Buenos Aires San Telmo

Museo Del Traje. This small but entertaining museum hosts rotating exhibits of period clothing from the 17th century to the present. Past exhibits have covered, well, pretty much everything—indigenous clothing, military uniforms, hippie garb, children’s fashion, you name it. Though you can’t try any of it on, you can get your picture taken behind one of the wooden cut-outs that can. (Chile 832. S Independencia. ☎4343 8427. Open M-F and Su 3-7pm. Free.)

Museo Penitenciario. Built in the 18th century, the building that houses this museum once served as a convent and a women’s prison. Though some rooms, including the chapel and the director’s office, have been preserved in their original state, many of the others now contain bland exhibits on the history of the Argentine penal system. More interesting are the two reconstructed cells: a “modern” version, complete with graffiti (featuring an overrepresentation of Homer Simpson), and a 19th-century recreation. Strangely enough, the museum also offers tango classes every Sunday at 5pm. ( Humberto Primo 378. S Independencia. ☎4361 0917. Captions in Spanish. Open W-F 2:30-5:30pm, Su 1-7pm. AR$1.)

Museo De Arte Moderno De Buenos Aires (Mamba) And Museo Del Cine. Housed in a former tobacco factory, this museum displays the works of 20th-century Argentine modernists and hosts a variety of temporary exhibits. The Museo del Cine, which has an important collection of film and objects related to Argentine cinema, is nearby. As of summer 2008, both museums are closed indefinitely for a renovation that will combine them into a single cultural center, the Complejo Polo Sur Cultural. The old Correo Central , originally used as a temporary exhibition space, is now also under renovation, like much of BA. For the time being, there is no space designated for future showing of the museums’ collections. (San Juan 350. S San Juan. ☎4361 1121.)

Museo Histórico Nacional. Located on the western edge of Parque Lezama, a beautiful—if slightly out of place—red and white colonial building houses the large Museo Histórico Nacional. Exhibits move chronologically through Argentine history, paying particular attention to the 19th century and British invasions of 1806 and 1807. Though as of June 2008, most of the museum was closed for renovation, certain pieces remain on display, including many of the collection’s numerous portraits of major national figures, from the conquistadors to the fighters for Argentine independence. (Defensa 1600. S San Juan. ☎4307 1182. Captions in Spanish. Open Tu-Su 11am-7pm. AR$3.)