Killaloe And Ballina Overview

A wide stone bridge connects spectacular sister towns Killaloe (Kill-a-LOO; Cill Dalua) and Ballina (Ball-leen-AH; Beal an Átha) across the River Shannon as it becomes the base of Lough Derg, 22.5km northeast of Limerick City. Residents celebrate the rich history of King Brian Ború’s old residence, though visitors are more interested in the area’s immense beauty and tranquility, broken only by the occasional purr of powerboats. From the center of the old stone bridge that connects the towns, the horizon is dotted by colorful rowboats, downy ducks, and lush hills as far as the eye can see. Picnic tables by the water make it easy for all to take in the lake breezes and beautiful views.

Transportation And Practical Information. Transportation to either town enables easy access to both. Local buses run between Killaloe and Limerick (45min., M-Sa 4 per day, €8.20), depositing riders 140m outside town. Rent bikes in Limerick at Cycleworld, 25 Roches St. (Bikes €80 per week. Open M-Sa 9am-5pm.) The tourist office, in the former Lock House on the Killaloe side of the medieval bridge, has info on walks in the area, including the popular Lough Derg Way and Clare Way. They also offer the brochure Walks in the Killaloe District (€0.30), which features waymarked trails ranging from 3 to 15 miles. (☎376 866. Open May-Sept. daily 10am-6pm.) The tourist office also houses the Brian Ború Heritage Centre, which celebrates the fact that Ireland’s last high king sat in a highchair here. A 15min. movie and a small exhibit does an excellent job reconciling an ancient story with the context of the modern town and river. (☎376 866. €3.20, students and seniors €2.25, children €1.65, families €7.75. Open daily 10am-5:30pm.) An AIB with an ATM sits on Main St. (☎376 115. Open M 10am-5pm, Tu and Th-F 10am-4pm, W 10:30am-4pm.) Grogan’s Pharmacy is on Main St., in Ballina. (☎376 118. Open M-F 9:30am-6:30pm, Sa 9:30am-6pm.) The library, in the same building as the tourist office, has free Internet access. (☎376 062. Open M-Tu and Th 10am-1:30pm and 2:30-5:30pm, W and F 10am-5:30pm and 6:30-8pm, Sa 10am-2pm.) The launderette is to the left after crossing the bridge into Ballina. (Open M-Tu and Th-Sa 9am-6pm, W 1-6pm. 7kg wash and dry €16.) Farther up the hill is the police (Garda) station. (☎620 540. Open 24hr.) The post office is up the hill on Main St. (☎376 111. Open M-F 9am-12:30pm and 1:30-5:30pm, Sa 9am-12:30pm.)

Accommodations. Killaloe is a manageable daytrip from Limerick, but several nice B&Bs near town make it a pleasant stopover. The stone Derg House B&B has a huge kitchen, where the owners bake goods for the nearby Coffee Pot. Not only does it smell amazing upstairs, but the large rooms also have a grand view of the lake. (☎375 599; www.derghouseclare.com. All rooms with bath. Singles €40; doubles €70.) Looking out on the river, Kincora House , Church St., across from Crotty’s Pub, has chandeliers and dark wood. The owners don’t take themselves too seriously, though—fishing poles stand right next to the family crest. (☎376 149. Singles €40; doubles €70, all with bath. Cash only.)

Food And Pubs. Purchase groceries at SuperValu, up the hill on Abbey St. (☎620 230. Open M-Sa 8:30am-10pm, Su 9am-8pm.) On the Killaloe side of the river, the buzzing Coffee Pot & Deli serves hearty grub on a patio decorated with flower pots and soap ads. (☎376 965. Pub grub €11-15. Open daily 5-9:30pm. MC/V.) Crossing over into Ballina yields several fancier restaurants and hotels. Up from the bridge, Molly’s serves quality pub grub overlooking the lake. Take your pizza (€10-11) or prawns (€9) to the roof for breezes and craic. (☎376 002. Entrees €10-19. Kitchen open M-Sa noon-10pm, Su noon-9pm. F-Su live music during summer. AmEx/MC/V.) On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights, people of all ages and a common fashion sense flock to Molly’s basement to boogie at the only nightclub in town. (Open daily 11pm-2am. Cover €10.)

Sights And Outdoor Activities. At the base of the town on Royal Parade lies St. Flannan’s Cathedral, built around 1200 and still used today. Inside, the ogham stone is inscribed in both Scandinavian runes and ogham script with a prayer for the conversion of the Viking Thorgrim to Christianity. The great acoustics also make it a great place for karaoke. (Requested donation €2.) Across the street is St. Flannan’s well and a Sheela-na-Gig, an ancient sexual carving. These former church grounds are now the AIB garden; ask inside the bank to have a look. Market Sq., at the top of Main St., may have once held the Kincora palace of legendary Irish High King Brian Ború, granddaddy of the O’Brien clan, who ruled here in 1002, but no trace exists today. St. Lua’s Oratory was built on Friars’ Island in the 9th century. When the Shannon hydroelectric scheme required total submersion of the island, the oratory was moved to its present location at the top of Church St. During the first weekend in July, the Féile Brian Ború celebrates Killaloe’s most famous resident with four days of music, watersports, parades, and even a quiz bowl. (Contact John Grimes for more information, ☎086 258 7819.)

Quite the people-magnet, the Lough has drawn the masses to Killaloe and Ballina for centuries. One option for today’s visitor is a relaxing, 1hr. cruise with historical narration on the Spirit of Killaloe, operated daily at 2:30pm and other times by arrangement. For tickets (€10, children €6), call skipper James (☎086 814 0559), or go to Whelan’s, just outside the tourist office. (☎376 159; www.killaloe.ie/thespiritofkillaloe. Open daily 9am-9pm.) Down on the Killaloe side of the bridge, Whelan’s also rents motorboats for fishing or cruising; boats hold four and include life jackets. (☎086 391 9472. 1st hr. €25. Call for fishing rod availability. Open daily 8am-8pm, depending on weather.) A boat and a bit of navigational prowess grant access to the Holy Island (a.k.a. Iniscealtra), which has a round tour and the remains of five churches dating back to the 6th century. For a tour with a local historian, try the Holy Island Boat Trip, which departs from Mountshannon Harbour. (☎921 615. €9, children €5. Call for times; trips based on demand.)