Bahía De Kino Overview

Bahía de Kino (pop. 5,000) is a 20km stretch of glistening sand and brilliant blue water on the Sea of Cortés. The pristine beaches of “La Perla del Mar de Cortés” are often deserted, until the weekend brings daytrippers from Hermosillo. Kino provides an ideal escape from raucous urban desert to palapa-shaded serenity. Kino Viejo, a dusty, quiet fishing village, lies down the road from Kino Nuevo, a tranquil 8km strip of condos owned by full-time residents and pajaros de nieve (snowbirds). Bahía de Kino is remarkably underdeveloped for tourism, so outings in Kino require a “do-it-yourself” attitude and a little extra planning. That said, the locals—many of whom speak English—are usually helpful and more than willing to aid the traveler in their outdoor adventures.

Orientation And Transportation. Bahía de Kino is 107km west of Hermosillo, at the end of a newly constructed four-lane highway. Buses in Hermosillo leave from the old blue-and-red-striped Costa Expresso station on Sonora between Jesús García and Horacio Soria L., near Jardín Juárez. Regular buses stop at several towns along the way (2hr., every hr. 5:30am-8:30pm, 55 pesos) and express buses only stop once before arriving at Kino (7:30, 9:30am, 1:30, 4:30pm; 66 pesos). Buses stop in Kino Viejo before going on to Kino Nuevo. Look for water on your left and get off where you’d like. Early birds can make it a daytrip, but missing the 7pm bus back to Hermosillo means spending the night in expensive Kino. All sites of interest or importance are on Blvr. Kino and Guaymas, which parallels the boulevard. Kino Nuevo has only one paved road, Mar de Cortés, the main thoroughfare. To get from one Kino to the other or back to Hermosillo, flag down the bus (every hr., 6 pesos) on Mar de Cortés or on Bulevar Kino. Buses are less likely to run on schedule during the week, as they don’t expect travelers to be around. Hitchhiking is popular in Kino, although Let’s Go discourages it.

Practical Information. The tourist office is next to the police station. (☎242 0447. No regular hours.) Other sources of information include hotel and RV park managers, as well as the municipal Comisaría, in Kino Viejo on Blvr. Kino right before the highway. (☎242 0761; www.sonoraturismo.com. Open M-F 8am-5pm.) There are public bathrooms in Kino Viejo at the Centro de Salud, at Tampico and Blvr. Kino (bring your own toilet paper) and in Kino Nuevo toward the beginning of the beach, near La Palapa Restaurant. Other services include: emergency: ☎080; police, at Blvr. Kino and Cruz in Viejo or at Santa Catalina and Mar de Cortés in Nuevo (☎242 0032 or 0047); Red Cross, at Blvr. Kino and Manzanillo in Viejo, near the post office and police station. also has a 24hr. ATM and LADATEL phones; Farmacia San Francisco, at Blvr. Kino and Topolobambo in Viejo. (☎242 0230; open daily 9am-1pm and 2-9pm); Internet access at Kino Bay RV Park in Nuevo (20 pesos per 30min.) or Space Internet Cafe on Blvr. Kino at Topolobambo, next to the pharmacy in Kino Viejo. (10 pesos per hr. A/C. Open daily 9am-10:30pm.); and the post office, next to the police in Viejo. (☎242 1020. Open M-F 8am-3pm.) Postal Code: 83348.

Accommodations And Food. If you’re traveling with family or a group of people, you may want to consider renting a casita (bungalow) in Kino Nuevo. Casitas can be rented out for a few nights, weeks, or even months. If you’ve got big wheels, you’re in luck—more than 10 RV parks offer beachfront hook-ups. Relatively safe and comfortable lodgings are plentiful on the beachfront—find a free palapa and set up camp, but don’t leave valuables unattended for long periods of time. Make sure to cover any backpacks or luggage with trash bags to protect them from water, sand, and sea gulls looking to scavenge. Hotel Saro 4, 5685 Mar de Cortés in Nuevo Kino, is right on the beach, and an excellent bargain for two. Gigantic white tiled rooms have kitchenettes and TV. (elsaro1937@hotmail.com. Check-in before 1pm. Singles and doubles 400 pesos. Cash only.) To reach Islandía Marina 2, right on the beach in Viejo, follow Guaymas to the end and make a right; the entrance to Islandía is 100m away on your left. Looks can be deceiving: this place has one of the better locations and rents cabins with bathroom, powerful fans, kitchen and refrigerator. 45 RV hook-ups. (☎242 0081. Quads 380 pesos; each additional person 60 pesos. Cash only.) At the end of Kino Nuevo, Kino Bay RV Park 3, is the largest in the area, offering over 200 full hook-ups. (☎242 0155; www.kinobayrv.com. US$20 per day. Discount for longer stays. Cash only.)

The few restaurants in Kino tend to be expensive; for an economical meal, do as the hermosillenses do and pack a lunch to enjoy under a beach palapa. In Kino Viejo, marisco (seafood) stands near the beach sell frozen coconut (15 pesos) and fresh fish with mojo de ajo (garlic sauce; 65 pesos). Hermosillenses crave the pata de mula, a resident oyster served raw. Be sure to try the Jaiba (blue swimming crab)—the local specialty is definitely worth a taste. La Palapa 4, toward the beginning of Nuevo’s beach. Homesick gringos will like the juicy hamburguesas (35 pesos). La Palapa’s real attraction is the gorgeous sunset view from its palapa-covered balcony. Try fresh fish any way you like it for 65 pesos. (☎242 0210. Alcatraz shrimp (95 pesos) and broiled lobster (300 pesos). Open daily 8am-8pm. MC/V.) Jorge’s Restaurant 5, at Mar de Cortés and Alicante toward the end of Kino Nuevo, offers all the mariscos your heart might desire. Try pulpo ranchero (grilled octopus) for 90 pesos, or the house specialty camarones empanizados (breaded shrimp; 75 pesos). (☎242 0049. Public bathrooms 5 pesos. Live music. Open daily 9am-10pm. MC/V.) A supermarket, Super Kino, is located in Viejo on the corner of Topolambo and Blvr. Kino across from Space Internet Cafe.

Beaches And Outdoor Activities. Kino’s primary attraction is its stretch of beaches, which are accessible from both Nuevo and Viejo. During the week, the beaches are perfectly deserted. Weekends draw a fair amount of hermosillenses, though Kino gets nowhere near as crowded as bigger resort towns. Watch out for sting rays that rest on the sand beds close to shore. Their stings aren’t fatal, but they’re painful—shuffle your feet in the sand to scare the rays off.

Kino’s real treasure is the easy access to the Sea of Cortés, a body of water dubbed “the aquarium of the world” by Jacques Cousteau. The islands in the middle of the gulf boast a wildlife diversity rivaled only by the Galápagos Islands. While the soft, sandy bottom off the shores of Bahía Kino often clouds up the water, the waters near Isla Tiburón and the other islands are crystal clear—perfect for snorkeling and diving. The largest island in Mexico, the ecological preserve is the property of local Seri natives; Isla Tiburón itself is regularly inaccessible to visitors. Tours of any sort require advance permission from both the nearest Seri village and the municipal government in Hermosillo. For more information visit www.sonoraturismo.com or contact the Seris at their office in Viejo (☎242 0557 or 0556). More accessible is Isla Alcatraz, the small island closest to shore, which is home to nine species of endangered birds. Alcatraz can even be reached by kayak, provided you’re a strong paddler. Kayaks, bikes, rock-climbing equipment and scuba gear all can be rented at EcoKino AdvenTours, in Hotel Saguaro on Mar de Cortés, 100m down from Puerto Peñasco (☎214 4063; www.ecokino.com. If you do rent a kayak, be careful, as the currents around Kino are very strong.

Sport fishing is huge year-round in Bahía Kino. In December, sea fishermen come from all around the Western Hemisphere to catch yellowtail. During the summertime, there is an abundance of marlins. Find more information on sport fishing at Kino Bay Bait and Tackle at the end of Kino Nuevo near the boat ramp. Owners David and Genia Torres are expert anglers, and speak perfect English. Visit them at www.freewebs.com/kinobayelpescador.