Kilfenora Overview

The village of Kilfenora lies 7km southeast of Lisdoonvarna on R476. Its Burren Centre and several grocers make it an ideal departure point for trekkers and bicyclists heading into the limestone wonderland—that is, if they already have a bike; the nearest bike rental is in Ennistymon. Visitors shouldn’t miss the Kilfenora Cathedral with the high crosses preserved inside. The town also has an excellent but woefully overlooked trad scene. The Burren Centre shows a 12min. video about The Burren and has a walk-through exhibition detailing the region’s history and its unique natural and man-made features. The tea room provides a great smoked salmon sandwich (€5). Maps and books are available for sale (the Ramblers Guide maps, €3.50-4, show the landscape and sites in each area), and the helpful staff gives directions. (☎708 8030. Open daily Mar.-May 10am-5pm, June-Aug. 9:30am-6pm, Sept.-Oct. 10am-5pm. €5.75, students €4, children €3.50.) Church of Ireland services (1st and 3rd Su of the month at 11am) are still held in the nave of the Kilfenora Cathedral, next to the Burren Centre. Kilfenora received official diocesan status in 1152, although a monastery operated on the site of the cathedral for at least 500 years before. Perhaps in conjunction with the town’s efforts to obtain official church recognition, Kilfenoran artists produced at least seven (an unusually high number for one area) carved limestone high crosses in the 12th century. Walk around the Cathedral to the glass-covered remains of the old abbey to view the aviary carvings on the Doorty Cross. The North Cross is in the same room; the West Cross sits 200m west of the church.

In the yellow house across from the Burren Centre, Mary Murphy hosts trad sessions on weekends and set dancing in the adjacent thatched cottage on Thursday and Sunday nights. (☎708 8004. Sandwiches €3-4.50. Seafood chowder €6.50. Kitchen open 10am-9pm.) Kitty Linnane and her céilí band of 1954 put Kilfenora on the musical map. Kitty’s son Gerard runs Linnane’s, affectionately called “Kitty’s Corner,” across from the Burren Centre. Linnane’s still hosts trad sessions in a familial environment and has won various awards for food and music. (☎708 8157. Sessions W, and Sa-Su in summer; kitchen open daily noon-8pm.)