Byron Bay Overview

A 1hr. drive south from the hipsters of Surfers Paradise and east from the hippies of Nimbin, Byron Bay (pop. 12,000) combines the best of both worlds. Though smaller than party-happy Surfers and less out-there than psychedelic Nimbin, Byron draws visitors of all types with its family- and surfer-friendly beaches, massage spas, palm readers, kebab shops, and bistros.

Buses: Buses depart from the bus depot outside the visitors center on Jonson St. Buy tickets at Peterpan Adventures (see Orientation and Practical Information, ).
- Blanch’s (☎02 6686 2144; www.blanchs.com.au). To: Ballina (50min., 2-8 per day, $9.40), Lennox Head (30min., 2-8 per day, $6), and Mullumbimby (30min., 2-4 per day, $6).
- Countrylink (☎13 22 32; www.countrylink.com.au). To Ballina (40min., 1 per day, $5); Grafton (3hr., 1 per day, $30); Lennox Head (35min., 1 per day, $5); Lismore (1hr., 3 per day, $7); Murwillumbah (1hr., 2 per day, $7); Surfers Paradise (1hr., 1 per day, $13); Sydney (14hr., 4 per day, $88). Prices vary by season. Student discounts available.
- Greyhound Australia (☎13 14 10; www.greyhound.com.au). To: Brisbane (3-4hr., 7 per day, $41); Coffs Harbour (4hr., 4 per day, $57); Lismore (2hr., 1 per day, $43); Murwillumbah (50min., 2 per day, $16); Port Macquarie (7hr., 3 per day, $74); Surfers Paradise (1-2hr., 8 per day, $30); Sydney (13-14hr., 4 per day, $112). Backpacker discount 10%.
- Premier (☎13 34 10; www.premierms.com.au). To Brisbane ($29) and Sydney ($90).
Taxis: Byron Bay Taxis (☎13 10 08). 24hr. Wheelchair-accessible taxis available.
Car Rental: Earth Car Rentals, 18 Fletcher St. (☎02 6685 7472; www.earthcar.com.au). Cars from $44 per day. $550 deposit. Jetset Travel (☎02 6685 6554), behind the bus station just off Jonson St., rents manual cars from $65 per day.

Orientation And Practical Information

Byron isn’t directly on the Pacific Hwy., but it’s accessible via nearby Bangalow (15km south) or Ewingsdale Road (6km north). Bangalow Road enters Byron Bay from the south. Turn off a roundabout on Browning St., which leads to Jonson St., the southern edge of the Central Business District (CBD). Lawson Street, north of town, runs along Main Beach. To the east, Lawson St. becomes Lighthouse Road, running past Clarkes Beach, the Pass surfing spot, Wategos Beach, the lighthouse, and the Cape Byron lookout. To the west, Lawson becomes Shirley Street and curves off to Belongil Beach. Farther west, it becomes Ewingsdale Road and passes the Arts and Industrial Estate before reaching the Pacific Highway.

Tourist Office: Byron Visitors Centre, 80 Jonson St. (☎02 6680 8558; www.visitbyronbay.com), at the bus station. Friendly staff books local adventure activities, hotel rooms, and sells bus tickets. Open daily 9am-5pm.
Tours: Jim’s Alternative Tours (☎02 6685 7720; www.jimsalternativetours.com) are led by Jim, a Byron Bay local since the 1960s. He offers a great 8hr. trip daily that travels through Minyan Falls, Nimbin, and Nightcap National Park. Includes a stop at Paul Recher’s Fruit Spirit Botanical Gardens, reforested with 350 varieties of exotic fruit from around the world. $35. Grasshoppers Eco-Explorer Tour (☎02 6685 5068; www.grasshoppers.com.au) offers an all-day trip to subtropical rainforest, waterfalls, koala- and platypus-sighting spots, and Nimbin. Daily tours 10am-6pm. $39, includes BBQ lunch.
Budget Travel: Backpacker travel centers cluster around the bus station, and most hostels have travel desks that book trips and local activities. The friendly staff at Peterpan Adventures, 87 Jonson St. (☎1800 252 459; www.peterpans.com), does the same, and will book most local activities for free. Open daily 9am-9pm. Wicked Travel, 89 Jonson St., (☎1800 555 339; www.wickedtravel.com.au) offers similar services and Internet access for $3 per hr. Open daily 9am-7:30pm.
Currency Exchange: Banks on Jonson St. are generally open M-Th 9:30am-4pm, F 9:30am-5pm. ATMs are located across the street from the visitors center. The Byron Foreign Exchange Shop, 4 Byron St. (☎02 6685 7787), advertises low fees and good rates. Open M-Sa 9am-5pm, Su 10am-4pm.
Police: (☎02 6685 9499), on the corner of Butler and Shirley St.
Hospital: Byron Bay Hospital (☎02 6685 6200), corner of Shirley and Wordsworth St.
Internet Access: Internet cafes are everywhere in Byron; some pass out vouchers on the street for free or discounted access. Most activity-booking offices also offer free Internet access with bookings. Ask about the Let’s Go discount at Peterpan Adventures (see above). Global Gossip, 84 Jonson St. (☎02 6680 9140), at the bus stop, has Internet for $3 per hr. Open daily in summer 8:30am-11pm, in winter 9am-10:30pm.
Lockers: The transport booking center next door to Global Gossip rents out lockers (large enough for 2 full backpacks) for $10 per day.
Post Office: 61 Jonson St. (☎13 13 18). Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 9am-2pm. Postal Code: 2481.

Accommodations And Camping

In summer, especially around Christmas, Byron is saturated with thousands of tourists; some accommodation prices double accordingly. The best advice is to book early, but demand is so high that some hostels don’t even accept reservations during the summer. Many would-be Byron visitors are forced to stay in Lennox Head or Ballina , 10 and 20min. south, respectively. Sleeping in cars or on the beach is prohibited.

Byron Bay YHA, 7 Carlyle St. (☎02 6685 8853 or 1800 678 195); 300m from beach, 200m from bus stop, 100m from Woolworths. Clean, colorful, and cozy, this hostel has a large kitchen, heated pool, and a covered pavilion with billiards, hammocks, and picnic tables. Lockers $2-7 per day. Towel $1. Laundry $6. Internet $3 per hr., Wi-Fi available. Free parking. Surf boards $15 per day ($100 deposit). Free bikes ($50 deposit) and boogie boards. Reception 8am-9pm. Dorms $27-36; doubles $75-106, ensuite $85-117. Book at least 1 week ahead in the summer. MC/V.
Backpackers Inn on the Beach, 29 Shirley St. (☎02 6685 8231; www.byron-bay.com/backpackersinn). Large and social with direct beach access; fantastic for surfers and sunbathers. Loft kitchen, volleyball, heated pool, BBQ, billiards, cable TV, and games. Free luggage storage. Blanket fee $1. Laundry $5. Internet access $4 per hr. Secure parking. Free bikes ($20 deposit) and boogie boards. Surfboards $16 per 3hr., $25 per day. W and Sa BBQ $5. W Sangria night $5. Wheelchair accessible. Reception daily 8am-8pm; check-in available until late. Dorms $23-30; doubles $65-74. Book ahead in summer. ISIC/VIP/YHA. MC/V.
Aquarius Backpackers, 16 Lawson St. (☎02 6685 7663 or 1800 028 909; www.aquarius-backpackers.com.au), corner of Middleton St. This former 4-star motel has many spacious rooms with 2 levels, porch, and fridge. Poolside bar with happy hour, nightly meals ($9), travel desk, parking, kitchen, and cafe. Internet access $4 per hr., Wi-Fi available. Free boogie boards. Linen $2, blanket deposit $20. Laundry $4. Key deposit $20. Reception 24hr. Ensuite dorms $25-35; doubles $50-90; motel units $110-260. 3- and 7-day discounts. VIP/YHA discounts.
Arts Factory Backpackers Lodge (☎02 6685 7709; www.artsfactory.com.au), on Skinners Shoot Rd., about a 10min. walk from beach. Sprawling grounds with teepees and island bungalows are a bit far from the action, but there’s a heated pool (lit for nighttime pool parties), sauna, and cool cafe. Bring bug repellent. Lockers $2 per 12hr.; keyed wallet lockers $1. Laundry $6. Internet access $1 per 10min. Shuttles to town. Free didjeridu workshops. Pool and ping-pong tournaments. Yoga classes $5-10. Learn bush survival on free Bushtucker walks M-W at 4pm. Reception 7am-9pm. Sites $15-25; dorms and teepees $25-35; twins, doubles, and bungalows $50-80. Discounts for longer stays. NOMADS discount. MC/V.
Cape Byron Hostel (YHA) (☎02 6685 8788 or 1800 652 627), on the corner of Middleton and Byron St. Pinball, pool table, TV, and VCR. Upstairs deck overlooks a solar-heated pool bordered by palm trees. Lockers $4 per day. Laundry $5. Internet $4 per hr. Free parking. Bikes and boogie boards free with deposit. Reception 6:45am-10pm. Dorms $25-35; twins and doubles $70-100, ensuite $80-130. MC/V.

Food

You can’t take two steps in downtown Byron without stumbling into an outdoor cafe, takeaway eatery, or upscale restaurant. A Woolworths supermarket is on Dawson St. (open M-F 8am-9pm, Sa-Su 8am-8pm), and the Byron Farmers’ Market is held every Thursday 8-11am on Butler St. across the train tracks.

Bay Leaf Cafe (☎02 6685 8900) on Marvel St., 1 block from Jonson St. Scrumptious salads, sandwiches, and gourmet coffee in an open-air cafe ideal for lounging. Try the couscous salad (small $8.50, large $12.50). Open daily 7:30am-5pm. Cash only.
Fish Mongers (☎02 6680 8080), on Bay Ln., in an alley off Jonson St. This fish and chips joint reels in hordes of customers with delicious grilled calamari, marinated octopus, tempura prawns, and hand-cut chips. Reasonable prices ($9-19) and non-greasy fish keep your wallet full and your fingers dry. Open daily noon-9pm. AmEx/MC/V.
Earth ’n’ Sea (☎02 6685 6029), in its new location on the corner of Fletcher and Byron St. Surfer decor makes this a great place to unwind. Serves 20 deliciously off-beat pizzas ($15-33), like the “Beethoven” combination of prawn, banana, and pineapple. Pastas from $12. Delivery available. Open daily 11am-late. AmEx/D/MC/V.
Thai Lucy, 2/4 Bay Ln. (☎02 6680 8083). Every bite is worth the price (dishes $15-21) and the wait. Indoor and outdoor seating. Open daily 5:30-10pm. Cash only.
Orgasmic Food (☎02 6680 7778), on Bay Ln. behind the Beach Hotel. Serves fantastic Middle Eastern food (from $9). Outdoor seating. Open daily 11am-9pm. Cash only.
Juicenergy, 20 Jonson St. (☎02 6680 7780), fixes up fresh juices ($4.50-6.50), smoothies ($6), and fruit yogurt ($4.50-9). Open daily 8am-6pm. Cash only.

Sights

Byron Bay Lighthouse. Crowds assemble daily in the pre-dawn darkness to wait for sunrise along the paths leading to Cape Byron’s crowning glory, the Byron Bay Lighthouse, at the end of Lighthouse Rd. Resting on cliffs above the easternmost point of the mainland and visible 50km out to sea, the lighthouse is one of the brightest in Australia. The last keeper left in 1989, long after the landmark became fully automated. His cottage is now an info center and shop, and assistant keeper cottages are available for private holiday rental. Parking at the lighthouse is $6, but there is a very small, free carpark 150m away off Lighthouse Rd. The walk to the lighthouse is 2km from Main Beach. (Grounds open daily sunrise-sunset. Tours Tu and Th 11am, 12:30, and 2pm, and during school holidays Sa 10, 11am, 12:30, 2, and 3:30pm; $8, children and concessions $6, families $25.) A boardwalk follows Lighthouse Rd. and continues past the lighthouse to the Headland Lookout, an excellent place for spotting dolphins and whales from May to September. From there, a walking circuit descends into the Headland Reserve, passing through Wategos Beach, The Pass, and Clarkes Beach, returning back to Lighthouse Rd. at the Captain Cook Lookout. Head here to catch the first morning rays at the easternmost point in Australia.

Artistic Sights. Byron’s artistic community is flourishing; the best example is The Cape Gallery, 2 Lawson St., which exhibits local art and a fine pottery collection. (☎02 6685 7659; www.capegallery.com.au. Open daily in summer 10am-5pm; in winter M-Sa 10am-5pm, Su 11am-4pm.) West of town, the Arts and Industry Estate, off Ewingsdale Rd. (called Shirley Rd. in town), is a compound full of stores where local craftsmen sell industrial glass and metal, paintings, sculptures, crafts, and—oddly enough—shoes. Farrell Glass Designs blows glass at 6 Acacia St., and the gallery is filled with an impressive collection of their work. (☎02 6685 7044; www.farrellglassdesign.com. Gallery open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm; glass-blowing Tu-F 9am-4pm, F 9am-2:30pm.)

Nightlife

It’s easy to avoid paying cover in Byron Bay. Many nightclubs come around to the hostels offering free entry stamps and other specials.

Cheeky Monkey’s (☎02 6685 5886), on the corner of Jonson and Kingsley St. The tables are the best dancefloor at what promises to be a rocking venue any night of the week. Theme nights and frequent backpacker specials. The Cheeky Monkey Party Van scans the streets and swings past hostels to whisk you away. Call ☎1800 261 998 for free pickup. Dinner from $5 (F $2). Happy hour until 9pm. Open in summer M-Sa noon-3am, Su noon-midnight; in winter M-Sa 7pm-3am. Cover $5 after 10pm.
Cocomangas, 32 Jonson St. (☎02 6685 8493), features a smaller dance floor and affordable mixed drinks. Try the famous Jam Jar (juice, gin, Malibu rum, and Triple Sec; $4). Check for freebies in hostels. Happy hour 9-11:30pm. Cover $5 in summer after 10pm; in winter after 10:30pm. Open M-Sa until 3am.
Beach Hotel (☎02 6685 6402), on Jonson St., overlooking the beach. This posh establishment boasts a garden bar and huge patio. Large indoor stage hosts local and nationally recognized bands. Aquariums hang over 1 of the indoor bars and surf videos play in an adjoining room. Live music daily in the summer, Th-Su in the winter. Su live DJs starting at 4:30pm. Open until midnight.
Great Northern Hotel (☎02 6685 6454), on the corner of Jonson and Byron St. An incredible venue for live music, daily around 9pm. Everything from folk to punk. Cover varies depending on act. Open M-Th until 1:30am, F-Sa until 3am.

Entertainment And Festivals

Byron nurses a thriving music scene, and ten or more acts hit the stage every night of the week. Check the gig guide in Echo magazine for information on the week’s performances (found on the streets or online at www.echo.net.au every Tu morning). Music really takes over the town when the major music festivals arrive. The Blues and Roots Music Festival pulls in regional acts and some loosely folksy international superstars for a five-day fiesta over the Easter weekend (☎02 6685 8310; www.bluesfest.com.au), while Splendour in the Grass lights up the first weekend of August with a more alternative but still star-studded lineup. Both events almost always sell out, and accommodations prices invariably sky-rocket. Pighouse Flicks, at the Lounge Cinema in the Arts Factory, is a local favorite that screens classic, arthouse, foreign, and mainstream films in a funky blacklight-lit theater upholstered in comfy cow-print. (☎02 6685 5828. Opens 30min. before showtime. $10, daily specials $8.) A Taste of Byron (☎04 1917 0407) is a popular food festival that falls on the third week in September. The Byron Bay Writers Festival (☎02 6685 6262) takes place the third weekend in July and is a well-attended four-day literary event.

Activities

For travelers seeking constant stimulation, Byron provides it on land (massages and meditation), in the water (boards and boats of every shape and size), and in the air (skydiving, ultralights, and hang gliders). Many packages include free pickup and dropoff. The Byron Bay Visitors Centre books activities, as do Peterpan Adventures , Wicked Travel , and many hostels.

Surfing

Herds of bleach-blonde surfers trudge dutifully to Byron’s beaches every morning at sunrise. Surf schools entice novices by providing all equipment; most guarantee you’ll be standing on the board by the end of your lessons. Byron has excellent surfing spots all around the bay, so regardless of wind conditions, there are always good waves somewhere. The Wreck, just off Main Beach, is known for waves that break close to shore and is where many surf schools hold their lessons. Down the shore toward the lighthouse, The Pass promises long, challenging rides but can be dangerous because of overcrowding, sharp rocks, and boats. The water off Wategos Beach, close to The Pass, is best for longboards since the waves are slow and rolling. Tallows, on the other side of the headland from Wategos, has great northern-wind surfing, but watch for heavy rips. Belongil Beach, to the north of Main Beach, is long and sandy with clothing-optional sections. Broken Head Nature Reserve, 4km south of Byron on the Coast Rd., has verdant rainforest growing right down to its magnificent beaches. Take the track from Broken Head Caravan Park along the clifftop to King’s Beach, or try Broken Head or Whites Beaches for serious surf.

Black Dog Surfing (☎02 6680 9828; www.blackdogsurfing.com), in Shop 8 next to Woolworths on Jonson St. They promise that if they can teach a dog to swim, they can certainly teach you. Offers the most-personalized surf school in Byron. 3hr. lesson $50-60, including a snack; 2-day course $105, 3-day $135. Private or female-only lessons available. Surfboard rental full day $25, weekly $120. Wetsuits $10.
Surfing Byron Bay, Shop 5, 84 Jonson St. (☎02 6685 7099; www.gosurfingbyronbay.com), behind Global Gossip . 3½hr. group lesson $60, 2hr. private lesson $120, 3-day group course $150, 5-day $225. Ask for board rental prices.

Multi-Day Surf Trips

Surfaris (☎1800 00 SURF or 1800 634 951; www.surfaris.com), offers 5-day surf trips between Sydney and Byron (850km off coast). Departs M from Sydney ($549), Su from Byron ($599). All meals and camping included.
Mojosurf (☎02 6639 5100; www.mojosurf.com.au) is a popular choice for multi-day surf holidays. Most surf trips leave from Sydney heading towards Byron, but there are a few that depart from Byron. All-inclusive packages include 2-day trips ($195-245) and a 5-day excursion that connects Sydney and Byron ($595).

Diving And Kayaking

Most diving is done at Julian Rocks Marine Park, 2½km off Main Beach, widely considered one of Australia’s best dive sites. It has both warm and cold currents and is also home to 500 species of fish and the occasional gray nurse shark. Required medical clearances cost $60. Dive certification courses can go up by $70-100 or more during the summer.

Sundive (☎02 6685 7755 or 1800 008 755; www.sundive.com.au), on Middleton St. behind Aquarius Backpackers. On-site pool. Courses usually start Tu or F, but 2-weekend certification courses are sometimes offered. 4-day PADI certification $395. Snorkeling $50; intro dives $150, day dives $70-80, additional trips $70.
Byron Bay Dive Centre, 9 Marvel St. (☎02 6685 8333 or 1800 243 483; www.byronbaydivecentre.com.au), between Middleton and Fletcher St. 4-day SSI certification courses start M and Th $395; 4hr. intro dives $150, day dives $80, additional trips $70; snorkeling $50. Seasonal 2hr. whale watching trips $75.
Cape Byron Kayaks (☎02 6680 9555; www.capebyronkayaks.com). 3hr. trips around the Cape with afternoon tea. Free return trip if you don’t see dolphins, whales, or turtles. Free pickup from your accommodations. Trips in summer 8:30am-11:30am and 1pm-4pm; times vary May-Aug., so call ahead. Book 1 day ahead. $60.

In The Sky

Soaring Adventures (☎02 6684 7572 or 04 1455 8794; www.byronbaygliding.com). Learn to fly a glider. Flights to lighthouse, Cape Byron, or Mt. Warning. $95-395.
Flightzone Hang Gliding School (☎02 6685 8768 or 04 0844 1742; www.flightzone.com.au). 30min. flights $140. 10-day certification course $1500. Cash only.
Byron Bay Ballooning (☎02 6684 7880; www.byronbayballooning.com), near the Tyagarah Airfield 6km north of Byron Bay. Offers sunrise flights over the beautiful Rainbow Region, followed by a champagne breakfast. 4hr. experience, 1hr. flight. Call about pickup from your accommodations. Adults $295.
Circus Arts Byron Bay, 17 Centennial Circuit (☎02 6685 6566; www.circusarts.com.au), in the Arts and Industrial Estate. You can run away to the circus after a 1½hr. flying trapeze class ($45), or work on the low trapeze, silks and aerial hoop in the $20 adult aerial session. Times vary by season. Call to arrange bus pickups.

Other Activities

Byron Bay Bicycles, 93 Jonson St. (☎02 6685 6067), in the Woolworths shopping plaza. ½-day $22, full day $28, $95 weekly. $50 deposit includes helmet and lock.
Mountain Biking Tours (☎1800 122 504; www.mountainbiketours.com.au), takes full-day guided mountain bike tours through the rainforest with lunch included. Adults $99. Mountain bike rentals $33 per day, $90 per week.
Seahorse Riding Centre (☎02 6680 8155; www.seahorsesbyronbay.com), 20min. west of Byron. Offers ½- and full-day packages. Available trips include rainforest rides, beach rides, and pony trots for children. $60-$100.