Varenna Overview

A short ferry ride from Bellagio or Menaggio, Varenna (va-REHN-na; pop. 900) is a smaller, slower-paced version of its more famous neighbors. Varenna distinguishes itself from other lake towns with its relaxed, pedestrian feel and the easily accessible hamlets dotting its hillsides. The 14th-century Chiesa di San Giorgio looms above the main piazza overlooking the city. The ornate, Baroque-style confessional, built in 1690 by Giovanni Albiolo, offers a strong contrast to the exceedingly simple interior, which features frescoes painted by locals. (☎0341 83 02 28. Open daily 7am-noon and 2-7pm. Free.) Varenna’s most famous sights are the two lakeside gardens of Villa Monastero, in a former Cistercian monastery. Facing the church, walk 150m to the right. The grounds contain 2km of paths past dark cyprus groves and giant aloe plants, and are also home to a museum. (☎031 29 54 50; www.villamonastero.it. Gardens open daily Mar. 28-Nov. 1 9am-7pm. Museum open Sa 1-5pm, Su 10am-1pm and 2-6pm. Museum €2; gardens €2. Combined ticket with Villa Cipressi €4.) Smaller, terraced gardens of 16th-century Villa Cipressi, once the strolling grounds of aristocrats, now serve patrons of the villa’s luxury hotel. Enter through the Hotel Villa Cipressi, past Villa Monastero. (Gardens open daily Mar.-Oct. 9am-7pm. €2, with Villa Monastero €4.) From the tourist office, a 30min. hike up V. IV Novembre, then on V. Roma, leads to La Sorgente del Fiumelatte, so named for the latte -like foam on the river. Fiumelatte, the shortest river in Italy (250m), disappears in mid-October only to reappear in March. Walk straight out from the ferry and veer left to reach a cherry tree-lined cobblestone path leading 20min. uphill to the nearby village of Vezio. In the tiny central piazza lies the small ornate Chiesa di San Antonio Abate di Vezio, built in 1458 to honor the village’s patron saint. A five minute walk uphill from the church leads to the ruins of Queen Teodolinda’s castle, with excellent views of the lake and old Varenna.

One of Varenna’s few affordable accommodations is Albergo Beretta , V. per Esino 1, on the corner on the way to the train station. All 10 rooms have TV, telephone, and view. The ground-floor bar sells Italian translations of Agatha Christie books and offers a home-style €12 menù, available throughout the day upon request. (}/fax 0341 83 01 32. Breakfast €6. Doubles €58, with bath €68, with balcony and sofa for 3rd person €80. Extra bed €12. MC/V.) B&B Orange House di Mara Angeloni , V. Venini 156, is the only other affordable accommodation in town. Located on the fourth floor of the vaguely orange apartment building across the street from Albergo Beretta. (☎0341 347 918 7940; www.orangehouse.org. Reservations recommended. Singles €39; doubles €58. MC/V.) Ristorante Montecodeno , V. Scoscesa 10, lets guests dine in a terrace over the water. Serves leg of lamb stuffed with prunes (€16), pumpkin ravioli (€11), and other fine cuisine. (☎0341 83 07 93. Primi €11-12. Secondi €15-16. Cover €3. Open Tu-Su 12:30-2pm and 7:30-9:30pm. Closed Nov.-Jan. MC/V.)

Varenna is one of few towns with a train station, directly uphill from the ferry dock, linking the eastern side of the lake to Milan. You cannot buy tickets at the train station, so get them en route at the travel agency next to Albergo Beretta. (Travel agency open M-F 8:30am-12:30pm and 3-7pm, Sa 8:30am-12:30pm.) Trains run to Lecco (30min., 23 per day 5:25am-10:29pm, €2.10) and Milan (15 per day 5:25am-9:23pm, €4.95). From other parts of the lake, the best way to access Varenna is by ferry, arriving at the northern point of town. Pick up a ferry schedule from the tourist office. Part of the central lake route, ferries serve Bellagio (15-20min., every 1-2hr. 6:33am-7:52pm, €3-4.60), Como (1-2hr., 6:33am-6:36pm, €7.20-10.50), and Menaggio (10-15min., every 30min.-1hr. 6:33am-6:36pm, €3-4.60). For a taxi, call ☎0341 81 50 61. The tourist office is in the train station. (☎0341 830 651; www.varennaitaly.com. Open daily 10am-1:30pm and 3-7:30pm.) If arriving by ferry, see ticket office for the location of the closest tourist office. Off P. S. Giorgio, Banca Popolare di Lecco, V. IX Novembre 4, has an ATM. (☎0341 81 50 15. Open M-F 8:20am-1:20pm and 2:45-3:45pm.) Pharmacy Pedrani is at V. Venini 2. (☎0341 83 02 03. Open M-Tu and Th-Sa 9am-12:30pm and 3:30-7:30pm, W 9am-12:30pm. AmEx/MC/V.) Internet access is available at al Barilott, V. IX Novembre 6, which is also a wine bar. (€2.50 per 15min., €5 per hr. Open M-Sa 7am-8pm.) In case of emergency, dial ☎118 or call the carabinieri (☎0341 81 10 21) or an ambulance (☎0341 82 91 11), both based in nearby Bellano. The post office is at V. del Prato 13. (☎0341 83 02 31. Open M-F 8:30am-2pm, Sa 8:30am-12:30pm.) Postal Code: 23829.