Basel (Bâle) Overview

Basel bills itself as Switzerland’s “cultural capital,” and though nearby Zürich might beg to differ, it’s hard to argue with the city’s lively medieval quarter and many museums. Basel is home to one of the oldest universities in Europe—former professors include Erasmus and Nietzsche.

Transportation And Practical Information. Basel has three train stations: the French (SNCF) and Swiss (SBB) stations on Centralbahnpl., near the Altstadt, and the German (DB) station across the Rhine (take tram #2 from the other train stations or connect directly from the SBB). Trains leave from the SBB to: Bern (1hr., 1-2 per hr., 37CHF); Geneva via Bern (3hr., every hr., 69CHF); Lausanne via Bern (2hr., every hr., 59CHF); Zürich (1hr., every 15-30min., 31CHF). The main tourist office is on Steinenbergstr. in the Stadt Casino building (from the SBB station, take #6, 8, 14, 16, or 17 to Barfüsserpl.). There is also a branch in the SBB station. (Both offices: ☎061 268 6868; www.baseltourismus.ch. Open M-F 8:30am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-5pm, Su 10am-4pm.) For info on GLBT establishments, stop by the bookstore Arcados, Rheing. 69. (☎061 681 3132; www.arcados.com. Open Tu-F 1-7pm, Sa noon-4pm.) To reach the post office, Rüdeng. 1, take tram #1 or 8 to Marktpl. and backtrack away from the river. (Open M-F 7:30am-9pm, Sa 8am-5pm, Su 2-7pm.)

Accommodations And Food. All local hostels provide free city transportation cards. Conveniently located near the train station, T YMCA Hostel Basel , Gempenstr. 6, offers a great value. Exit through the back entrance of the SBB station. cross the street and continue straight on Gempenstr. (☎061 361 7309; www.ymcahostelbasel.ch. Breakfast 7CHF. Free Wi-Fi. Reception open 7-11am and 3:30-11:30pm. Single-sex dorms 29CHF. AmEx/MC/V.) The Jugendherberge (HI) , St. Alban-Kirchrain 10, is located near the Rhine in a beautiful 19th-century building. To get there, take tram #2 or 15 to Kunstmuseum, turn right on St. Alban-Vorstadt, then follow the signs. (☎061 272 0572; www.youthhostel.ch/basel. Breakfast included. Laundry 7CHF. Internet 6CHF per hr. Reception Mar.-Oct. 7-10am and 2pm-midnight; Nov.-Feb. 7-10am and 2-11pm. Dorms 36-40CHF; doubles 94CHF; quads 160CHF. 6CHF HI discount. AmEx/MC/V.) Basel Back Pack , Dornacherstr. 192, is far from the Altstadt, but easily accessible with public transportation. To reach it, walk out the back entrance of the SBB station, turn left on Güterst., then turn right onto Brudenholzst. at Tellpl. The hostel is in the complex on your left after a block. (☎061 333 0037; www.baselbackpack.ch. Laundry 6CHF. Internet 1CHF per 5min. Reception 8-11:30am, 2-6pm, and 8-10:30pm. Dorms 32CHF; singles 80CHF; doubles 98CHF; triples 126CHF; quads 156CHF. AmEx/MC/V; min. 60CHF.)

Barfüsserplatz and Marktplatz are full of satisfying restaurants.   Restaurant Hirscheneck , Lindenberg 23 in Klein-Basel, is popular with students, vegetarians, and Basel’s alternative crowd. Take tram #2 or 15 to Wettsteinpl., then walk back towards the river and turn right on Kartausg. (☎061 692 7333; www.hirscheneck.ch. Daily menu 12-24CHF. Smaller portions 9-15CHF. Su brunch 10am-4pm. Open M 2pm-midnight, Tu-Th 11am-midnight, F 11am-1am, Sa 2pm-1am, Su 10am-midnight. Cash only.) On the other bank of the Rhine off Barfüsserpl., Café Barfi , Steinenberg 1. (☎061 271 8068; www.namamen.ch. Ramen and Udon noodle dishes 15.50-20.50CHF. Sushi and other small entrees 4.50-9.50CHF. Bento boxes 16-17.50CHF. Open M-Th 11am-10pm, F 11am-11pm, Sa noon-10pm, Su 4pm-10pm. Cash only.) Brauerei Fischerstube , Rheing. 45, serves intoxicating dishes such as beer soup. (☎061 692 6635. Beer 4.30CHF. Full dinner menu 42CHF, served from 6pm. Open M-Th 10am-12:30am, F-Sa 10am-1:30am, Su 5pm-midnight. AmEx/MC/V.) Groceries are available at the Migros in the SBB station. (Open M-F 6am-10pm, Sa-Su 7:30am-10pm.)

Sights. The Rhine separates Groß-Basel (Greater Basel) and the SBB/SNCF train stations from Klein-Basel (Lesser Basel). Behind the Marktpl., the nearly 800-year-old Mittlere Rheinbrücke (Middle Rhine Bridge) connects the two halves of the city. To get to the Old Town from the train station, take tram #16 or 8. The very red Rathaus (City Hall) brightens the lively Marktplatz with its blinding facade and striking gold-and-green statues. Behind Marktpl. stands the red sandstone Münster (Cathedral), where you can see the tomb of Erasmus or climb the tower for a spectacular view of the city. (Church open Easter to mid-Oct. M-F 10am-5pm, Sa 10am-4pm, Su 11:30am-5pm; mid-Oct. to Easter M-Sa 11am-4pm, Su 11:30am-4pm. Church free. Tower 3CHF.) Get off at the Theater stop to see the spectacular   Jean Tinguely Fountain, also known as the Fasnachtsbrunnen. The fountain’s various moving metal parts spray water in all directions. From Marktpl., walk up to the University Quarter. Nearby looms the huge Spalentor, a remnant of the medieval city’s fortifications.

Museums. Basel has over 30 museums; pick up a comprehensive guide at the tourist office. The Basel Card, also available at the tourist office, provides admission to most museums, free sightseeing tours, and other discounts. (1-day 20CHF, 2-day 27CHF, 3-day 35CHF.) The   Kunstmuseum (Museum of Fine Arts), St. Alban-Graben 16, houses Switzerland’s greatest collections of new and old masters. (Open Tu and Th-Su 10am-5pm, W 10am-7pm. 12CHF, students 5CHF. Free daily 4-5pm and 1st Su of each month.) Admission also includes access to the Museum für Gegenwartskunst (Museum of Modern Art), St. Alban-Rheinweg 60, which has changing exhibitions of contemporary work. Take tram #1 or 15 to the Kunstmuseum stop. (Open Tu-Su 11am-5pm.) If you thought the Jean Tinguely Fountain was intriguing, check out Museum Tinguely, Paul-Sacher-Anlage 1, where everything rattles in homage to the sculptor’s vision of metal and movement. Take tram #2 or 15 to Wettsteinpl., then bus #31 or 36 to Museum Tinguely. (☎061 681 9320; www.tinguely.ch. Open Tu-Su 11am-7pm. 15CHF, students 10CHF.) The Fondation Beyeler, Baselstr. 101, has one of Europe’s finest private art collections. (☎061 645 9700; www.beyeler.com. Open M-Tu and Th-Su 10am-6pm, W 10am-8pm. 23CHF, students 12CHF. 30% discount M and W 5-8pm. AmEx/MC/V.)

Festivals And Nightlife. Basel’s Fasnacht (Mar. 2-4, 2009; Feb. 22-24, 2010) starts the week after Lent with the Morgestraich, a three-day parade with a centuries-old goal—to scare away winter. Head to Barfüsserplatz and the adjoining Steinenvorstadt for an evening of bar-hopping. Atlantis, Klosterberg 13, is a multi-level, sophisticated bar that plays reggae, jazz, and funk. (☎061 228 9696. Summer drink special 12.50CHF. Cover 10-15CHF; students with ID 5CHF discount; no cover F in summer. Open M 11:30am-2pm, Tu-Th 11:30am-2pm and 6pm-midnight, F 11:30am-2pm and 6pm-4am, Sa 6pm-4am. AmEx/MC/V.)