The granite cliffs and craggy rock arch that stand at Baja’s southern tip are the most famous images of Cabo San Lucas (pop. 50,000). What the postcards don’t show is that it’s difficult to see those natural wonders without high-rise malls, the glitzy marina, and hordes of sunburned tourists getting in the way. Cabo is the ultimate resort, and probably one of the most expensive places in Mexico. As tourists pour money into its restaurants and clubs, the town can’t help but prosper. Nevertheless, Cabo has remained a friendly town, particularly if you move beyond the commercialized centro. Cabo’s pleasures merit the occasional splurge, and even budget travelers can delight in fabulous fish ceviches, gloriously tacky nightlife, and the nonstop flow of margaritas.
Vicario leads to Mex. 19 and Todos Santos. Restaurants, bars, and most tourist services concentrate on Cárdenas, between Morelos and the western edge of town, and along Blvr. Marina. Cárdenas eventually becomes the four-lane Mex. 1 leading to the Corridor. Plazas are concrete malls or tight conglomerations of shops and follow the curve of the marina.
Resorts dominate Cabo San Lucas, and even the cheapest hotels will take a bite out of your wallet—they also have a bad habit of continuously hiking their rates. During the winter high season, call ahead and be prepared to shell out 25% more than during the summer months. Some hotels base rates on US$ and not pesos.
The dozens of ostentatious restaurants along the water are not geared toward budget travelers, although the restaurants are worth visiting just to watch the cooks throw leftovers to hungry schools of fish in the marina. For better deals on food (and Mexican hats and rugs), head inland along Morelos and its side streets. A supermarket, Bimbo/Almacenes Grupo Castro, is located on Morelos at Revolución. (☎143 0566. Open daily 7:30am-11pm.)
Cabo bills itself as the “marlin capital of the world,” and many tourists visit to reel in their share of the millions of huge fish caught each year. Prices for fishing trips are off the hook—nearly all exceed US$200 per day. Most daytime activity in Cabo San Lucas takes place in the pristine waters off the coast. Many head toward the beautiful Los Cabos Corridor, linking San Lucas and San José, but there are plenty of beaches right in Cabo. Playa del Médano, the best for swimming, reaches east from the marina. The waters here resemble an aquatic zoo, featuring exotic species of parasailers, roaring jet skis, enormous cruise ships, and motorboats full of lobster-red, beer-guzzling vacationers. Fly-by-day operators bombard tourists with beach gear to rent. For a more professional operation, visit JT Watersports, in front of the Hacienda Hotel. (☎144 4566; www.jtwatersports.com. Waverunners US$45 per 30min. 10min. parasailing US$40. Ocean kayak rentals US$15 per hr. Open daily 9am-5pm. MC/V.) Baja’s ATV’s and Watersports has several locations on the beach, including one adjacent to the Baja Cantina restaurant. (☎144 3688; www.bajaswatersports.com. Kayak rentals US$20 per hr. Wave runners US$50 per 30min. Open daily 9am-5pm. MC/V.)
The famous Arch Rock of Cabo San Lucas, known as El Arco or Land’s End, is a short boat ride from the marina or Playa del Médano (10min.). Here, the tranquil Sea of Cortés meets the rough Pacific. The rocks around the arch are home to about 40 sea lions who hang out and sunbathe. Both JT Watersports and Baja’s ATV’s and Watersports bring tourists to El Arco from Playa del Médano (US$10). Eager, English-speaking boat captains will also take you there and back from the marina. To find them, walk to the far right of the marina, just past Solomon’s Bar and Grille. The ubiquitous glass-bottom boats also stop at Playa del Amor, a good swimming beach next to El Arco. Beaches crowd easily in Cabo, so be sure to arrive early. Disembark and head back later on a different boat for no additional charge; switching companies costs 50 pesos. The beach is far from isolated and the many glass-bottom boats continuously dropping off passengers will interrupt your swim. When there’s no love, head to Playa del Divorcio (Beach of Divorce). Despite its ominous name, this beach—which lies opposite Amor on the Pacific side—offers a much larger and more isolated area to stretch out. The one downside is that dangerous currents and a fierce undertow make swimming unsafe. The rocky area just before Playa del Amor and Playa del Divorcio is a national park and underwater wonderland. Snorkeling is the best way to explore the stony recesses packed with coral, urchins, tropical fish, moray eels, stingrays, and octopi. Bring your own gear or rent equipment from your boat captain (boat tour and snorkeling package around US$18-20). You can also rent snorkel gear on Playa del Amor.
For a more adventurous and cheaper way to reach Playa del Amor and Playa del Divorcio, head to Hotel SolMar at the end of the marina on the right side. Walk through the lobby and onto the beach, Playa SolMar. Framed by granite cliffs on both ends, SolMar provides a vast and lonely stretch of sand to relax, although, as at Playa del Divorcio, the undertow makes swimming unsafe. Playa SolMar also offers the one way to reach Playa del Amor and Playa del Divorcio via land: Playa del Divorcio is on the other side of the cliff on the left-hand side of the beach. Since there’s no designated path, only those with some mountain climbing experience should attempt the 5min. climb.
Constructed on a small rocky hill in the center of the city, Casa de la Cultura hosts music and art classes for Cabo San Lucas residents. Although you can’t partake in the classes, the Casa de la Cultura offers an incredible vista of all of Cabos San Lucas and the surrounding mountains. The short climb is more than worth the view. (The entrance to the grounds is off Niños Héroes near Abasolo. Open M-F 8am-5pm. Free.)
In Cabo San Lucas, those who play hard pay hard. Drinks are pricey and employees will pressure you to buy drink after drink if you want to remain at a club. Still, clubs usually do not charge cover fees and all offer special deals at least one night a week. Clubs and bars concentrate on Cárdenas and Blvr. Marina, which become a huge laser-lit playground by night, starting after 11pm and winding down at 3 or 4am.
The easiest way to get to the many beaches on the Corridor is by car. All are within 30min. of either Cabo San Lucas or San José del Cabo. “Subur Cabos” buses, which run between San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas, will leave you at any of the listed beaches (up to 23 pesos). To get back, flag down a passing bus.
Amazing beaches dot the 30km stretch of coast between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo. Unfortunately, development is creeping in from both sides. The most pristine, undeveloped beaches are those in the middle. The calmest waters and best swimming areas are those closest to Cabo San Lucas. All of the beaches listed below are accessible from the highway; many lie at the end of winding roads, but all are reachable in passenger vehicles if you don’t try to drive across the beach itself. Access roads to some are identified by small road signs with the name of the beach. A few are marked simply by dirt roads, and closer to San José it becomes increasingly difficult to locate specific beaches unless you’re traveling by bus and can ask the driver for the right stop. The following beaches are listed in geographical order, starting at Cabo San Lucas and moving east along the corridor to San José del Cabo.
Playa Barco Varado. Barco Varado (Shipwreck) is a scuba-diving paradise, although not recommended for swimmers or sunbathers. Tangled among the rocks is the rusted wreckage of a Japanese freighter, which ran ashore in the 1960s. For non-divers, the studded rocks on the beach create a striking photo opportunity. (Take the turnoff to the Cabo del Sol complex immediately before km 10; the guards should let you through the gate. Follow the road downhill and turn right; continue as far as the Sheraton Hacienda. A paved road immediately to the left beyond the hotel leads to a small parking area.)
Playa La Viuda. Crashing waves and jagged outcroppings shelter quiet, secluded Playa La Viuda (Widow Beach). The winding road that leads to the rocky beach is a good place to spot wildlife, and the ten palapa shelters are perfect for picnics. Swimming is not advised. (Follow the sandy road immediately to the right of the gated entrance to the Twin Dolphin resort at km 11.5.)
Playa Santa Maria. A cove protects the clear waters of this small beach from harsh waves, and swimming is safe year-round. Some of Cabo’s best snorkeling can be found here, and you can rent gear from Servicios Taide, on the right side of the beach coming from the parking lot. (Mask and snorkel rental 70 pesos, full snorkeling gear 120 pesos per day. Boogie board 100 pesos per day. Kayak for 2 people 200 pesos per hr. Shade umbrella 100 pesos per day. Open daily 9am-5pm.) The spectacular hills on either side of the cove are also worth a look. (Just past Playa Twin Dolphin at km 12. Parking lot open 7am-8pm; supervised parking is free, though tips are appreciated.)
Playa Chileno. A very popular swimming spot, Chileno has free public showers. Tour operators bring groups here via boat to snorkel, and heavy traffic sometimes spoils the golden sands. (A large public parking lot lies right off km 14. Open daily 7am-7pm. Free.)
Playa El Tule. The long, rocky shore is unsuitable for swimming, but surfers fight for waves. You won’t find any facilities. (Leave the road via a sandy track just before Puente del Tule, at around km 15. If you don’t have a 4WD, park close to the bridge, since the sand rapidly becomes treacherously thick and the tracks are hard to see.)
Playa Palmilla. Gentle waves, great swimming, and shady palapas attract many families and weekenders. (From km 26, drive into the Palmilla complex and turn right down the access road. Follow signs to the beach for about 1.5km.)
Playa Acapulquito. Big waves and soft sand make this a popular beach with surfers, swimmers, and sunbathers alike, although the surfing crowd dominates. Locals say Acapulquito is suitable for beginning surfers. (Park in front of the Cabo Surf Hotel and the 7 Seas Restaurant, at km 27. Walk down the steep flight of stairs through the huge underground pipe, then between the condominiums to the beach.)
Playa Costa Azul. Adjacent to Playa Acapulquito, Playa Costa Azul is the best surfing beach in all of Los Cabos. The water is usually filled with expert surfers riding the waves, along with an astonishing number of jumping rays. Those who want to display their skills can rent a board, while wannabes can learn the basics at Zipper’s Surf Rentals, on the beach to the left of the parking area. Rentals and free surf maps of the cape are available at Costa Azul Surf Shop, across the highway from the beach. (The last beach before San José del Cabo, at km 28 near the Cabo Surf Hotel. Zipper’s ☎121 4339. Board rentals US$20 per day. Lessons US$50 per hr. Open daily 9am-5pm. Costa Azul ☎142 2771. Rentals start at US$20 per day and lessons are US$55 per hr. Open M-Sa 8am-7pm, Su 10am-5pm. MC/V.)
 |
 |
 |
 |
For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
Facebook
Twitter
You Tube
Foursquare
Newsletter
RSS Feed
Overview