Álamos Overview

The sleepy town of Álamos (pop. 8000) in the scenic foothills of the Sierra Madre Occidentales, has long been a favorite of colonial architecture enthusiasts. Though founded in 1531, Álamos was relatively ignored until silver was discovered nearby in 1683. For nearly a hundred years, Álamos produced more silver than any area in the world, but when the mines ran dry at the turn of the century, Álamos turned from boomtown into ghost town. Over the last 50 years, wealthy norteamericanos have taken an interest in the town. Thanks to their funds, Álamos—called “la joya del norte” (“the jewel of the North”)—has returned to its glory days—the refurbished haciendas and cobblestone streets give the city a historical feel unlike any other in northwest Mexico. Those who are less passionate about touring handsome haciendas may wish to spend their time elsewhere.

Transportation. To reach Álamos by bus, you can either take a TBC bus from Guaymas (4hr., 5 per day, 126 pesos) or change buses in Navojoa, 53km southwest of Álamos. From the Transportes Norte de Sonora and Elite bus stations in Navojoa, stand at the corner of Allende and Ferrocarril, looking down Ferrocarril as you face the bus stations. Walk one block to the Transportes de Pacífico station and turn left (toward center of town) onto Guerrero. Three blocks down Guerrero is the TBC bus station at Blvr. No Reelección, where you can catch a bus to Álamos (1hr., every hr. 6am-6:30pm, 40 pesos). From the other stations, ask directions for buses to Álamos. The return trip to Álamos from Navojoa starts from the station at Plaza Alameda (every hr., 40 pesos).

Practical Information. The Álamos tourist office, Juárez 6, under Hotel Los Portales on the west side of the Plaza de Armas, offers tours of the town, historical information and maps. (☎428 0450. Open M-F 10am-3pm; Sa-Su hours vary.) Banorte, on Madero before the fork in the road, exchanges currency. (☎428 0512. Open M-F 9am-2pm.) A 24hr. ATM is next door. SuperTito’s, on Madero, operates as a pharmacy, grocery store, and liquor store. (☎428 0512. Open daily 7:30am-10:30pm.) The police station (☎428 0200), is just off Plaza de Armas on Comercia. Farther from the centro on Madero is Hospital Básico (☎428 0026). Internet access is available at Ciber-Lucas, Morelos 39, down Callejón de Beso from the Plaza de Armas. (☎428 1097. 10 pesos per hr. Open daily 8am-10pm.) The post office is located in the Palacio Municipal. (Open M-F 8am-3pm.) Postal Code: 85760.

Accommodations And Food. Unless you rediscover silver on your way into town, you’ll probably have a hard time finding bargain sleeps in Álamos. Motel Somar 5, Madero 110, has clean rooms with A/C. There is a purified water dispenser in the lobby. (☎428 0195. Singles 350 pesos; doubles 400 pesos. MC/V.) Hotel Enrique 3 is a beautiful old building on the west side of the Plaza de Armas. Rooms have fans and simple beds. (Singles 200 pesos, with bath 250 pesos; doubles 250/300 pesos. Cash only.) Hotel los Portales 5, Juárez 8 near Hotel Enrique, is an economical hacienda-style hotel. Rooms have A/C. (Doubles 600 pesos. MC/V.)

For cheap food, check out taco stands like Taquería Blanquita 1, in the Madero Municipal by Plaza Alameda. (Tacos 20 pesos. Open daily 7am-10:30pm. Cash only.) Also in the plaza is La Kazeta 1, a two-in-one fast food stand and bazaar. (Hamburgers 125 pesos. Open M-Sa 9am-9pm. Cash only). Pizza Don Chuy 1, Rosales 10, serves large pizzas for 95 pesos and has vegetarian options. (Open daily 9am-11pm. Cash only.) The walk to Restaurante el Mirador 2, on the Mirador overlooking Álamos, is sure to build up an appetite. (Chimichangas 28 pesos. Hamburgers 35 pesos. Enchiladas 45 pesos. Open M and W-Su 3-10pm.)

Sights. The best reason to visit Álamos is to catch a glimpse of the haciendas. Hotel los Portales was constructed in 1720 and refinished in the 19th century, when it became the home of José María Almada, owner of one of the world’s richest silver mines. Other impressive restored homes can be found in hotels around the cathedral, including the Ex-Convento Casa de los Tesoros, Hotel la Mansión, and Casa Encantada. You can tour the swanky Hacienda de los Santos, a series of colonial homes that have been turned into a five-star hotel. (Tours leave from the main entrance on the corner of Molina and Gutierrez. Daily 1pm. 10 pesos.) At the tourist office, ask about Alamos’s ghost tours, which regale tourists with the local tales of mystery and terror on a late night walk through the old town.

The town’s old cathedral, La Parroquia de la Purísima Concepción, was completed in 1786 and occupies a commanding position on Plaza de Armas. The Mirador offers an excellent view of the surrounding valley. It can be reached by going east on 5 de Mayo and following the signs. Museo Costumbrista, the yellow-and-white building at the northeast corner of Plaza de Armas, has exhibits on Sonora’s history. (☎428 0053. Open W-Su July-Aug. 9am-6pm; Sept.-June 9am-3pm. 10 pesos, students and children 5 pesos.) Museo Casa de María Félix, Galeana 41, in Barrio la Colorada, occupies the birthplace of the late actress—the “Marilyn Monroe of Mexico”—who hailed from Álamos. (☎428 0929; www.casademariafelix.com. Open daily 10am-4pm. 10 pesos, children 5 pesos.)

Álamos is also the home of the  Mexican jumping bean. These “beans” are actually the larvae of monarch butterflies and are found hanging from large trees outside the town during the winter, and their “jumps” are muscle spasms. Brincadores, as they’re called, are also part of a popular gambling game in local bars. José T. Hurton, the self-proclaimed “king of the Mexican jumping bean,” sells beans at the tourist office. (☎428 1225. Beans 1 peso each. 1000 beans 300 pesos.)