Tasman Peninsula And Port Arthur Overview

The narrow Eaglehawk Neck isthmus connects the Tasman Peninsula to the rest of Tasmania. One of the island’s first attractions, which drew a steady stream of early settlers, was the line of guard dogs stationed at Eaglehawk Neck to alert guards of any escape attempts. Military units once dumped repeat offenders over the peninsula’s steep cliffs into shark-infested waters. The ruins of the convict-built sandstone buildings at   Port Arthur are still Tasmania’s most-popular tourist attraction, drawing 250,000 visitors annually, and for good reason. Less-heralded are the walking tracks and gorgeous views afforded by the Tasman Peninsula’s unique geography. Port Arthur makes an excellent daytrip, especially as budget accommodations are scarce. Be forewarned, however, that bus schedules may force you to spend the night. Luckily, the Historic Ghost Tour and wonderful local walks may make a sleepover a palatable proposition.

Transportation. There is no real Port Arthur town, just businesses and government services affiliated with the historical site. Tassielink (☎1300 300 520) is the only bus company servicing the tourist attraction. Buses depart the depot in Hobart (in summer, M, W, F 10am and M-F 4pm). Only 1hr. to the north, Sorell is the main stop en route to the Suncoast (via the A3).

Practical Information. There’s a helpful tourist office in the Port Arthur Historic Centre with an expensive cafe and restaurant. (☎03 6251 2371. Open daily 8:30am-10pm.) By the Eaglehawk Neck Historic Site on the A9, the Officers’ Mess has a few groceries and takeaways, as well as pricey Internet access. (☎03 6250 3635. Internet $3 per 15min. Open daily 9am-8pm.) In Sorell, the Westpac bank, which has a 24hr. ATM, is at 36 Cole St. at the junction of the A3 and the A9. (Open M-Th 9:30am-4pm, F 9:30am-5pm.) Internet access is available for free at Service Tasmania, 5 Fitzroy St., just down the street from the Sorrell tourist office. (Open M-F 9am-5pm.) There’s a post office at 19 Gordon St., the main drag in Sorell. (☎03 6265 2579. Open M-F 9am-5pm.) Postal Code: 7172.

Accommodations And Camping. Budget accommodation is scarce near Port Arthur. The only true hostel in the area is the tiny, quirky, and environmentally conscious Eaglehawk Neck Backpackers , 94 Old Jetty Rd. Look for signs as you pass Officer’s Mess. The hostel is rustic: there is a compost toilet, as much water as there is rain, and no heat. It also only has four beds, so be sure to book ahead. It is a 20min. drive to Port Arthur. If you choose to camp, you will be sharing your tent site with sheep. (☎03 6250 3248. Key deposit $10. Dorms $20. Tent sites $8 per person.) The Port Arthur Garden Point Caravan Park is left off the A9, 1km before the historic site; it is convenient but basic. (☎03 6250 2340. Extremely basic dorms $18; sites for two $18, powered $20.)

Sights And Tours. The penitentiary, hospital, and church associated with the   Port Arthur Historic Site are vivid reminders of Australia’s convict heritage. From 1830 and 1877, over 12,000 male convicts were transferred to cold, desolate Port Arthur, many sentenced to years of hauling timber and breaking rocks. These weren’t your average baddies; they were repeat offenders, men who had committed crimes in Australia, where they were already serving a transport sentence for crimes committed in Britain. That said, Port Arthur was not a colony of murderers: 5% of the convicts were there for being “inveterate drunkards.” The complex is large and can be explored over two days, although it needs at least 3hr. to do it justice. When you buy your ticket at the tourist office, you will be booked onto the next available walking tour and harbor cruise. The museum is in the basement of the tourist office building. The rest of the complex is best explored simply by wandering around. Don’t miss the Separate Prison, reserved for the worst of Port Arthur’s convicts, where you can experience the punishment cell and understand firsthand why solitary confinement drives men to madness. The excellent museum brings this turbulent story to life by having each visitor pick a convict and follow his history. Don’t miss the opportunity to try on leg irons and see how hard the labor really was. The walking tours (40min.; 9:30am-4:30pm every hr. on the ½-hr.) of the grounds and the free boat tours (11, 11:40am, 1, 1:40, 3, 3:40pm) provide further insight into convict life. A 20min. harbor cruise past the Isle of the Dead, the colony’s cemetery, and Point Puer, the convict boys’ colony, is included in the price of admission; book at the visitor complex. Cruises that actually land on the Isle of the Dead (6 tours daily) cost an extra $10 (children $6.50). Tours of Point Puer are 2hr., with 3 tours daily, also $10/6.50. The popular Historic Ghost Tour (1hr.) runs nightly, delighting tourists with spooky stories, shadows, and history. (Bookings required. 9 and 9:30pm; earlier during daylight savings time. $17, children $10.) Tickets can be purchased from local accommodations or the tourist office. (☎1800 659 101; www.portarthur.org.au. Open daily 8:30am-dusk, though most tours end and some buildings close at 5pm; others stay open until 7pm. 2-day admission $25, concessions $20, children $11.)