Mazatlán Overview

The locals say that some nights, lying quietly on the well-trodden sands, you can still hear the sounds of the 1980s dying in the waves. Mazatlán (pop. 400,000) is certainly past its heyday—when the resorts opened in the Zona Dorada during the 80s—but the 500-year-old port continues to be an attractive travel destination. Mazatlecas are very proud of their beach-side haven, and keep the malecón (boardwalk) spotless both in and out of Carnaval time. The beaches stretch for kilometers and the clubs are all-night affairs.

An efficient bus and taxi system makes navigating the city a breeze. At some point, all municipal buses pass the public market on Juárez, three blocks north of the zócalo at Ocampo. The air-conditioned Mercedes “Sábalo-Centro” bus runs from the downtown market, with stops a few blocks from the malecón in Ola Altas and at Playa Sábalo in the Zona Dorada (10 pesos). The “Cerritos-Juárez” bus continues up to Playa Bruja at Puerta Cerritos. The “Insurgentes” route services bus and train stations, and “Playa Sur” goes to the southern ferry dock and lighthouse (every 15min. 5am-10pm, 4 pesos). For late-night disco-hopping, take a taxi or pulmonía (like a large golf cart). Standard fare between Old Mazatlán and the Zona Dorada is 40-50 pesos, and about 10-20 more pesos in a pulmonía, depending on the time of night (later is more expensive). The walk is more than an hour, giving drivers bargaining leverage, but don’t be afraid to haggle with pulmonía drivers—there are plenty to choose from.

• Flights: Rafael Buelna International Airport (MZT; ☎982 2399), 18km south of the city. “Central Camionera” bus goes to the centro, but you must return by taxi (200 pesos). Served by: AeroCalifornia, in El Cid Resort (☎913 2042); Aeroméxico, Sábalo 310A (☎914 1111 or 800 021 4000); Alaska Airlines (☎800 252 7522); Mexicana, Pasco Claussen 101-B (☎982 7722 or 800 502 2000).
• Buses: The bus station is 3 blocks from the malecón and about 2km north of Old Mazatlán, between downtown and the Zona Dorada. To get downtown, catch any of the red “Centro” or “Mercado” buses, 1 block west of the station and about 1 block south, to your right along Benemerito de las Americas. (3 pesos, after 9pm 3.50 pesos; buses stop running at 10pm). Avoid the “Sábalo-Coco” bus, as it goes downtown only after an enormous loop around the city. Pulmonías and cabs also make the trip for around 40 pesos. Transportes de Pacífico (☎981 5156) travels to: Culiacán (every hr., 127 pesos); Durango (8hr.; 4 per day, 259 pesos); Guadalajara (8hr., 310 pesos); Guaymas (10hr., 441 pesos); Los Mochis (6hr., every hr., 240 pesos); Mexico City (18hr., every hr., 703 pesos); Monterrey (17hr., 3 per day, 584 pesos); Nogales (15hr., 643 pesos); Puerto Vallarta (7hr., 305 pesos); Tepic (4hr., every hr., 145 pesos). Estrella Blanca, Tufesa, and TuriStar offer similar services.
• Ferries: Baja Ferries (☎981 0470), at the end of Carnaval, south of Flores. A 20min. walk from the centro or a quick ride on the blue “Playa Sur” bus (4 pesos). Taxis 30-35 pesos. Tickets sold only on the day of departure. Arrive at least 2hr. early to get a seat. Ticket office open M-F and Su 8am-3pm, Sa 9am-1pm. Make reservations at least 2 weeks ahead in high season (Dec. and July-Aug.). Daily ferry to La Paz (17 hr., 2:30pm, call for fares).
• Car Rental: Alamo, Sábalo 410 (☎913 1010). Budget, Sábalo 402 (☎913 2000). National, Sábalo 7000 (☎913 6000).

Orientation And Practical Information

Mazatlán is strictly divided into Old Mazatlán, home to the zócalo and budget hotels and restaurants, and the Zona Dorada, home to high-rise hotels and big-money entertainment. The malecón (boardwalk) follows the beach and connects the two sides of town. Mazatlán is spread out; the easiest way to traverse the city is by bus.

• Tourist Office: State office (☎981 8883), at Escobero and Carnaval. Open M-F 9am-5pm. Small municipal office, Olas Altas 11-7 (☎981 8435), past Hotel Belmar, in the centro. Open M-Sa 8am-7pm.
• Consulates: Both at Playa Gaviotas 202, across from Hotel Playa Mazatlán in Zona Dorada. Canada (☎913 7320). Open daily 9am-1pm. US (☎916 5889). Open daily 10am-2pm.
• Currency Exchange: Casas de cambio are open all day in the northern downtown area, but have poor rates. Stick to banks in the centro and the zócalo. Banca Serfín (☎982 6666), 21 de Marzo and Nelson, across from the zócalo. Open M-F 8:30am-5pm, Sa 10am-2pm. Bancomer, on the other side of the cathedral. Both have 24hr. ATMs.
• American Express: (☎913 0600; fax 916 5908), in Centro Commercial Plaza Balboa on Sábalo. Open daily 9am-5pm.
• Laundry: Lavandería Super, Azuelta 1817, in the centro. 12 pesos per kg. Open M-Sa 8:30am-7pm, Su 8:30am-1pm.
• Emergency: ☎066.
• Police: (☎983 4510), on Buelna in Colonia Juárez.
• Tourist police: (☎914 8444), on Ruiz and Santa Monica in the Zona Dorada.
• Red Cross: (☎981 3690), on Zaragoza and Corona.
• 24hr. Pharmacy: Farmacias Hidalgo (24hr. emergency hotline ☎985 4545), at Evey and Hidalgo. Other locations in Old Mazatlán and the Zona Dorada.
• Medical Services: Sharp Hospital (☎986 5678 or 983 1717), on Kumate and Buelna, near Zaragoza park, know as the tourist’s hospital.
• Internet Access: Ciber el Punto, Flores 810 ( ☎981 8730), in the centro. 15 pesos per hr. Also offers fax service. Open daily 8:30am-9:30pm.
• Post Office: (☎981 2121), on Flores at Juárez, across from the zócalo. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 9am-1pm. Postal Code: 82000.

Accommodations

It’s expensive to stay in the Zona Dorada or in the mid-range waterfront hotels of Olas Altas, but budget hotels line Juárez and Serdán in Old Mazatlán. The truly self-denying can find even cheaper lodgings in the area around the bus station. Rates may rise substantially during the high season (July-Aug. and Dec.-Apr.), but you can usually bargain.

Olas Altas

Back in the 1950s, Olas Altas was the focal point of Mazatlán’s fledgling resort scene. Although newer establishments have sprung up, the area remains mostly unchanged since its glory days. Copper plaques on every edifice list the big stars who have passed through its doors. A 10min. walk from the centro, and easily accessible, Olas Altas connects to the rest of Mazatlán by the “Sábalo-Centro” and other bus lines.

• Hotel Belmar, Olas Altas 166 (☎985 1112), at Osuna. Spacious rooms with bath, and 2 queen beds. Internet access in the lobby. Free phone calls within North America. Pool and library. Rooms with A/C and TV 279 pesos, with ocean view 350 pesos; each additional person 30 pesos. AmEx/MC/V.
• Hotel la Siesta, Olas Altas Sur 11 (☎981 2640 or 800 711 5229), at Escobedo. Tiered wooden walkways connect small, clean rooms set around a lush courtyard with an ocean view. Rooms with A/C, phone, and TV. Singles in low season 300 pesos, with ocean view 315 pesos; in high season 351/468 pesos. Doubles 530 pesos. MC/V.

Old Mazatlán

Downtown, though congested, offers easy access to most points in the city.

• Hotel del Río, Juárez Nte. 2410 (☎982 4430). Clean white halls and small rooms await at a family-run hotel a few blocks north of the mercado. A bit out of the way, the hotel has pleasant furniture and management, and sufficiently tacky business cards. Reserve 2-3 days in advance. Singles 150 pesos, with A/C 200 pesos; doubles 300/350 pesos. Cash only.
• Hotel Milan, Canizales 717 (☎985 3499), across from the Telmex building in the business district. A/C and TV make up for the brown color scheme. Singles 163 pesos; doubles 187 pesos. Prices rise 30-40% July-Aug. Cash only.
• Hotel Lerma, Bolívar 622 (☎981 2436), at Serdán. 10min. from the centro. Light blue rooms and ceiling fans make the heat bearable. Singles 90 pesos, with bath 110 pesos; doubles 120 pesos. Prices rise 10 pesos July-Aug. and Dec.-Apr. Cash only.
• Hotel Santa Barbara, Juárez 2612 (☎982 2120), on the corner of 16 de Septiembre. Up the hill from the centro. Doubles 180 pesos, with A/C 230 pesos. Cash only.
• Hotel Villa Del Mar, Serdán 1506 (☎981 3426). Jigsaw puzzles decorate the walls of these tiny cathedral-side doubles, with 2 single beds, TV, and a ceiling fan. Doubles 300 pesos, each additional person 100 pesos. Cash only.

Near The Bus Station

These hotels are a long walk from both the centro and the Zona Dorada but are close to the “Sábalo-Centro” bus lines.

• Hotel Fiesta, Ferrosquila 306 (☎981 7888), near the bus station. Clean rooms with hot water. Enjoy “hot kakes” (20 pesos) or a “homlet” (18 pesos) at the hotel’s cafe. Singles and doubles 160 pesos, with A/C and TV 200 pesos. Cash only.
• Hotel Económico, Río Panuco 4 (☎118 4076), right across from the bus station. Perfect if you’re just looking for a few hours of shut-eye before the morning bus. No amenities. Singles 120 pesos; doubles 150 pesos; triples 180 pesos. Cash only.

La Zona Dorada

• Hotel San Diego (☎983 5703; www.hotelsandiego.tripod.com), on Av. Del Mar and Buelna right by Fiesta Land. The best hotel rates in the Gold Zone. Clean rooms feature A/C, large baths, and TV. Singles low season 250 pesos, doubles 350 pesos; high season 350 pesos/550 pesos. Cash and traveler’s checks only.
• La Posta (☎983 5310), on Buelna. Trailer park. Hookup 85 pesos.

Food

Restaurant prices soar as you get closer to the glam of the Zona Dorada. You may have to pay a little extra to sample the catch of the day, but it’s guaranteed to be fresh. The busy mercado municipal, between Juárez and Serdán, three blocks north of the zócalo, serves the best and cheapest food in the area. If you need a headless pig (or a pig’s head), look no further. For something more formal, with a view, head to an establishment along the malecón in Olas Altas. Enjoy your meal with the local  Pacífico beer, the pride of Mazatlán.

Zona Dorada

The only restaurants close to budget in the Zona Dorada are on Las Garzas, but they serve basically the same food and are constantly competing for gringo dollars. Prices may be negotiable in low season.

• La Troje, on Buelna across from Hotel San Diego. Cheap and filling breakfasts. Burritos de huevo, frijól, or jamón 10 pesos. Open daily 8am-11pm. Cash only.
• Jungle Juice, Av. Las Garzas 101 ( ☎930 3315). Daily specials in this seafood restaurant. Fish 50-60 pesos. Open daily 7am-10pm. Bar open daily 6pm-2am. MC/V.

Olas Altas

• Copa de Leche Cafe, 1220A Sur (☎982 5753), on the malecón next to Hotel Belmar. Various gigantic egg dishes (50-75 pesos) and classic café con leche (15 pesos) served well into the afternoon. Open daily 7:30am-11pm. MC/V.
• Restaurante y Bar Puerto Viejo, Olas Altas and Osuna. Friendly staff serves fresh seafood right on the boardwalk with a great view of Olas Altas and the surrounding cliffs. 5 beers 55 pesos. Filling orders of ceviche 45 pesos. Marlin ahumado 55 pesos. Occasional live music on weekends. Open daily 10am-10pm. Cash only.

Near Plazuela Machado

• El Túnel, in the tunnel that starts at Carnaval 1207, across from the theater. Great ambience upstaged only by the amazing food. Dedicated to serving classic sinaloense cuisine, this place has dished out delicious gorditas since 1945. Try the Tonicol (13 pesos), a vanilla soda made exclusively in Sinaloa. Gorditas or agua de horchata 13 pesos. Pozole sinaloense 40 pesos. Open daily noon-midnight. Cash only.
• Machado Fish Tacos, Osuna 34 (☎981 1375), on the Plazuela Machado. Specializes in a variety of seafood tacos (fish, shrimp, clam, octopus, oyster) for 15 pesos each. Egg breakfasts 35 pesos. Open daily 8am-midnight. Cash only.
• Ambrosia Vegetarian Restaurant, Dominguez 1406 (☎985 0333). Excellent salads, such as the ensalada rusa con ostiones y hongos (russian salad with oysters and mushrooms; 55 pesos). AmEx/MC/V.
• Cafe Luxor, 828 Flores across from the cathedral. Free Internet with purchase of drink, baked good, or giant chicken salad (29-45 pesos). Té Hindú 29 pesos. Cash only. 3
• Panamá Cafe and Restaurant, Juárez and Canizales, and at Serdán and Morelos. Gusty A/C accompanies quick service. Local patrons devour amazing pastries or antojitos sinaloenses (45-55 pesos). Salads 25-35 pesos. Breakfasts 40-50 pesos. Open daily 7am-10pm. MC/V.

Sights And Beaches

Beaches. Mazatlán’s famous beach stretches 16km from Olas Altas, well past the Zona Dorada. North of Old Mazatlán, along del Mar, is Playa Norte. Its small waves and general lack of activity make it a decent stretch of sand on which to find some solitude and maybe do a little bait-and-tackle, though loud traffic may spoil the mood. As you approach the Zona Dorada, the beach gets cleaner, the waves larger, and Playa Norte eases into Playa las Gaviotas, a popular spot among local surfers. Past Punto Sábalo and Hotel Los Sábalos, in the lee of the islands, is Playa Sábalo, the reason why Mazatlán is Mazatlán. Beware the vendors hawking cheap souvenirs. As Playa Sábalo recedes to the north, crowds thin rapidly. “Sábalo-Centro” buses pass all these beaches. In most places, boogie boards (40 pesos) and sailboats (500 pesos per hr.) are available. Renting snorkels is not worth it, as the water is very sandy near shore. Take the “Cerritos-Juárez” bus (5 pesos) to the last stop and walk left (walking straight ahead brings you to a rocky outcropping with restaurants but little sand) to nearly deserted Playa Bruja, with beautiful sand and 1-2m waves. Camping is permitted, but exercise caution after dark and camp in groups whenever possible.

El Faro. For a 360˚ view of Mazatlán and the sea, climb to the top of El Faro, the second tallest lighthouse in the world. The 30min. hike is almost unbearable in the summer; ascend in the early morning or late evening to avoid the heat. (At the end of the “Playa Sur” bus route south of the centro.)

Tower Divers. Mazatlán’s tower divers perform acrobatic and dangerous plunges into rocky surf from an 18m high ledge. Dives take place during the day, but be warned that divers will not perform unless they pull in a sufficient amount of money beforehand. The best times to watch are 10-11am and 4:30-6:30pm during high season, when tour buses arrive and tourists fork over their pesos, allowing you—the savvy (and unscrupulous) budget traveler—to see dives for free. Grab a spot just south of the high-dive towers. (On Claussen, south of Zaragoza and north of La Siesta Hotel.)

Isla De Los Venados. Deer Island is a relatively deserted strip with fine diving, snorkeling, and beautiful beaches; catamaran boats leave from the Aqua Sports Center at El Cid Resort in the Zona Dorada. Bring your own food and water if you plan to spend some time here. (☎913 3333, ext. 341. Boats depart daily 10am, noon, 2pm. Round-trip 100 pesos.)

Mazagua. Water park mania hit Mazatlán with Mazagua, a large, clean park north of the Zona Dorada near Puerto Cerritos, in the area dubbed “New Mazatlán.” Go bonkers in the wave pool and shoot down slides or the mammoth pipe flume. Be sure to pack a lunch. (Take a “Cerritos-Juárez” bus, 4 pesos. ☎988 0041. Open Mar.-Oct. daily 10am-6pm. Snack bar. Inner tubes, lifevests 30 pesos. Storage lockers 20 pesos.)

Acuario Mazatlán. One of the largest aquariums in Latin America, the Acuario Mazatlán keeps sharks and other feisty fish (250 breeds in all) in a slew of cloudy, small tanks, and hosts performing sea lions and birds. (Av. De los Deportes 111. Off Av. del Mar, 1 block back from the beach, halfway between Zona Dorada and the centro; the turn-off is marked with a blue sign. ☎981 7815. Open daily 9am-6pm. 50 pesos, ages 5-10 25 pesos.)

Other Sights. The newly restored and luxurious Teatro Ángela Peralta, at Carnaval and Libertad near Plazuela Machado, hosts an impressive variety of cultural programs. (☎982 4447; www.teatroangelaperalta.com. Prices vary by show.) Museo Casa Machado, housed in a 19th-century mansion, is filled with relics from Mazatlán’s glory days as the state capital. The museum houses a collection of spectacularly gaudy old Carnaval costumes. (Constitución 79, just off Plazuela Machado. ☎982 1440. Open daily 10am-6pm. 20 pesos, children and students 10 pesos.) The small but interesting Museo Arqueológico displays clay figurines, rocks, and dioramas. (Osuna 72, between the centro and Olas Altas. Open M-F 10am-6pm, Su 10am-3pm. Free.)

Nightlife

From March through October, Mexican youth swarm to the dozen discotecas surrounding Playa Norte. The ones that aren’t solely electronica blast a mix of salsa, hip hop, and reggaeton. Prices for transportation and cover are steep, and most nightclubs cut deals with package-tour companies—the unpackaged tourist often pays more. Mellower amusements entertain older crowds around the centro.

The Centro And Olas Altas

The bars lining the Plazuela Machado offer 15-peso beers and attract both locals and tourists hoping to enjoy the warm night air while listening to live music.

• Cafe Pacífico, Constitución 501 (☎981 3972), across from Plazuela Machado. A pub with an odd assortment of animal skins, rifles, and stained-glass windows. Cool interior—dedicated to the namesake Mazatlán brew—attracts a fun crowd of amiable locals seeking respite from the sun. Tourists lounge on their patio with nightly live music. Beer 15 pesos. Jalapeños stuffed with marlin 45 pesos. Open daily 10am-2am. MC/V.
• Altrazor Ars Cafe, Constitución 517, at Plazuela Machado. Enjoys local fame for serving Corona across from the birthplace of Pacífico beer. Local hipsters come for the beer (15 pesos), snacks, and live music nightly at 8:30pm under the umbrellas. Their salciadas (17 pesos) are hard to beat. Sandwiches 20-40 pesos. Large quesadillas 30 pesos. Open M-Sa 9am-2am, Su 4pm-1am. MC/V.

Zona Dorada

Nightlife in the Zona Dorada is all about excess. Two-for-one beer deals abound.

• Joe’s Oyster Bar, Playa Goviatas 100 (☎983 5353), next to Los Sábalos Hotel. The best. Beachfront location and relaxed atmosphere make Joe’s extremely popular for drinks (2 beers for 30 pesos) and dancing under the palapas on the beach. Cover Th-Su 50 pesos; includes 2 beers or 1 bebida nacional (any locally produced alcohol). Open daily 11am-5am. AmEx/D/MC/V.
• Mangos, Playa Gaviotas 403 (☎916 0044), set off from the street toward the beach. Young and trendy beach crowd. Mango margaritas are the house specialty (40 pesos, 2 for 60 pesos). Dress code prohibits tennis shoes, flip-flops, and shorts; it is enforced at the management’s discretion. Cover 50 pesos when crowded. Draws more locals than foreigners. Open M-Th and Su noon-12:30am, F-Sa noon-4am.
• Fiesta Land, (☎989 1600, ext. 176 and 177), on Sábalo toward the southern end of the Zona Dorada, atop a white castle. A grouping of several nightspots that, despite all being in the same complex, operate as relatively separate entities. Valentino’s is a disco with an incredible clifftop view and pulsing electronica music. Dress code: no shorts or sneakers. Cantabar, part of Valentino’s, features karaoke and live música norteña on Su. Bora-Bora has an urban feel, and the club pumps salsa and hip hop. Ball Hai is a sports bar, while Maui is a snack bar. 2-for-1 beers 30 pesos. Mixed drinks from 35 pesos. Cover for the complex is 50 pesos, but individual clubs will charge their own on packed nights; Su women free at Bora Bora and Cantabar. After 12:30am, a hand stamp lets you into all clubs; before then you are restricted to 1. Cantabar open until 6am on weekends, others open until 3am. Crowds don’t arrive until midnight, and beforehand it’s usually filled with young high schoolers.
• Latitud 123, on the corner of Las Garzas and Loaiza (☎913 1413). New club plays a lot of US hits, yet strangely attracts many older Mexican couples. Dress code: no shorts, no sandals. Beer 20 pesos. Cash only.
• Gringo Lingo, Playa Gaviotas 313 (☎913 7737; www.gringolingo.com.mx), across from Hotel Sábalo. A young foreign crowd comes to hear music that speaks their language and enjoy some of the least-gouged prices the Zona Dorada has to offer. The live rock music. 2-for-1 beers 30 pesos. Hamburgers 45-60 pesos. Open daily noon-1am. MC/V.
• El Caracol (☎913 3333, ext. 3245), in the El Cid Hotel on Sábalo. A premier 4-level dance club, with insane laser beams and endless música electronica. Drinks 30-45 pesos. Cover 50 pesos; discounts for El Cid guests. Open daily 9pm-2am. AmEx/MC/V.

Festivals

As if the nightly scene weren’t rowdy enough, the city comes out in full force each year to celebrate a notoriously debaucherous  Carnaval, where clothes are optional and pick-up trucks pump salsa through the streets. More than just a money-making scheme hatched by local hoteliers, Mazatlán’s Carnaval during the week before Lent has a history dating back to the 17th century. Hotel reservations should be made several weeks in advance for this party.

Daytrip From Mazatlán

 Isla De La Piedra

Take a green “Independencia” bus (4 pesos) from the market at Serdán to the Embarcadero de la Isla de la Piedra, the small jetty about 250m east of the Baja Ferries station. Another jetty lies east of the centro, but is only accessible by pulmonía or taxi (40 pesos from the centro). From there, take a boat to the island (5min., every 10min., round-trip 15 pesos; boat prices double after 7pm.) Life jackets are mandatory. Pulmonías and taxis (20 pesos) take passengers to the beach from the ferry landing. By foot, go straight from the boat landing and follow the concrete path left, taking the first dirt road that branches to the right across the island (10-15min.) At the larger disembarking points, tractors drag wagons of passengers all the way to the beach for free.

A short boat ride from the mainland, Isla de la Piedra boasts 18km of glistening sand, crashing waves, and rustling palm trees. Coconuts are king here, with thousands harvested every weekend in the summer. Less crowded and not as developed as the mainland, the island is a haven of sunshine and ocean popular with both Mexican families and Americans escaping the tourists. Take a trip on a banana boat (80 pesos), and rent snorkeling equipment (150 pesos per hr.) or a body board (30 pesos per hr.). Horses can be hired (85 pesos per hr.) up the beach; ask for Martín.