Saint-Cirq-Lapopie Overview

One of the most beautiful villages in France—as the sign outside town proudly proclaims—tiny St-Cirq-Lapopie (sehn-sehrk-lah-poh-pee; pop. 207), atop a cliff ledge, has streets so steep that the roof of one 13th-century house begins where its neighbor’s garden ends. The beauty of the village attracted such painters as Henri Marin and André Breton, who apparently claimed he would not live anywhere else. St-Cirq was a young local martyr slaughtered in the Middle East during Crusades, while “Lapopie”—which means “nipple” in Old Breton—was first used to describe the suggestive form of the cliff on which the village was founded. Scandalous connotations aside, St-Cirq-Lapopie has been classified as a national historical monument; not a single new building ruins the skyline that the Surrealist Breton loved so deeply.

Transportation And Practical Information. To get to St-Cirq-Lapopie by car, follow D653 out of Cahors and turn right onto D662 when you reach Vers. SNCF buses run past St-Cirq-Lapopie from Cahors on the way to Figeac (#16; 45min.; M-Sa 5 per day, Su 4 per day; €5.30). Get off at Tour de Faure. Walk in the direction from which the bus came, cross the bridge on the left, and hike uphill to town (30min.). The tourist office, pl. de Sombral, in the main square, offers walking tours in French and a list of hotel vacancies. (☎05 65 31 29 06. Open July-Aug. M-F 10am-1pm and 2-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-1pm and 2-6pm; Sept.-Oct. and Apr.-May daily 10am-1pm and 2-6pm; Nov.-Mar. and June M-Sa 2-6pm.) Kalapca Loisirs, near the campsite, offers kayak rental and books two- to six-day trips with camping or gîte packages. (☎05 65 30 29 51; www.kalapca.com. Canoes €5 per hr. Kayaks €7 per hr., €10-13 per ½-day. MC/V.)

Accommodations And Food. The best beds in St-Cirq are at the gîte d’étape and cultural center   Maison de la Fourdonne , a restored 16th-century house with a stocked kitchenette and timbered common room containing a decorative stone fireplace. Three- to five-bed rooms all have baths; some have balconies. (}/fax 05 65 31 21 51. Bring sheets. Reception from early Apr. to early Nov. 10:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-7pm. Reservations highly recommended July-Aug. Open from mid-Mar. to mid-Nov. Dorms €13. Cash only.) Auberge du Sombral , in front of the tourist office, offers elegant rooms with tasteful paintings. (☎05 65 31 26 08; fax 30 26 37. Breakfast €8. Singles with shower €50; doubles with shower €70, with bath €78; triples €88. MC/V.) Between the town and the bus stop, the riverside   Camping de la Plage is close to a small beach as well as kayak and canoe sites. High bushes provide privacy for campers in this crowded site. (☎05 65 30 29 51; www.campingplage.com. Free Wi-Fi. €5 per person; sites €5-7. Electricity €4-5. MC/V.)

For a good meal, try L’Atelier , just before the village on the main road into town. Traditional French plats are served in a shaded courtyard with a view of the valley. Don’t hesitate to doodle on your place mat—generations of drawings are pinned to the walls. (☎05 65 31 22 34. Open Feb.-Dec. M and Th-Su noon-2pm and 7-9:30pm, Tu noon-2pm; hours are “elastic.” MC/V.)

Sights. Though all of the village’s archives were burned during the French Revolution, the cultural center, Maison de la Fourdonne, pieces together St-Cirq’s rocky history. The center also hosts plays and concerts every Tuesday evening. (}/fax 05 65 31 21 51. Open Apr.-Nov. Tu-Su 2:30-7pm. Guided tours Tu-Sa 11am or with reservation. Evening shows June-Sept. Tu. €1.50, students €1. Tours €4. Shows €3-5.) Stairs located behind the tourist office lead up to the highest point of the village: the ruins of Château Lapopie. Condemned to destruction in 1580 by Henri de Navarre, the castle had proved impervious to sieges for centuries. Today, it offers a stunning panorama of the valley.