During the peak of WWII (Sept. 1943-Apr. 1945), Salò (sa-LO; pop. 10,000) was the “Capital of a Divided Italy” and was declared the Republic of Salò as a last attempt by Mussolini and Hitler to reorganize fascism in Italy. Hotel Laurin was once Mussolini’s headquarters. The town, which is typically filled with yachters coming ashore, totally lacks affordable accommodations. If you seek stately allure and refined charm, try Salò as a daytrip from Sirmione or Desenzano. Head right toward the lake on Lungolago Zanardelli from the ferry stop to reach Salò’s beautiful Gothic Venetian duomo, built by Filippo della Vacche. Stand underneath the intensely realistic wooden crucifix, which hangs in the center and look into Jesus’s eyes. It almost seems as if you can see him exhale. (Open daily 8:30am-noon and 3:30-7pm. Free.) Two of the town’s three museums, Museo Archeologico and Museo Storico, V. Fantoni 49, offer a comprehensive and overarching historical account of the region. (☎29 68 34. Museo Storico open Su 10am-noon and 3-5pm. €4. Museo Archeologico M-F 10am-noon. €2.)
Transporti Brescia Nord Buses (☎0365 840 62 00 01) stop at the bus stop on V. Calsone, where it meets Vco. Oratorio. Buses serve Desenzano (30min., 6 per day 6:57am-6:27pm, €2.50), and Gardone (5min., 6 per day 6:33am-7:03pm, €1), continuing on to Limone (1hr., €3) and Riva (1hr., €3.45). Tickets can be purchased at the tabaccheria in front of the stop; if it is closed, purchase tickets on the bus for €1 extra. Navigazione Lago di Garda (☎0365 91 49 511; www.navigazionelaghi.it) runs ferries to Desenzano (4 per day 10:25am-4:27pm; €9.70, express €13.10), Riva (17 per day 9:20am-7:36pm; €3.40, express €5.20), and Sirmione (8 per day 8:56am-5:21pm; €9.70, express €13.10). From the ferry station, head inland and left through P. della Vittoria to reach the tourist office, P. Sant’Antonio 4, which offers a great map of the town. (}/fax 0365 21 423. Open daily 9:30am-1pm and 3-6:30pm.) Postal Code: 25087.
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