Tromsø Overview

Dubbed the “Paris of the Arctic” by explorers in awe of its cosmopolitan flair, Tromsø (pop. 63,500) exudes a worldliness that belies its chilly location. The town is a base for exploring Norway’s northern mountains and lakes.

Transportation And Practical Information.  Flights leave from Tromso airport ( TOS; ☎67 03 46 00). The Hurtigruten boat travels to Stamsund, in the Lofoten Islands (20hr.; departs from Stamsund 7:30pm, from Tromsø 1:30am; 1074kr, students 537kr). Buses go to Narvik (4hr.; 2-3 per day; 370kr, students and Scanrail holders 185kr), a transportation hub for Finnish and Swedish destinations. The tourist office, Kirkegata 2, books dogsled, glacier, rafting, whale watching trips, and more. (☎77 61 00 00; www.visittromso.no. Open mid-May-Aug. M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm; Sept.-mid-May M-F 9am-4pm, Sa 10am-4pm.) The cheapest tour (495kr) goes by bus from behind the tourist office, through the Lyngen Alps to the island of Skjervøy. (In summer leaves 2:10pm and 4:00pm, both return at 11:45pm.) Most city buses leave from downtown along Havnegata and Fredrik Langes Gate. Get a schedule from the tourist office. (24kr). Postal Code: 9253.

Accommodations And Food.   Fjellheim Sommerhotell , Mellomvegen 96, has the best lodging. The dorms are basic, but the hostel offers 24hr. make-your-own waffles. (Take bus #37 or walk along Mellomvegen. ☎77 75 55 60; www.fjellheimsommerhotell.no. Linens included. Internet 25kr per hr., Wi-Fi 100kr per stay. Laundry 25kr. Reception 24hr. Open mid-June to mid-Aug. Book ahead in late June. Dorms 250kr; singles 500kr, 600 w/bath; doubles 700kr, 900kr w/bath. AmEx/MC/V.) , Storgata 42, for a variety of cafe fare. (☎77 68 61 50. M-Th 12-1:30am, F-Sa 12-3:00am, Su 1-1:30am. AmEx/MC/V.) Stock up on groceries at Spar, Storgata 63 (☎77 62 84 00. Open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 9am-7pm) or the larger Spar, open later (M-Sa until 11pm and Su until 8pm) further down Storengata.

Sights And Hiking. The tour at the Mack Brewery introduces visitors to beer-making with hilarious tour guides and samples of Mack beer. (Storgata 4-13. ☎77 62 45 80; www.mack.no. 45 min. English-language tours leave from Øllhallen at Storgata 4 June-Aug. M-Th 1 and 3:30pm; Sept.-May M-Th 1pm. 150kr; includes 1 beer.) If you like your sightseeing superheated, Blåst, a glass-blowing factory, gives free demonstrations. (Peder Hansens gt. 4. ☎77 68 34 60; www.blaast.no. Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 10am-3pm.) Tromsø University Museum delves into geology and the indigenous Sámi culture. (Take bus #37 from the city center or walk south along Mellomvegen for 30min. ☎77 64 50 00; www.tmu.uit.no. Open daily June-Aug. 9am-6pm; Sept.-May M-F 9-3:30, Sa 12-3pm, Su 11am-5pm. 30kr, students 15kr. MC/V.) The Polaria is a interactive museum and aquarium focused on Arctic ecosystems. (Hjarlmar Johansens gt. 12, right off Strandvegen Storgata transition. ☎77 75 01 11; www.polaria.no. Open daily mid-May to mid-Aug. 10am-7pm; mid-Aug. to mid-May noon-5pm. 95kr, students 60kr. AmEx/MC/V.) To see the midnight sun in June and early July, take the Fjellheisen cable car, Solliveien 12, a 10min. walk from the Arctic Cathedral, 420m to the top of Mt. Storsteinen. Bus 26 takes you to the cable car and offers you a discount if you buy your cable car ticket from the bus driver. (☎77 63 87 37; www.fjellheisen.no. Daily 2 per hr. 95kr., students 70kr.) The view from the top is spectacular and offers hiking trails around the mountain. Hikers looking for a challenge can trek to Treriksrøysa, and stand in Finland, Norway, and Sweden all at once—the   budget-friendly way to say “I toured all of Scandinavia.”

Festivals And Nightlife. The Tromsø International Film Festival is Norway’s largest, attracting over 50,000 visitors annually (Jan. 13-18, 2009; ☎77 75 30 90; www.tiff.no). The following week, the Northern Lights Festival showcases classic music under the aurora borealis. Sámi National Day (Feb. 6) culminates in a reindeer race through the city center. Tromsø is a university town famous for its nightlife, which centers on Storgata and the side streets Strandskillet and Grønnegata. Drop in for tapas or a cappuccino at Åpen Bar (Open Bar), Grønnegata 81, a relaxed, candlelit lounge and bar. (☎77 68 46 00. Beer 61kr. Sept.-May F-Sa DJ. 20+, W 18+. Cover F 50kr., Sa 70kr. Restaurant open Tu-Th 4pm-midnight, F 3pm-3:30am, Sa 2pm-3:30am, kitchen closes at 10. Nightclub open W, F-Sa 10pm-3:30am. AmEx/MC/V.)