El Fuerte Overview

Founded in 1564 by Don Francisco de Ibarra, El Fuerte (pop. 30,000) takes its name from a seemingly impenetrable fort—the last of three—that once stood on this site, guarding the Spanish from the native Zuaque and Tehueco warriors. The former stronghold’s cannons, however, have failed to keep pesky budget travelers at bay, and rumor has it that the city’s wardens will betray their isolationist roots and open El Fuerte as a southern exploration base for Las Barrancas del Cobre.

Transportation And Practical Information. From the station, trains leave daily for Chihuahua (1st-class, 8:30am, 1271 pesos; 2nd-class, 10:15am, 636 pesos) and Los Mochis (1st-class 1hr., 6:15pm, 267 pesos; 2nd-class 2hr., 10:30pm, 133 pesos). From the train station, take a taxi into the El Fuerte zócalo (7km, 45 pesos). Visit www.chepe.com.mx for more information. Buses to Los Mochis (50 pesos) leave from Juárez and 16 de Septiembre. Taxis gather on Juárez, the main street. To get to the zócalo from Juárez, walk west from Juárez and turn left onto 5 de Mayo, which puts you in front of the Palacio Municipal.

Services include: the tourist office, on the second floor inside the Palacio Municipal (☎893 0290); Bancomer, Constitución 101 at Juárez (☎893 1145; 24hr. ATM; open M-F 8:30am-4pm); Red Cross, Hidalgo 530 (☎893 0707); Farmacia del Fuerte, Juárez 112 (open daily 8am-10pm); Clínica el Buen Samaritano (☎893 0688), on the corner of Ocampo and Cecena; Internet access at Cibercafe Urias, Juárez 103 toward the zócalo, above the Librería Urias (☎893 0615; 10 pesos per hr; open M-Sa 8am-8pm, Su 8am-3pm); and the post office, in the Palacio Gobierno on the first floor (open M-F 9am-4pm). Postal Code: 81820.

Accommodations And Food. El Fuerte’s budget accommodations lie along and downhill of Juárez. An air-conditioned escape from El Fuerte’s humidity is Villa de Villa 2, Juárez 407. (☎893 1032. Singles 200 pesos; doubles 250 pesos.) Hotel San Jose 1, Juárez 108, has large, musty, rooms with high ceilings. (☎893 0845. Cots 30 pesos; bare-bones singles 100 pesos; doubles with fan and bath 200 pesos.) Hotel Guerrero 2, Juárez 210, has dim rooms with baths, high ceilings, and comfy beds. (☎893 1350. Singles 200 pesos; doubles 250 pesos.)

Cheap food in El Fuerte can be found in the numerous comida corrida stands on Juárez, with delicious taco plates and pozole for under 30 pesos. Chinaloa 3 dishes up Chinese food on the corner of Juárez and 16 de Septiembre. To sample the fish from the river and surrounding dams, however, you’ll have to pay more. Toward the zócalo lies Restaurante El Mesón General 5, Juárez 202. Food is served around an open courtyard, and there is occasionally live music on weekends. (☎893 0206. Tacos machaca 53 pesos. Octopus 82 pesos. Open daily 8am-10:30pm.) Better mariscos and better views are along the river at El Paseo de Los Aves 5, Camino la Galera. Follow 5 de Mayo past Fuerte Museo Mirador as it curves to the right and then to the left (15-20min. by foot). Sit on the patio and enjoy a variety of fish filets for 70-90 pesos. (☎893 0986. Open daily 8am-10pm.)

Sights. The imposing fuerte on the hill dates back to 1610. To reach it, take 5 de Mayo past the Palacio de Gobierno and turn right at the sign that reads “Fuerte Museo Mirador.” On the lower level, there are rooms filled with colonial and indigenous artifacts (including giant artillery pieces), along with galleries featuring the work of current Sinaloan artists. The real attraction, however, is the view of the sub-tropical valley from the upper level. (☎823 1501. Open daily 9am-9pm. 5 pesos, students and children 3 pesos.) Continuing on 5 de Mayo will lead you along the Río Fuerte. Keep your eyes peeled for native birds such as the Crested Caracara, the Mexican Blue-Rumped Parrotlet, and the Plain-Capped Starthroat. Also keep your eyes on the path ahead of you as it’s a frequently used cow passage.