}Vestvågøy Overview

Northeast of Moskenesøya, the island of Vestvågøy (pop. 11,000) is home to some of the chain’s most striking scenery. Flights from Bodø and most buses arrive in Leknes, one of the largest towns in the island chain. Local favorite Surprise Cafe , Idrettgaten 27, offers a mix of American and Scandinavian cuisine and serves beer (45kr), as well as the ubiquitous hot baguette sandwich (41kr, large 75kr), stuffed with ham and cheese. (☎76 08 15 10. Open M-F 10am-5pm, Sa 11am-4pm. MC/V.) The tourist office, Storgata 31 in Leknes, helps travelers understand options for transportation, accommodation, and adventure. (☎76 05 60 70. vvak@online.no. Sept-mid-May M-F 9am-3:30pm, mid-May-mid-June M-F 9am-4pm, Sa 10am-2pm, mid-June-mid-Aug. M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-2pm.) The sparsely populated town of Stamsund is a port for the Hurtigruten steamer. Stein Tinden (500m) and Justad Tinden (732m), nearby peaks, are both 6hr. round-trip hikes and provide panoramic views. In June and early July, visitors can tan into the wee hours under the midnight sun, while clear nights in late autumn or early spring may reveal the   Northern Lights. The comfy common rooms at   Stamsund Vandrerhjem (HI) have kindled enough friendships between travelers to earn the hostel a national reputation. (☎76 08 93 34. Showers 5kr per 5min. Linens and towel 70kr or 40kr disposable linens. Laundry 30kr. Dryer 20kr. Bike rental 100kr per day. Fishing gear 100kr deposit. Free use of rowboats. Wheelchair-accessible. Open mid-Dec. to mid-Oct. Dorms 120kr; doubles 400kr; triples 480kr; cabins 400-700kr. 20kr HI discount. Cash only.) Given the sporadic bus schedules, a rental car may be the way to go. Rent from an agency at Stamsund Hotel, Postboks 89 (☎76 08 93 00; 300-800kr per day).