Mount Warning And Border Ranges Overview

The stony spire of Mt. Warning resembles a gigantic   thumbs-up from the south and an elephant’s head from the north. Captain Cook named the promontory in 1770 to warn European travelers that they were approaching Australia’s rocky shoals at Point Danger. Formerly a shield volcano, most of the ancient lava flows have eroded away, leaving behind an enormous caldera—the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. The prominent spire in the middle of the caldera represents the volcano’s erosion-resistant central chamber, which serves as a plug over the volcano’s core. Many hikers tackle the Summit Track (8.8km, 4-5hr. round-trip) on Mt. Warning in early-morning darkness in order to be the first on the continent to greet the dawn. The climb to the peak is moderate to strenuous. The last segment is a fun, frenzied 200m vertical rock scramble with a chain handrail, but the spectacular sunrise and fantastic 360˚ view make your effort more than worthwhile. The drier winter season (June-Nov.) offers the best chance for clear skies. You’ll need a flashlight for the sunrise climb; though there are often fireflies, don’t count on them to light the way. A good jacket or sweater and change of shirt and socks are advisable—you’ll work up a sweat on the climb, but the summit can be chilly even when the sun is up.

Camping on Mt. Warning is not allowed. The nearest hostel is the Murwillumbah YHA . The Mount Warning Caravan Park , on Mt. Warning Rd., 2km from the junction with Kyogle Rd., also makes a great base for exploring the mountain and surrounding areas. (☎02 6679 5120; www.mtwarningholidaypark.com. TV room, pool, camp kitchen, BBQ, and a few friendly wallabies. Linen $5. Reception 8am-5pm. Sites $20, powered $24; cabins $65, ensuite $95. Extra person $6-8. Weekly rates available. MC/V.)

To reach the Summit Track from Murwillumbah, take Tourist Route 32 that follows Kyogle Rd. 12km west, turn on Mt. Warning Rd., and go about 6km to Breakfast Creek. The peak is also accessible by bus from Murwillumbah Town Centre, leaving at 7:10am and returning at 5pm (inquire at the information center for more details). The Murwillumbah YHA offers free transport to the mountain base for guests staying three or more nights. The incredibly fit could also bike the track, a 30km round trip with an 8.8km hike.

If you find Mt. Warning too overrun, the 32,000 gorgeous hectares of Border Ranges National Park offer extravagant views that rival those of its more-touristed neighbor. (Call the parks office at ☎02 6632 0000 for more info.) Though farther than some other parks, Border Ranges rewards intrepid travelers with the shade of a lush canopy and great vantage points for viewing the volcano region. To get to Border Ranges, take the Kyogle Rd. west from Murwillumbah for 44km; 5.2km past the turnoff to Nimbin marks the start of the signposted Tweed Range Scenic Drive (60km, 4-5hr.). The Barker Vale turnoff leads 15km along gravel road to the park entrance. The drive exits the park at Wiangaree, 13km from Kyogle and 66km from Murwillumbah. The first picnic area in the park is Bar Mountain, with a lovely beech glade. Less than 1km away is the remarkable Blackbutts picnic area, with striking views of Mt. Warning and the basin. Another 8km north, Pinnacle Lookout offers a similarly spectacular view. To reach the Forest Tops camping area , travel 4km past the lookout, turn left at the junction, go another 4km, and turn left again ($5, children $3). If you turn right instead of left at this last junction, you’ll wind up at the Brindle Creek picnic area, the departure point for the Brindle Creek Walk (10km round-trip; 3-4hr.), a track that winds among rainforests and waterfalls and ends at the Antarctic Beech picnic area, home to 2000 year-old trees. For a shorter scenic trip, turn off Kyogle Rd. at Doon Doon Rd., 1km past Uki Village, and head to Cram’s Farm picnic area, a delightful spot on the lake. Travel farther down Doon Doon Rd., turn right at Doon Doon Hall, and follow the path down to its deadend to catch a glimpse of Doughboy, a smaller volcanic plug.