Tenterfield And Nearby Parks Overview

It was in Tenterfield (pop. 3500) that Sir Henry Parkes cried out, “One people, one destiny,” in an 1889 speech that foresaw Australia’s federation. The town clings to its history with preserved buildings and a Sir Henry Parkes celebration. While known by locals as the “Birthplace of Our Nation,” as the northern point of entry to the region, it is also called the “Gateway to New England.”

Transportation. Greyhound Australia (☎13 14 99 or 13 20 30) runs buses to Brisbane (5½hr.; 2 per day; $87, students $71) and Sydney (12hr., daily at midnight, $104/93). Kirklands (☎02 6622 1499) runs to Lismore (3hr.; M, W, F 2pm; $30). Crisp’s Coaches (☎07 4661 8333) runs to Brisbane (4hr.; M, W, F, Su; $75, students $64). Buses stop at various points on Rouse St.; call for details. Countrylink runs buses to Armidale (2hr., daily 5:50am, $27).

Practical Information.  The Tenterfield Visitors Centre, 157 Rouse St. (New England Hwy.), has info on all New England destinations. (☎02 6736 1082; www.tenterfield.com. Open M-F 9:30am-5pm, Sa-Su 9:30am-4pm.) Rouse St. is home to ATMs and the public library (☎02 6736 6060. Open M-F 10am-5pm, Sa 9am-noon. Free Internet access.) The police station is at 94 Molesworth St. (☎02 6736 1144), and the parks office is at 10 Miles St. (☎02 6736 4298; open M-F 8am-4pm). The hospital (☎02 6739 5200) is at 1-5 Naas St. The post office is at 225 Rouse St. (Open M-F 8:45am-5pm.) Postal Code: 2372.

Accommodations And Food. For cheap accommodations, you can try the Tenterfield Lodge Caravan Park , 2 Manners St., which houses a hostel with a friendly host who helps travelers find seasonal work. Most guests are male or fruit pickers, but female rooms are also available. Call in advance for free pickup from the bus station. (☎02 6736 1477. Sites for 2 $20, powered $22; cabins $40, ensuite $65. Extra adult $4. Dorms $25. Weekly rates available. MC/V.) A couple of hotels exist in town; try the Telegraph Hotel , 133 Manners St., for basic rooms. (☎02 6736 1015. Singles $25, doubles/twins $30. MC/V.) Three unsealed kilometers north of Bald Rock National Park on Mt. Lindesay Rd. is the wonderful   Bald Rock Bush Retreat , which includes a stunning Spanish hacienda, a backpacker guest house, and luxurious waterfront cabins. Wander through the trails among the horses and kangaroos by day and enjoy a night sky so bright that a guest once termed this place the “5 million stars hotel.” (☎02 4686 1227; www.baldrockbushretreat.com. Doubles $60-150; ensuite cabin $150. 8-person bunk house for min. 4-person group from $120, extra adult $30. MC/V.) The Willow Tree , 274 Rouse St., serves delicious sandwiches on thick toasted bread ($9-16). Warm up by the crackling fire or enjoy the sun on the patio. (☎02 6736 2135. Open daily 8:30am-5pm. MC/V.) The Famous Pie Shop , on Rouse St., earns its name with the yummy “Wagyu Beef Pie” ($4.35), which recently won the National Aussie Pie Contest. (Open M-F 6am-5:30pm, Sa 7am-4pm. Cash only.) Both the Royal Hotel and the Telegraph Hotel offer reasonably priced counter menu lunches ($8-10) noon-2pm.

Outdoor Activities. Tenterfield lies near three national parks ($7 entry fee). To reach them, take Rouse St. north, turn right on Naas St., then quickly bear left onto Mt. Lindesay Rd. Before reaching the parks, history buffs might want to take a look at the remains of Tenterfield’s WWII tank traps, about 11km from town. These traps were part of the Brisbane Line, Oz’s second line of defense in case the northern part of the country was defeated. Tenterfield was a major strategic center; during the war, up to 10,000 troops were camped in the area. About 3km farther, a narrow, gravel lane leads to Basket Swamp National Park, a preserved woodland area with picnic and bushcamping sites.

For a less-touristed look at a giant monolith, skip Uluru and head to Bald Rock National Park, home to the largest exposed granite monolith in the Southern Hemisphere. To reach it, head down Mt. Lindesay Rd. for 29km to a sealed road that runs 5km to the park’s camping and picnic areas. Two paths lead to the 1277m summit and its great views of the McPherson Ranges. The Burgoona Walk (2.5km) is a scenic, moderate hiking path, while the Summit Direct Path (1.2km) is a steep scramble up the rock face (follow the white dotted trail). Combine the Burgoona ascent and the Summit Direct descent for a 3hr. round trip.

The entrance to Boonoo Boonoo (BUN-na buh-NOO) National Park is 24km north of Tenterfield, with another 14km of gravel leading to the stunning, carved-granite Boonoo Boonoo Gorge and Falls. From the carpark, one path leads to a lookout over the mammoth falls (300m) and another accesses a swimming hole above the cascade (200m). Camping is available at Cypress Pine Camping Area and includes water, toilets, picnic tables, and BBQ ($10, children $5; vehicle entry fee $7). Pay the $7 vehicle entrance fee only once to access both Boonoo Boonoo and Bald Rock National Parks. Girraween National Park is just west of Bald Rock, across the Queensland border. Take the New England Hwy. to Wyberba and follow Pyramids Rd. for 9km. There is no public transportation to either park, but caravan park owners will sometimes drive their guests.