Lismore Overview

Forty-five kilometers inland from Byron Bay, Lismore (pop. 46,000) has soaked up nearby Nimbin’s hippie vibe, offering visitors a laid-back atmosphere in a more urban environment. Students at Southern Cross University help to promote Lismore’s first-rate art scene and vegetarian/vegan activism. Outside the town center, three World Heritage rainforests and the volcanic remains at Mt. Warning National Park beckon nature-loving backpackers. The disproportionately high number of rainbows (due to the position of local valleys) and a GLBT-friendly community have earned this area the nickname “Rainbow Region.” Though not much of a tourist town, Lismore has great eateries.

Transportation. The railway station is on Union St. Countrylink (☎13 22 32) travels to Brisbane (3hr., 1 per day, $28) and Sydney through Casino (12hr., 2 per day, $81). The Transit Centre (☎02 6621 8620) is on the corner of Molesworth and Magellan St. Premier (☎02 9281 2233; www.premierms.com.au) sends two buses daily to Brisbane (5hr., $37) and one to Sydney (12hr., $90). The best way to get around is to rent a car. Options include Avis, corner of Three Chain Rd. and Bruxner Hwy. (☎02 6621 9002); Budget, 106 Conway St. (☎02 6622 1900); Hertz, 49 Dawson St. (☎02 6621 8855 or 13 30 39), and Thrifty, 2/31 Dawson St. (☎02 6622 2266 or 1300 367 227). For a taxi, call ☎13 10 08.

Orientation And Practical Information. In the hinterlands west of Ballina, Lismore lies off the Bruxner Hwy. (called Ballina Rd. in town) just east of Wilsons River. Approaching the river from the east, Ballina Road crosses Dawson, Keen, and Molesworth Streets, the busiest part of town. Perpendicular to these streets in the town center are small Conway and Magellan Streets. One block past Magellan St., Woodlark Street crosses the river to Bridge Street, leading to the north side of town and Nimbin.

At the corner of Molesworth and Ballina Rd., the Lismore Visitor Information Centre has a small indoor tropical rainforest and social history exhibit. (☎02 6626 0100 or 1300 369 795; www.visitlismore.com.au. Open daily 9:30am-4pm.) ATMs can be found in the town center. Internet access is available at the visitors center for $6 per hr. and at Armageddon Games, 70 Magellan St., for $4 per hr. (☎02 6621 5432. Open Tu-Th 11am-6pm, F 11am-10pm, Sa 10am-6pm, Su 11am-5pm.) The library, 110 Magellan St., charges $4.40 per hr., and Wi-Fi is available. (☎02 6622 2721. Open M-W 9:30am-5pm, Th-F 9:30am-7:30pm, Sa 9am-1pm.) Police (☎02 6621 0599) are on Zadoc St., and the Lismore Base Hospital is at 60 Uralba St. (☎02 6621 8000). A post office is on Conway St., between Molesworth and Keen St. (☎02 6627 7316. Open M-F 8:30am-5pm.) Postal Code: 2480.

Accommodations And Food. Budget accommodations are nearly impossible to find in Lismore. For a motel room, the Winsome Hotel , 42 Brunswick St., offers basic rooms with an on-site kitchen and pool. Follow Dawson St. north and turn right onto Brunswick St. (☎02 6621 7067; www.lismorepalms.com.au. Linen $5. Laundry $6. Sites for 2 $15-20; ensuite cabins $60-70. Weekly rates available. MC/V.)

Student demand for cheap vegetarian eats has resulted in some terrifically funky cafes. No cows are served at the vegan   20,000 Cows , 58 Bridge St. Surrounded by wild tablecloths, tall candlesticks, and comfy sofas, diners wolf down fresh pasta, and Indian and Middle Eastern food ($7-23). The eccentric menu reads, “All prices are suggested donations. Feel free to give yourself a discount,” though most guests pay full. For the indecisive eater, try the best of everything in the $16 Middle Eastern Combo. (☎02 6622 2517. Open W-Su from 6pm.) Goanna Bakery and Cafe , 171 Keen St., draws a devoted following, baking pies and making sandwiches for the gluten-free, vegetarian, and vegan communities. Especially popular is their ratatouille pie ($5, gluten-free $5.20). (☎02 6622 2629. Open M-F 8am-5:30pm, Sa 8am-3pm, Su 9am-2pm. MC/V.) For a meaty meal in an otherwise veggie town, try some pub grub at Winsome Hotel or another local spot. For groceries, head to Woolworths on Keen St., with a back entrance on Carrington St. (Open M-Sa 7am-9pm, Su 8am-8pm.)

Sights. The Richmond River Historical Society, 165 Molesworth St., in the Municipal Building, houses a natural history room with preserved baby crocs and mummified tropical birds, as well as a hallway of Aboriginal boomerangs. (☎02 6621 9993; www.richhistory.org.au. Open M-F 10am-4pm. $2.) Next door, the Regional Art Gallery hosts rotating exhibits. (☎02 6622 2209; www.lismore.nsw.gov.au/gallery. Open Tu-Sa 10am-4pm, Th 10am-6pm. Free.) Tucki Tucki Nature Reserve, which doubles as a koala sanctuary, is 15min. from Lismore on Wyrallah Rd. Lismore’s water supply comes from the Rocky Creek Dam, home to a waterfront boardwalk and platypus lagoon. Look out for platypuses from the Pontoon Bridge during dusk hours. To protect the endangered Fleay’s Barred Frog, don’t go swimming. To get there, take Tweed St. from the north side of town about 30km. For fresh produce and organic goods, visit the Rainbow Region Organic Markets, held every Tuesday 8am-11am in the Lismore Showgrounds on the north side of town off of Tweed St. Every Saturday from 8am to noon, the Lismore Farmers Market takes place at the Showgrounds. For the antique dealers and bric-a-brac shoppers, the Lismore Car Boot Market (first and third Su of the month), in the covered Lismore Shopping Square, is a paradise.