}Moskenesøya Overview

Near the southern tip a highway, the quiet island of Moskenesøya (pop. 1200) houses both 19th-century fishing communities and eco-adventure tourism.

Moskenes. Frequent ferries from Bodø make Moskenes a crossroads for tourists. Moskenes Harbour Tourist Office, in the red building at the ferry landing, helps with tour reservations. Pick up a guide to Lofoten. (☎76 09 15 99; www.lofoten-info.no. Internet 1kr per min. Open mid-June-mid-Aug. daily 9am-7pm; early May-mid-June and late Aug. M-F 10am-5pm. March, April, Sept. M-F 10am-noon.) Booking an adventure boat tour (☎90 77 07 41; 400-900kr), guided hike (contact tourist office), or fishing trip with locals (from Reine ☎91 34 55 99, from Å 97 75 60 21; 500kr) requires calling at least a few days ahead. A thrilling   boat safari is well worth the expense (6hr.; 900kr). The trip takes 12 passengers through the Maelstrom, past the fishing hamlet of Hell (where Hell can actually freeze over), and into the ancient Refsvikhula caves . (☎98 01 75 64; www.lofoten-info.no.) Although challenging and sparsely marked, mountain hikes are the primary attraction in the region; make sure you have the proper gear and pick up a map at the tourist office. A 3hr. trek heads to the DNT’s (Norwegian Mountain Touring Association) Munkebu cabin, a good place to spend the night. DNT membership and a 300kr deposit are required for key rental. Members may bring guests. If you’re not a member, go to KIN Trykk, Ramberg (☎76 09 34 20), where you pick up the key and try to convince the man who oversees the cabin that you’re a reliable person; he may let you stay without membership. (200kr per night, under 25 100kr. Members 100/50kr.) Keys also available at Sørvågen Handel (☎76 09 12 15). If you brought a tent, pitch it just up the hill from the dock at Moskenes Camping (☎99 48 94 05).

Å. South of Moskenes, the fishing village of Å (“OH”) takes great pride in being first alphabetically among world cities. Experienced hikers can tackle the 8hr. Stokkvikka hike. Bring a map and head down the southern bank of Lake Ågvatnet and up 400m to cross the Stokkvikskaret Pass. To relax on the region’s sandy beaches, take the bus from Moskenesøya to Reine and catch a ferry (100kr) to Vinstad. An easy, well-marked trail follows the fjord to the water. The Norsk Fiskeværsmuseum has displays on the island’s maritime mainstay—cod fishing—in six village buildings. (☎76 09 14 88. Open mid-June to mid-Aug. daily 10:30am-5:30pm; mid-Aug. to mid-June M-F 11am-3:30pm. 50kr, students 25kr. AmEx/MC/V.) Off the E10 highway is the Stockfish Musuem, a place to visit for its unique owner and a novel experience. (☎76 09 12 11. mid-June-mid-Aug. 10am-5pm, off season reduced hours. 40kr, student 25. Cash only.) Visitors can rent rooms in the private fishing lodges by the dock. Å Hennvmgarden Independent Hostel has beds and small rorbuer cabins for groups of four or more. (☎76 09 12 11. Reception June-Sept. 10am-10pm; call ahead at other times. Cabins 490-1080kr. Summer hostel beds 110kr. 80kr towels and sheets. AmEx/MC/V.) Å Dagligvarer A/S sells groceries. (☎76 09 23 06. Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa 9am-5pm, Su 4-7pm. MC/V.) Buses depart from behind the tourist office for Moskenes center (15min., 2-4 per day, 26kr).