Small, tranquil canals detailed with footbridges and gondola-like moliceiros (curved boats) wind through the historic heart of Aveiro (pop. 80,000), the “Venice of Portugal.” The Ria de Aveiro, a network of canals, industrial ports and salt pans that covers 65 sq. km, surrounds the city, but Aveiro has access to the sea at only one point: Barra. Many come to Aveiro to delight in its classic architecture, delicious pastries, and the Museu de Aveiro, the convent where the canonized princess Santa Joana once lived. Visited primarily by European tourists, Aveiro is still a hidden treasure to the rest of the world.
The heart of Aveiro is split by the Canal Central and its parallel street, Avenida Dr. Lourenço Peixinho, which runs straight from the train station to Praça Humberto Delgado, a big rotary fed by eight different streets. The tourist office is next to this intersection, off to the right from the train station. The fishermen’s quarter, Beira Mar, is behind the tourist office, between the canal and the river; its central square, Praça do Peixe, is surrounded by restaurants. The residential district, where Aveiro’s monuments lie, is on the other side of the Canal Central. From Pr. Humberto Delgado, Rua Coimbra runs past Praça de República and Praça Marquês de Pombal before intersecting the large Rua Miguel de Bombarda, which leads to the museum and the youth hostel.
Inexpensive pensões line the streets of the old town, north of Pr. Humberto Delgado, and on the side of the canal with the tourist office; look for signs for “ quartos” or “ dormidas.” Prices fall in winter. The youth hostal is the best budget option, a 15-20min. walk from the tourist office on R. das Pombas.
Aveiro is famous for its ovos moles (sweetened egg yolk wrapped in paper-thin casings), which are traditionally packed into small decorative wooden barrels. For something a little more substantial, check out the seafood restaurants which circle the fish market off Pr. do Peixe (Fish Square) in the old town, a few blocks behind the tourist office. Supermercado Pingo Doce, R. Batalhão de Caçadores, 10, is across the canal from the tourist office, inside the mall (☎234 38 60 42. Open daily 9am-10pm.)
The old town’s main attraction is the Museu de Aveiro, Av. Sta. Joana Princesa. The museum, housed in the former Mosteiro de Jesus, honors the devout princess who retreated to the monastery in 1472 against her father’s will. In the Sala do Túmulo de Santa Joana, azulejo panels depict the story of her life, and beneath the magnificent gilded Baroque ceiling lies one of the most famous works of art in Portugal—Santa Joana’s Renaissance tomb, supported by the heads of four angels. Renovations expected to finish in December 2008. (☎234 42 32 97; www.ipmuseus.pt. Open Tu-Su 10am-1pm and 2-5:30pm. €3, students and seniors €1.50, under 14 free. Su before 2pm free.) Another popular attraction is the 16th-century Igreja da Misericórdia in Pr. República, across the canal and a block uphill from the tourist office. Striking blue azulejos cover much of the wall space. (☎234 42 67 32. Open M-F 9am-5:30pm.) Take advantage of the BUGA free bike rentals in front of the shopping mall, and follow the canal to Aveiro’s salt pans. You’ll eventually be biking with water on both sides, and occasionally salt accumulates forming a miniature white desert. The salt pans were a source of wealth for the city until the 16th century, when storms raised the sand bars and blocked off access to the sea for nearly 200 years.
The beach towns near Aveiro boast beautiful sand dunes. Barra and Costa Nova can be reached by bus from the central canal or train station stops (20min., M-F 21 per day 7:05am-12:40am, €1.60). Distant beaches, like the pine-scented natural reserve at the Dunas de São Jacinto (10km), are accessible by ferry (see Ferries, ). Other popular beaches are located in Ovar, accessible by train (every 20-30 min, €1.80).
At night, head to Beira Mar, where the bars around Praça do Peixe overflow with people. From the praça, follow the small canal to the Canal de S. Roque, which runs parallel to the lagoon and is lined with great places to bar hop. For live Latin music, head to the always popular Azúcar&Salsa, Cais de São Roque, 82, down the canal, just after the small white bridge. Wednesdays are salsa nights. (☎234 42 21 11. Open Tu-Su until 2am.) For dancing, check out Club 8, Cais do Paraíso, 19. From the tourist office, cross Pr. Humberto Delgado and go right along the canal. Where the canal splits, take the bridge over the left arm of the canal and go left. (☎917 75 58 61. Open Th-Sa midnight-6am.)
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For 52 years, we have published the world’s favorite budget travel guides, written entirely by students and updated every year. With pen and notebook in hand and a few changes of underwear stuffed in our backpacks, we spend months roaming the globe in search of travel bargains.
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