Trondheim Overview

More than a thousand years have passed since the Viking King Olav Tryggvason settled Trondheim (pop. 162,000) and made it Norway’s seat of power. Today, despite several destructive fires, it retains some of its medieval charm and serves as a gateway to the north. Nearly 30,000 university students call Trondheim home, giving its canals and restored townhouses a youthful energy.

Transportation And Practical Information.  Trains go to Bodø (11hr., 2 per day, 200-950kr) and Oslo (6hr., 4 per day, 200-900kr). Buses leave the train station for Ålesund (7-8hr.; 4 per day; 539kr, students 307kr) and Bergen (12hr.; 1 per day; night bus only; 751kr, students 563kr). The Hurtigruten boat departs daily at noon for Stamsund, in the Lofoten Islands (31hr.; 1997kr, 50% student discount). The tourist office is at Munkegata 19. The Trondheim City Card is also for sale (198kr), but offers mostly 2-for-1 discounts and is best for longer visits of two or more travelers. (☎73 80 76 60; www.visit-trondheim.com. Open June-Aug. M-F 8:30am-6pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm; Sept-May 8:30am-4:00pm, Sa 10am-2pm.) DNT (Norwegian Mountain Touring Association), Sandgata 30, has maps and hiking info. (☎73 92 42 00; www.tt.no. Open March-Sept. M-W and F 8am-4pm, Th 10am-6pm. Oct.-Feb. M-W, F 8am-4pm, Th 10am-4pm.)

Accommodations And Food.  Trondheim InterRail Center , Elgesetergata 1, in the Studentersamfundet , has a fun-loving mood and the cheapest prices around. Cross the bridge from the train station, walk south along Søndregata, and go right on Kongens gate. Turn left on Prinsensgata and go across the bridge — the hostel is behind the red building on your left. (☎73 89 95 38; www.tirc.no. Breakfast included. Linens 50kr and 50kr deposit. Free Internet. Open July 1 to Aug. 10. Dorms 150kr. 39kr beer, dinner 45kr. MC/V.) For a tidy budget option, stay at Lillegårdsbakken , off Øvre Bakklandet, uphill to Singsaker Sommerhotell, Rogertsgata 1. (☎73 89 31 00; http://sommerhotell.singsaker.no">http://sommerhotell.singsaker.no">http://sommerhotell.singsaker.no. Breakfast, linens, and towel included. 24hr. reception. Open mid-June to mid-Aug. Dorms 200kr; singles 410kr, private bath 520; doubles 620kr. 30kr bottle of beer. AmEx/MC/V.) If you’re not visiting in the summer, try the Trondheim Vandrerhjem , Weidemannsrei 41. Dorms 230kr; singles 490kr; doubles 620kr. 25kr student discount. Breakfast included. Towel 15kr, linens 65. Internet 2kr/min. Reception 7am-midnight, 24hr. key access.)

Gluttony may be one of the seven deadly sins, but that doesn’t detract from the appeal of the all-you-can-eat cake buffet (Su 1-7pm; 62kr) at Mormors Stue , off of Thomas Angells gate on Nedre Enkeltskillingsveita 2. After 5pm, beer is 34kr. (☎73 52 20 22. Open M-Sa 10am-11:30pm, Su 1-11:30pm. MC/V.) The early-bird dinner crowd snaps up fresh fish platters (125kr) at the riverside Den Gode Nabo , Øvre Bakklandet 66, just over the Old Town Bridge in a basement to the right. (☎73 40 61 88 09; www.dengodenabo.as. Dinner special daily 4-7pm. Make your own pizza and salad bar 99kr. Open daily 1pm-1:30am. MC/V.) Nearby, Cafe and Bar Bare Blåbær, Innherredsveien 16, serves burgers and their special stone oven pizza (99-129kr) until midnight—then becomes a lounge and bar. (☎73 53 30 33. Beer 63kr. 20+ after 6pm. Open M-Th and Su 11am-1:30am, F-Sa 11am-3:30am. AmEx/MC/V.)

Sights. Start in the north near the train station and head down Fjordgata to the Ravnkloa (fish market), where you can catch a ferry (June-Aug. daily 10am-6pm.10-15min. 50kr round-trip) to Munkholmen. The island is now popular for its attractive beaches.   Nidaros Cathedral, in the southern end of the city, tops the list of churches to visit in Norway. The whole edifice sits on King Olof’s (Norway’s patron saint) tomb. (☎73 92 44 70; www.nidarosdomen.no. May-early June M-F 9-3pm, Sa 9-2pm, Su 1-4pm; early June-mid-Aug. M-F 9-6, Sa 9-2, Su 1-4; mid-Aug.-mid Sept. M-F 9-3, Sa 9-2, Su 1-4; mid-Sept.-Apr. M-F 12-2:30, Sa 11:30-2, Su 1-3. Organ concerts mid-June to mid-Aug. M-Sa 1; mid-Aug. to mid-June Sa 1pm. Music services mid-June to mid-Aug. M-F 5:40pm. Low-season free, otherwise 50kr. AmEx/MC/V.) Of all the museums in Trondheim, the Kunstmuseum, Bispegata 7B, is most worth a look. (☎73 53 81 80. www.tkm.museum.no. 50kr, 30kr students. late June-late Aug. Open daily 10am-5pm, Aug. 21- June 19 Tu-Su 11am-4pm. MC/V.) Across the scenic Gamle Bybro (Old Town Bridge) to the east, the weather-worn fishing houses of the old district are now chic galleries and cafes. The hill in this district is the site of the world’s first bicycle elevator. Test your balance as you are shoved up the steep hill by an automated pulley. (Access card available at the tourist office for 100kr deposit.) The Kristiansten Festning (Kristiansten Fortress), overlooking Trondheim and the fjords, is one of the city’s best picnic spots. (☎98 80 66 23; www.kristiansten-festning.no. Grounds open daily 8am-midnight, when the flag is raised. Interior open June-Aug. daily 11am-4pm. Museum 50kr.)

Entertainment And Nightlife. The Olavsfestdagene Medieval Festival (late July to early Aug.) fills the city with pop bands and pilgrims. (☎73 84 14 50; www.olavsfestdagene.no.) The Studentersamfundet, the student society’s headquarters, houses a cafe with cheap food and beer next to the InterRail Center. There are 18 private bars in the maze-like building. (☎73 89 95 00; www.samfundet.no. Beer 24-48kr. Open daily Sept.-June until 2am and as late as 4am.) The Solsiden district is a waterfront promenade home to popular restaurants and lounges. The standout   Blæst, TMV kaia 17, has three bars and a theater that hosts rock acts, DJs most weekends, and an improv comedy troupe on Saturdays. Wednesday is the day to go for 19kr beer and free concerts. (☎73 60 01 00; www.blaest.no. Concerts usually 100-200kr. 20+. Open M-Sa 11-3:30am, Su 12-1am. AmEx/MC/V.) When school is in session, the clubs and bars along Brattorgata, in the north near the train station, offer everything from tapas to fine malt whiskey. In summer, a stroll along Carl Johans gate or Nordre gate is the best bet for nightlife beyond Solsiden.