With its narrow streets and traditional zócalo, San José del Cabo (pop. 50,000) is a gentle complement to its hard-partying neighbor, Cabo San Lucas. While Cabo has embraced the gigantic American-style malls that seem to sprout daily and the American hits blaring from its clubs, San José has preserved its colonial heritage. Still, life is changing quickly here. Already, mega-resorts and condominium complexes have invaded the beaches closest to town, and souvenir stores occupy the antique buildings lining Mijares. Although budget travelers will find San José cheaper than San Lucas, prices are still much higher than on the mainland.
Room prices in San José del Cabo are high by Mexican standards, especially if you want A/C (a must in the summer). There are still a number of budget accommodations, however, most of which are near Zaragoza.
Thanks to the sudden influx of wealthy tourists to Los Cabos, there are few options outside the dirt cheap or extremely high price ranges. To fill your stomach with something other than street-side tacos or filet mignon, head to the well-stocked supermarket Aramburo Grocery, at the corner of Guerrero and Zaragoza. (☎142 0188, open daily 9am-9pm.) The municipal market between Coronado and Castro offers a bountiful selection of fresh food, along with a somewhat smaller variety of souvenirs. (Open M-F 7am-5pm, Sa 7am-3pm, Su 9am-2pm.)
Beaches. Hurry—even as you read this, new resorts are popping up. Playa Las Velas, a stunning beach that runs past the grand hotels at the southern end of San José, can be reached via a path that runs between the Crowne Plaza and Royal Solaris Hotels on Malecón San José; it’s a 30min. walk from the centro. The undertow makes swimming unwise, although the beach is great for sunbathing and wave-watching. BajaXplorer Expeditions, on the beach in front of the Crowne Plaza, runs snorkeling tours at nearby Chileno Bay that transport tourists to the bay using waverunners. (☎142 4082; www.bajaxplorer.com. 2hr., US$150.) A better beach for swimming, La Playita, lies 5km east of town in Pueblo La Playa; drive down Juárez and follow the well-marked signs. Adjacent to the brand-new marina, La Playita is popular with local residents. Another way to visit nearby beaches is on horseback or ATV with the English-speaking guides at MotoSol, located in the large field on Mijares opposite González. (☎143 9310; www.atvmotosol.com. 1-2hr., US$35 per hr. Dune tours from US$60 for 2hr. Open daily 8am-6pm.)
Misión De San José. Overlooking Plaza Mijares, the mission was founded in 1730 by Father Nicolás Tamaral, a Spanish Jesuit. Only four years after its establishment, though, Tamaral was burned alive in an Indian rebellion. Above the main entrance to the church is a graphic image of three Indians dragging Tamaral to his death. The church was rebuilt in the early 20th century, after the previous building deteriorated. (On Hidalgo between Obregón and Zaragoza.)
Estero De San José. Nature-lovers should visit the Estero de San José, which is home to more than 200 species of birds. A pleasant, shaded path meanders among ducks, birds, and snakes from across the Hotel Presidente Inter-Continental to an outlet in front of the post office on Mijares. Bikes offer a convenient and enjoyable way to enjoy the estuary. (Find the entrance by heading away from the centro on Mijares and turning left immediately before the beach; the estuary is at the end of the road on the left, near the Hotel Presidente Inter-Continental. It can also be accessed via a small road across from the post offic e. Tio Sports rents mountain bikes across from the Inter-Continental for US$6 per hr. ☎143 339; www.tiosports.com. Open daily from 8:30am-7pm.)
Cactimundo. Established in 2002, Cactimundo already offers an astounding variety of 11,800 densely planted cacti native to Mexico, Argentina, Peru, and Madagascar. The garden claims that it contains “Latin America’s biggest collection of cacti and succulents,” although anybody who ventures out of town will know that there are a lot of cacti out there too. (On Mijares, between the American Express office and the beach. Open daily 8am-6pm. 30 pesos.)
San José del Cabo can’t compete with wild San Lucas, but a good time isn’t hard to find—just kick back, relax, and don’t expect conga lines or table dancing.
Águila Malecón “Vía Larga” buses from La Paz to San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas (5 per day 10am-5:30pm) stop in Los Barriles (2hr., 69 pesos). A number of Águila/ABC buses heading to La Paz from San José also stop in Los Barriles (1hr., 7 per day 6am-6pm, 72 pesos).
Aficionados insist that windsurfing at the small town of Los Barriles is the best in Baja. Attracted by the claim, large numbers of Americans have moved here in their RVs to surf March through November when the wind is strong, and to fish during the rest of the year. An astounding number of hulking SUVs with California license plates roll down the town’s dusty main street, 20 de Noviembre, where more English is spoken than Spanish. The most popular dive spots are near Cabo Pulmo and Los Frailes, south of Los Barriles, separated by secluded beaches and coves. Aside from diving, San José is a designated fishing zone, as fishing on much of the east cape is prohibited. Off Cabo Pulmo, eight fingers of a living coral reef—thought to be 25,000 years old and one of only three in North America—host hundreds of species of fish, crustaceans, and other creatures, including hammerhead sharks.
Santiago is accessible via the same buses that go to Los Barriles, although buses drop visitors about 2km outside of town on Mex. 1.
Rich and famous Americans, such as Dwight Eisenhower and Bing Cosby, used to frequent little Santiago (pop. 4500) to hunt doves. Today, though, the town’s largest flock of doves is probably at its remarkable Parque Zoológico. Established in 1983, the zoo features a very fat and extremely long python, a Bengal tiger, two lions, an adorable family of raccoons, a trio of gray foxes, and an assortment of other native and non-native animals. Basking under the Baja sun, many of these animals are hungry for attention (or maybe for food) and stare longingly when visitors approach their barred cages. (To reach the zoo, take Misoneros until it ends, turn right onto Guadalupe Victoria, and take a left on Mujica. Open daily 7am-5pm. Free.) In order to visit another of Santiago’s attractions, the nearby hot springs in Chorro, continue past the zoo for 11km on a dirt road until you arrive at the town of Agua Caliente. Bear right at the basketball courts and follow this road, keeping to the right at the forks. After 5km, the smell of sulfur welcomes you to the tranquility of the springs. During high season, the springs are diverted into luxurious tubs.
Santiago also boasts the Palomar Restaurant 5, on Misoneros, which serves old-style Mexican food, such as a sea bass dish for 114 pesos. The Palomar also doubles as a hotel, where rooms center around a grove of fruit trees; Sergio can direct visitors to a nearby waterfall. (☎130 2019. Open M-Sa 11am-7:30pm. Doubles 450 pesos.) The police is located on Independencia, up the hill from the zócalo (☎130 2028). The Centro de Salud is located across from the Mission of Santiago de los Cabos church. (☎130 2057. Open M-F 8:30am-2:30pm.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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