgoorlie); 6432 (Boulder).
The police (☎08 9021 9777), on Bookman St. behind the post office, maintain that no areas of Kalgoorlie-Boulder are particularly unsafe, although they do warn visitors to be careful of deep mining holes when bushwalking. However, theft has become common in recent years; locals are careful to keep their personal belongings under lock and key. Watch your wallet, use lockers, and don’t leave valuables in your car. There are three brothels on Hay St. between Lionel and Lane St. Women should not walk alone in this area after dark. Twin City Cabs provides taxi service (☎13 10 08).
Many of Kalgoorlie’s main-street hotels have elaborate, historical facades, but you may end up paying for the beauty. Those who are uncomfortable with prostitution should note that both hostels are close to the discreet-but-operational brothels on Hay St. The caravan parks on the way out of town toward Coolgardie or the Hannan St. hotels are a good alternative. Book ahead during the September horse races and the mining expo in October.
With miners working around the clock, Kalgoorlie’s services cater to any schedule. Most cafes line Hannan St.; many open early and close late. A Coles supermarket is located at the corner of Wilson and Brookman St. (☎08 9021 8466; open M-W and F 8am-6pm, Th 8am-9pm, Sa 8am-5pm), and there is a Woolworth’s on the corner of Hannan and Wilson St.
Kal boasts nearly 30 pubs, most of which line Hannan St., but nightlife here can be a bit of a bummer for anyone who doesn’t want to compete for the attention of lingerie-clad barmaids, known as skimpies. Most pubs in Kal feature these ladies on most, if not all, nights of the week; it will usually be clearly announced on the outside. All of the establishments listed here are skimpy-free.
The best place to learn about the local industry is the extensive Mining Hall of Fame, located at Hannans North Historic Mining Reserve, a right turn off Goldfields Hwy., 2km north of Hannan St. It features new Chinese gardens, demonstrations of gold pouring and panning, and a tour of an underground mine. (☎08 9026 2700; www.mininghall.com. Open daily 9am-4:30pm. $24, without underground tour $17; concessions $18/14, children $14/9, families $60/45.) To see the industry in action, head to the enormous Super Pit, a 365m-deep open pit mine. Miners usually set off explosions once a day; check with the visitors center. The lookout is just outside town; head toward Boulder on Goldfields Hwy., then turn left at the sign for the pit. It’s best to arrive a bit early, since the miners won’t hold back for tourists if things are ahead of schedule. (Open daily 6am-7pm. Free.) The WA Museum of Kalgoorlie-Boulder sits primly under a massive mining tower. It contains a reconstructed miners’ cottage, exquisitely rebuilt mining board rooms, and British Arms, once the Southern Hemisphere’s narrowest pub. (17 Hannan St. ☎08 9021 8533; www.museum.wa.gov.au. Open daily 10am-4:30pm. Suggested donation $5.) The visitors center at the Royal Flying Doctor Service, located at the airport on Hart Kerspien Dr., gives tours explaining the organization’s impressive medical service to isolated outback communities. Guests can check out the state-of-the-art plane used to transport patients and staff—provided it isn’t out on a mission. (☎08 9093 7595. Open M-F 10am-3pm. Tours on the hr. Admission by donation.) Take a glimpse of Kalgoorlie’s kinky side on a working tour of any of Hay St.’s brothels. As the oldest brothel, Questa Casa, 133 Hay St., offers tours that are as historically informative as they are naughty. Learn about the history, evolution and regulation of prostitution in Kalgoorlie from their dignified British madam. (Tours 2pm daily; $20.) Langtree’s Club 181, 181 Hay St., is the newest brothel and offers a more jazzed-up theatrical tour. (☎08 9026 2111. 18+. Tours daily 1, 3, and 6pm; $35, randy seniors $25. Coffee, tea, and cake available 10am-6pm.) Merchants peddle some more conventional wares at the Boulder Town Market, held on the third Sunday of every month on Burt St. (Open 9:30am-1.30pm.)
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