Hermosillo Overview

Hermosillo (pop. 800,000) is not a typical border town. Businessmen, local families, and intrepid travelers spend their time in “La Ciudad del Sol” chowing on carne asada (grilled beef) and coyotas (traditional brown sugar pastries), shopping in the dusty centro, partying it up with university students, and watching Mexico’s winningest baseball team: Los Naranjeros. Summertime temperatures creep up to 120˚F in this 120 year-old state capital; luckily, hermosillenses have spent the last few years cooling down their city by adding shade trees and water parks, while simultaneously building it up to match their progressive state motto ¡Vamos por Soluciones!

• Flights: Gen. Pesqueira García Airport (HMO; ☎261 0008), 10km west of town on Transversal toward Bahía Kino. From the bus station, take a small red bus (4 pesos) or a taxi (around 70 pesos). Aeroméxico (☎218 0612) goes to Guadalajara (2hr., 4 per day), Mexico City (2hr., 8 per day), and Tijuana (1hr., 2 per day). AeroCalifornia (☎260 2555) goes to La Paz (1hr., 1 per day) or Los Angeles, CA (1hr., 1 per day).
• Buses: 2km east of the centro on Encinas. To get from the station to town, catch a “Centro” bus (every 10min. 5am-8pm, 6 pesos). By taxi, you must pre-pay by purchasing a boleto for your destination. A trip to the centro costs around 70 pesos and takes 10min. To get to the station from the centro, wait for a bus at Elías Calles and Matamoros. Transportes Norte de Sonora (☎217 1522) goes to: Chihuahua (12hr., 540 pesos); Ciudad Juárez (11hr., daily 6:30pm, 530 pesos); Mazatlán (12hr., 464 pesos); Mexico City (31hr., 1127 pesos). Élite (☎213 0610) sends buses every hr. to nearby cities including Caborca (4hr., 46 pesos), Guaymas (2hr., 60 pesos), and Nogales (3hr., 120 pesos).
• Car Rental: Budget, Garmendía 46 (☎214 3033), at Tamaulipas. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa-Su 8am-3pm. Hertz, Blvr. Morales 341 (☎260 1044). Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa-Su 8am-3pm.

Orientation And Practical Information

Hermosillo lies 276km south of the border on Mex. 15, the main highway connecting the western US and central Mexico. Most of the activity in Hermosillo occurs within the centro southeast of the university, the area bordered by Rosales on the west, Juárez on the east, Serdán on the south, and Encinas Johnson on the north. Visitors should take note—Hermosillo summers are scorching. In July and August, temperatures may soar as high as 47ºC (116.6ºF). Let’s Go recommends visitors drink a lot of water. Staying well hydrated is important, even though most buildings in the centro have A/C.

• Tourist Office: (☎217 0060, from the US 800-476-6672; www.sonoraturismo.gob.mx), on the 3rd fl. of Centro de Gobierno on the corner of Cultura and Comonfort. Walk south on Comonfort from the centro over the bridge. The Centro de Gobierno is the large pink building on your left. Open M-F 8am-3pm.
• Consulates: US (☎289 2500, 24hr. 217 2375), Monterrey 141 between Galeana and Rosales. Open M-F 8am-4:30pm.
• Banks: Banks line Encinas and Serdán. Banamex (☎214 7615), on Serdán at Matamoros, has a 24hr. ATM. Open M-F 8:30am-4:30pm, Sa 9am-3:30pm.
• American Express: (☎213 9371), on Rosales at Monterrey inside Hermex Travel. Open M-F 9am-1pm and 3-6pm, Sa 9am-1pm.
• Emergency: ☎080 or 066.
• Police: (☎289 5000), at Juárez and Nuevo León.
• Tourist helpline: ☎800 716 2555 or 800-903-9200.
• Red Cross: (☎065 or 214 0010), on Encinas at 14 de Abril. Open 9am-5pm.
• Pharmacy: Farmacia Kino, Morelia 93 at Guerrero (☎260 2040). Open M-Sa 7am-9pm, Su 7am-8pm.
• Hospital: Hospital General (☎259 2500 or 2501), on Transversal at Reyes.
• Internet Access: CETEC: Computación e ingles, Serdán at Guerrero. Internet 5 pesos per hr. Supplies ethernet cables. Open daily 9am-8pm.
• Post Office: (☎212 0011), on Elías Calles at Rosales. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 9am-1pm. Postal Code: 83000.

Accommodations

In Hermosillo, low prices tend to come at the expense of cleanliness, as the humidity encourages cockroaches to flourish. As with most cities of El Norte, travelers must often pay a little extra for comfort.

• Hotel Washington D.C., Dr. Noriega 68 Pte. (☎213 1183), between Matamoros and Guerrero. The lobby faces the many zapaterías, mueblerías, and heladerías on Guerrero. At night, guests can hear locals carousing in nearby cervecerías. Boasts pristine, tiled rooms with A/C and high-pressure showers. Free coffee, communal refrigerator, and microwave available. Check-out 1pm. Singles 200 pesos; doubles 230 pesos; 20 pesos per additional person. Cash only.
• Hotel Niza, Elías Calles 66 (☎217 2028), between Guerrero and Garmendía. A decent bargain if the Washington is full. Maroon rooms with A/C, bath, comfortable bed, and TV. Restaurant open 7am-9pm. Singles 220 pesos; doubles 280 pesos. Cash only.
• Hotel Royal, Sonora 15 (☎212 0160). Between P. Horacio Soria L. and Juárez, near the Costa Bus Station. Convenient for those just passing through Hermosillo. Rooms with A/C and private bath. Singles 160 pesos; doubles 210 pesos. Cash only.
• Hotel San Andres, Juárez 14 at Oaxaca.(☎217 3099; www.hotelsanandreshermosillo.com). A posh spot in the centro. Rooms have private bath and cable TV. A bargain for large parties. Outdoor pool. Singles and doubles 420 pesos. Matrimonial double 450 pesos. Reservations recommended. MC/V.

Food

Carne asada (grilled meat), the most popular dish in Hermosillo, is easily found in the taco and torta places around Serdán and Guerrero, where taquitos and quesadillas cost around 10 pesos and comida corrida goes for 20-25 pesos. Don’t miss the city’s special dessert: coyotas, or sweet Seri cookies made from flour, raw sugar, molasses, and boiled milk. On weekdays, sample the different recipes hawked along Av. Obregón. A supermarket, Ley Centro, is located on Juárez at Morelia (☎217 3294. Open daily 6:30am-11pm.)

• Tacos “Don” Robert, Morelia at Guerrero, outside of Farmacia Kino. Perhaps the most popular taco stand in the centro, the DR serves up hot combos: feast on 3 tacos and a quesadilla with beans for 32 pesos. Big gulp of soda 8 pesos. Also serves tripas (intestines) cooked in front of your eyes. Open until “Don” Robert gets tired. Cash only.
• Xochimilco, Obregón 51 (☎250 4089 or 4052; restaurantxochimilco.tripod.com). Walk down Rosales; after crossing the highway, turn right. Continue past the long, green school building and turn left. The restaurant is 400m ahead on the right. Locals agree that Xochimilco, specializing in every variety of Sonoran carne asada since 1949, is the place to go for a taste of Hermosillo. If you’ve got a hearty appetite, try the paquete Xochimilco (280 pesos for 2). Wrap up your meal with a hot coyota (20 pesos). Open daily noon-9pm. Reservations recommended on weekends. MC/V.
• El Verde Olivo, Niños Héroes 7 (☎213 2881), at Encinas. Attached to the health-food store Jung, the Green Olive is the perfect retreat for vegetarians. Herbivores relax to ambient American music while enjoying vegetarian versions of Mexican favorites. The all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet (105 pesos) is noteworthy, featuring everything from burritos de hongos (mushroom burritos) to hotcakes and yogurt parfaits. Open M-Sa 7:30am-10pm, Su 9am-5pm. MC/V.
• Restaurante Montecarlo, (☎212 0853), attached to the Hotel Montecarlo on the corner of Juárez and Sonora. Air-conditioned with a free, clean water dispenser. Very little sitting room, so arrive early for the eggs, hotcakes, and coffee. Full breakfast 60 pesos. Hamburgers 40 pesos. Fajitas 60 pesos. Open daily 7am-10pm.

Sights And Entertainment

The Hermosillo municipality has focused on increasing family-friendly activities over the last few years. The brand-new, 100 acre  Parque Recreativo La Sauceda, on Periférico and Blvr. Serna, has an open-air theater, children’s museum, and athletic courts. The park’s Acuafantastico section offers wave pools, a slow river, kiddy pools, and a pirate-themed waterslide. (☎212 0509. Open T-Sa 9am to 7pm.)

Hermosillo’s two architectural wonders grace opposite sides of the tree-lined Plaza Zaragoza, where children and seniors often enjoy quiet evenings with icy drinks. The yellow, gothic towers of the Catedral de Asunción lie on the western side of the plaza, and across is the blue-and-white Palacio del Gobierno. A chapel has stood on the site of the cathedral since 1777, but the current cathedral was only completed in 1908. The main attraction of the Palacio, from which the state of Sonora is governed, is a series of murals commissioned in the 1980s depicting key periods in Sonora’s history. The Museo Regional de Historia is located on Rosales just before Encinas. The first room contains an examination of Sonora’s pre-history, including two perfectly-preserved mummies recovered in Yecora. Downstairs and to the right an exhibit narrates Sonora’s turbulent 19th century, marked by the Mexican-American war and the Porfiriato days before General José María González Hermosillo brought a revolutionary spirit to the area. (Archaeological exhibit open M-Sa 9am-1pm; 19th-century exhibit open M-Sa 9am-2pm. Free.)

The  Centro Ecológico de Sonora is a scholastic treasure-house: spending the day here is the best way to learn about Sonora. Loads of time and perhaps a few limbs have been sacrificed to reel in regional flora, fauna, and fish for the education of Sonorans. In the park you will see mostly native Sonoran species: jaguars, pumas, guacamayas (macaws), gila monsters, condors, and coatis—and an incredible collection of over 340 species of cacti. (Take a Ruta 6 or 11 bus from the Guerrero and Dr. Noriega stop (20min., 6 pesos) and ask to exit by the Centro Ecológico. Walk down Templo Tlacali to the end of the street. ☎250 1225. Open Tu-Su 8am-6pm. 30 pesos, children 4-12 and students 15 pesos.)

Each May, the capital celebrates the wild Fiestas del Pitic, a municipality wide celebration of Hermosillo’s founding. From October to December, the Los Naranjeros de Hermosillo show off their 14-time Pacific League champion prowess at Hector Espino Stadium on Garcia Morales at Solidaridad. (Ticket prices vary; visit www.naranjeros.com.mx.)

Nightlife

The area between the University of Sonora (UniSon) and the centro lights up on the weekends.

• La Tequilera, Suárez 72 (☎217 5337). Formerly El Grito, Hermosillo’s most popular watering hole has a new name and new look. Hermosillenses now come to enjoy both the traditional banda as well as North American Top 40. Pitcher of beer 200 pesos. Cover charge for men 22 pesos; women free. Open Th-Sa 9pm-2pm. Cash only.
• La Biblioteca, on Rosales at Dr. Noriega (☎212 4750.) Many of the college kids shoot pool, watch sports, or surf the Internet. Beer 20 pesos. Tequila shots 30 pesos. Internet access from 15 pesos per hr. Billiards from 25 pesos. Open M-Sa 10am-2am, Su 4pm-2am. Cash only.
• Napy’s, Matamoros 109 (☎213 2870), between Dr. Noriega and Morelia. Offers more of a club scene. After 9pm, food service stops and the speakers hit maximum volume as couples hit the dance floor, and friends cheer them on with pitchers of Tecate. F-Sa live salsa. Cover 50 pesos for men; women free. Open daily 10am-2am. Cash only.
• Club Neo, Juárez 49, between Veracruz and Tamaulipas (☎210 1689) is always bumpin’. On the crazy nights, almost 1,000 students fill-up the club to dance to various Latin and techno. It’s a decent walk from the centro, so taking a taxi back late at night is a good idea. Cover charge 15 pesos. Open Th-Su 9pm-2am. Cash only.