Braşov Overview

Braşov (pop. 284,000) is a picturesque town with a lively German heritage. It serves as an ideal departure point for mountain trips. A telecabina goes up Muntele Tâmpa (behind a giant Hollywood-esque sign that reads “BRAŞOV.”); to reach it from Piaţa Sfatului, the main square, walk down Apollonia Hirscher, make a left on Str. Castelui, take a right on Suisul Castelui, and climb the stairs to the beige building on the right. (Cable car runs M noon-5:45pm, Tu-F 9:30am-6pm, Sa-Su 9:30am-7pm. L6, round-trip L10. Cash only.) Alternatively, follow the red triangle markings to hike to the top (1-2hr.). Strada Republicii is the city’s main pedestrian avenue, while beyond the square and along Str. Gh. Bariţiu is Romania’s most celebrated Gothic edifice, the Lutheran T Black Church (Biserica Neagră). Built in 1383, it received its name after being charred by a 1689 fire. (Open M-Sa 10am-5pm. Organ concerts June and Sept. Tu 6pm; July-Aug. Tu, Th, Sa 6pm. L5. Cash only.) In August and September, Pţa. Sfatului hosts the Golden Stag Festival (Cerbul de Aur), which attracts international musicians. The International Chamber Music Festival is in September.

Locals offer private rooms at the train station; expect to pay around L20 per night. Alternatively, try Kismet Dao Villa Hostel , at Str. Democraţiei 2B. From Pţa. Unirii, walk up Str. Balea and turn right onto Str. Democraţiei. This hostel has a big common room, great views of the hills from the balconies, and lots of free perks, like breakfast, Internet, Wi-Fi, one complimentary drink per day, and laundry. (☎0268 51 42 96, www.kismetdao.com. Check-out noon. 6-10 bed dorms L40-45; doubles L130. MC/V; 4% surcharge.) Romantic, candlelit Bella Muzica , downstairs at Str. G. Baritiu 2, has an eclectic Mexican-Romanian menu, as well as free tortilla chips and free shots of pǎlincǎ. (☎0268 47 69 46. English menu. Beer L4-8. Entrees L9-45. Open daily noon-midnight. MC/V.)

Trains run to Bucharest (2-3hr., over 20 per day, L37-42), Cluj-Napoca (5hr., 2 per day, L59-64), and Sibiu (2-3hr., 6 per day, L35). Buy tickets at CFR, B-dul. 15 Noiembrie 43. (☎0268 47 06 96. Open M-F 7am-8pm. Cash only.) From the station, either take bus #4 to Pţa. Sfatului (10min.) and get off in front of Black Church, or take bus #51 to Pţa. Unirii. The tourist office, located inside the museum in Pta. Sfatului, has an English-speaking staff. (☎0268 41 90 78; www.brasovcity.ro. Open daily 9am-5pm.) Get Internet at Non-stop Internet Cafe, G. Baritsiu 8. (☎0268 741 01 85. L2 per hr. Open 24hr.) Postal Code: 500001.

Daytrips From Braşov: Bran Castle . Vlad Ţepeş, the model for the hero-villain of Bram Stoker’s novel Dracula, probably never lived in Bran, the inspiration for his fictional castle, though he may have been a prisoner here. In fact, Stoker, an T Irishman, never even visited Romania. But Dracula’s fictional exploits pale in comparison with Ţepeş’s actual ones: as a local prince of the Wallachia region, he protected the area from the encroaching Turks of the Ottoman Empire, garnering infamy for impaling not only his enemies, but even some of his own people. The ticket to the castle includes a visit to the Bran Village Museum, which recreates a traditional Romanian village. (Open May-Oct M 10am-7pm, Tu-Su 9am-7pm. Nov-Mar M closed, Tu-Su 9am-5pm. L12, students L6. To reach Bran from Braşov, take a taxi or city bus #12 to Autogară 2 (45min., 2 per hr., L3.50). Get off at the souvenir market or at the sign marked “Cabana Bran Castle 500m.”)

Râsnov Fortress. On a windswept hill in Râşnov sits a ruined  fortress topped by an immense wooden crucifix. Much of the castle has been renovated recently, but work continues on the topmost portion, which shows every one of its nearly 800 years. Drop a coin down the spectacularly deep well (146m), dug in 17 years by two Turkish prisoners in exchange for their freedom. The small museum houses a collection of the weapons used to protect the fortress over the ages The fortress is less touristy than Bran, and the 360˚ panoramic view from the top is breathtaking. (☎0268 23 02 55 English-language captions. Open daily 9am-7pm. L10. Cash only. Most buses to Bran stop in Râșnov (25min.), and direct buses to Râșnov depart from the Autogara (4 per hr., L2.50). From the bus stop, follow Str. Republicii past an open-air market. Following the signs for Muzeu Cetate, go right and then left through an arch.)