Kilauea Overview

Sprawling pastures, organic farms, and grassy bluffs shape Kilauea (pop. 2092). Many of Hawaii’s former plantation towns have embraced tourism after agriculture’s decline, but not Kilauea. This eclectic, peaceful North Shore community is home to a motley collection of Hawaiian families, wandering surfers, and dreadlocked hippies, and is best known for its seabird refuge and lighthouse.

Kilauea is centered on Kilauea Road, which begins 100 yd. down Kolo Road, 1 mi. north of mi. marker 23. Kilauea Rd. runs 2-3 mi. northeast to Kilauea Point, the northernmost point in the major islands. The Kong Lung Center, on Kilauea Rd., at Keneke Rd., has restaurants and shops. Shell, on the right as you turn off the highway into Kilauea, is the only highway gas station between Kapaa and Princeville. (Open daily 6am-7pm.) Next door, the Menehune Food Mart has groceries and an ATM inside. (Open M-F 5:30am-7pm, Sa-Su 6am-7pm.)

Accommodations

There aren’t many places to stay in Kilauea. Vacation rentals are available through www.vrbo.com, where a search can be done for Kilauea. An old sugar plantation house from the 1920s, Aloha Plantation , 4481 Malulani St., is a charming B&B complete with vintage posters and appliances. Turn onto Kolo Rd. from the highway and turn right onto Malulani after 1mi.; Aloha Plantation is the third house on the left. Guests can use the outdoor kitchen, shower, jacuzzi, and communal dining area. (☎877-658-6977 or 808-828-1693; www.alohaplantation.com. Doubles $69-99; additional guest $10. Cash or check only.)

Food

Kilauea’s few restaurants aren’t ideal for the budget conscious traveler. But by featuring incomparably fresh ingredients from the surrounding fertile valleys, some might warrant the expense. You can also do it yourself by buying organic herbs at the Sunshine Market (Th 4:30pm), in the Neighborhood Center parking lot next to Kilauea Town Market and Deli.

• Lighthouse Bistro, 2484 Keneke St. (☎808-828-0480), in Kong Lung Center. This open-air bistro serves delicately flavored dishes including pineapple pork medallions ($19), filet mignon ($34), fresh fish (grilled, blackened, or ginger crusted; $26), and salads featuring local produce ($10-15), with an extensive wine list and mixed drinks (Mai Tais $7, martinis $6.50-7.50). Live music nightly, M-W and F-Su. All-you-can-eat pasta ($15). Open M-Sa noon-2:30pm and 5:30-9pm, Su 5:30-9pm. MC/V.
• Kilauea Bakery and Pau Hana Pizza (☎808-828-2020), in Kong Lung Center. A wide selection of coffees and teas complements gourmet pastries. Pizzas topped with healthy tofurella, spinach, local fish, or good old Italian sausage and pepperoni delight customers (3 toppings, 12” $20, 16” $27.50). Try their Hawaiian sourdough bread with soup or the Big Kilauea salad made with organic veggies ($8.50). Bakery open daily 6:30am-9pm. Pizza served 10:30am-9pm. MC/V.
• Kilauea Fish Market, 4270 Kilauea Lighthouse Rd. (☎808-828-6244), in the rear of the Kilauea Plantation Center. Signed photos of Kauai’s grateful surf pros adorn the walls of this hidden health-conscious deli. Brown rice and organic veggies can accompany grilled fish ($12-15) or BBQ chicken ($10) for a contemporary twist on the traditional plate lunch. Take an ahi wrap ($10) to the beach and you might just want to add your gushing words to their wall. Open M-Sa 11am-8pm. MC/V.
• Banana Joe’s (☎808-828-1092). Look for the yellow sign on the mauka (mountain) side of the highway, just north of town. Housed in a yellow plantation-era building, this fruit stand stocks island produce, locally-made jams, dressings, and granola ($3-6) You’ll be amazed at the pineapple frostie ($3.75). The smoothie ($3-4) hits the spot after a long highway drive. Open M-Sa 9am-5:30pm. Cash only.

Beaches

Winding mountain roads hide spectacularly secluded beaches and beguiling waterfalls. Most of the best beaches lie west of Kilauea in the town of Kalihiwai. Kalihiwai Rd., once a U-shaped loop bridging the Kalihiwai River, was split when its bridge was destroyed by a tsunami in the 1950s. The split in the road is at the base of Kalihiwai Bay, on the shore of Kalihiwai Beach, leaving nearby Hanapai Beach inaccessible save from the other direction.

  Secret Beach.  (Surfing. Open daily 24hr.) Officially Kauapea Beach, this formerly hidden spot has outgrown its mysterious nickname, and the parking area can barely hold the rows of shiny rental cars. Secret Beach’s magnetic appeal is in its irresistible scenery: a vast expanse of powdery golden sand with lava rocks surrounded by bluffs and a fetching view of Kilauea Point. The beach, one of the widest on the island, also features strong breaks enjoyed by surfers and bodyboarders alike. ( From the base of the trail, the sands stretch to the east where a sheltered cove and gently sloping shore provide safer swimming. From Hwy. 56 North, turn right on the first Kalihiwai Rd., just before mi. marker 24; turn right again at the first dirt road. After 1 mi., the road ends in a parking area. From here, follow a steep, well-marked trail for 5min. to the beach.)

Kalihiwai Beach And Hanapai Beach.  (Bodyboarding. Surfing. Open daily 24hr.) Bodyboarders and surfers enjoy the right point break wave, while local families favor the beach for weekend picnics. A wide sandy crescent continues to the west on the other side of the river mouth, which can be a chore to cross in high surf. The smaller, western portion of the beach, known as Hanapai Beach, is also accessible from Anini Rd. The sandy river provides a nice place to splash around, and a short rope swing keeps kids entertained. It is more secluded than the main section of Kalihiwai Beach; a trip to this section is probably not worth the trouble unless you’re very curious or in need of quiet. Take the first Kalihiwai Rd. to the end and park under the trees facing the beach, or the second Kalihiwai Rd. and park in the small lot at the end on the left before wading across the shallow river to the beach.

Anini Beach Park.  (Snorkeling. Surfing. Wind sports. Open daily sunrise to sunset.) The golden sand of Anini Beach is stretched thin as it covers the coastline for almost 2 mi. around a wide, shallow lagoon of clear, reef-protected water. Swimmers and snorkelers frolic at the east end, while boat owners, surfers, and windsurfers occupy the water to their left. County campgrounds (closed Tu) with spacious beachfront sites, restrooms, and showers, are available at the east end. (See Camping in Hawaii.) The lawn behind the park has pavilions, picnic tables, and grills. The flat shore and incredibly calm summer water make Anini one of Kauai’s safest swimming beaches.

Shallow turquoise waters and the warm offshore breeze are so inviting that everyone will want to try windsurfing. A veteran with almost 20 years of teaching experience, Celeste at Windsurf Kauai takes small groups (up to six) out on the lagoon. A 3hr. introductory lesson, open to competent swimmers ages 5 and up, includes 1hr. on a land simulator before 2hr. on the water. Those who catch the windsurfing bug can take a second 3hr. lesson that focuses on advanced skills and qualifies students for certification. Rentals ($25 per hr.; $65 per 3hr.) are also available. 3hr. windsurfing lesson $85, including equipment; students meet Celeste at the beach. ( ☎808-828-6838 To reach the beach, head toward the ocean on the west Kalihiwai Rd., between mi. markers 25 and 26, and turn left on Anini Rd., which runs north to the shore and then west along the length of the beach.)

Sights

Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge. The historic Kilauea Lighthouse and the wild bird population are featured in the Kilauea National Wildlife Refuge. Built in 1913, the Kilauea Lighthouse guided commercial boats on their way to Asia. Although decommissioned in 1976, the 52 ft. tall lighthouse retains its giant clamshell lens, the largest in the world, and an unbeatable view of the frothing blue ocean from 217 ft. above sea level. Today, a small beacon light next to the lighthouse offers guidance to local boaters and aircraft. Though visitors are only allowed into the first floor of the lighthouse, the old communications building has a historical display, a video, reference books, and articles about the lighthouse and refuge for those interested.

The various birds that inhabit the refuge include red-footed boobies (the most visible species in the refuge; visible year-round), great frigatebirds with distinctive long forked tail (visible year-round), the endangered nene (the official state bird; visible year-round), the enormous laysan albatross (Dec.-July), pacific golden plovers (Aug.-Apr.), and wedge-tailed shearwaters (summer). Humpback whales (Nov.-May), spinner dolphins, endangered monk seals, and sea turtles are commonly seen from shore.

Inaccessible to man and a favorite roosting spot for birds, Mokuaeae Rock forms an island about 100 yd. north of the point. An old story claims that Mokuaeae Rock was the first American possession in Hawaii, lost by King Kalakaua in a poker game to an American ambassador long before Hawaii became the 50th state. The visitor-accessible part of the refuge consists of a Visitors Center and a quarter-mile sidewalk from the parking lot to the lighthouse. Those who want a closer look at birds can sign out binoculars from the Visitors Center. Guided hikes up Crater Hill are available through the Kilauea Point Natural History Association. (At the end of Kilauea Rd. ☎808- 828-0168; www.kilaueapoint.org. Refuge open daily 10am-4pm. $5, under 16 free. Tours $20.)

Entertainment

Paina O Hanalei Luau is the Princeville Hotel’s extravagant beachside luau. The feast offers 6 main courses of Hawaiian favorites, but a show-only option like Smith’s is a better bet. (☎808-826-2788. M and Th 6-9pm. Dinner and show $99, seniors and ages 13-19 $90, ages 6-12 $45.) Instead, head to Happy Talk Lounge, 5380 Honoiki Rd., which offers live entertainment Tuesday through Sunday. Coconut shrimp ($11), pizza ($13.50-16.50), Caesar salad ($9), and fresh sashimi (market price) are all reasonably priced. (☎808-826-6522. Hawaiian M-F 6:30-9. Jazz or Blues Sa 7-9:30. Jazz Su 4-7pm. Happy hour F-Sa 4-6pm, discounted drinks vary. Kitchen open daily 2-9pm. AmEx/MC/V.)