Sognefjord Overview

The slender fingers of Sognefjord, Europe’s longest fjord and the world’s second longest, reach the foot of the Jotunheimen Mountains. Jostedalsbreen glacier, the largest in mainland Europe, lies just north of the region. The town of Sogndal is a gateway for glacier trips, while Balestrand and Fjærland are more charming villages ideal for sightseeing and exploring the fjord. Due to uncertain road conditions and limited bus routes, overland transportation is often more of a hassle than it’s worth. For an alternative way to explore the area, try Fylkesbaatane boats (☎55 90 70 70; www.fylkesbaatane.no), which leave from Bergen on tours of Sognefjord and the Flåm valley. For tickets and more information, see the Balestand tourist office, which is across from the aquarium and just off the ship landing. (☎57 69 12 55; www.sognefjord.com. Bikes 40kr per hr., 160kr per day. Internet 15kr per 15min. Open from June to mid-Aug. M-Sa 7:30am-6pm; May and mid-Aug. to Sept. M-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 10am-3pm.)

Balestrand. Balestrand (pop. 1400) is known as a community for artists, who first flocked to the area in the 1800s, lured by the scenery. This legacy continues with the town’s many free galleries.   Golden House, in the same building as the tourist office, features a town history museum, Scandinavian art displays, a view out over the fjord, and works by local artists. (☎57 69 14 65. Open May-Sept. daily 10am-11pm. Free.) In front of Balestrand’s docks, Sognefjord Akvarium has a small, very dark exhibit showcasing the rarely seen marine life of the fjords. To reach the hiking trails from the harbor, head uphill to the right, take the second left, and walk along the main road next to the youth hostel for 10min.; turn right on Sygna and follow the signs. Moreld leads 3hr. kayak tours (450kr) and day excursions (950-1050kr) on Sognefjord. It also rent kayaks. (☎40 46 71 00; www.moreld.net. Single kayaks 400kr per day; double 600kr per day.) Walk up the hill past the tourist office, follow the curve right and take the next left to reach   Kringsjå Hotel and Youth Hostel (HI) . (☎57 69 13 03; www.kringsja.no. Breakfast included. Linens 50kr. Open from late June to mid-Aug. Dorms 255kr; singles 600kr; doubles 720kr; triples 750kr. 15% HI discount. MC/V.) Buses run to Bergen (5-6hr., 1-3 per day), Oslo (8.5hr., 3 per day), and Sogndal (1hr., 5 per day). Fylkesbaatane express boats run to Bergen (from May-Sept. 4hr.; M-Sa 2 per day; 455kr, students 228kr), Flåm (2hr.; 1-2 per day; 215kr, students 108kr), and Fjaeland (1hr.; 3-4 per day; 185kr, students 93kr).

Fjærland And Fjærlandsfjord. Fjærlandsfjord branches off Sognefjord in a thin northward line past Balestrand to Fjærland (pop. 300) at the base of Jostedalsbreen glacier. The town’s preserved houses have largely been converted into secondhand bookstores set against stellar scenery.   Norwegian Book Town, a network of 12 secondhand shops, holds over 250,000 volumes and sells novels for as little as 10kr. (☎57 69 22 10; www.bokbyen.no. Open May-Sept. daily 10am-6pm. MC/V.) The Norsk Bremuseum (Glacier Museum), 3km outside town on the only road, is famous throughout Norway for its eccentric geometric architecture and its exhibits. (☎57 69 32 88; www.bre.museum.no. Open June-Aug. daily 9am-7pm; Apr.-May and Sept.-Oct. 10am-4pm. 110kr, students 50kr. AmEx/MC/V.) Fjærland does not offer many winter activities because of inadequate bus transportation, but summer thaws out a dozen well-marked trails. One of the longer hikes runs up Flatbreen (2-3hr.) to the Flatbrehytta self-service cabin. The hike begins 5km northeast from the Norsk Bremuseum at the Østerdalenygard parking lot. (☎57 69 32 29. Limited availability June-Aug. Reserve ahead and bring a sleeping bag.) Ferries run to Balestrand (1hr.; 2 per day; 185kr, student 93kr.). The Glacier Bus provides a guided tour of the area. (2 per day; both glaciers 140kr, 1 glacier 110kr). From behind the Norsk Bremuseum, buses run to Ålesund (5½hr.; 3-5 per day; 349kr, students 277kr); Sogndal (30min.; M-Sa 3-7 per day; 131kr, students 86kr); and Stryn (2½hr., 4 per day, 250kr). There is one nice hotel in the town, but budget travelers would be better advised to go up by the glacier museum. (☎57 69 32 52. Cabins open all year, camping May-Oct. 9am-10pm.) The tourist office is near the harbor. (☎57 69 32 33; www.fjaerland.org. Open May-Sept. daily 10am-6pm.)

Sogndal. East of Balestrand, Sogndal (pop. 6700) is less charming than its neighbors but is an important base of operations for trips to Jostedalsbreen glacier and a transportation hub. Adventure companies like Jostedalen Breførarlag (☎57 68 32 50; www.bfl.no) run easy glacier walks (from 150kr) and offer courses in rock climbing (from 2050kr, not including equipment). Buy tickets at the glacier museum in Jostedalen. Icetroll (☎57 68 32 50; www.icetroll.com) runs kayaking trips on Jostedalsbreen’s glacial lakes, some combined with hiking (from 750kr). Check out other options in the Sognefjord guide or the tourist office. Sogndal Vandrerhjem (HI) , Helgheimsvegen 9, has some of the town’s more affordable rooms in summer. (☎57 62 75 75. Breakfast included. Free laundry and Wi-Fi. Linens 50kr, towels 25kr. Open mid-June to mid-Aug. Reception 9-10am and 5-11pm. Dorms 200kr; singles 280kr; doubles 450-640kr. 15% HI discount.) Buses go to Gaupne (45min.) and Jostedal (2hr.) often. Buses also run from the west end of Gravensteinsgata in the town center to: Balestrand (1hr., 2-3 per day); Bergen (4-5hr.; 3-4 per day; 405kr, students 197kr); Fjærland (30min.; M-Sa 2-5 per day; 131kr, students 86kr); Oslo (7hr., 2-3 per day, 520kr); Stryn via Skei (2hr., 1 per day, 270kr). Fylkesbaatane express boats run to Bergen (4hr.; M-Sa 1 per day; 540kr, students 270kr) and stop at several destinations along Sognefjord. The tourist office, Hovevegen 2, is a couple of blocks up from the bus station. (☎97 60 04 43; www.sognefjord.no. Open from late June to Aug. M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 10am-4pm; from Sept. to late June M-F 9am-4pm.)