Culiacán Overview

Due to the large amount of budget traffic to seaside destinations, Culiacán (pop. 600,000) has become an important tourist transportation hub in Sinaloa and is the state’s largest city. Unfortunately, this isn’t the only traffic that passes through Culiacán; the capital, nicknamed “little Medellín” after the notorious Colombian city, is one of Mexico’s primary drug centers and is home to several drug-running bandidas, constantly at war. Extra effort has kept the centro beautiful, and what little artistic wealth falls to Sinaloa is gathered here.

Transportation. The airport (☎760 0676) is 10km southeast of downtown. Major carriers include AeroCalifornia (☎716 0250), Aerolineas Internacionales (☎712 5443) and Aeroméxico (☎714 0181 or 800 021 4000). Culiacán’s modern bus station (☎712 4875) is 12km from downtown. Local buses to the station leave from stops throughout the centro and from the old bus station on Solano (3 pesos). Taxis cost 50 pesos and are often the only option after dark. Élite sends buses to: Guadalajara (11hr., 463 pesos); Hermosillo (366 pesos); Monterrey (17hr.; 5, 7:30pm; 800 pesos); Tepic (8hr., 339 pesos). Pacífico (☎761 4730) goes to Ciudad Obregón (every hr., 140 pesos), Guaymas (8hr., every hour., 170 pesos), and Mazatlán (2 hr., every hr., 147 pesos). Norte de Sinaloa heads to Los Mochis (every hr. 7am-9pm, 120 pesos).

Practical Information. The city concentrates on the south side of Río Tamazula but is very spread out. Luckily, buses (4 pesos) run all over and save time and energy. The downtown area is roughly delineated by Madero, Granados, the edge of the river along which Niños Héroes runs, and Bravo. In 2003, President Fox sent extra federal police to Culiacán as a signal to the city’s drug barons. A large contingent ends up standing on the street corners in the centro, toting rifles—they don’t see much action, but look imposing nonetheless. While the area between Bravo and Obregón is relatively safe, other parts of Culiacán can be dangerous, especially at night.

Services include: Tourist office, in the Palacio de Gobierno, at Insurgentes and Barraza (open M-F 8am-3pm and 5-7pm.); Banamex, Rosales 103 (☎715 0700), with currency exchange and a 24hr. ATM (open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm); another 24hr. ATM on the corner of Hidalgo and Obregón; emergency ☎060; police at Federalismo 2500 (☎761 0152); Red Cross (☎752 0707) at Solano; 24hr. Farmacia Red Cross, Solano and Paleza; Hospital Civil de Culiacán (☎716 4650), at Obregón and Romero; Internet access at MegaClub (☎712 4312), on Obregón in the zócalo (10 pesos per hr; open daily 10am-10pm); and the post office, Domingo Rubi 560 (☎712 2170; open M-F 8am-3pm). Postal Code: 80000.

Accommodations And Food. The safest accommodations and cheapest eateries can be found close to the cathedral. Although farther away from the centro than the other budget hotels, Hotel Louisiana 2, at 478 Villa Ote., is a bargain. (☎713 9152. Singles 150 pesos; doubles 160 pesos. Cash only.) Hotel Nevada 2 on Juárez, two blocks below Obregón, also has cheap stays right in the middle of town. (Singles 150 pesos, with A/C 180 pesos; doubles 160/200 pesos.) Hotel Salvador 4, Solano Ote. 297, offers large, clean rooms with A/C, bath, and a pretty decent view. (☎713 7462. Singles 200 pesos; doubles 250 pesos. MC/V.) Of Culiacán’s upper-tier hotels, Hotel Francis 5, at 135 Escobedo Pte., has the most amenities (A/C, bar, cable, Wi-Fi) for the lowest price. (☎712 1808. Singles 320 pesos; doubles 390 pesos. MC/V.)

A variety of cut-rate chow can be found in the area surrounding Obregón and Hidalgo. Tacos Ranas 1, at the corner of Morelos and Flores offers cheap food, including three tacos al pastor for 15 pesos. (Open M-Sa 9am-9pm.) Culiacán’s flagship restaurant, Los Antiguos Portales de Culiacán 5, Paliza Nte. 574 (☎752 1978), has a great view of Plaza Obregón and affordable breakfasts (30-60 pesos) with huevos al gusto. (Open daily noon-10pm. AmEx/D/MC/V.) Tentu Sushi 3, 30 Hidalgo Pte. (☎715 7738), serves seafood and greens. (Open daily 10am-8pm.) Wings Yogurt 2, on the corner of Obregón and Juárez, has a variety of chicken, fruit, and yogurt dishes for 25-35 pesos.

Sights. The city’s shrine to Jesús Malverde, a 19th-century bandit whose Robin Hood-esque practices led to his execution in 1909, is a landmark on Independencia. Malverde is also called the “narco-saint,” as he has become the spiritual figure of Culiacán drug trafficking. To reach the shrine from the centro, head west toward Bravo until you reach Madero as it runs along the train tracks. Follow this away from the centro until it turns into Independencia. Just off the Plaza Obregón, the Museo de Arte Sinaloa, on Rafael Buelna and Paliza, houses the works of artists such as Diego Rivera, López Saenz, and Frida Kahlo in its wonderfully air-conditioned chambers. (☎716 1750. Open Tu-Sa 10am-3pm and 5-7pm, Su 11am-5pm. 5 pesos, students and children 3 pesos; Su free.) Casa de la Cultura and the attached Galería Frida Kahlo, on Noris and Flores, are beautiful, air-conditioned houses with fantastic Mexican artwork. (☎715 2111. 10 pesos.) Culiacán’s majestic yellow Catedral, on Obregón and Juárez in the centro, is one of el norte’s most impressive. La Lomita, a large building at the top of a hill, offers a mirador with a view of the whole city. Follow Obregón all the way past Solano up hill.