Guaymas Overview

Nobody is quite sure what “Guaymas” means—the two most popular suggestions are “to shoot arrows at the head” and “tree toad.” One thing is for certain: the Heroic Port Town of San José de Laguna de San José de Guaymas (pop. 134,000), birthplace of three Mexican presidents, has long been in the thick of both conflict and celebration. Since its founding by Jesuit missionaries in the 18th century, Guaymas has been invaded by Seri warrior bands, French Imperial troops, northern villistas, and waves of budget travelers in search of a base-camp for visiting the nearby beaches. Guaymas is preparing to become a major power destination within the next few years; the Sonoran government, anticipating this, is constructing a brand new marina on the rocky coast.

Transportation. Gen. José M. Yánez Airport (GYM) offers several flights per day. Aeroméxico (☎222 0123), on Serdán at Calle 16, flies to Mexico City (3 hr., Sa-Su 4:20pm) via La Paz (1hr.); and Phoenix (1hr., Sa-Su 10:55am). (Office open M-F 8:30am-6pm, Sa 9am-2pm.) To reach the airport, catch a “San José” bus along Serdán (10min., every hr., 40 pesos). Buses leave from the Transportes Norte de Sonora station on Cuerpo de Bomberos (Calle 14) every 45min. for: Guadalajara (20hr., 740 pesos); Hermosillo (1hr., 86 pesos); Los Mochis (5hr., 199 pesos); Mazatlán (12hr., 520 pesos); Mexicali (12hr. 453 pesos); Nogales (6hr., 226 pesos); Tepic (18hr., 740 pesos); Tijuana (13hr., 740 pesos). To get to the main street Serdán, turn right as you exit the bus station. Across the street, Transportes Baldomero Corral can take you to Álamos (4hr., 4 per day, 126 pesos) or Navojoa (4hr., every hr., 96 pesos).

Ferries leave from a small dock on Serdán, about 2km east of the centro. To get to the dock, take any local bus headed east on Serdán and ask the driver to let you off at the ferry. A blue-and-white “Sematur Transboradores” sign will be on your right. Passenger ferries only go to Santa Rosalía (7hr.; M-Tu, Th and Sa. 8pm; US$55.) Rent cars from Hertz, Calzada García López 625 (☎222 1000. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa-Su 8am-3pm.) or Budget, at Serdán and Calle 4. (☎222 5500; guaymas@rentatur.com. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa-Su 8am-3pm.)

Practical Information. The tourist office is on Av. Serdán between Calle 24 and Calle 25. (☎222 4400. Open daily 9am-6pm, but the booth is only staffed by one person, so hours vary.) After dark, women should avoid walking alone more than two blocks south of Serdán or east of Calle 25. Banamex (☎224 1870), on Serdán at Calle 20, exchanges currency and has 24hr. ATMs (Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm.) Luggage storage is available at the Transportes Norte de Sonora bus terminal. (8hr. 15 pesos, each additional hr. 5 pesos. Open 24hr.) Other services include: emergency ☎066; police: (☎224 0105), on Calle 11 at Av. 9; Red Cross (☎222 5555), on México 15, about 1.5km north of the centro at km 1980; 24hr. B.F. Farmacia (☎222 2400) at Calle 15; Telecomm (☎222 0292) on Av. 10 and Calle 20, next to the post office (open M-Sa 8am-6pm, Su 9am-12:30pm); Internet access at La Biblioteca, on Serdán and Cuerpo de Bomberos (10 pesos per hr.; open daily 9am-10pm); and the post office (☎222 0104), on Av. 10 between Calle 19 and 20. (Open M-F 8am-4pm, Sa 9am-1pm.) Postal Code: 85400.

Accommodations And Food. Guaymas’s heat and humidity create the perfect micro-climate for a proliferation of roaches, fleas, gnats, and other vermin, making otherwise adequate budget hotels somewhat uncomfortable. It may be worth your while to pay for A/C, cleanliness, and frequent fumigation, especially during the summer. If you’re inclined to avoid both infestation and expense, bring a tent and head to the free, publicly owned beaches of San Carlos, just a 10min. bus ride away. Casa de Huéspedes Lupita 2, 125 Calle 15, two blocks south of Serdán. While not the cleanest, these small rooms come with fans, and a purified water dispenser awaits in the office. (☎222 1945. Key deposit 30 pesos. Towel deposit 30 pesos. Singles 140 pesos, with bath 170; doubles with A/C, bath, and cable TV 250 pesos. Cash only.) Hotel San Enrique 5, Av. Serdán between Calle 9 and Calle 10, offers spotless rooms with A/C, cable, and Wi-Fi in the lobby. (☎224 1919. Singles 350 pesos; doubles 400 pesos. AmEx/MC/V.)

Seafood is Guaymas’s specialty. Local favorites include ostiones (oysters) in a garlic and chile sauce and cahuamanta (manta ray steaks)—not to be confused cahuama (sea turtle), which are endangered and illegal to eat. Restaurant Bar Los Barcos 5, on Malecón between Calles 21 and 22, offers the very finest in seafood. Select from 17 different shrimp dishes (100 pesos each) or Mexican surf and turf for 125 pesos. (☎222 7650. Open M-W 11am-10pm, Th-Sa 11am-11pm, Su 11am-1pm. MC/V.) Las 1000 Tortas 2, Serdán 188, between Calles 17 and 18, is not just for torta lovers. Try the great sandwiches for 20 pesos, or a large variety of comida corrida for 30-40 pesos. (Open daily 8am-11pm. Cash only.) Find Los 3 Cochinitos 1, on Serdán at Calle 11, past the straw-and-stick houses. This joint serves cheap tacos and tortas for 9 pesos each. (Open 9am-late. Cash only.) Get fresh produce at the Mercado Municipal, on Calle 20 one block from Serdán, or comida corrida along Serdán. There is also a VH Supermarket on Serdán between Calles 19 and 20. (Open M-Sa 7am-11:30pm and Su 7am-8:30pm.)

Beaches And Nightlife. While Guaymas itself doesn’t have any beaches, some of the most beautiful beaches in Mexico are located just a short bus ride north in San Carlos and Miramar . Buses marked “San Carlos” or “Miramar” leave from the Colmex on Serdán and Calle 16 (10 min., every 15min. 7am-10:30pm, 9 pesos). The beaches in Miramar are nicer but smaller than those in San Carlos. Perlas del Mar de Cortés, (☎221 0136; www.perlas.com.mx), also in Miramar, offers tours of Mexico’s most exotic pearl farm. (Free tours every hr. Open M-F 9am-3pm, Sa 9am-11pm.)

Guaymas’s nightlife revolves around the many bars of the centro. The few clubs with dance floors are crowded with young people on weekends and often stay open until sunrise. Vlue, on Serdán and Calle 13, is a favorite with a packed dance floor. (Sa-Su live music from top norteño bands. Cover 20 pesos. Th-Su 10pm-3am. Cash only.) Chendo’s Nightclub, on Malecón and Calle 23, offers more of a lounge scene, but nights are still long and debaucherous. Look for the sign of a drunken cactus holding a flaming beer. (Pool table. Live music. Beer 20 pesos. Open daily 9pm-3am, but crowds don’t come until 11pm. Cash only.) Cyrus Disco and Video on Serdán at Calle 17, draws a younger student crowd with reggaeton and American hip hop. (☎227 666. Cover 20 pesos, women free F-Su. Beer 20 pesos. Must be age 18-35 to enter. Cash only.)