Carran Overview

Get the Burren without the tourists in Carran. A pub, a hostel, and a sometimes 800m wide by 4.5m deep puddle in the midst of a limestone landscape is the sum total of the town. The lake’s dimensions make it Europe’s largest disappearing lake. The well-labeled Burren Way hiking trail intersects Carran, making it a great launchpad into this unique region. Six kilometers northwest of Carran stands the Poulnabrone Portal Dolmen, one of Ireland’s most popular and photogenic rock groups. The dolmen is the most impressive of the over 90 neolithic stone burial sites discovered in the Burren and arguably the best-preserved dolmen in Ireland. About 5000 years ago, over 25 people were put to rest with their pots and jewels under the five-ton capstone, only to be dug up by intrepid archaeologists in 1989. To get there, take R480 South of Ballyvaughan.  The Burren Perfumery turns plant extracts into perfumes, soaps, gels, and salts. Visitors can peer into the distillation room at baskets of strong-smelling plant materials and drying soap cakes or watch the staff wrap and bottle the perfumery’s products in the gift shop. Through photographs and a short video, the perfumery introduces the extraordinary diversity of plant life in the Burren. Owner Sadie Chowen has recently started an all-organic tearoom and developed the gardens with educational signs about each plant. To reach the perfumery, take a left out of Clare’s Rock Hostel driveway, and a right just after Cassidy’s pub; follow the signs from there. (☎708 9102; www.burrenperfumery.com. Man of Aran perfume €36. Open daily Nov.-May 9am-5pm, June-Sept. 9am-7pm.) A single magnificent hostel overlooking the giant lough houses half the town’s population:  Clare’s Rock Hostel , on the main road, has comfortable dorms with bath, tasteful decor, and bikes (€10) for rent. (☎708 9129; www.claresrock.com. Laundry €7. Reception 5-9pm. Open May-Sept.; call for winter openings. Dorms €14; doubles €38.) Across the way, Cassidy’s, or Croide Na Barne , offers gorgeous views over the turlough valley, a crackling fire, casual sessions, a pool table, and goat burgers. (☎708 9109. www.cassidyspub.com. Quarter-pound burger of organically reared goat meat €8.50; sandwiches from €2.70. Open Apr.-Dec. M-Sa noon-9pm, Su noon-6pm.) The village lies a a few kilometers east of R4 (780), off a small road connecting Bellharbor to Killnaboy; to get there, drive (8min.) or hike (1hr.) south from Bellharbor. Alternately, travel due east from the town of Boston. An exhausting bike ride from Kilfenora is also possible.