In the Middle Ages, Compiègne (kohm-pee-ehn; pop. 45,000) was a favorite summer haven among royalty. Louis XV and his lineage flocked to the Château de Compiègne, as did Napoleon I and III. Today, the hamlet is a retreat favored by Parisians, and its royal pedigree is still shamelessly apparent in opulent landmarks and imperial gardens. Compiègne offers the conveniences and entertainment of city life with the quiet atmosphere of a small country town.
Many moderately priced hotels surround the train station and rue Solférino. Unfortunately, there are no hostels or campgrounds in the city.
Food, like everything else in Compiègne, is concentrated around place de l’Hôtel de Ville, toward rue des Domeliers and along both sides of the Oise River, near the train station. Restaurants also fill the pedestrian district between rue Solférino and place du Marché. There’s a Monoprix supermarket at 33 rue Solférino. (☎03 44 40 04 52. Open M-Sa 8:30am-8:30pm, Su 9am-noon. AmEx/MC/V.)
Château De Compiègne. Formerly one of three royal residences for France’s kings, this château is the most famous landmark in town. Reconstructed in the 18th century at Louis XV’s command, the château became a favorite retreat of Napoleon I and Napoleon III. A tour of the grands appartements reveals sumptuous living quarters with lush bedrooms and a library that would make any bookworm drool. Look for the marble table into which an admonished young noble carved the date of his punishment in 1868 and the leopard-carpeted salle where Napoleon met his second wife. In addition to the gilded chambers and halls, the complex contains the first Renault automobile in its Musée de la Voiture, which showcases floors of chariots, classic cars, bicycles, and motorcycles. (Pl. du Général de Gaulle. ☎03 44 38 47 02; chateau.compiegne@culture.gouv.fr. Open M and W-Su 10am-6pm. Last entry 5:15pm. The museum and château are often only accessible by thorough French tours; call to ask about seeing the château without the tour. 1hr. tours every 20-30min. Reduced hours for the grands appartements tours Nov.-Feb. Wheelchair-accessible. Both tours €6.50, students and ages 18-25 €4.50, under 18 free; 1st Su of the month free.)
Parc Du Château. Behind the palace, the Parc du Château includes miles of breathtaking royal gardens designed by Berthault under Napoleon I. With shaded promenades, impeccably tended jardins, and open green expanses, the park’s natural beauty rivals the opulence of its neighboring château. (Entrance to the right of the château. Open daily from mid-Apr. to mid-Sept. 8am-6:45pm; from mid-Sept. to Oct. and from Mar. to mid-Apr. 8am-6pm; Nov.-Feb. 8am-5pm.)
Musée De La Figurine. This museum displays over 100,000 historic and military figurines, offering a quirky diversion from Compiègne’s grandeur. Hand-painted soldiers in full battle array shine with remarkable detail, while 8 in. giants sport tailored cloaks and hats. Look for the spectacular 4m by 4m scale representation of the Battle of Waterloo. (28 pl. de l’Hôtel de Ville. ☎03 44 40 72 55. Open Mar.-Oct. Tu-Sa 9am-noon and 2-6pm, Su 2-6pm; Nov.-Feb. Tu-Sa 9am-noon and 2-5pm. Wheelchair-accessible. €2, students €1, under 18 free; 1st Su of the month free.)
Église Saint-Jacques. History buffs interested in more than miniature recreations, rejoice; this 13th-century church is where Joan of Arc prayed the morning she was captured in 1430. (Pl. St-Jacques.)
The misty trails of the Forêt de Compiègne provide a maze of peaceful hiking trails and winding bike routes that span different skill levels. Ask at the tourist office for a detailed map of these well-marked paths (€9.50).
Château De Pierrefonds. A 12km stroll through the center of the forest ends at the dazzling Château de Pierrefonds. Bought by Napoleon I and marvelously restored by Viollet-le-Duc under Napoleon III, the medieval-style château is breathtaking. You can walk the ramparts, view the gallery, and visit the cavernous knight’s hall to get a sense of royal medieval life. (☎03 44 42 72 72; www.monum.fr. Château open May-Aug. daily 9:30am-6pm; Sept.-Apr. Tu-Su 10am-1pm and 2-5:30pm. Last entry 45min. before close. €6.10, students ages 18-25 €4.10, under 18 free.)
Wagon De L’Armistice. An alternate hiking route passes by the Wagon de l’Armistice. The museum recounts the history of the railway car in which the German army conceded defeat in WWI. The wagon witnessed the French do the same in 1940. (☎03 44 85 14 18. Open daily from Apr. to mid-Oct. 9am-12:30pm and 2-6pm; from mid-Oct. to Mar. 9am-noon and 2-5:30pm. €3, ages 7-14 €1.50, under 7 free.)
Théâtre Impérial, 3 rue Othenin, presents opera, ballet, and drama performances. (☎08 25 00 06 74; www.theatre-imperial.com. Tickets €8-68; major discounts with the €15 carte jeune. Office open July-Aug. M-F 8:30am-12:30pm and 2-6pm; Sept.-June M-F 8:30am-12:30pm and 2-6pm, Sa 9am-noon and 2-5pm; also open 1hr. before every show. MC/V.) Bars and pubs liven up the pedestrian district and the streets around place de l’Hôtel de Ville, especially near rue des Lombards.
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